The VISES of Garage Journal

[tool_scrounge]

That's what I thought at first... but it has '014' cast into the side of the nut...



I just reassembled the vise, flipped it over, and worked the screw while watching to see where the play is coming from. Part of it is coming from the nut moving front to back... but there is also play between the front of the dynamic jaw and the c-clip that retains the screw in the jaw...

I think I can fix both issues... if I can get the c-clip out.

I'll try to get both jaw inserts off first, then degrease and derust everything. It's pretty nasty...

-Bear

The Starrett 014 vise is part of their low cost utility vise line. Your vise weights 27 lbs. Their high end 924C 4" machinist vise weighs 67 lbs. I suspect the 014 is not made to the same tolerances at the machinist vises due to the price point. But it is still probably better than a lot of the utility vises out there.

 

[tool_scrounge]

You’re correct about the casting change for the 33C, the new one I have matches your photos for the updated casting. This one is 91 lbs on the scale. Overall it is pretty tight and certainly much better than the HF stuff I’ve used. For the price this Yost 33C is hard to beat. It’s not at the same level as my Wilton 500 bullet vise which I found NOS. But the Wilton is also at another level up for price even when you’re looking for them on the cheap. The Yost at the price is a good candidate to align two of them left and right on bench to clamp larger objects.

For reference, the US made Yost 33C vises weigh in slightly higher at 96 lbs.

 

[tool_scrounge]

Those Yost 33C vises are cheap enough that you might consider buying 2 of them. One for either end of the workbench. Great for clamping long pieces of pipe.

 

[RTM]

What is the accepted method of repairing this? If I had better access, I would attempt to 'bed' it in with JB weld... but working up inside the body, I doubt I could do that without glueing it in permanently.

I’d try pieces of shim stock to improve fit in the dovetail, picking widths to keep it centered. Once tightened the first time, doubt it will go anywhere.

 

[Woods_Wanderer]

Ok, so this vise is an 80X made after 1917! When did they stop making these vises?

My next question is about the jaws. They do sit perfectly flat against one another.


Is this normal for a post vise?

If not how do I fix it? Nothing appears to be twisted or damaged on the vise and it works fantastic. To test my mount it put a piece of 7ga square tube and beat the hell out of it with a 2.5lb hammer in every direction possible!

It's very common for post vises to end up slightly out of alignment like this. Is it actually bent or is there just enough wear to allow the jaws to flop side to side? If it's actually bent, since post vises are forged instead of cast you can just find a local blacksmith to heat it up and tap the bent side back into alignment.

 

[682bear]

I'm expecting to have to crank the TIG welder for assistance... at least for one of the screws.

We'll see how these go... it will help if I can get at least one out so I can see what the screw diameter is before attempting to drill the heads off the stuck ones.

-Bear

With help from my Mac Tools impact driver, I managed to get both screws out of the dynamic jaw insert... but couldn't budge either screw in the fixed jaw. I tried heat, but it didn't help any, so I drilled the heads off the screws...



And removed the jaw insert...



I built the screws up with the TIG welder using ER70 wire... then welded a nut to them... they both came out on the first try.



I also popped the c-clip off the main screw and removed it. All the pieces are now soaking in the degreasing tank.

-Bear

 

[akasrick]

Next little resto is whatever this mini vise is. Can’t find a manufacturer yet. Need to soak in evapo rust then get it apart.

Colton

Just happened to stumble upon this. Click the "Colton" a file may come up. If not I'll take this post down.
PDF file attached

akasrick

 

[JustVicingIt]

Colton

Just happened to stumble upon this. Click the "Colton" a file may come up. If not I'll take this post down.
PDF file attached

akasrick

That's nifty as all hell. Missing some original parts maybe but it'll attach nicely to wherever I place it in the setup with what hardware is there. I think for this one I'm going to heat it up and blue it in oil and keep it naked steel.

 

[SkyPuncher]

Picked up an old Columbian Body Makers' No. 124 1/2 vise the other day. 4 1/2" jaws and around 58 pounds. Which is more than the catalogs list. Came out of a guys wood shop that worked on antique furniture. Pretty good shape but has homemade wood jaws. Not bad for $35 bucks.

 

[SkyPuncher]

Here are ads from 1930, 1931 and 1940. The 124 1/2 is not listed in any of there catalogs from 1950 on up. Just the 224 1/2.

 

[akasrick]

That's nifty as all hell. Missing some original parts maybe but it'll attach nicely to wherever I place it in the setup with what hardware is there. I think for this one I'm going to heat it up and blue it in oil and keep it naked steel.

Looks like this patent is on the vise spreadsheet already. It is nifty.

akasrick

 

[four.cycle]

RE: Colton patent jeweler's vise (patent 320224)
There's a guy in Bremerton trying to sell one of those right now, but he wants a pretty penny for it:

JEWELERS VISE VINTAGE SMALL VISE EXCELLENT CONDITION - tools - by owner - sale - craigslist

This vise is hard to describe, it has some markings on it but they are hard to read and anything I put down may be open for question. See the photos attached and make your own determination: PAT...

seattle.craigslist.org

 

[JustVicingIt]

I'll take the $15 I paid any day of the week lol

 

[Outlawmws]

The guy in Bremerton knows nothing about the vise, but what he wants for it!

Also claims it's perfect, but the jaws have damage...

 

[Beerhippie]

Picked up an old Columbian Body Makers' No. 124 1/2 vise the other day. 4 1/2" jaws and around 58 pounds. Which is more than the catalogs list. Came out of a guys wood shop that worked on antique furniture. Pretty good shape but has homemade wood jaws. Not bad for $35 bucks.

Wow! A vise that appears to have never been used as a boat anchor!

 

[PeterPeter]

Not much to look at, but this Columbian 604 1/2 caught my eye today. Guessing it’s early, as the model # is cast in, rather than stamped on. I don’t know much about Columbian, so looked it up in the database, only to find this one is entered, but no pic provided



Not a welder, so I decided to pass.
Peter x Peter = PeterPeter

 

[fishwatcher]

Today I received new jaws for my Wilton C0. I got them from Nick Carava. He was great to deal with and the jaws are nice. I did put a little polish on them (wire wheel, 3M disc, and polishing cloth) to give them a bit more shine.. but that didn’t take long.

My old ones were worn, polished up so they looked nice, and even machined flat at the top, but the teeth weren’t even any more, and they were quite flattened, esp in the middle.

Here’s how I got it.. 4 months ago.

 

[1Bad55Chevy]

It's very common for post vises to end up slightly out of alignment like this. Is it actually bent or is there just enough wear to allow the jaws to flop side to side? If it's actually bent, since post vises are forged instead of cast you can just find a local blacksmith to heat it up and tap the bent side back into alignment.

No everything is good and tight with nothing bent. I was most worried about how the jaw faces are not meeting up flush. Currently just the middle of the jaws touch. I was thinking about using a flat file to smooth it out but I am not sure. I don't have access to a milling machine so thats out of the question.

 

[BTL-A4]

Columbian 4500. Might also be a Columbian-Wilton 4500. Reversible jaws so it opens really wide. I made new jaws. The old ones are fine, I just like aluminum ones as they are softer and I work with lots of aluminum. Had to replace the screws on the jaws and it appears one set had been rethreaded bigger. I also had to get new carriage bolts for the locks for the rotating base. They are metric, so I had to buy 10 (I needed 2) at McMaster-Carr, since the hardwares stores near me did not have ones big enough. It was "painted" (sloppy brush job) gray when I got it. I repainted it this color because I liked it and I saw a similar vise that was a similar color. I machined the base flat as well.

 

[CRSINMICH]

BTL: This is from a 1993 Columbian Vise (Warren Tool Group) catalog.

 

[Beerhippie]

I can see that you remove the dynamic jaw and insert it from the backside for the wide opening, but how is the nut anchored to give equal strength in both directions?

 

[Outlawmws]

I can see that you remove the dynamic jaw and insert it from the backside for the wide opening, but how is the nut anchored to give equal strength in both directions?

I was wondering the same thing!

 

[bulletpruf]

So, I have a Wilton drill press vise that came with a Grizzly drill press; purchased off FB MP from a guy who had never used the DP or the vise.

The problem is one of the lead screws for the vise is tweaked, so it's quite difficult to move it back and forth. I've tried lube but that really didn't make a difference. I have also tried to locate a replacement screw, but no luck there.

I could disassemble the vise and attempt to straighten the screw; I suspect I could get it closer to being straight. Any thoughts on how to do this?

Thanks

Scott







Maybe use something like this https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-shop-press-brake-attachment-70952.html - with some wood to cushion it? I have one of those set up on my press.


Thanks

 

[682bear]

Wifey is going to quit taking me yard-sailing...





Wilton 1750... 5 inch jaws... dated 4-87.

One cracked jaw insert and a little rust... otherwise it's in very good condition.

-Bear

 

[Outlawmws]

I could disassemble the vise and attempt to straighten the screw; I suspect I could get it closer to being straight. Any thoughts on how to do this?

Depending on the source of the bend and how acute, I have done them in situ (bow) or remove and support and press.

These screws are not hard to straighten ans often a bigger vise will work. Ideal is a press.

If you need supports, drill some wood the size of the screw and cut that in half so you have 2 saddles, use something (more wood?) to cushion the pressing action. You want the screw to (un)bend, not the threads...

 

[bulletpruf]

Depending on the source of the bend and how acute, I have done them in situ (bow) or remove and support and press.

These screws are not hard to straighten ans often a bigger vise will work. Ideal is a press.

If you need supports, drill some wood the size of the screw and cut that in half so you have 2 saddles, use something (more wood?) to cushion the pressing action. You want the screw to (un)bend, not the threads...

Thanks, Mr. Outlaw. Appreciate the input.

 

[Beerhippie]

@bulletpruf : How about just removing the screw and replacing it? Acme threads or square?

 

[bulletpruf]

@bulletpruf : How about just removing the screw and replacing it? Acme threads or square?

Acme. I tried to find the part, but it's not available. At least not that I can find. EDIT - ok, so you're saying that I just need to find some Acme thread stock and replace it, right? I think it would need to be machined.

 

[TheRealZeus]

Part no. Guide for that press vise.

 

[bulletpruf]

Part no. Guide for that press vise.

Yep, found that a few weeks ago. No luck finding parts anywhere, even on Wilton's site.

Thanks

 

[TheRealZeus]

Yep, found that a few weeks ago. No luck finding parts anywhere, even on Wilton's site.

Thanks

*online think I only see “-02,” & “-03”
*-02 just did not have a pic.

 

[bulletpruf]

*online think I only see “-02,” & “-03”
*-02 just did not have a pic.

Ok, I didn't see that any of these had the "add to cart" button, but there it is. Having said that, I'm pretty sure the one I need is on the bottom and that appears to be a different part number and configuration. It's at my shop, so I'll have to check later today or tomorrow.

Thanks!

 

[BTL-A4]

I can see that you remove the dynamic jaw and insert it from the backside for the wide opening, but how is the nut anchored to give equal strength in both directions?

I was wondering the same thing!

If you're referring to the nut inside the body, it's bolted to the body. It's farther back from the rear, so that might help with the farther stick-out.

 

[akasrick]

This Old House. A Record goes on a road trip in North Carolina.




akasrick

 

[Patrickm82]

Wifey is going to quit taking me yard-sailing...





Wilton 1750... 5 inch jaws... dated 4-87.

One cracked jaw insert and a little rust... otherwise it's in very good condition.

-Bear

I just grabbed one of them myself for $25 bucks at a yard sale. Mine also had one busted jaw. Here is mine in the process of refurbing it. I’m going with some aluminum jaws and got a new decal. I kinda wish I went with the red one it looks good on yours. The little bits are in the ultrasonic getting cleaned. Mine is dated 4/79.

 

[682bear]

I just grabbed one of them myself for $25 bucks at a yard sale. Mine also had one busted jaw. Here is mine in the process of refurbing it. I’m going with some aluminum jaws and got a new decal. I kinda wish I went with the red one it looks good on yours. The little bits are in the ultrasonic getting cleaned. Mine is dated 4/79.

Very nice!

-Bear

 

[bulletpruf]

So, I have a Wilton drill press vise that came with a Grizzly drill press; purchased off FB MP from a guy who had never used the DP or the vise.

The problem is one of the lead screws for the vise is tweaked, so it's quite difficult to move it back and forth. I've tried lube but that really didn't make a difference. I have also tried to locate a replacement screw, but no luck there.

I could disassemble the vise and attempt to straighten the screw; I suspect I could get it closer to being straight. Any thoughts on how to do this?

Thanks

Scott







Maybe use something like this https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-shop-press-brake-attachment-70952.html - with some wood to cushion it? I have one of those set up on my press.


Thanks

Got it disassembled and fixed today. I just marked where the bend was with a white paint marker, put some copper jaw protectors on my vise jaws and bent it back to almost straight. Not perfect, but good enough for guvment work, and I can only feel the wobble at the end of the travel.

 

[Tom Graham]

Would a screw/spindle that protrudes a full 1-1/8” to 1-1/4” beyond the end of the slide necessarily indicate that the screw has been replaced?

I’ve just picked up an older, pre-R series Reed 104 (date code 628.) It has the “meatball” style spindle nose, 3-hole base and typical patents (Dec 24 1912 and Aug 11 1914)

I’ve just begun working my way through the 2018 “REED R Series. Post your Reed date stamps” thread and saw it reported that, “On the previous meatball version, when the slide was flush with the back (fully open as intended/designed) the spindle was only half in the nut.” This is quite the opposite issue.

I measure the 104 meatball spindle from this vise as 18” overall from tip of nose or 15” behind the thrust collar. Has anyone else measured the spindle length of your pre-R series Reed 104?

 

[RTM]

Would a screw/spindle that protrudes a full 1-1/8” to 1-1/4” beyond the end of the slide necessarily indicate that the screw has been replaced?

I’ve just picked up an older, pre-R series Reed 104 (date code 628.) It has the “meatball” style spindle nose, 3-hole base and typical patents (Dec 24 1912 and Aug 11 1914)

I’ve just begun working my way through the 2018 “REED R Series. Post your Reed date stamps” thread and saw it reported that, “On the previous meatball version, when the slide was flush with the back (fully open as intended/designed) the spindle was only half in the nut.” This is quite the opposite issue.

An alternate question you can answer yourself is: Is your full open distance correct per the catalogs? Do you get a full 6" with the back of the slide even with the static jaw back end?

Reed Manufacturing Co. : 1928 : Reed Manufacturing Co. : Free Download, Borrow, and Streaming : Internet Archive

4 p., illus., 26.7 cm, trade catalog

archive.org

If you are short, was the slide damaged and docked?

 

[Tom Graham]

An alternate question you can answer yourself is: Is your full open distance correct per the catalogs? Do you get a full 6" with the back of the slide even with the static jaw back end?

If you are short, was the slide damaged and docked?

You are correct. The slide was apparently docked*. I’ll ask a different question: Is it possible that the screw on this Reed 104 originally extended 3/4“ beyond the slide? (Or is it more likely this screw is not original to this vise? Or another alternative?)

If the (pre-docked) tail was originally the same length as this screw, the open would have been at least 6-5/8”, because the open is a full 5-1/2” and the screw is a full 1-1/8” longer than the cropped slide. Or, for a 6” opening, the screw could have extended 5/8” beyond the slide.

*The current open distance is not a full 6”. The opening is only 5-1/2” (with the back of the slide even with the static jaw back end.) Additional evidence that the tail has been docked: Looking very closely at the tail of the slide, the bottom has a 1/4” chip (?), the tail edges of the slide do appear to have a filed chamfer and it shows a 1/4” saw cut on the top.