So now I have a nearly clean 4X4 "hole" then only a couple of scraps of post and roots are left in the corners it I can get the last of that out, and the new post fits, I can simply drop/hammer it in. if not, then I need to bust out the concrete...It's a pub table. That is its destiny. Also why it's finished with poly vs. shellac.
Started taking off some parts I want to keep from my '94 Chevy C1500 P.U. before it goes to the recycler. My truck's frame is too far gone from rust and needs a lot of other parts replaced. Steering box mount section is rusted thru both sides. Just too much to fix and no place to work on it. Feels like I'm losing a friend.
That *****, I can understand. I have a 2001 Chevy truck that I bought brand new off the lot. I can’t imagine ever getting rid of it. The shifter at least will give you a visual reminder.I use drywall sanding mesh for stuff like that.
Looks nice. I'll share this. IME, power injection for every 60 LEDs minimum, but if you want real consistent brightness then every 30, if it's going to be real fast moving, every 10 or 15.Spent the afternoon drilling holes and bench testing all the LEDs for the house. Looks like I can get away with only 2 power injections.
Cut a bunch of J-channel
Used the 3d printed template to put holes every 3" in the plastic J-channel.
Then hooked everything up to the power supply.
I have the two wled controllers syncing with each other.
I still need to cut all the extra LEDs out and install the waterproof connectors. The plan is to put connectors on each segment so if a led goes out I can pull the entire segment off the house and fix on the bench.
Time to move up to Linux.
(the wrong ones are still going back as "wrong item received")
I feel ya. How can one get so attached to an object. Weird to me, yet every vehicle I’ve owned has a personality. At least to me they do. I was also sad to see this one go…
Excellent work!Painted the personnel door on the detached garage; waiting for the paint to fully dry before I put it back.
I've hung a temporary door to keep the critters out.
I'm currently injecting every 30->40 LEDs depending on where the start of a J-channel lands. I do have one segment that is the full 50 LED string of pixels. I could possible put another injector in the middle of that channel. Oh. Just thinking, I could swap the order of the last two strips. They're being used to fill a run longer than could be reached with 1 J-channel. If I do that, then I think I'll have the longest stretch be just over 40 LEDs.
The finish had not fully set yet. It would clog any abrasive instantly and permanently.
The BCM on these truck is crazy. It will do things like that. I installed new LED headlights in my Gladiator and tapped into the turn signal circuit to have my halos flash orange when I turned on a signal. One side worked, the other didn't. I had to play around in the settings of the BCM with my AlfaOBD program and finally settled on the factory LED headlight and flasher setting to make it work.OK, this is a what I did in the garage and a question for the techs.
I was helping a friend install the factory MOPAR aux switches in his '23 Jeep Gladiator. It was a huge PITA, but we got them installed and working correctly. The purpose for installing the switches was to run the rock lights and light bar. He had also purchased a set of side marker lights.
His new marker lights are tapped into the factory parking lamp circuit. To access the wiring, you have to unplug the junction inside the left front fender well. This connector also has the wiring for the fender-mounted front parking lights and turn signals. Once unplugged, and subsequently reconnected, for some reason none of the lights on that circuit worked afterwards (right side works fine). We disconnected the battery for about an hour to finish up some other stuff, but once reconnected, the lights on the left front fender still don't work.
For a related back story, I decided to change the front corner markers on my Jeep over the winter to a different style. FYI, the front fender lighting wiring is identical on mine ('22 Wrangler). After I installed my new markers, I had the EXACT SAME issue. I quadruple checked all the wiring, fuses, etc, did a bunch on online research (Jeep forums are almost always no help) and had no clue what happened. I was really puzzled how a super-simple plug-n-play installation could cause this issue, but I ran out of time and had to leave it in my shop overnight. FWIW, the battery was NOT disconnected at any point on mine.
I get up the next day and decided to start on the right side to see what might be different since I had not disturbed anything on the passenger side yet. When I turn on the lights to check out that side, somehow (magically) the driver side now works! W-T-F!? I did nothing to 'fix' it, but since it was now working I didn't really care.
Fast forward to this weekend and this same problem happens on my buddies Jeep. I have NO IDEA what causes this, but I sure as hell would love to know, and any help would be appreciated!
P.S. My buddy lives an hour away and doesn't DD his Jeep so I have no idea if his are also 'magically' working again today.
Isn't a wireproof connector hard to wire?
You'll be fine.
Nice to hear that there are still honorable firms out there.
While waiting for paint to dry and finish to cure, I'm destocking the beer fridge!
The TIPM on those will sense overload or open circuits and shut the circuit down, there are no fuses for these circuits the system relies on sensing power draw and being able to turn it off. That said adding extra lights can be problematic either by overloading the switching transistors and causing early failures or by having them shut the circuit off.OK, this is a what I did in the garage and a question for the techs.
I was helping a friend install the factory MOPAR aux switches in his '23 Jeep Gladiator. It was a huge PITA, but we got them installed and working correctly. The purpose for installing the switches was to run the rock lights and light bar. He had also purchased a set of side marker lights.
His new marker lights are tapped into the factory parking lamp circuit. To access the wiring, you have to unplug the junction inside the left front fender well. This connector also has the wiring for the fender-mounted front parking lights and turn signals. Once unplugged, and subsequently reconnected, for some reason none of the lights on that circuit worked afterwards (right side works fine). We disconnected the battery for about an hour to finish up some other stuff, but once reconnected, the lights on the left front fender still don't work.
For a related back story, I decided to change the front corner markers on my Jeep over the winter to a different style. FYI, the front fender lighting wiring is identical on mine ('22 Wrangler). After I installed my new markers, I had the EXACT SAME issue. I quadruple checked all the wiring, fuses, etc, did a bunch on online research (Jeep forums are almost always no help) and had no clue what happened. I was really puzzled how a super-simple plug-n-play installation could cause this issue, but I ran out of time and had to leave it in my shop overnight. FWIW, the battery was NOT disconnected at any point on mine.
I get up the next day and decided to start on the right side to see what might be different since I had not disturbed anything on the passenger side yet. When I turn on the lights to check out that side, somehow (magically) the driver side now works! W-T-F!? I did nothing to 'fix' it, but since it was now working I didn't really care.
Fast forward to this weekend and this same problem happens on my buddies Jeep. I have NO IDEA what causes this, but I sure as hell would love to know, and any help would be appreciated!
P.S. My buddy lives an hour away and doesn't DD his Jeep so I have no idea if his are also 'magically' working again today.
It allows the car to shut off just one light not all of them like a fuse would this is a plus, the stupidly comes in when you include the module in the light itself run 1 power 1 ground and 2 twisted pair network wires and the tail light becomes a $1500(Ford) module with a radar sensor to turn on the little light in the mirror so you know someone is passing you. Then when it gets cracked and water intrusion shorts out the network the truck won't start...The posts on these is more proof of the stupidity of modern vehicle design. just a bunch of "stuff" to go haywire and make it impossible for Joe average to even try to work on them. No added value but greatly added costs.
a computer circuit is less expensive than a ****** fuse? really?
Believe it or not, probably yes. Maybe not just a fuse, but a fuse block? Yep.The posts on these is more proof of the stupidity of modern vehicle design. just a bunch of "stuff" to go haywire and make it impossible for Joe average to even try to work on them. No added value but greatly added costs.
a computer circuit is less expensive than a ****** fuse? really?
I do like the “Hippie slide-hammer”Believe it or not, probably yes.
I had another "fifteen-minute" job planned for today. A while back, I tried to shut off the water to our frost-free hydrant, only to discover that what I thought was the isolation valve for the hydrant shut off the water to the entire facility, but not the hydrant.
Today we had the city come by and shut off the water to the entire property so I could pull the stem of the hydrant and replace the valve **** at the bottom of it.
I got an early start. Getting the "head" of the hydrant off was a matter of heat, impact and a couple of BA pipe wrenches, but not bad, considering it hasn't been apart for over thirty years.
That was the easy part.
The stem, which should "just" pull right on out, didn't.
Time to improvise!
Hippie slide-hammer. Baling twine has nearly no stretch and works very well for this, but... the plumbing down at the bottom of that is 30-plus year old galvanized pipe... maybe beating the hell out of it isn't a great idea.
Plan B:
A hippie-improvised puller. This was much gentler... and didn't work, either.
The bottom end of that hydrant is five feet down, through old riverbed full of rocks and boulders, and I really don't want to have to dig it up, cut and replace pipe ('though I could then install a proper isolation valve) today.
I bought the rebuild kit for the hydrant, so at least I can look at what's down there and see that the "gasket" is a great big rubber stopper.
I rebuilt the head part and repainted it while I had it off. With new parts and the old parts clean and lubed, that meant that I was able to lift the purchase of the over-centering valve handle on the stem to provide more closing force on the big stopper when closed.
Sounds good to me, anyhow.
It works--and I think the fresh paint job really pulls the yard together.
Fifteen minute job done in less than four hours!
Sorry 'bout the crappy cell phone pics. It was raining off and on and I didn't feel like hauling the good camera out there.
I've used that trick more times than I can recall. I probably learned it from someone else, but that would have been back at the dawn of time... or maybe the introduction of plastic baling twine.
