2001ZR2
Well-known member
I share this affliction with your former co worker...working it but habits of a lifetime are hard to unlearn.
What did you do "IN" your garage today?
- Thread starter mayhemman
- Start date
Beerhippie
Well-known member
Only two tricks to it: One, lay the whole thing out straight. Two, pick which end you want to lay it out from and start coiling from the other end. FI, I like to plug the cord into an outlet and walk to where I'm working, laying out cord as I go. So I unplug the cord and coil it starting at the tool end, dragging the other end back to me. Dragging the end of the cord as you coil it allows any twists to work out.
I hold the coil in one hand and swing it back and forth as I gather line with the other. It's rhythmic and saves energy that I can use later for hoisting a beer.
A buddy, who's a contractor, "stacks" his cords into a milk crate. Stacking takes as much practice as coiling, but done right, the cords pull right out without tangling. Anchor lines on boats and ships are traditionally stacked into the chain locker. A free and fair feeding anchor line can save the boat and maybe your life.
I grew up sailing, rock climbing and fishing, so maybe this is second nature to me.
Not in the garage, but garage-adjacent.
I had to cut out this section of wall when I noticed water coming in. Now that I'm confident the problem is solved, I'm closing it up.
The piece of wood is temporary. I'm trying to save the corner, so I dug out the old drywall from underneath it, slid the new pieces in under it, and glued it. The wood is a temporary clamp for the glue.
Finished:
evildky
Well-known member
I should be safe, I mostly deal with Japanese sports cars.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
I should be safe, I mostly deal with Japanese sports cars.
That's tiny. I cant think I've ever needed that additional .3" clearance, and hope I never do
It can still bite.
My most used go to ratchet for general use is an SK 1/4" body with a 3/8's drive; The head is .984, it has 60 teeth, and has a 4" swing from center. I go bigger only if I need the extra torque.
This saves wear and tear on ME... heavy tools are just more awkward to handle.
Mind you I grew up with a 12" drive Proto pebble in my hands for almost everything. Most of my "big" use is where I need to break a lug nut hammered on by a gorilla with an impact. out comes the 24" breaker..
Beerhippie
Well-known member
Spent the morning running some control wiring in the brewhouse. I ran the conduit for it yesterday. 1/2", 24', two 90 degree sweeps--should be an easy pull.
It took me over an hour to get a fish line into the damned conduit. I tried everything--fish tape from both ends, vacuum trick with bailing twine, vacuum trick with thread. I made an adapter from 1 1/2" vacuum hose to 1/2" to get maximum suction on the conduit. I removed the filter from the shop vac to get more. I finally cut off the end of the fish tape and bent a new, kind of reverse pear-shaped (obovate) end on it that seemed like it might get past whatever was hanging it up. On the second try, it did. Had the wires pulled, hooked up and sewn up in about twenty minutes.
Then I realized that the twenty-six year-old Vanagon grime patina was wearing off my hands, so I started the fire at Rocky's shop and got some wrenchin' done.
While that nice, shiny and colorful front mount looked awful nice on my bench, I think it fits better there.
Got the transaxle oil filled:
Using the hand pump was considerably less arduous standing up--the bottle is supported on a trans lift--than lying on my back on the ice-cold concrete and dirt. One gallon of nice, new GL5 hypoid-compatible 75-90 wt. oil is in the box.
Came back to the shop for a beer and smoke and heading back over. Maybe get the clutch bled and install the new trans oil temp gauge....
It took me over an hour to get a fish line into the damned conduit. I tried everything--fish tape from both ends, vacuum trick with bailing twine, vacuum trick with thread. I made an adapter from 1 1/2" vacuum hose to 1/2" to get maximum suction on the conduit. I removed the filter from the shop vac to get more. I finally cut off the end of the fish tape and bent a new, kind of reverse pear-shaped (obovate) end on it that seemed like it might get past whatever was hanging it up. On the second try, it did. Had the wires pulled, hooked up and sewn up in about twenty minutes.
Then I realized that the twenty-six year-old Vanagon grime patina was wearing off my hands, so I started the fire at Rocky's shop and got some wrenchin' done.
While that nice, shiny and colorful front mount looked awful nice on my bench, I think it fits better there.
Got the transaxle oil filled:
Using the hand pump was considerably less arduous standing up--the bottle is supported on a trans lift--than lying on my back on the ice-cold concrete and dirt. One gallon of nice, new GL5 hypoid-compatible 75-90 wt. oil is in the box.
Came back to the shop for a beer and smoke and heading back over. Maybe get the clutch bled and install the new trans oil temp gauge....
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Beerhippie
Well-known member
Hand patina successfully renewed. Even after scrubbing with mechanic's handcleaner, every crack in my callouses is now obvious.
New clutch slave cylinder bled. It should be nothing but brand-new DOT4 fluid in the system now (Vanagon has a shared reservoir for brakes and clutch). I ran the new trans through the gears just see what it feels like.
New clutch slave cylinder bled. It should be nothing but brand-new DOT4 fluid in the system now (Vanagon has a shared reservoir for brakes and clutch). I ran the new trans through the gears just see what it feels like.
niget2002
Well-known member
Tuning klipper on the big printer
GrayFlattop
Well-known member
It might be time to go shopping for a new fish tape- or a new leader?
GrayFlattop
Well-known member
Did a little cleaning, organizing and throwing things away. I still have way too much stuff in the garage.
Then I spent time measuring and planning. I think I may have figured out how I’m going to actuate dust collecting blast gates remotely at a palatable cost. Then I ordered some bits and pieces for a prototype.
Then I spent time measuring and planning. I think I may have figured out how I’m going to actuate dust collecting blast gates remotely at a palatable cost. Then I ordered some bits and pieces for a prototype.
M.Brane
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Being a musician/audio engineer I use the over-under method on cords/cabling. It's a requirement if you work in professional sound reinforcement/recording. Not doing so will likely get you fired.
Upstater57
ALLIANCE MEMBER
The old Plomb pebble ratchets are my favorites. I don't get to use the 3/4 much but enjoy the others often. Best backdrag of them all. I agree with the 3/8 drive in the 1/4 body. Good tool as well. I have put a new dual pawl sk head into an old beaver tail body that also worked nicely.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
I''d be wondering what in the conduit was hanging that up? You don't want some razor sharp burr in there!
I've gotten into the habit of using those nifty step drills as the de-burring tool of choice for EMT conduit, one of the steps is perfect and he start of the next step bevels the inside perfectly. Fast too.
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Beerhippie
Well-known member
I deburred everything with a... the only name I know for it is "wiggy". Little j-blade that mounts freely in a handle?
I don't think I did it enough. Obviously, there were still some steps at the couplers.
Beerhippie
Well-known member
This fish tape is probably older than many members here. It's also shorter, as I regularly cut the end off to re-shape it for different applications. And I don't know what a leader for a fish tape is.
Not sure what you mean--not a climbing, sailing nor fishing term. Is this for stacking in a crate, or coiling in hand? Maybe something like Flemishing a line? I'm sure it means something that quickly, easily and snaglessly deploys.
bugnut
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Finished up the 3d deer feeder printing and final test assembly. Waiting on fasteners so I can complete and set aside. 4 feeders 1 mounting system! Cleaned and put away tools, hunted black pla, last roll found. Backed out the tractor and then pushed snow and snow melt out of the shop. Moved the tractor back inside. Opened packages from amzn, dewalt goodies laying on bench-scratching my head as it appears I ordered 3 of the same dewalt thingies....hmmmmm.
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SMOKEYBEAR
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 3, 2016
- Messages
- 456
To cold to be out there, but some how found myself in the shop anyway. I was just going to test two new paint stripping wheels on the drill press..blinked and was sucked into it. The two wheels worked well on the base, not so much on the head unit. I ended up with 60 and 80 grit on an orbital palm sander. Made decently quick work of it. Cleaned up the dust and debris a good bit. Went to wipe the cast iron off with acetone and the remnants of the old top coat wiped right off. Acetone won't touch the factory grey paint (inside the head unit and where the top band goes). I can only guess at one time where the green is, that factory finish was stripped or blasted off. The green is a primer? and is tough as the cast iron itself. I have some more prep to do but I'm not far off from it being ready for primer and paint. I figure some more sanding and wire wheeling, de-grease cleaning and it will be ready for some fresh primer and paint.
De-iced the dually, confirmed two details on the upper coolant pipe and cold side turbo tube for replacements. O-ring failed on the upper coolant pipe and the cold side has two cracks that will soon be a blow out under boost. Both known issues on 2017+ 6.7s. Replacements will be after market, just need to select which brand.
De-iced the dually, confirmed two details on the upper coolant pipe and cold side turbo tube for replacements. O-ring failed on the upper coolant pipe and the cold side has two cracks that will soon be a blow out under boost. Both known issues on 2017+ 6.7s. Replacements will be after market, just need to select which brand.
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DGersic
Well-known member
Each loop is twisted opposite to the previous loop.
Hold end in your left hand. Pull a loop in with your right hand, and twist it away from you as you add it to your left. Pull the next loop in, and twist it toward you as you add it to your left hand. Repeat until the whole cord is coiled.
When dropped on the floor and one end is pulled, it will uncoil without tangling and will lay flat and straight without trying to coul up again. You can see the advantage to this in guitar cables, microphone cables, etc..
bmwrd0
Well-known member
I had been staring at that damn lathe motor for long enough, so it was time to fish or cut bait, as my father would say. I fished. Took the drum switch off my mill, as it would work better with the 3/4hp motor I was originally planning to use, and started hooking everything up last night. The main problem with using the instant reverse was I could not get the wiring I wanted in the gauge I needed. I could only find 16/5 and not 14 gauge, which I need for the amps it will use. 16 would work if I was doing 240V, but I do not have that in my shop, and I don't want to add that into the list of things needing done. So. wired up the switch last night, and will finish up the job today.
dcg9381
Well-known member
Got one of the roll up doors replaced with an insulated panel door and a jackshaft opener, which I should have gone with when built... Now gotta adjust lighting and run more electrical...
GrayFlattop
Well-known member
A fish tape leader is a short section of a very flexible material (picture an old-skool speedometer cable) that attaches to the end of a "standard" 1/8" fish tape:
They also make entire 'fish tapes' out of this material. The Klein one picture is $20 from Bezos. Knock-offs are cheaper. Just search for "fish tape leader tips" on the jungle.
Back to front: 100' standard 1/8 fish tape (green case), 50' flexible tape made of that same leader material pictured above (red case), and a short fiberglass tape that glows in the dark. The one I use the most is the 50' in the red case. it can go through a conduit run with many 90 degree bends (360 degree total is the code limit) with ease.
The fiberglass tape is useful if you are pulling additional conductors through a conduit with other energized conductors. I also have a 100' fiberglass tape in the garage, but that's kinda buried.
Around here, Romex is Verboten, so it's all conduit, all the time.
GrayFlattop
Well-known member
Just use a short section of sealtite and stick 14 gauge wires in it. A big box store will sell short pieces with couplings intended for air conditioning:
jimkinney
Well-known member
What, you didn't pull the engine to get around that problem?
kaymccampbell
Well-known member
In your dreams.
oldman_pottering
Well-known member
Finally got around to tinning the tip of this iron, although I'm not overly happy with it
@Outlawmws I purchased a block of Sal Ammoniac but it didn't seem to have much of an effect, I might not have had the iron as hot as I should of ?
Wiping the iron on the block hardly even left a mark on it, any ideas ?
@Outlawmws I purchased a block of Sal Ammoniac but it didn't seem to have much of an effect, I might not have had the iron as hot as I should of ?
Wiping the iron on the block hardly even left a mark on it, any ideas ?
2001ZR2
Well-known member
Finished verifying my new outlets and breakers in my garage and labeled them so I know which breaker they are on and tracked down the 1/2 Bath and Garage circuit...labeled "Lighting". Nothing so it was the same as the other 4 labeled that way guess in '92 you only had to half *** breaker box labels. Fix them as I work with them.
Beerhippie
Well-known member
Finally got around to tinning the tip of this iron, although I'm not overly happy with it
@Outlawmws I purchased a block of Sal Ammoniac but it didn't seem to have much of an effect, I might not have had the iron as hot as I should of ?
Wiping the iron on the block hardly even left a mark on it, any ideas ?
Sal ammoniac is a flux. You still need to add solder. Hence I recommended tinning paste, which is flux and solder.
But it did clean up the old tinning nicely.
Beerhippie
Well-known member
Nope, it's a conspiracy by electricians to keep the rest of us in the dark. Literally. As long as possible.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Finally got around to tinning the tip of this iron, although I'm not overly happy with it
@Outlawmws I purchased a block of Sal Ammoniac but it didn't seem to have much of an effect, I might not have had the iron as hot as I should of ?
Wiping the iron on the block hardly even left a mark on it, any ideas ?
Melt a puddle of solder on the SA block and rasp the flats of the tip into it. the SA is a "Flux" if you will, for getting the solder deep into the copper.
Over time the block will acquire a dish from use, and the solder is easy to keep in play.
Also I store my SA block in a box I made from sheet lead so it doesn't rust things, if you don't have sheet lead, I'd guess a well sealed plastic box would do.
M.Brane
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Nailed it. It also keeps the cords from getting stressed, and failing. When you have a large investment in cabling, and use it on a daily basis this is important. I have HI-Z cables that are 40+ years old, and still work fine.
Burt Shaver
Well-known member
Wiped down this 2002 MXZ 500F, took some pictures and posted it for sale. Since posting it, I’ve had 3 replies but now I’m not sure I can let it go even though nobody uses it. 
Roger M
Well-known member
The Cougar has been without heat for quite a while now. I replaced the heater core about eight years ago, with an aluminum Chinese part from oreillys. I didn't think much about going with aluminum(vs the original brass/copper core).
Anyhow, the oreillys part only lasted less than a couple of years before it started leaking. I didn't want to deal with another heater core job, so I bypassed it, and drove without heat for a few years(the car only sees a few hundre miles annually in dry warmish weather).
Well, I found some motivation the other day, and tore into the dash. Not really a fun job, but removing the passenger seat helped ease the pain. It went back together without any issues.
I took it out for an on the road yesterday, and the heater works well for a fifty nine year old car. On a sour note, adding new antifreeze to the system somehow trigger the waterpump to start leaking at the shaft. Oh well, timing chain is due for replacement this winter...
Anyhow, the oreillys part only lasted less than a couple of years before it started leaking. I didn't want to deal with another heater core job, so I bypassed it, and drove without heat for a few years(the car only sees a few hundre miles annually in dry warmish weather).
Well, I found some motivation the other day, and tore into the dash. Not really a fun job, but removing the passenger seat helped ease the pain. It went back together without any issues.
I took it out for an on the road yesterday, and the heater works well for a fifty nine year old car. On a sour note, adding new antifreeze to the system somehow trigger the waterpump to start leaking at the shaft. Oh well, timing chain is due for replacement this winter...
kaymccampbell
Well-known member
Unwrapped all my shiny new PETG spools. Loaded PETG in the Ender. Resliced the deck post plinth. Started the printer.
Uncle murph
Well-known member
Replaced starter and battery on Deere 5200.No big deal but would have liked to have waited for a warmer day.
Uncle murph
Well-known member
Cool car.The Cougar has been without heat for quite a while now. I replaced the heater core about eight years ago, with an aluminum Chinese part from oreillys. I didn't think much about going with aluminum(vs the original brass/copper core).
Anyhow, the oreillys part only lasted less than a couple of years before it started leaking. I didn't want to deal with another heater core job, so I bypassed it, and drove without heat for a few years(the car only sees a few hundre miles annually in dry warmish weather).
Well, I found some motivation the other day, and tore into the dash. Not really a fun job, but removing the passenger seat helped ease the pain. It went back together without any issues.
I took it out for an on the road yesterday, and the heater works well for a fifty nine year old car. On a sour note, adding new antifreeze to the system somehow trigger the waterpump to start leaking at the shaft. Oh well, timing chain is due for replacement this winter...
bugnut
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Backed out the kubota and moved a bit f snow. Fired up the Ford 2000 tractor backed it out , thought I had it sorted but it wants to die under load. Adding fuel supply/carb to the never ending task list. Put the tractors back in the shop, done for today.
landrover bodger
Well-known member
made a hammer rack to free up space in my tool box
DGersic
Well-known member
Started the playfield teardown on Time Machine.
I've been sick with this crud going around here lately. Just about the only thing I have gotten accomplished in the last week is trying to keep a fire going for some heat in the garage
bmwrd0
Well-known member
OK, drum switch installed, wired. Motor installed, wired. Tested, runs in both directions like it should.
Now, to get the space for it cleared out and get it moved into position.
Now, to get the space for it cleared out and get it moved into position.