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Help: Canadian brake cleaner replacement needed due to new regulations.

GophersGarage

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Hi Guys, I have been using brake cleaner at the shop and my last batch is very different.

After some research it turns out its due to new regulations that were put in place near the beginning of the year.

The new version of brake cleaner is way to strong to use. It eats rubbers, paint and has a very strong smell. I can not take a chance using this new stuff in automotive.

I am looking to find out what else I can use? I am thinking maybe some sort of electrical contact cleaner perhaps? At this point not sure what to use.

Ps I am looking for a Non chlorinated version.

I found this video online just now showing the difference between old vs new
 
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GophersGarage

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Thanks for your reply.

I actually use it for many projects from cleaning work bench, cleaning sockets and tools after use, brakes, greasy bolts before attempting to remove, spills on floor, cleaning funnels after use etc.
 

LopezBart

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You may find acetone to be a reasonable substitute; it's the least toxic of the common organic solvents and is readily available. A polyethylene squeeze bottle makes use easier and is readily refillable from a can. It can and will attach some plastics, of course.

1744143122305.png
 

scooby074

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brake clean has always been rough on (some) rubber causing it to swell. Things like o-rings in carbs were particularly susceptible. This isnt a new thing.

Most of the new brake cleans are alcohol based for environmental, and they dont work any better than the old stuff, most work worse.

I still buy chlorinated solvent based (non-flamable) cleaner for some purposes.

For flammable brake clean, I like 3M. Or the actual CRC BrakeKleen brand. I also buy the KleenFlo 313 in the video because its cheap, but not as good as the others.

If you want to get a proper industrial cleaner, thats safe, and dont mind spending a bit, look at Walter's AirForce PL or Slapshot PL . Both are plastic safe. We sell a lot of the non-PL Slapshot and it gets great reviews. Plus its Canadian made!
 
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BillK

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Maryland went to the new style a few years ago. I have been using the Carquest W5090 and I like it better than the old Chlorinated stuff BUT it is pretty strong and you do have to be careful around some plastics and paint. I think it is great for the uses you listed. Not sure if it is available in Canada or not.


You might want to think about an Ultrasonic cleaner too. I find myself using mine more and more for cleaning a handful of grimy tools after taking an engine apart etc. And it does great on dirty nuts and bolts also.

I dont think you want to use electrical cleaner. It would probably work but is VERY expensive compared to brake clean.
 

tool_scrounge

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You may find acetone to be a reasonable substitute; it's the least toxic of the common organic solvents and is readily available. A polyethylene squeeze bottle makes use easier and is readily refillable from a can. It can and will attach some plastics, of course.

1744143122305.png
The stuff I am buying in California is basically acetone :(

I do miss the degreasing power of the previous formulation.
 

jollygreengiant

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Works too well? Usually when they change the regs they take out the part that made it work really well lol.

I wondered if they had changed something recently, a buddy of mine was saying the new brake cleaner he bought wasn't worth a darn.
 

jbltwin1

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I am NOT in Canada but I RARELY get to complain about something working TOO good! The last batch of brake clean I get was accidentally the non chlorine type and it didn't work for %&^it! Went back to the real stuff. The wash station that we had from Safety Klean was water based and on actual brake work, worked pretty well. Don't know what it was but having a wash bin right below the wheel and letting you brush and rinse at the same time was a gawd send.
 

Two Speed

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Have you tried a MAF cleaner or Throttle Body cleaner? Throttle body cleaner usually safe for the coated throttle bodies, MAF cleaner being safe around the electronics.
 

garfunkle24

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Also in Canada and suffering with the same issues. To me it's not that it works "too well". The ones I've had are actually much worse at degreasing but far harsher on paint/rubber/plastic. Includes Penray, KleenFlo and CRC. Haven't found a great alternative yet.

Some posters here don't seem to understand how brake cleaner actually gets used in a working shop or the cost difference between brake cleaner and intake/maf/contact cleaners.
 

firebirdparts

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I don't understand how you guys are getting so oily. Anyway, you'd think oil would be as soluble in mineral spirits as anything, and that smells good, but it's probably not going to dry as fast as whatever is in 2nd place. That's what I would use if you can get it. I'm not in a hurry. I would think acetone and lacquer thinner would be awfully rough on paint and plastics, but I guess that's not my problem.

Legally, acetone is not a VOC, and it's very very non-toxic, so that's a good second choice, and they'll never outlaw it. You can buy a lot of interesting chemicals on amazon or ebay, but it's probably not worth what that would cost.

I never clean anything, honestly, so I spend Zero on this. If I did, I have to admit it wouldn't be brakes, as there is no oil and no grease on my brakes, and I'm not dumb enough to use solvents to remove dust. I've always wondered who named that stuff "brake cleaner" but I don't really care.
 

Pexto

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Legally, acetone is not a VOC, and it's very very non-toxic, so that's a good second choice, and they'll never outlaw it.

It's not correct to say that "acetone is not a VOC." Acetone is and always will be a VOC (Volatile Organic Compound). It happens to be exempted by EPA from being regulated as a VOC for the purposes of outdoor air quality - the term of art is "VOC-exempt.".

Acetone is still regulated for many other purposes - like indoor air quality standards and water quality standards. By the way I've tried to explain this to you before: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/brake-cleaner-in-bulk-and-confusion.521184/post-10297987

And while acetone is less toxic than many VOCs, particularly the chlorinated varieties, it's quite a stretch to say that "it's very very non-toxic."

To throw some data out there, the OSHA PEL for acetone is 1000 ppm. For comparison, that's the same as ethyl alcohol. It's twice the 500 ppm PEL for hexane which is often used in brake cleaners. Another common choice, isopropyl alcohol has a 400 ppm PEL.
 

u2slow

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I find acetone and xylene eats things that brake-clean/degreaser does not.

I'm buying whatever the local discount tool store sells at the moment.
 

u2slow

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The "new" brake clean (i.e. CRC "Brakleen") is just acetone. Check the SDS sheet.
That's gonna ****. I haven't bought any for months.

Edit: checked the SDS on what I have and it's at least 60% naptha. 10-30% acetone. Deliberately vague listing due to proprietary formula...
 
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mikedodge

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This new regulaton essentially made the various aerosol products inline with what the US had but there might still be variations between the two.

I rarely use brake cleaner or anything to clean stuff because most cleaners that worked at all also affect the finish or the wiring plus the grime works great for keeping stuff from corroding.
 
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cosmokenney

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You may find acetone to be a reasonable substitute; it's the least toxic of the common organic solvents and is readily available. A polyethylene squeeze bottle makes use easier and is readily refillable from a can. It can and will attach some plastics, of course.

1744143122305.png
I was going to reply with this including the bottles. They work great. Readily available on amazon.
Also MEC is a good cleaner if you can get it.
 

firebirdparts

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Did you mean to say MEK? If you didn't, that's okay. If you meant to say methylene chloride, I guess everybody knows that's a good cleaner. We've had 100 threads on brake cleaner for that very reason.
 

Hohn

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Diesel Central, Indiana
Hi Guys, I have been using brake cleaner at the shop and my last batch is very different.

After some research it turns out its due to new regulations that were put in place near the beginning of the year.

The new version of brake cleaner is way to strong to use. It eats rubbers, paint and has a very strong smell. I can not take a chance using this new stuff in automotive.

I am looking to find out what else I can use? I am thinking maybe some sort of electrical contact cleaner perhaps? At this point not sure what to use.

Ps I am looking for a Non chlorinated version.

I found this video online just now showing the difference between old vs new

I can't say what's best, but I can tell you this stuff works well and isn't super nasty. Cummins uses this stuff by the case and all our engine teardowns have several cans consumed in cleaning and degreasing parts for inspection:


1745348008876.png
 

duneslider

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Riverton, Utah
I have actually been using a can of contact cleaner in place of brake cleaner, just because I happened to have a can and tried it and it seemed to work fine for what I was doing. I wouldn't say either are the proper cleaner for what I was doing but I was out of isopro and this happened to be on the bench...
 

Pexto

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CRC is still showing mostly TCE for red can brakleen:

1745348249568.png

TCE is the good stuff for cleaning. Bad stuff for health.

Just a quick note, since the nomenclature can be a little confusing:
PCE = perchloroethylene, aka tetrachloroethylene.
TCE = trichloroethylene

Both are pretty good cleaners, and both are neurotoxic. TCE is a known carcinogen, and PCE is a likely carcinogen.
 

Hohn

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Just a quick note, since the nomenclature can be a little confusing:
PCE = perchloroethylene, aka tetrachloroethylene.
TCE = trichloroethylene

Both are pretty good cleaners, and both are neurotoxic. TCE is a known carcinogen, and PCE is a likely carcinogen.
I always called Tetra as TCE, now I know I was mistaken. Thanks!

PCE is common in electronics cleaners, I’ve never found anything as effective for removing solder flux residue.
 

iadr

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Alberta
OK as an Albertan who was educated many years ago in the wiley ways of organic chems- and remembers a bit, I just ran into this. Hard. What a mess our government has made with the regulation...and indirectly, of my garage. I have to go out tomorrow and buy something that works, so I spent a couple hours researching this.

Brake clean used to be: n-heptane and a bit of isopropyl alcohol (Ethanol contains two carbon atoms, methanol has one, and isopropyl has three) and carbon dioxide as a propellent
It was replaced by sprays that contained mainly acetone. That was a disaster. You used 5x as much (See vid in the OP's first post) and it damaged things- plastics.
As far as human effects, subjectively, it stinks.... though (arguably) has less damaging effects.
This was made more inconveniencing by the manufacturers not changing the damn part number. Absurd.

So two things have happened. New 3rd generation products hit the shelves this past fall ('25). By re-introducing "Heptane, branched, cyclic and linear" versus the old "n-heptane" as the main ingredient, some function has been returned.
IMO, its more or less "obfuscation" by the manufacturers, but what the difference is, is ... first, that n-heptane and linear are the same. But now we have mixed in, branched and cyclic. Think of them as slightly less effective versions.
The good stuff, N-heptane has a formation kind of like geese flying.
Cyclic heptane, as the name suggests, is more packed- a common comparison is an old fashioned wood chair- you have carbon atoms at positions of the 4 feet, two prongs up high and another one somewhere central. (to make 7 in total- "Hept" is between Hex- and Oct-)
Branched heptane is somewhere in between: an assortment of asymetical T shapes.

So what I think the manufacturers may be doing is certifying the 3rd generation formulas with a batch of mostly cyclic, which is very subtly least reactive (functional) but also least volatile of the three kinds...allowing it to certify. Then, they "may" let the batches drift back toward having a decent amount of linear/N-type. That's what I am hoping...?

So Kleenflo 313 has a revision: 313R (can is vertical split red and blue, very distinctive) SDS here: https://www.kleenflo.com/msds/313R.pdf
In Gunk, I believe the best is M705R SDS here: https://gunk.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/M705RC_EN.pdf
In ACDelco, the Heptane based one is 19434493 SDS here: https://www.gmparts.com/trade-professionals/safety-data-sheets-ingredient-disclosures and enter 19434493 in the last field of the search screen that opens.
CRC...Well I'm a little confused so far. But, they do have a different chemistry "Parts Cleaner" that is getting good reviews. Seems to work well in this video
It uses as #1 ingredient, methyl acetate, which is closely related to good old ether. Hunter S Thompson was not consulted. https://www.crcindustries.ca/fr/media/msdsen/msds_en-1755528.pdf
There is a CRC formula that has naptha in it. I'm doubtful of that working well.
I'm uneasy using anything clorinated. For two reasons- that horrible PSA that went out using it around welding, and the fact that it can go through gloves and be absorbed. Chlorinated is resistant to burning. But when it is forced to by, say a welding arc, it can do you permanent damage in a single session.
AFIAK this can be said as a PSA- all known non-chlorinated is very flammable. But just burns off clean.

Bottom line, this should be your approach- #1 you do NOT want acetone.
Besides that one to avoid, there are at least 2 other possibilities (naptha and the ether derivative) that are a little doubtful.
And then there's the topic of using various electronic cleaners.
But, really if you are like me, you just want it to go back the way it was. You don't want surprise reactions.

So.. if you are standing in the store and need something - (or, if you are researching what to buy- same system): google the part number and "SDS". Check that your result is, if possible, hosted on the .ca domain of the manufacturer or otherwise clearly noted as in effect for Canada. I'd have thought the part numbers would differ, but have been caught, like you OP, and our friends in the video, where it didn't. If you see Heptane as #1 ingredient you are good to go.
 
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iadr

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Carquest operates only in Eastern Canada - Ontario, Quebec, New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, & Newfoundland.
So, none in the "prairie" (aka great plains) provinces of Alberta, Saskatchewan, Manitoba, or in British Columbia.

SDS indicates k5090 is acetone based but does have "some" heptanes. http://weblink.carquest.com/msds/WES/WES W5090.pdf
(It would appear in the US they don't have to give ballpark percents. In Canada you at least have to give a "range" (eg, "contains 10-30% by volume" of "x" ) But by ingredient order list, acetone comes first. IMO acetone is a waste diluent in this use.)

Does not appear to be available in Canada by internet search, so maybe contains enough heptanes to work. :)
However anything with acetone has disadvantages relating to plastics (and automotive carpet, for example, is a plastic...)

*CRC list a 05090 but that is not an aerosol, so it would appear to be a strange numbering system coincidence?
 

ozyborn

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I still have a dozen or so cans left from my dad's old garage. Had them about 20 years. Just used a bit of one to clean the disc brakes on my truck when I redid the brakes. Seeing the new stuff and how it seems to not clean anything. I hope I never run out.
 

Jazz1

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Mineral spirits are a common cleaner for oil etc however in Canada now $34 CDN gallon…Same price im paying for Lacquer Thinner!!
 

Burt Shaver

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What? Wait, are you saying that we will. I longer be able to get non chlorinated brake and parts cleaner here in Canada? The stuff that makes me sick when I use it, but works great
 

Codyboy

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I still have a dozen or so cans left from my dad's old garage. Had them about 20 years. Just used a bit of one to clean the disc brakes on my truck when I redid the brakes. Seeing the new stuff and how it seems to not clean anything. I hope I never run out.
Lol

A dozen cans and hope you never run out?

Only 2 ways I can see that.
1. Your 95 and won't be around long or
2. You don't do much wrenching.

A dozen cans at most would last me a few months.
Hell just on one job and some miscellaneous cleaning a can can be gone in just a few minutes.
 

badmatt

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America's hat.
I just use acetone mainly. I have a few cans of break clean laying around but If something's that dirty ill just pull it outside and use some super clean and a pressure washer before I even start.
 

2drx4

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Northern BC, Canada
So Kleenflo 313 has a revision: 313R (can is vertical split red and blue, very distinctive) SDS here: https://www.kleenflo.com/msds/313R.pdf
Good to know. I had avoided it because they had a non-flammable version before (or so I recall) that sucked and stank terrible. I'll buy a case of that and see if it works better than the acetone based "new" 313. The old 313 was my go to for ages and I stocked up when T-dumpty announced the rule changes, but I have since run out.
 

Codyboy

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On this subject more or less...
I have seen a video of a mechanic with a metal refillable can that he uses for degreasing parts.

I think it may have a small hand pump to pressurized it so it will squirt.

Anyone have one? I can't remember what video it was or if he said what he fills it with.
 
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