Wrench97
Well-known member
What's that green stuff all over your yard?Yesterday got more sidewalk dug up/reclaimed and some pinetree pruning accomplished. The pine was overdue, and I have been managing it in stages.
What did you do "IN" your garage today?
- Thread starter mayhemman
- Start date
Beelzeboss
Well-known member
I made good progress on my dashboard crash pad (a necessary evil for road registration)
It will get covered in 5mm EVA foam and trimmed in marine vinyl
It will get covered in 5mm EVA foam and trimmed in marine vinyl
Beerhippie
Well-known member
Did something for work today. Not sure just what.
Cut a foot out of the wood rails on the Brick's roof rack so the last section of basket will connect to the first and rest on two crossbars.
Now I think I need to move the whole thing back a foot....
I thought about adding a fifth rack to allow me to make a plywood deck for hanging out on the roof. Priced used Yakima towers for that. Decided I don't need a plywood deck on the roof.
Cut a foot out of the wood rails on the Brick's roof rack so the last section of basket will connect to the first and rest on two crossbars.
Now I think I need to move the whole thing back a foot....
I thought about adding a fifth rack to allow me to make a plywood deck for hanging out on the roof. Priced used Yakima towers for that. Decided I don't need a plywood deck on the roof.
Crazyjake8493
Well-known member
Cut up a free bed frame to use for some future projects. Then I spent an hour cleaning, organizing hardware and parts, and making a new snow edge for the tractor bucket.
micromind
Well-known member
Did something for work today. Not sure just what.
Cut a foot out of the wood rails on the Brick's roof rack so the last section of basket will connect to the first and rest on two crossbars.
Now I think I need to move the whole thing back a foot....
I thought about adding a fifth rack to allow me to make a plywood deck for hanging out on the roof. Priced used Yakima towers for that. Decided I don't need a plywood deck on the roof.
I'd move it back a bit, there'll be some serious uplift from the windshield on the front of it where it is now.
Plus, I think it'd look better if it was more centered too.
kaymccampbell
Well-known member
Attended a zoom meeting for the NWA board. I think only 2 to go.
Beerhippie
Well-known member
It would also work better with the side ladder--which I'm realizing has to come off for anything other than mild roads driving. Easy enough to do, but putting it back on requires lying on the ground to get the locking pin in.
LeonardY
Well-known member
Cut a hand opening in the charger drawer.
Found a six outlet power strip. It fits perfectly. I'll have swap plugs for some of the chargers. It's no big deal since some of them are for just yard tools that I inherited from dad.
Did some wire management. I think I'll call this good enough.
This is how far it sticks out when open.
I can walk by easily but it's obvious.
Found a six outlet power strip. It fits perfectly. I'll have swap plugs for some of the chargers. It's no big deal since some of them are for just yard tools that I inherited from dad.
Did some wire management. I think I'll call this good enough.
This is how far it sticks out when open.
I can walk by easily but it's obvious.
welder4956
Well-known member
Toyed with making a wall mounted holder for the grease gun from a piece of 2-1/2" exhaust pipe and scrap piece of metal lawn edging. Got the bottom piece cut and welded the exhaust pipe on. Need to make a top piece for the gun body and tube for the hose to drip into. Then got sidetracked on cutting, routing and staining a couple of pieces of 1 x 3 for a hat rack and key rack for a relative.
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TheRealZeus
Well-known member
Standard creeping biomass of crabgrass.ObnoxiousFumes
Well-known member
All whilst bravely fighting off the countless gremlins squabbling underfoot, yet to no avail.
niget2002
Well-known member
Been spending lots of time on the laser upgrades.
Air solenoid is working.
Z-axis is working
Touch-probe for the Z-axis is working
The 24v6a power supply brick I was hoping to use lies and would drop below 10v under heavy load causing the solenoid to kick on/off. The 12v30a power supply is running the entire build much better.
I was able to do some test burns this evening. The steppers were configured wrong, so I had to fix that.
The SD Card reader on the board isn't working, so I still need to fix that.
Air solenoid is working.
Z-axis is working
Touch-probe for the Z-axis is working
The 24v6a power supply brick I was hoping to use lies and would drop below 10v under heavy load causing the solenoid to kick on/off. The 12v30a power supply is running the entire build much better.
I was able to do some test burns this evening. The steppers were configured wrong, so I had to fix that.
The SD Card reader on the board isn't working, so I still need to fix that.
rd65
Well-known member
For my yard, the answer would be moss
kaymccampbell
Well-known member
This time of year? My dog ate something inappropriate
LeonardY
Well-known member
Finished up my loose wire management. A few p-clamps to attach the power strip cord.
Pushed the go button on the resin printer.
Pushed the go button on the resin printer.
Motorman55
Well-known member
Assembled one of the two retro metal outdoor 'clamshell' design chairs the wife bought on-line from Walmart. She wanted to see how it looks before she puts them out in the garden. It went together fairly easily and once together its pretty strong. Note: That purplish color on top is from the glow of my TV. The chair is all red. 
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driftpin
Well-known member
My wife inherited a home from her parents who are now deceased. The home has been in their family 55 years. The one car garage was turned into an en-suite bedroom with full bath. We have it rented out, the house. The tenants complained of a foul smell so I went over to take a look at it.
The floor of the garage / bedroom is raised so there is a crawl space about 20 inches to the bottom of the floor joists. I went and crawled in and found that one of the fittings off of the toilet closet flange to the soil pipe had shattered, dwv pvc.
I cut out the old P-trap and replaced that. I decided to use no hubs instead of gluing it in so it can be detached if necessary. I did install a T fitting with a threaded plug and the downpipe from the toilet closet flange if I ever needed to snake it. The way I have it set up now with no hubs, it probably would be just as easy to remove the entire P-trap and snake directly into the open pipe. Still probably easier than pulling the toilet and snake-ing down through the toilet flange and the P-trap.
That was nasty work dealing with the soil pipe and what got caught in the broken fitting so I bought some Sam Adams to reward myself in dealing with a nasty problem (once work was done for the day, of-course). My wife had called a local plumber to come out and look at the house (they did arrive on-time) and they wanted to charge us $650 to camera scope the entire house's soil lines, before any work was to be done. No thanks, I solved it for probably $25 worth of dwv-pvc fittings.
The nasty:
Don't look too closely!
I have to return tomorrow to hang some perforated plumber's strap to support the P-trap, and to scrub the concrete floor of what used to be the garage floor, with cleaner and then bleach. I'll use a floor fan to air-out the entire house crawl-space, and do a check of the other full bath and a half-bath, to ensure there are no other issues. I kind of want to remove some abandoned in-place ductile cast iron dwv pipe elsewhere in the crawl-space. Years ago, I installed a pair of fluorescent 4' light fixtures, a GFCI single outlet w/a switch in the garage crawl space, and it's helped many times since then, when I've gone into the crawl space. Other crawl spaces beneath the house's floor joists are yet to be wired for lighting or outlets, but I have a 100 ' extension cord to reach anyplace under the floor joists, and as-partitioned by stem walls. There are openings in the stem walls so you can enter at one place, and make your way on hands and knees throughout the entire house's crawl-space.
Last week at our son's, our son & I installed a Rheem heat pump and 65 gallon electric water heater which he had bought on sale. A local plumber wanted $1,600 for that and that's just labor not including the cost of the water heater. Everything is plumbed and working if not the prettiest installation it's all functional. CPVC, copper fittings and pipe, soldered; s.s. woven flexible hose and aluminum coil hose. I saved $2,250 over prices we were quoted from plumbers, for these two jobs. The price would have been much higher because the work to fix what turned out to be shattered PVC waste pipe fittings at the single family rental was not included.
I have the cold-in and the hot-out, the TPRV and the condensate drain for the heat pump set up so the water heater can be disconnected if necessary for any servicing, w/o having to cut either the CU pipe or the CPVC, by disconnecting the woven s.s. hoses.
After a bit of coaching, my son demonstrated his mastery of soldering. I had given him a Bernz-O-Matic propane torch (a Rochester NY product) years ago, I use an acetylene plumber's torch, and I had to run to get a refilled tank, exchange at a local welding supplies store, Discount Weld, 2745 NW 21 St. Miami FL. I get my acetylene & O2 torch and brazing gases there, and my MIG and TIG gases. I am only an amateur, but having decent equipment helps. I have friends who can help me if needed.
I want to plumb a water heater pan drain, but our son doesn't want to have any more holes in the cbs wall. I still have some patching to do on the wall stucco inside and outside.
The outside condensate drain and the temperature and pressure relief valve drain are all CPVC. Code says max. 6" to floor or to grade for the discharge. My son wanted to use the water heater drain pan for the discharge from the TPRV, the drain pan didn't have any plumbing to a floor drain or to outside. I finally got him to agree to allowing me to plumb the TPRV and the heat pump condensate lines through an exterior block wall. I showed him the FL Building Code about the TPRV being terminated outside, and he finally agreed to go forward in that fashion (I'm a retired plans examiner licensed by the State of FL and a Lifesafety Code Inspector). As I used to tell the people submitting plans: "It's simple to get your plans approved quickly when you comply with code."
The floor of the garage / bedroom is raised so there is a crawl space about 20 inches to the bottom of the floor joists. I went and crawled in and found that one of the fittings off of the toilet closet flange to the soil pipe had shattered, dwv pvc.
I cut out the old P-trap and replaced that. I decided to use no hubs instead of gluing it in so it can be detached if necessary. I did install a T fitting with a threaded plug and the downpipe from the toilet closet flange if I ever needed to snake it. The way I have it set up now with no hubs, it probably would be just as easy to remove the entire P-trap and snake directly into the open pipe. Still probably easier than pulling the toilet and snake-ing down through the toilet flange and the P-trap.
That was nasty work dealing with the soil pipe and what got caught in the broken fitting so I bought some Sam Adams to reward myself in dealing with a nasty problem (once work was done for the day, of-course). My wife had called a local plumber to come out and look at the house (they did arrive on-time) and they wanted to charge us $650 to camera scope the entire house's soil lines, before any work was to be done. No thanks, I solved it for probably $25 worth of dwv-pvc fittings.
The nasty:
Don't look too closely!
I have to return tomorrow to hang some perforated plumber's strap to support the P-trap, and to scrub the concrete floor of what used to be the garage floor, with cleaner and then bleach. I'll use a floor fan to air-out the entire house crawl-space, and do a check of the other full bath and a half-bath, to ensure there are no other issues. I kind of want to remove some abandoned in-place ductile cast iron dwv pipe elsewhere in the crawl-space. Years ago, I installed a pair of fluorescent 4' light fixtures, a GFCI single outlet w/a switch in the garage crawl space, and it's helped many times since then, when I've gone into the crawl space. Other crawl spaces beneath the house's floor joists are yet to be wired for lighting or outlets, but I have a 100 ' extension cord to reach anyplace under the floor joists, and as-partitioned by stem walls. There are openings in the stem walls so you can enter at one place, and make your way on hands and knees throughout the entire house's crawl-space.
Last week at our son's, our son & I installed a Rheem heat pump and 65 gallon electric water heater which he had bought on sale. A local plumber wanted $1,600 for that and that's just labor not including the cost of the water heater. Everything is plumbed and working if not the prettiest installation it's all functional. CPVC, copper fittings and pipe, soldered; s.s. woven flexible hose and aluminum coil hose. I saved $2,250 over prices we were quoted from plumbers, for these two jobs. The price would have been much higher because the work to fix what turned out to be shattered PVC waste pipe fittings at the single family rental was not included.
I have the cold-in and the hot-out, the TPRV and the condensate drain for the heat pump set up so the water heater can be disconnected if necessary for any servicing, w/o having to cut either the CU pipe or the CPVC, by disconnecting the woven s.s. hoses.
After a bit of coaching, my son demonstrated his mastery of soldering. I had given him a Bernz-O-Matic propane torch (a Rochester NY product) years ago, I use an acetylene plumber's torch, and I had to run to get a refilled tank, exchange at a local welding supplies store, Discount Weld, 2745 NW 21 St. Miami FL. I get my acetylene & O2 torch and brazing gases there, and my MIG and TIG gases. I am only an amateur, but having decent equipment helps. I have friends who can help me if needed.
I want to plumb a water heater pan drain, but our son doesn't want to have any more holes in the cbs wall. I still have some patching to do on the wall stucco inside and outside.
The outside condensate drain and the temperature and pressure relief valve drain are all CPVC. Code says max. 6" to floor or to grade for the discharge. My son wanted to use the water heater drain pan for the discharge from the TPRV, the drain pan didn't have any plumbing to a floor drain or to outside. I finally got him to agree to allowing me to plumb the TPRV and the heat pump condensate lines through an exterior block wall. I showed him the FL Building Code about the TPRV being terminated outside, and he finally agreed to go forward in that fashion (I'm a retired plans examiner licensed by the State of FL and a Lifesafety Code Inspector). As I used to tell the people submitting plans: "It's simple to get your plans approved quickly when you comply with code."
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Toilets have an integral trap. Why is yours double trapped?
driftpin
Well-known member
That's how it was done under permit last century, I replaced the previously-installed plumbing.
As the siamese twins said, "Two heads are better than one."
You are giving me something to research.
Addendum of 2/26/26: dscheidt, after an easy search, you are absolutely correct.
I'm in my mid-70's and this may be the first plumbing line for a commode I've done. I've pulled and replaced many a toilet, for either replacement of the toilet, or to clean a waste line.
A good story about helping my DIL get a toilet clog cleared:
I should have known the porcelain fixture already has a labyrinthine path for the water seal, maybe the extra P-trap will 'daze & confuse' the vermin making their way from the street sanitary line to that bathroom... . We haven't had to put up with those norwegian rats like they have in the Big Apple, where people place cinder blocks on their toilet lids, or any rats inside the plumbing. The house had fruit trees, and occasionally you would see a rat walking the power & communication lines, to reach one or the other of the fruit trees, usually at dusk if you saw them at all. I haven't seen any for awhile.
So, thanks to dscheidt for reminding me of the path of black water.
As the siamese twins said, "Two heads are better than one."
You are giving me something to research.
Addendum of 2/26/26: dscheidt, after an easy search, you are absolutely correct.
I'm in my mid-70's and this may be the first plumbing line for a commode I've done. I've pulled and replaced many a toilet, for either replacement of the toilet, or to clean a waste line.
A good story about helping my DIL get a toilet clog cleared:
I should have known the porcelain fixture already has a labyrinthine path for the water seal, maybe the extra P-trap will 'daze & confuse' the vermin making their way from the street sanitary line to that bathroom... . We haven't had to put up with those norwegian rats like they have in the Big Apple, where people place cinder blocks on their toilet lids, or any rats inside the plumbing. The house had fruit trees, and occasionally you would see a rat walking the power & communication lines, to reach one or the other of the fruit trees, usually at dusk if you saw them at all. I haven't seen any for awhile.
So, thanks to dscheidt for reminding me of the path of black water.
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micromind
Well-known member
Around here, that would not be legal. Only one trap is allowed.
Beerhippie
Well-known member
What I'd want answered is why the fitting broke in the first place. I'd guess the floor is flexing under the toilet.
Oh, and why PVC instead of cellular ABS DVW line? It flexes more before breaking.
Oh, and why PVC instead of cellular ABS DVW line? It flexes more before breaking.
@driftpin - I'd be curious to hear some feedback on how that Proterra WH works out. I'm seriously considering one to replace our gas WH. My two concerns are recovery time and issues with condensation/moisture in the garage.
Recovery time may be a moot point. It's just two of us and we have a 50 gallon gas. With the hybrid WH, my understanding is the recovery time is longer. Not sure if it can be programmed to kick in the heater elements automatically to speed that up. I've read that a 65 gallon may be better suited to compensate for the extended recovery time.
Recovery time may be a moot point. It's just two of us and we have a 50 gallon gas. With the hybrid WH, my understanding is the recovery time is longer. Not sure if it can be programmed to kick in the heater elements automatically to speed that up. I've read that a 65 gallon may be better suited to compensate for the extended recovery time.
driftpin
Well-known member
Our son and his wife (and two kids who love soaking) are very happy with their ProTerra Rheem hybrid water heater. I saw w/my own peepers the amount of water condensate the system can produce. Our son said he could get a gallon of condensate water produced after awhile if on some setting, I'll ask him about the timeframe and the setting. They previously had a 30 gallon, so this should seem like 'an endless stream of hot water' to them. We have a Rinnai tankless water heater we had installed during a whole-house renovation we had done about 10 years ago, and four new bathrooms.
About the condensation, if you duct the condensate line to the exterior, I believe that would stop any issue inside the garage.
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Skyman
Well-known member
By
It it only me whose eyes seem to be seeing a bunch of some sorta snot that's been goobered all over that busted fitting? Not that it matters anymore, but I'm guessing it was busted long ago (possibly when first installed?), and somebody tried to avoid fixing it correctly. The second trap strongly suggests work that was done by somebody who knew very little about the task.
It it only me whose eyes seem to be seeing a bunch of some sorta snot that's been goobered all over that busted fitting? Not that it matters anymore, but I'm guessing it was busted long ago (possibly when first installed?), and somebody tried to avoid fixing it correctly. The second trap strongly suggests work that was done by somebody who knew very little about the task.
driftpin
Well-known member
I didn't measure the floor joists, I think they are 2 x 8's, 16" o.c. The floor sheathing is 3/4" I think, and was replaced a couple of years ago when we had re-modeled the bathroom.
I went to Home Depot for the pipe and fittings, and shopped in the 'DWV' area. I presume that it's PVC, I'll check today. I looked in the truck, and I didn't have any fittings or pipe to check.
driftpin
Well-known member
That would be me... .
But thank-you for being observant-enough to point out the issue, those of you for whom knowledge of this branch/discipline is more commonly utilized.Beerhippie
Well-known member
Easy enough: ABS drain/waste/vent (DWV) line is black and thick. PVC is white and thin--like some of the girls I've dated.
The "cellular" part in ABS DWV line means it's made with little bubbles in the plastic, which reduces drain noises.
rd65
Well-known member
Looks more like tp than some sort of silicone repair.
Skyman
Well-known member
That would be me... .
No offense intended. I hope none was taken. If it was, apology offered here now.
welder4956
Well-known member
I had to clean out the dryer lint screen and vent before getting garage time. Took it apart, vacuumed it all out, blew it out with the leaf blower, washed all the plastic parts, then put it all back together. I'll run a brush through the rest of the pipe from outside in the spring.
Then installed a switched outlet on the side of the portaband table for the saw plus LED light I picked up a couple of weeks ago.
Now back inside to see if I can recover my laptop files after the SSD crashed yesterday. I've ordered a new Western Digital drive to replace the oem drive from HP.
Then installed a switched outlet on the side of the portaband table for the saw plus LED light I picked up a couple of weeks ago.
Now back inside to see if I can recover my laptop files after the SSD crashed yesterday. I've ordered a new Western Digital drive to replace the oem drive from HP.
Ben Buck
Well-known member
Just outside the barn, I replaced the small rubber tire that contacts the drive plate when the drive handle ( lever ) is engaged.
Took my time- took about 45 minutes.
Lightly lubed the chains
Took my time- took about 45 minutes.
Lightly lubed the chains
driftpin
Well-known member
First, mea culpa. I was so concerned with the broken fitting on the plumbing underneath, next to the 3/4" sheathing under a new tile floor, that I was fixated with the nasty stuff I saw at the break. It better goes un-mentioned, what it was.
The clue should have been the size of the plumbing I was concerned with, it was 2" and not the 3" you would expect to see for a water closet, starting at 4" at the floor flange. I saw the effluent at the cracked fitting first-off the flange, and I immediately thought, "toilet! I was wrong.
Behind me was the 4" closet flange, and the reduction to 3" for the waste path. I was looking at the shower drain for grey water!
The brouhaha over two P-traps (one in the toilet, and the second what I cut-out and replaced) was mis-directed because of my faulty attention paid to the fitting being broken and what I presumed was offal escaping through the cracked fitting.
So I apologize for mis-identifying the shower floor drain as being the toilet drain.
I went back today to clean with bleach the area where the repaired shower drain was previously leaking. The repair was intact and I used bleach to clean the concrete floor beneath the repair. However, a malodorous smell persisted, I had told the wife I'd crawl across the crawl space to each of the bathrooms and follow the waste pipes to see where any leakage was. Well I did, and now, I have my work cut-out for me. Work begins tomorrow, I bought supplies. I'll let people know how things went.
kaymccampbell
Well-known member
If you did not put the p-trap back, then the open drain is your source of malodorous joy.
Wrench97
Well-known member
What is the other pipe on the tee ahead of the trap, is that a vent or another drain?
Beerhippie
Well-known member
I've used mason's lime to get rid of nasty smells from sewage leaks in a crawlspace. it works. Makes a gawdawful mess, but it works.
welder4956
Well-known member
I'm guessing that's from the toilet. Bad arrangement to have the toilet tee in above the shower trap, not to mention being choked down to 2". No way that would have passed inspection if a permit was pulled. Both toilet and shower drain need to be replumbed correctly.
GrayFlattop
Well-known member
Some jurisdictions do not allow ABS (like mine).
I want to know what that dark red gunk is.
Beerhippie
Well-known member
Brewery stuff again. I'm sure it was important.
Then back to fun time. Finished the roof rack system for the Brick:
Plenty of room for the stuff I don't want inside, a solar panel or two--when I can afford them--and maybe a sleeping/hangout platform for nice weather.
Local electrician was doing some work for us and asked where I bought the roof racks. I'll take that as a compliment.
Then back to fun time. Finished the roof rack system for the Brick:
Plenty of room for the stuff I don't want inside, a solar panel or two--when I can afford them--and maybe a sleeping/hangout platform for nice weather.
Local electrician was doing some work for us and asked where I bought the roof racks. I'll take that as a compliment.
SMOKEYBEAR
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 3, 2016
- Messages
- 458
Put together an idea that's been in my head for a while. Rod holder for when I'm stripping and re-lining my reels/rods. Mostly like I wanted it. The rod holder is a 15 degree one, a little steep for the longer rods. I may redesign it one more time, change where I use it... work in progress. I need it to lay flatter towards the ground. Ideally I strip the old line off like you see in the pictures, then re-spool it from a different setup in another vise opposite end of the table. I'm trying to make this process a bit more efficient. I have a few to do...
Attachments
kaymccampbell
Well-known member
Absolute jack. Dreamed about doing something real, tho.