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The VISES of Garage Journal

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jawstight

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Feb 10, 2025
Messages
155
Anyone recognize this one? Kind of looks like a W? in a circle. Did I ever mention how much I dislike one photo listings?
IMG_1390.jpeg
Thanks in advance, Peter x 2

Looks like there is another letter in that logo in addition to the W in the logo. If @Oregon rock crusher is correct, it could be W V?

Put my vices away, tidied up in preparation for lunch with my other vice, and oh ooh, I've run out of space, the recent 8 additions have filled me up- going to have to start mounting some directly to the wall now -SAM_4814.JPG wall art with a difference :)

Uh, I think your shelves are starting to sag. Small wonder. Nice collection!
 

PeterPeter

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Joined
Apr 30, 2019
Messages
187
Location
Newburyport
WM Vanderman on that vise with the W. I think that is one of the later markings they used.
Good call. I went though the database, but only the W’s. Should have looked a bit further.

More light on the topic; I recognise the vise, but CRS on the name...
Outlaw, you light up my vise (ugh, I hate that song.)

A local auction house that I occasionally buy through has an uncanny ability to take pictures which convey as little information about the things they're selling as humanly possible--especially for to

It’s endemic to FB MP. One would think with the introduction of high resolution digital cameras on phones, folks would take more, clearer images, but nope. But on the bright side, bad photos sometimes hide great tools from untrained eyes.

peterpeter
 

Beerhippie

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Joined
Oct 13, 2023
Messages
10,323
Location
Far NE Oregon
Good call. I went though the database, but only the W’s. Should have looked a bit further.


Outlaw, you light up my vise (ugh, I hate that song.)



It’s endemic to FB MP. One would think with the introduction of high resolution digital cameras on phones, folks would take more, clearer images, but nope. But on the bright side, bad photos sometimes hide great tools from untrained eyes.

peterpeter
Rules of internet sales/auction photography:

Keep the light at your back, so your shadow obscures the subject.

If you can't keep the light at your back, put the subject in front of a well-lit window and backlight it.

Make sure your focus is on something insignificant and irrelevant.

Check your angles to be sure you don't accidentally include any identifying markings on the subject.

Take multiple photos showing as little as possible.

When you can, overexpose.

When you can't overexpose, underexpose.

Post the images as tiny thumbnails.

Put your watermark for your oh so valuable images over the subject to further obscure it.

Include some body parts no one else wants to see. Partial ****** is a bonus.

I'm sure I missed some. Y'all feel free to chip in.
 

RTM

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May 13, 2019
Messages
13,408
Location
SF Bay Area

Oregon rock crusher

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Location
West of Salem
Here are a few pics of Vanderman 'logos' over time, some 'borrowed' from this thread. The one with the single bending port behind the static jaw and 1884 patent date is the earliest I've seen and has the bottom of a W in a circle on the dynamic jaw casting.
 

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neophyte

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Apr 23, 2012
Messages
9,929
Location
Pennsylvannia
Not mine but interesting,

Imagine being the manufacturer of the Fractal vise, and realizing someone came up with a far easier and cheaper way to do the same thing.
I wonder which type of vise will grip better.
 

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Outlawmws

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Aug 9, 2011
Messages
39,471
Location
The Badlands
IMO for sure the the fractal vise. it's a positive grip

The other one is each finger is provided pressure by rubber, unles those compressing fingers are backed by soem sort of balanced pneumatic system. That would work. Bleeding it would e a ***** though.
 

Beerhippie

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Messages
10,323
Location
Far NE Oregon
IMO for sure the the fractal vise. it's a positive grip

The other one is each finger is provided pressure by rubber, unles those compressing fingers are backed by soem sort of balanced pneumatic system. That would work. Bleeding it would e a ***** though.
Did you watch the video? The fingers are backed up by a bunch of small BBs that flow like a liquid, maintaining a constant displacement. Look to me like a pretty secure grip.
 
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RTM

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May 13, 2019
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SF Bay Area
Did you watch the video? The fingers are backed up by a bunch of small BBs that flow like a liquid, maintaining a constant displacement. Look to me like a pretty secure grip.
also looks much easier to home brew than a fractal vise. Just get a bunch of fingers shaped pieces, lock them in a rigid box (actually 2), sorta fill the back end with BBs (probably ball bearings better.) Then build a regular vise type device to compress your boxes, and pull them open again.
 

Oregon rock crusher

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Jun 28, 2016
Messages
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Location
West of Salem
I like the design on that fractal vise...much simpler to build than the traditional style. I picked up this little Athol farmers vise a couple of days ago from an antique shop in Astoria. Not a super bargain but I hadn't seen one of these before so I grabbed it. I kind of like the bottom rail for mounting and the near art deco look of it.

Jaws are 3-5/8 wide and it opens about 4-7/8. Weight is 20# without the mounting hardware. Rear jaw has less tilt back when tight than I would have expected. At first I thought it might be a No. 70 farmers vise but it's probably a No 71. The marking was hard to make out. AMCO on the offside. It just got a quick wire wheeling and a coat of used oil for a finish. Ed.
 

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Beerhippie

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Far NE Oregon
Aside from "1940s", I'm striking out on finding a date for this vise. Most pics I see have a steel plate for the collar, not a cast bronze (feels far too dense for brass) collar, plus the lettering is different.
 

Beerhippie

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Oct 13, 2023
Messages
10,323
Location
Far NE Oregon
I found what might be a date stamp:

54572281620_1351998f0f_o.jpg

Seems like the right range.

Here's the set screw for the friction ball in the spindle:

54571086702_2e3db6f596_o.jpg

This vise definitely belonged to a welder--or, at least, someone who welded. Spatter all over it.

Otherwise, it's been rode hard and put up wet. It's gonna take some significant grinding to restore the profile of the jaws--not just the inserts. Normally, I wouldn't worry about some gouges and stuff, but there's a fair amount of metal missing to the point that the jaws aren't flat across the tops, side-to-side. I'm expecting this one to be a user.

Any idea of original color?
 

Beerhippie

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Oct 13, 2023
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10,323
Location
Far NE Oregon
Damn. Here I was marveling about how much smoother the castings were on this old vise than most.

But:

54571160707_34a526bdb8_o.jpg

Fresh out of 1 hour in the ultrasonic w/180 degree lye solution. The grime did an amazing job of smoothing it out.

I think I'll hit it with a wire wheel on the angle grinder and see just what I have....
 

Beerhippie

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Location
Far NE Oregon
The rest of the parts, fresh out of the bath:

54571241542_c43f080947_o.jpg

Look at that bronze gleam!

The two small objects in the foreground are brass hex nuts some PO ground down to use as bushings for the two front mounting holes. Guess they didn't have the right size bolts? But they also show the contrast in color between the bronze collar and the brass nuts.

The vise has seen a lot of use and a fair amount of abuse, but the slide is still nice. I'll have to get a picture looking at the end of that slide--it's massive.

Now, a hot lye solution in the ultrasonic isn't a great way to preserve paint, but I see a hint of greenish-gray here:

54571241537_fbb6cb3858_o.jpg

I think that's where I stop for tonight.
 
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Beerhippie

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Oct 13, 2023
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Location
Far NE Oregon
Look at that slide!

54572136426_acce053c3c_o.jpg

It's what I think the youngs call "a chonk". It does thin down a bit behind the end part, but to no less than 7/8".

**** on that, Prentiss.

The more I ponder on the 39 on the collar, the more I believe it is a DOM. Bronze would certainly not be used during the war years, as it was considered a "strategic metal".
 

Beerhippie

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Far NE Oregon
No I saw some sort of short clip that looked like rubber, not piston shafts.

Nice find on the Parker Timm! looking forward to seeing it finished and in use.
I think I'll be looking into buying a set of new jaws for it. The existing ones are pretty well trashed, and to reprofile them would require reprofiling the jaw towers to keep that nice Parker look--which would mean I couldn't then just buy new jaws to match.
 

fishwatcher

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Joined
Jan 26, 2023
Messages
761
I’ve made slow but steady progress on this 10-76 Wilton C0. I used Easy Off degreaser and wire wheels on drills today.

Not as much paint nor “patina” came off as I expected.

Heavier on-hand stuff planned this weekend.. mineral spirits, brush cleaner and acetate.

I am thinking either Hammered soft flat iron or Pontiac metallic blue for paint.

IMG_1449.jpeg
 

jawstight

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Joined
Feb 10, 2025
Messages
155
I’ve made slow but steady progress on this 10-76 Wilton C0. I used Easy Off degreaser and wire wheels on drills today.

Not as much paint nor “patina” came off as I expected.

Heavier on-hand stuff planned this weekend.. mineral spirits, brush cleaner and acetate.

I am thinking either Hammered soft flat iron or Pontiac metallic blue for paint.

IMG_1449.jpeg

What is the hammered soft iron? Do you have any pics of that, and the Pontiac metallic blue paints.

Your C0 is awesome
 

jawstight

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Feb 10, 2025
Messages
155
Thanks @fishwatcher. I painted my 350 in a color very close to that. Also a Rustoleum.

edit: @Shiftless posted while I was composing my post. I like the look of that soft iron better than the black I used below. The soft iron looks almost like raw metal!
right3.jpg
I'd sure like to see your vice, or another vise in that blue. I've been using the PPG Charmed Life, which I like pretty well but I'm always open to being closer to their original colors.
leftInside.jpg
 
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