What did you do "IN" your garage today?

[DGersic]

Man I always wanted a pinball machine . Would love to have a Vintage KISS Pinball machine

Hub

I have … too many. For a price, KISS is available. Both the vintage Bally and the newer one from Stern.

 

[DGersic]

The shadowing shown here is why the ring lights are a better solution for DPs and mills in particular - even more so with small bits and accurate centering to marks:

Are you mounting the ring light around the spindle? I think I’d like that. Got one in particular that works?

 

[Outlawmws]

Are you mounting the ring light around the spindle? I think I’d like that. Got one in particular that works?

Still in the planing stage for me too. I believe the microscope version could be adapted. They also make them for mills, but the prices may be higher.

Some rare earth magnets might work for an adapter rim to provide a rail for the Microscope light set screws. It of course depends on each quill assembly as they are different make to make.

 

[DGersic]

Still in the planing stage for me too. I believe the microscope version could be adapted. They also make them for mills, but the prices may be higher.

Some rare earth magnets might work for an adapter rim to provide a rail for the Microscope light set screws. It of course depends on each quill assembly as they are different make to make.

A trip to Amazon produced a couple of options that I think might work.



Possibly combined with a HF big magnet and some modified base to mount it to the drill press. My new to me drill press features a light already, just a standard bulb mounted in a recess behind the spindle. Might adapt that to use as the power source, because it has a nice front mounted light switch next to the switch for the motor.

 

[jblnut]

I setup an 80gal tank as added storage for Big Chooch. Regular ol’ 1/4” inlet as well as a 1/4”, 1/2” and 3/4” outlets.


Not gonna lie I felt pretty clever building a hose reel into the piping. Being able to breathe better should wake Big Chooch up enough that I won’t have to fire up my 185cfm diesel anymore. I hope lol.

 

[Outlawmws]

A trip to Amazon produced a couple of options that I think might work. - Possibly combined with a HF big magnet and some modified base to mount it to the drill press.

I have one of those "selfie" lamps from my old work they sent to all remote employees. I was thinking that is also a possible option as well..

I've used mine as a photo light for helping my camera (that has **** for light sensitivity) for pics I post, far more than when I used it in a zoom session, (I think once?)

It uses a std 1/4' camera mount so lots of options, including a quick release you can add to a tripod, so why not a DP?

 

[TJMA]

I had a bunch of empty cardboard boxes cluttering up the garage. So a few days ago I cut them all down and went to recycling with them.
Guess what? Today i needed one of them.

 

[Outlawmws]

Guess what? Today i needed one of them.

Been there, done that!

I have a "box of boxes" for things that are good for packing odd/small sizes, and that helps, but they are all broken down.

 

[kaymccampbell]

A trip to Amazon produced a couple of options that I think might work.


Possibly combined with a HF big magnet and some modified base to mount it to the drill press. My new to me drill press features a light already, just a standard bulb mounted in a recess behind the spindle. Might adapt that to use as the power source, because it has a nice front mounted light switch next to the switch for the motor.

You could try this, too.

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Angel+ey...aps,310&ref=nb_sb_noss_2&tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Beerhippie]

You could try this, too.

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Angel+ey...s_2&tag=atomicindus08-20&tag=atomicindus08-20

So you can safely operate the DP from up to a quarter mile away?

 

[kaymccampbell]

So you can safely operate the DP from up to a quarter mile away?

They come in lots of diameters, and are low voltage, could be wrapped around the quill, under the headstock. I don't think 16 or 20 LEDs are going to blind you.

 

[Beerhippie]

I had to top up the chiller glycol tank some today. The main circulation pump was starting to **** air--which is destructive to pumps.



I was able to mix about 30 gallons of coolant from what was left in that drum. Drill pump is slow, but beats hell out doing it by hand--and gives me a good excuse to use a tool that rarely sees daylight anymore--a corded gear-drive drill. Want to see what the magic smoke in your battery drill looks like? Try running it under load constantly for a half-hour.

I ordered another 55 gal. drum of propylene glycol to fully top up the tank. I mix the glycol 1:3 with water and add some dye to make finding leaks easy.

Glycol ain't cheap--~$15/gal shipped. But last time we bought it, maybe back in the 'teens, it was ~$30/gal.

 

[Beerhippie]

They come in lots of diameters, and are low voltage, could be wrapped around the quill, under the headstock. I don't think 16 or 20 LEDs are going to blind you.

Ah, I thought you meant the Angel Eyes driving lights, not the daylight driving lights. Hundreds of lumens seemed like overkill for a DP light.

I like Outlaw's suggestion of the ring light, but my press has limited options for mounting stuff near the quill. It has a cast-aluminum head, so magnetic lights don't work too well on that.

Here's what I'm currently using:



I have the mag base on an odd little DP vise that I really don't use.

That light is a little too bright for me, and not dimmable--something I'd definitely look for in a DP light if I were paying attention when I bought it.

 

[Beerhippie]

I got to looking at that picture of my DP light, above^. I thought "That's just ridiculous--you can do better."

So I did:



A piece of 2X2" angle iron, a minute with the chopsaw, a minute with the drill press, a little grinding to ease the edges. The steel of the rim of the table is just thick enough for about one-and-a-half threads of 1/4-20, so I drilled and tapped it. Got to play with some of my favorite tools and it looks--and works--much better. The light is almost entirely out of the way now and securely anchored. Anchor lube and rag are back where I like 'em.

It still isn't dimmable.

Got word today that my rebuilt transaxle (with solid Rhodium bearings, based on the cost) should be here tomorrow evening! I guess I know which shop I'll be working in for the next few evenings and the weekend....

 

[dscheidt]

The shadowing shown here is why the ring lights are a better solution for DPs and mills in particular - even more so with small bits and accurate centering to marks:

A pair of lamps, one on the front left, one on front right go a long way to getting rid of those sorts of shadows. Spindle lights are usually better, but two lights are much easier to set up.

 

[gearhead1960]

Hi, my name is Darra....what's yours? Will you be good to me....keep me well lubed?

 

[Beerhippie]

Found and fixed a problem that's been plaguing me for days now.



I had a water leak somewhere in that mess. It began pretty small back this weekend, then progressed to "there's a lake in the shop". You can see the water stains still. Anyhow, there are too many things in that area that can leak--two pneumatically-activated butterfly valves are behind the post that control the various functions of the hot water system--fresh water feed vs. recirculation, mostly. Those are prone to leakage. There are eight or nine tri-clamps that can leak. The pump has washed seals that can leak. The hose bib is right there. Cold water feed for the heater. Etc, etc.

I tried to find the actual drip. No luck. I wasted tens of minutes kneeling on a piece of cardboard watching for anything leaking. Nope. I ran a dry finger over every possible source of leakage in every mode of operation. Nope.

See that bucket? It catches the condensate from the vent pipe of the atmospheric-pressure hot water tank. The perfectly-good looking plastic bucket had a hairline crack right where the sides meet the bottom--almost invisible under the best of condition.

I cleverly figured that out because the bucket was full. I moved the full bucket and replaced it with the one in the pic. The leak moved with the bucket.

Damn, me genius!

 

[jblnut]

Found and fixed a problem that's been plaguing me for days now.



I had a water leak somewhere in that mess. It began pretty small back this weekend, then progressed to "there's a lake in the shop". You can see the water stains still. Anyhow, there are too many things in that area that can leak--two pneumatically-activated butterfly valves are behind the post that control the various functions of the hot water system--fresh water feed vs. recirculation, mostly. Those are prone to leakage. There are eight or nine tri-clamps that can leak. The pump has washed seals that can leak. The hose bib is right there. Cold water feed for the heater. Etc, etc.

I tried to find the actual drip. No luck. I wasted tens of minutes kneeling on a piece of cardboard watching for anything leaking. Nope. I ran a dry finger over every possible source of leakage in every mode of operation. Nope.

See that bucket? It catches the condensate from the vent pipe of the atmospheric-pressure hot water tank. The perfectly-good looking plastic bucket had a hairline crack right where the sides meet the bottom--almost invisible under the best of condition.

I cleverly figured that out because the bucket was full. I moved the full bucket and replaced it with the one in the pic. The leak moved with the bucket.

Damn, me genius!

Finding the solution to a problem like that always makes me feel great and dumb at the same time !! I remind myself to try to remember the KISS method (keep it simple stupid) but never do. I chase the least likely cause of the issue and work back to the most simple and it’s almost always something simple lol

 

[jblnut]

My sparky called and said he had a few minutes this afternoon for some sparky things as long as I had a few beers in the fridge. I says “yup, you know how to get in and what needs to be done but I won’t be home for a while” he says “be there in 10, I’ll be done when you get back”.

Also sends me a picture of his Super Duty nestled in my warm shop with the text “had to move the tractor and forklift but it fits !!” Ok bud

 

[SMOKEYBEAR]

You could try this, too.

Amazon.com : Angel eye driving lights

There's a YT video where a machinist went over the top with use and design of one on a mill. It has my attention.. his skills and equipment far exceed mine. I'll link it when I find it.

 

[SMOKEYBEAR]

Motor was delivered. Placed it on the table and aligned it to eyeball it, set the pulley on to brainstorm a bit, put the level on it...pretty sure its an easy conversion. The factory vertical adjustment will easily handle the height difference. It should end up sharing the top two bolts, and two counter sunk bolts facing rearwards. The voids do not visually line up with the motor foot print. May have to clearance a smidge off the motor plate to clearance the lower 2 bolts.. but not much if any at all. Zero complaints eyeballing it.

I have a few more pics I'll add later..

 

[kaymccampbell]

Dumped a bunch of stuff in the shop.
Tested the magnetic hold down. It sucked. Needs more magnets.
Modified the magnetic hold down to use more magnets. Printed one. Assembled it. Tested it. That's better. Printed another.
In between things I took down the 10' superstrut over the boiler etc.
Assembled the second hold down. Cadded up a pair of fixed hold downs for the hard to reach part of the burner deck. Started them off.
Measured, drilled and installed an official sliding door track over the 10' off the boiler, etc soffit. And a chunk around the corner, too.
Yes, I hang my coats and hats on the hydronic pipes and flow valves. It makes for cuddly duds when going out to do battle with the dogeater.
I've got CA glue all over my fingertips. Called it.

 

[bmwrd0]

I actually haven't been in the shop much the last few days, but, I have been informed that we have some sort of rodent in the vicinity. The ***** for the house is right next to the shop, and apparently something has been chewing on packaging, and getting into it. So, mouse traps deployed, glue traps are on order, and we will go from there.

But, I have been going through the machinist chest, weeding out duplicates, seeing what I really need two of, and getting other clean out tasks like that done.

I am still not happy with the drum switch decision, not too surprising as I can be wishy-washy when I have time to think and need to make a choice. I am great under pressure, or when making long term logistical plans, but give me a binary choice and time to think on it, and I will take days to come to a conclusion, and then rethink it twice. Anyway, I will probably swap the one off of my mill, as that motor is just a split phase and can be controlled by the switch that I cannot use for the instant revers motor, while the switch on it would be perfect for the lathe and the motor I am going with. I don't really want to give up on the switch I was going to use, but there are some internal buffers that I don't like as I think they would eventually cause a short, but why would they be there if that is the case.... And around I go.

 

[Beerhippie]

The thermo control system I made for the little fermenter the other day had a problem: It didn't work. Or, rather, it did, but backwards. The solenoid valve opened when the current to it was off, not on--in other words, a normally open valve. Now, I've used a few hundred ASCO Red Hat solenoids, and never encountered an NO one before. Fortunately, no big deal (other than being notified of the problem well into beer thirty), as the Johnson 419 controller has both NC and NO contacts on the output relay. Simple job of moving one wire and now it works as intended. As long as no one unplugs the controller, we're fine. If they do, frozen beer. Actually, ice-distilled beer, which we don't have a license to sell.

 

[Beerhippie]

I just decided to check on that controller. It was unplugged.

Fortunately, the tank is empty for now. Put a big warning label on it. Maybe that will work?

 

[kaymccampbell]

The thermo control system I made for the little fermenter the other day had a problem: It didn't work. Or, rather, it did, but backwards. The solenoid valve opened when the current to it was off, not on--in other words, a normally open valve. Now, I've used a few hundred ASCO Red Hat solenoids, and never encountered an NO one before. Fortunately, no big deal (other than being notified of the problem well into beer thirty), as the Johnson 419 controller has both NC and NO contacts on the output relay. Simple job of moving one wire and now it works as intended. As long as no one unplugs the controller, we're fine. If they do, frozen beer. Actually, ice-distilled beer, which we don't have a license to sell.

Is it one of those valves where you flip the diaphragm and coil and it's a NC?

 

[DGersic]

There's a YT video where a machinist went over the top with use and design of one on a mill. It has my attention.. his skills and equipment far exceed mine. I'll link it when I find it.

That is slick.

 

[DGersic]

Maybe that will work?

It won’t.

 

[DGersic]

Finished up Soccer Kings, moved it back.

Moved in Fireball. Currently my only electromechanical game.



Cleaned, waxed, fresh new rubbers, flipper mechs serviced, and it’s ready to rejoin its friends.

 

[vwpieces]

Voided Icon warranty and made them better.

 

[kaymccampbell]

Voided Icon warranty and made them better.

You drilled the head for a push lock. Where did you get the push lock guts?

 

[Beerhippie]

Is it one of those valves where you flip the diaphragm and coil and it's a NC?

I'm not even sure how this would work with an ASCO Red Hat. They only go together one way.

Finished up Soccer Kings, moved it back.

Moved in Fireball. Currently my only electromechanical game.



Cleaned, waxed, fresh new rubbers, flipper mechs serviced, and it’s ready to rejoin its friends.

I thought my control systems were complicated. I see I have some work to do.

 

[rharman]

Finding the solution to a problem like that always makes me feel great and dumb at the same time !! I remind myself to try to remember the KISS method (keep it simple stupid) but never do. I chase the least likely cause of the issue and work back to the most simple and it’s almost always something simple lol

Thank you for the explanation. Before I read the part in parentheses, I was wondering what Gene Simmons and Paul Stanley had to do with this problem.

 

[Beerhippie]

Thank you for the explanation. Before I read the part in parentheses, I was wondering what Gene Simmons and Paul Stanley had to do with this problem.

No engineering, school, then?

Other sciences call it Occam's Razor--basically the same thing. But still, in a complex system, the simple answers just bite you in the ****.

 

[Outlawmws]

Moved in Fireball. Currently my only electromechanical game.

How old is that game? I think that was one of my faves, back 50 years ago...

 

[Demon69]

How about a headtorch? Ive some machining time under my belt but never actually used one on a mill/lathe etc, would imagine they'd work well tho. Always focused where youre looking/doesnt get in the way of the job etc. Cheap enough in pairs, keep one on charge while using the other. The white one comes with a set of lenses for when when your standard glasses dont cut it and can flip out the way when you dont need them.

 

[bugnut]

Fiddled with deer feeder motors, throwers, trash cans and 3d parts. Cold out and warmed the shop to 62. Dog was contented laying on her bed in the shop. She usually doesn't stay inside.

 

[larry4406]

Finished up Soccer Kings, moved it back.

Moved in Fireball. Currently my only electromechanical game.



Cleaned, waxed, fresh new rubbers, flipper mechs serviced, and it’s ready to rejoin its friends.

Nice!

When you are bored, you can come work on my 4 mechanical pinball machines!

 

[niget2002]

Unboxed some new toys.


My current collection isn't very tidy.

 

[aalleexx]

Oil change and fuel filter on the Excursion - No pics

Messed with my drill press. Made what I guess will be an adapter plate. Switch mounted, motor mount as well. It's 3/8 aluminum, over kill for the switch but seems appropriate for the motor mount. The motor has a different bolt pattern, so I'm sure counter sunk fasteners will be required. I may get lucky and the fasteners will align with the void of the original plate, if that's the case I'll flip it around. I found the drawings online, but I'm going to wait to have the motor in hand before I drill holes. I have a few sets of fasteners, I like the carriage bolts, easy to install/ adjust. Pics, no order

That's awesome! I'm going to try that on mine. I have a larger than original motor I want to mount.