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Nobody-named-Olli

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Joined
Jan 9, 2025
Messages
1,581
Location
North Rhine-Westphalia; Germany
This should be the most current version of those drivers. And even they are discontinued/ only available as long as Heyco has some stock left per their own account, on that site.


01456 = PH 1/2 included
01458 = PZ 1/2 included

And since the sticker of the purchased set shows Heyco’s address with a 5 digit postal code, that was printed in/ mid 1993 at the earliest.

And speaking of “East” and “West”, sadly there are people that still think that way - on both “sides”. And that’s all I’m going to say, because I like it here.

Kind regards,
Olli
 
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Brandon_oma#692

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Joined
Apr 20, 2011
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263
Location
North West corner of Illinois

lund

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 2, 2019
Messages
766
Location
Michigan
This should be the most current version of those drivers. And even they are discontinued/ only available as long as Heyco has some stock left per their own account, on that site.


01456 = PH 1/2 included
01458 = PZ 1/2 included

And since the sticker of the purchased set shows Heyco’s address with a 5 digit postal code, that was printed in/ mid 1993 at the earliest.

And speaking of “East” and “West”, sadly there are people that still think that way - on both “sides”. And that’s all I’m going to say, because I like it here.

Kind regards,
Olli
I worked a year near Frankfurt around 2000 and noticed the degree of West/East animosity at the time and figured it would die down in the future. Perhaps it has somewhat happened, but not to the full degree that I thought. Living in the USA, it often seems that trends here, both for better and for worse, often come to Germany a bit later. So I feared the right/left political mess we developed here would hit you Germany in the usual patterns. Unfortunately, that appears to be happening.

By the way, Berlin around 2000 was extremely interesting. You could see the East/West contrast in close proximity in the city zones. Not only in facilities, but in the approach and values of the people. Around the time, I mentioned that I liked some aspects of the east a bit better than the west in spite of the poorer housing etc and my German friends looked at me like I had lost my mind ! I also stopped off in a city Jenna while transiting and thought I woke up in the morning in the former Soviet Union (I speak Russian and traveled there so I am speaking from familiarity here). I suspect those days are over now. But it was a surreal time and very interesting.
 

Beerhippie

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,719
Location
Far NE Oregon
I bought some of these for work:

55126033004_17b2557e1b_o.jpg

I like 'em so much I bought another set for the road bag.

Are these tools or toys?

55126033009_b13b4304ac_o.jpg

Tire deflators for airing down on bad roads. These are the ones you preset. Screw 'em on they do the rest. The Vanagon calls for 40 psi rear, 35 front, so I labeled two of the them with yellow shrink tube for the rear tires and set those to 30. The fronts are set to 25 psi. Should be a good starting point.

With the M18 inflator on board, they'll be getting a lot of use.
 

four.cycle

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 19, 2015
Messages
28,722
Location
Tacoma, Washington
Those look VERY handy! Are they stubby, or standard length, or somewhere in between?

Any idea where they were made?
Mike -

I would say "standard length" - not overly long or short.
Manufactured in mainland China (PRC)
There's been some confusion recently about this one:
The "Dura Tech" brand is manufactured by
Zhejiang / Zhejiang Yiyang Tool Mfg. Co. Ltd., No 68 Guangming Rd., Xiao Nanhai, Longyou, Zhejiang, China 324404 / http://www.ironduketools.com/ / http://www.yiyangtools.com/ / "Duratech" "Ironduke" /
But recently something came up which hints at Great Star now owning "Duratech". I have not had a chance to sort it out yet.

I bought a set of those super-thin open-ends and gave them to my buddy. Haven't heard any feedback from him yet. I'm guessing he's not had a need to use them yet.
Fit and finish are superb. I do wonder about the chrome plating of the gullet of the wrench.
I sent @BlakeTheCarGuy a set of "DuraTech" combos, and asked him to report back on the chroming, but we haven't heard anything yet.
I've been fairly impressed with the "DuraTech" stuff I've held in my hands, but have not used any of it - it all got shipped out or given away.
 

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CHRIII

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 12, 2020
Messages
233
Location
NE TN
Looks like I'm getting a couple of them. Gramps had one that looked similar (and with the same hands) that Sears sold as Craftsman, but it broke ages ago.

Even 20 years ago, the Craftsman one was way more than $5.99--want to say $20-ish.
If you still have the broken clock, replacing the battery powered movement would probably fix it. The replacement movements are not very expensive and I've replaced them in a couple of clocks we like that stopped working.

You'll need to take the old movement out and measure the diameter and length of its shaft to get one that will fit properly.
 
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mikeinri

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 29, 2019
Messages
8,227
Location
MA
Mike -

I would say "standard length" - not overly long or short.
Manufactured in mainland China (PRC)
There's been some confusion recently about this one:
The "Dura Tech" brand is manufactured by
Zhejiang / Zhejiang Yiyang Tool Mfg. Co. Ltd., No 68 Guangming Rd., Xiao Nanhai, Longyou, Zhejiang, China 324404 / http://www.ironduketools.com/ / http://www.yiyangtools.com/ / "Duratech" "Ironduke" /
But recently something came up which hints at Great Star now owning "Duratech". I have not had a chance to sort it out yet.

I bought a set of those super-thin open-ends and gave them to my buddy. Haven't heard any feedback from him yet. I'm guessing he's not had a need to use them yet.
Fit and finish are superb. I do wonder about the chrome plating of the gullet of the wrench.
I sent @BlakeTheCarGuy a set of "DuraTech" combos, and asked him to report back on the chroming, but we haven't heard anything yet.
I've been fairly impressed with the "DuraTech" stuff I've held in my hands, but have not used any of it - it all got shipped out or given away.

Interesting, thanks.

Mike
 

Squankum

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 28, 2011
Messages
7,684
Location
Southeast
I worked a year near Frankfurt around 2000 and noticed the degree of West/East animosity at the time and figured it would die down in the future. Perhaps it has somewhat happened, but not to the full degree that I thought. Living in the USA, it often seems that trends here, both for better and for worse, often come to Germany a bit later. So I feared the right/left political mess we developed here would hit you Germany in the usual patterns. Unfortunately, that appears to be happening.

By the way, Berlin around 2000 was extremely interesting. You could see the East/West contrast in close proximity in the city zones. Not only in facilities, but in the approach and values of the people. Around the time, I mentioned that I liked some aspects of the east a bit better than the west in spite of the poorer housing etc and my German friends looked at me like I had lost my mind ! I also stopped off in a city Jenna while transiting and thought I woke up in the morning in the former Soviet Union (I speak Russian and traveled there so I am speaking from familiarity here). I suspect those days are over now. But it was a surreal time and very interesting.

One-N Jena, in Thuringia? I buy borosilicate kitchen pitchers from there!



Surreality continues, as I looked at that Wikipedia page for the city and saw this old LeBaron:

1772512248502.png
 

four.cycle

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 19, 2015
Messages
28,722
Location
Tacoma, Washington
^ I'm only on one or two days a week right now.
He and I discussed those wrenches - I very deliberately sent those his way because I was concerned about chrome plating the gullets.
Told him if the chrome started to peel off, toss them into the trash.
Haven't heard anything from him on them yet.
They were "stubby" metric combos - real shiny:
 

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LeeG

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 29, 2012
Messages
1,525
Location
Phoenix, AZ
Koken had a President’s Day sale, and I thought I’d give those nut grabber sockets a try.

IMG_3150.jpeg

Along with a set of 1/4” drive wobble lock extensions. I have the 3/8 and like them a lot. Also a T-handle and a 24” blade for my fireball square.

Lee
 

BlakeTheCarGuy

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Oct 10, 2018
Messages
9,344
Location
Roanoke Virginia
Mike -

I would say "standard length" - not overly long or short.
Manufactured in mainland China (PRC)
There's been some confusion recently about this one:
The "Dura Tech" brand is manufactured by
Zhejiang / Zhejiang Yiyang Tool Mfg. Co. Ltd., No 68 Guangming Rd., Xiao Nanhai, Longyou, Zhejiang, China 324404 / http://www.ironduketools.com/ / http://www.yiyangtools.com/ / "Duratech" "Ironduke" /
But recently something came up which hints at Great Star now owning "Duratech". I have not had a chance to sort it out yet.

I bought a set of those super-thin open-ends and gave them to my buddy. Haven't heard any feedback from him yet. I'm guessing he's not had a need to use them yet.
Fit and finish are superb. I do wonder about the chrome plating of the gullet of the wrench.
I sent @BlakeTheCarGuy a set of "DuraTech" combos, and asked him to report back on the chroming, but we haven't heard anything yet.
I've been fairly impressed with the "DuraTech" stuff I've held in my hands, but have not used any of it - it all got shipped out or given away.
I’ve been using them as much as possible. Haven’t got to put them through any extreme use yet though. No chrome issues so far.
 

lund

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 2, 2019
Messages
766
Location
Michigan
One-N Jena, in Thuringia? I buy borosilicate kitchen pitchers from there!



Surreality continues, as I looked at that Wikipedia page for the city and saw this old LeBaron:

1772512248502.png
I think Jena (Pronounced like Yenna in German) was a tech city in the former East Germany. The pic above looks like typical any mid size city in Germany (Western part or otherwise) these days: clean, orderly, etc. I thought Germany was very nice. German cities generally have a nice mix of parks etc. Tools are higher quality (or were) ;) People there also tend to fix things and not throw away, and construct with a good attention to detail. That fits my mentality better than we we have evolved to in the USA! It does not surprise me a fair number of Germans would read and contribute Garage Journal. A surprising number of people there also speak and write higher level English ... which can make it harder to seriously study German if language lazy like I am.

Germany is also very safe. BUT it can be somewhat backwards to expectations for US citizens. Not so much "good neighborhood" and "bad neighborhood" stratification. But if you go to a political rally or sports event and say the wrong thing you can get in a surprising amount of trouble quickly. In the USA politics and sports are more peaceful ... but living areas in the USA range from European level safe or better to almost war zones depending on the local economy (mostly). People in Germany are probably considerably more picky on what they buy in food, materials, and equipment than in the states.
 
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lund

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 2, 2019
Messages
766
Location
Michigan
Needed something to help fill a differential. It was cheap. It's also sloooooow 🤣 I think I could have gotten better results with a suction gun. But it did work, and didn't break.1772551927797.png

Some advice if you want: It sounds like you have what you need. But I have a Subaru Forester and filling the 2 differentials plus CVT was a royal pain. First I tried squeezing quart bottles with a hose cap etc (nighmare). So I also bought one of these pumps and found it very underwhelming. VERY slow transfers as you say. Plus the hose that comes with the cheap pump was stiff plastic and easily jostled out of the fill hole (while pumping forever) or slipped off the spout nub making a big mess periodically. Plus one pump broke in the middle of a transfer making a mess. It was exasperating over something that should be easy. To compound matters, the Subaru CVT also has VERY high fluid capacity to make use torture. Heavy gear oil for differentials also did not pump very well in the small plastic pump and the front differential had a fair volume of it too.

So I tried two things. First, I replaced the hose with a longer and very supple silicon hose. This helped a lot. But still ended up taking forever and messy. And when you have a zillion strokes to fill, things tend to go wrong.

So next, for lower differential volumes in awkward fill positions (front differential fill hole is awkward) I switched to a larger size Mityvac "extractor" syringe like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MVA6852-Fluid-Extractor/dp/B0741G9P6R/?tag=atomicindus08-20

This worked much much better. I would take the plunger off the back of the syringe, then pour gear oil into it with the hose capped so it would not leak out, and then use the syringe to squirt the gear oil in. Then repeat cycle till the differentials were filled. This worked fine without too much mess -- even with heavy gear oil.

For the CVT (huge volume) this was not tennable unless you want to fill the syringe all afternoon and accumulate a big mess of spills and drips. So I used a larger size Mityvac floor extractor/dispenser pump that I sometimes use for brake & power fluid fluid extractions and lawnmower oil changes. I cleaned the extractor/dispenser out well from old oil and let the solvents dry, then filled it with new CVT fluid, and used it transfer pump into the CVT till filled. This was very quick and clean. If I had a shop, I would buy a few of these and leave one for transmission fluid types and another for gear oil to avoid much of the cleaning prep issues to get ready to use for dispensing new fluid rather than extraction of old fluid. This one Mityvac floor model is the same or very similar to what I used as a dispenser:


I think you can buy Mityvac clones for both of these at Harbor Freight. The Harbor Freight models might be ok enough and a bit cheaper than Mityvac models.
 
Last edited:

lund

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 2, 2019
Messages
766
Location
Michigan
Some advice if you want: It sounds like you have what you need. But I have a Subaru Forester and filling the 2 differentials plus CVT was a royal pain. First I tried squeezing quart bottles with a hose cap etc (nighmare). So I also bought one of these pumps and found it very underwhelming. VERY slow transfers as you say. Plus the hose that comes with the cheap pump was stiff plastic and easily jostled out of the fill hole (while pumping forever) or slipped off the spout nub making a big mess periodically. Plus one pump broke in the middle of a transfer making a mess. It was exasperating over something that should be easy. To compound matters, the Subaru CVT also has VERY high fluid capacity to make use torture. Heavy gear oil for differentials also did not pump very well in the small plastic pump and the front differential had a fair volume of it too.

So I tried two things. First, I replaced the hose with a longer and very supple silicon hose. This helped a lot. But still ended up taking forever and messy. And when you have a zillion strokes to fill, things tend to go wrong.

So next, for lower differential volumes in awkward fill positions (front differential fill hole is awkward) I switched to a larger size Mityvac "extractor" syringe like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MVA6852-Fluid-Extractor/dp/B0741G9P6R/?tag=atomicindus08-20

This worked much much better. I would take the plunger off the back of the syringe, then pour gear oil into it with the hose capped so it would not leak out, and then use the syringe to squirt the gear oil in. Then repeat cycle till the differentials were filled. This worked fine without too much mess -- even with heavy gear oil.

For the CVT (huge volume) this was not tennable unless you want to fill the syringe all afternoon and accumulate a big mess. So I used a larger size Mityvac floor extractor/dispenser pump that I sometimes use for brake & power fluid fluid extractions and lawnmower oil changes. I cleaned the extractor/dispenser out well, then filled it with CVT fluid, and used it pump into the CVT till filled. This was quick and clean. If I had a shop. I would buy a few of these and leave one for transmission fluid types and another for gear oil to avoid much of the clean up issues to get ready. This one is the same or very similar to what I used:


I think you can buy Mityvac clones for both of these at Harbor Freight. They might be ok and a bit cheaper. I am sure there are also a lot of pump options to do similar. But this is what I found worked well for me with somewhat constricted fill ports and high volumes.
 

neophyte

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 23, 2012
Messages
9,590
Location
Pennsylvannia
I think Jena (Pronounced like Yenna in German) was a tech city in the former East Germany. The pic above looks like typical any mid size city in Germany (Western part or otherwise) these days: clean, orderly, etc. I thought Germany was very nice. German cities generally have a nice mix of parks etc. Tools are higher quality (or were) ;) People there also tend to fix things and not throw away, and construct with a good attention to detail. That fits my mentality better than we we have evolved to in the USA! It does not surprise me a fair number of Germans would read and contribute Garage Journal. A surprising number of people there also speak and write higher level English ... which can make it harder to seriously study German if language lazy like I am.

Germany is also very safe. BUT it can be somewhat backwards to expectations for US citizens. Not so much "good neighborhood" and "bad neighborhood" stratification. But if you go to a political rally or sports event and say the wrong thing you can get in a surprising amount of trouble quickly. In the USA politics and sports are more peaceful ... but living areas range from Europe safe or better to almost war zones depending on economy (mostly). People are probably considerably more picky on what they buy in food, materials, and equipment than in the states.
Jena Glass is related to Schott AG, which was sort of the “Corning or CorningWare” of Germany.


As for the household hlassware, it was dold as “Jena” and “Jenaer Glas”, and now seems to be sold as “Trendgkas Jena” with manufacture shifting to Hungry, at a facility that had bern producing glass for Schott for a couple decades or more.
 

Beerhippie

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,719
Location
Far NE Oregon
One-N Jena, in Thuringia? I buy borosilicate kitchen pitchers from there!
Jena was, pre-WWII, the home of a little optics company called Carl Zeiss. They skedadeled for the West (or were skedadeled) after war, at which time the plant became known as Aus Jena. Early production was about on par with Zeiss--not strange considering it was their plant and many of their employees. Over the years, quality fell off considerably. Aus Jena was sometimes referred to as "Soviet Zeiss".

Being essentially next door to Schott, a major producer of optical glass, didn't hurt any.

The plant is now known as Carl Zeiss, Jena.

 
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Squankum

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 28, 2011
Messages
7,684
Location
Southeast
Germany is also very safe. BUT it can be somewhat backwards to expectations for US citizens. Not so much "good neighborhood" and "bad neighborhood" stratification. But if you go to a political rally or sports event and say the wrong thing you can get in a surprising amount of trouble quickly. In the USA politics and sports are more peaceful ... but living areas range from Europe safe or better to almost war zones depending on economy (mostly). People are probably considerably more picky on what they buy in food, materials, and equipment than in the states.

Cheese food is too a food it says "food" right there on the wrapper!

Dangit, I'm OT. I need to order a tool.
 

shoggoth80

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 28, 2013
Messages
857
Location
Seattle
Some advice if you want: It sounds like you have what you need. But I have a Subaru Forester and filling the 2 differentials plus CVT was a royal pain. First I tried squeezing quart bottles with a hose cap etc (nighmare). So I also bought one of these pumps and found it very underwhelming. VERY slow transfers as you say. Plus the hose that comes with the cheap pump was stiff plastic and easily jostled out of the fill hole (while pumping forever) or slipped off the spout nub making a big mess periodically. Plus one pump broke in the middle of a transfer making a mess. It was exasperating over something that should be easy. To compound matters, the Subaru CVT also has VERY high fluid capacity to make use torture. Heavy gear oil for differentials also did not pump very well in the small plastic pump and the front differential had a fair volume of it too.

So I tried two things. First, I replaced the hose with a longer and very supple silicon hose. This helped a lot. But still ended up taking forever and messy. And when you have a zillion strokes to fill, things tend to go wrong.

So next, for lower differential volumes in awkward fill positions (front differential fill hole is awkward) I switched to a larger size Mityvac "extractor" syringe like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MVA6852-Fluid-Extractor/dp/B0741G9P6R/?tag=atomicindus08-20

This worked much much better. I would take the plunger off the back of the syringe, then pour gear oil into it with the hose capped so it would not leak out, and then use the syringe to squirt the gear oil in. Then repeat cycle till the differentials were filled. This worked fine without too much mess -- even with heavy gear oil.

For the CVT (huge volume) this was not tennable unless you want to fill the syringe all afternoon and accumulate a big mess. So I used a larger size Mityvac floor extractor/dispenser pump that I sometimes use for brake & power fluid fluid extractions and lawnmower oil changes. I cleaned the extractor/dispenser out well, then filled it with CVT fluid, and used it pump into the CVT till filled. This was quick and clean. If I had a shop, I would buy a few of these and leave one for transmission fluid types and another for gear oil to avoid much of the clean up issues to get ready to use on context of use changes. This one Mityvac floor model is the same or very similar to what I used as a dispenser:


I think you can buy Mityvac clones for both of these at Harbor Freight. The Harbor Freight models might be ok enough and a bit cheaper.
Very much in the spirit of using a suction gun instead. The difference being transparent vs non. Though really, a transparent option DOES have merit.
Often if I can wrangle a way around, I'll up-end a bottle with a fair length of hose, and punch a hole in the bottom. 🤣
 

Pexto

Well-known member
Joined
May 5, 2018
Messages
638
I've had really good results with the flex pouches. You can get them in just about anywhere. You can squeeze the pouch and roll it up as you go. You can refill them from a bulk container if needed. Way faster than the cheap little pumps, and (usually) less messy as well.
valvo.jpg
 

L.Cheapo

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 23, 2014
Messages
5,899
I've had really good results with the flex pouches. You can get them in just about anywhere. You can squeeze the pouch and roll it up as you go. You can refill them from a bulk container if needed. Way faster than the cheap little pumps, and (usually) less messy as well.
valvo.jpg
I thought those were silly.

Then I tried one.

Now I wish they sold ATF+4 in them.
 

javyLSU

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 2, 2019
Messages
1,542
Location
New Haven, CT
I've had really good results with the flex pouches. You can get them in just about anywhere. You can squeeze the pouch and roll it up as you go. You can refill them from a bulk container if needed. Way faster than the cheap little pumps, and (usually) less messy as well.
valvo.jpg
Completely agree - I've switched to Valvoline for my gear oil specifically because they started selling them in these pouches a few years ago. Those little pumps ****.
 

lund

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 2, 2019
Messages
766
Location
Michigan
Very much in the spirit of using a suction gun instead. The difference being transparent vs non. Though really, a transparent option DOES have merit.
Often if I can wrangle a way around, I'll up-end a bottle with a fair length of hose, and punch a hole in the bottom. 🤣

I tried the hole punch in bottom method too. It made a mess due to the positions of the fill holes.

Maybe it is just me. But whenever I work on cars I end up getting slimed. I sometimes think I can do something quick and clean without messing up clothes ... Ha! Don't even get me started on anti-seize. I live in the rust belt and use a lot of it. So I always end up part silver or copper smuged all over depending on what I do :(
 

OldCarGuy

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 29, 2005
Messages
1,984
Location
Ohio
Yet another Spontaneous purchase..

I was having my tractor's starter benched tested at my starter-generator rebuild shop today. The owner (that I've dealt with for 40 years) asked I'd give him fifty bucks for these fine used tools... I didn't hesitate, took out a Grant, and said sure... Even though do I really need these tools? After all I have more than enough and then some..

The like new Mitutoyo Dial Indicator alone was worth that. And the rest came along for the ride.. Most are made in the USA. Maybe not major top quality; but respectable.. Gem indicator was made right here in Cleveland Ohio. The One, Two, and Three inch micrometers are Central Tool, made in Rhode Island. A few are Starrett. The drill gage is General Hardware made in NY.

a82ac2d7-55e2-4354-9e2f-feade7c33a82.jpg
 

L.Cheapo

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 23, 2014
Messages
5,899
Yet another Spontaneous purchase..

I was having my tractor's starter benched tested at my starter-generator rebuild shop today. The owner (that I've dealt with for 40 years) asked I'd give him fifty bucks for these fine used tools... I didn't hesitate, took out a Grant, and said sure... Even though do I really need these tools? After all I have more than enough and then some..

The like new Mitutoyo Dial Indicator alone was worth that. And the rest came along for the ride.. Most are made in the USA. Maybe not major top quality; but respectable.. Gem indicator was made right here in Cleveland Ohio. The One, Two, and Three inch micrometers are Central Tool, made in Rhode Island. A few are Starrett. The drill gage is General Hardware made in NY.

a82ac2d7-55e2-4354-9e2f-feade7c33a82.jpg
Wow. Suckage awarded.
 

wkndwarrior29

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 19, 2015
Messages
718
Location
NorthEast
Needed something to help fill a differential. It was cheap. It's also sloooooow 🤣 I think I could have gotten better results with a suction gun. But it did work, and didn't break.

I use these for anything less than 2 Liters as well and keep a dedicated bottle for each fluid. A trick to make it easier is to keep the pump head fixed and pump the bottle so your hose doesn't move. I did diff fluid last weekend and it took me around a minute to pump 16oz of gear oil. The extra few minutes to pump/refill are a lot less than the effort to use the powerfill then clean it between fluids.
 

lund

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 2, 2019
Messages
766
Location
Michigan
I use these for anything less than 2 Liters as well and keep a dedicated bottle for each fluid. A trick to make it easier is to keep the pump head fixed and pump the bottle so your hose doesn't move. I did diff fluid last weekend and it took me around a minute to pump 16oz of gear oil. The extra few minutes to pump/refill are a lot less than the effort to use the powerfill then clean it between fluids.

Maybe so on the stroke motion. But I had little luck keeping things in place enough no matter what I did with the stiff and short hoses with the ports + positions that I was dealing with over many strokes even for ~ 2 ish liters. Replacing the stiff hoses with supple silicone helped a lot though and almost was good enough for differentials (till the stupid pump mechanism broke). BUT for CVTs on a Subaru Forester, it takes about 7 quarts (!) to refill ... which is an awful lot of strokes for that small pump cylinder!

Cleaning the extractor/dispenser pump is a legit problem though as you point out if you use it for oil changes and similar. But I have one small syringe extractor to remove brake fluid and one for gear oil dispensing. The CVT is only every 70k ish miles when I use the large extractor/dispenser floor pump, so I can live with solvent cleaning and drying it out on that at that interval.

By the way, Subaru claimed at one point their CVT fluid was "lifetime" fluid. I guess if you want to trash it at 100k miles. But people who believed that did not have good lifetimes. Even at 100k miles it will look like sludge if you dare. Manufacturers sometimes claim some silly things if they only care to survive their warranty period. But if you want to keep the vehicles long, reasonable intervals of differential oil an transmission fluid cycling are very much needed! Painful and messy or not.
 

lund

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 2, 2019
Messages
766
Location
Michigan
Yet another Spontaneous purchase..

I was having my tractor's starter benched tested at my starter-generator rebuild shop today. The owner (that I've dealt with for 40 years) asked I'd give him fifty bucks for these fine used tools... I didn't hesitate, took out a Grant, and said sure... Even though do I really need these tools? After all I have more than enough and then some..

The like new Mitutoyo Dial Indicator alone was worth that. And the rest came along for the ride.. Most are made in the USA. Maybe not major top quality; but respectable.. Gem indicator was made right here in Cleveland Ohio. The One, Two, and Three inch micrometers are Central Tool, made in Rhode Island. A few are Starrett. The drill gage is General Hardware made in NY.

a82ac2d7-55e2-4354-9e2f-feade7c33a82.jpg

Nice. I guess electronic micrometers are more convenient these days if you have some. But everything else should be useful.

I wonder why he is ditching his equipment. I bet because nobody will pay for anything rebuilt these days and may as well find a home and/or retiring ? It is amazing how much quality old machinist tools are generally available on the 2nd hand market around former industrial areas. I am in Michigan and often see stuff posted. My guess is stuff from the USA industrial age relatives who pass and relatives sell it on the cheap since they do not want to pitch it.
 

lund

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 2, 2019
Messages
766
Location
Michigan
I've had really good results with the flex pouches. You can get them in just about anywhere. You can squeeze the pouch and roll it up as you go. You can refill them from a bulk container if needed. Way faster than the cheap little pumps, and (usually) less messy as well.
valvo.jpg

Good idea!

I suspect this is a good and simple solution for modest volume of things like gear oil. Likely cleaner, easier, and cheaper than what I suggested with the Mityvac syringe type extractor to inject gear oil in differentials and better than fighting with small cheapo cylinder pumps. But I would not want to do that with high volumes though like a Subaru Forester CVT. You probably also need to have one flex bag with the right fluid in it to start else it would be hard to clean from contamination. Or, perhaps, one could buy/make squeeze bags of the type and size wanted using off the shelf stuff.
 

Squankum

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 28, 2011
Messages
7,684
Location
Southeast
Very much in the spirit of using a suction gun instead. The difference being transparent vs non. Though really, a transparent option DOES have merit.
Often if I can wrangle a way around, I'll up-end a bottle with a fair length of hose, and punch a hole in the bottom. 🤣

Garden sprayers can be converted to fluid dispensers, too.
 
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