More old tool restoration...
Okay guys, quick update.
I decided to get started on the vise. Again, quick refresher:
By
daveamy at 2011-07-06
I took all the rusty crusty hardware:
By
daveamy at 2011-07-08
And made it look better

:
By
daveamy at 2011-07-08
Not totally done yet (as you can make out). The proces was to use a FINE wire wheel (heavy wire gouges the metal) to get off a large part of the rust, and then use a 3M EXL deburring wheel (NOT cheap but worth every penny!!!) to get that perfect, 'new, slightly wire brushed but polished' look.
Next up, I had to tackle this broken bolt in the casting:
By
daveamy at 2011-07-08
By
daveamy at 2011-07-08
So I chucked up drill bits, going steadily up in size, and bored out the hole:
By
daveamy at 2011-07-08
And then, got to here:
By
daveamy at 2011-07-08
And I made a boo-boo. When that moon-shaped piece came loose, it must have grabbed the drill bit HARD, because, um, the drill chuck continued to turn and, um, the actually drill bit, did not. So I ruined a drill bit, and I'm hoping I didn't ruin the jacobs chuck. I'm not sure how I would have avoided it, but I'm glad that piece is loose. So now its just loose, still stuck in there

. Haven't figured out yet how to get it out. I'm thinking of grinding it down real thin, then just crushing it and pulling it out.
On to the main castings, I went ahead and started a 2nd electrolysis bath:
By
daveamy at 2011-07-08
By
daveamy at 2011-07-08
For those of you who haven't heard of electrolysis, here is a quick run down:
1. Involves rusty GOOD piece, clean metal 'sacrificial' pieces, manual battery charger, water, and an activating agent (in this case, Arm and Hammer 'washing' soda - not baking soda...important!)
I'll 'spare' you the scientific mumbo jumbo (mainly because basically I don't know it) and put it in lay mans terms. Through the electical current and activating agent, you're basically reversing the chemical reaction of rusting and just 'moving' the rust from the good piece to the scrap piece. It is actually pretty awesome and there is absolutely no better way to get the rust off small pieces, especially if preservation of the surface is key (note: paint will be NOT survive!). The downside is that it takes a while (several days constantly if piece is heavily rusted). I started it up yesterday early evening, but the first time I did it with this vise it ran for several days, so it shouldn't take that long - I'm thinking by tomorrow it should be good to go. The reason I'm doing it a second time is that the first time when it was done, I just pulled it out and it sat around forever. Uncoated steel will rust immediately. Even though Colorado is really dry, I thought I'd give it another go just to be thorough.
Tomorrow I might even get the chance to start finishing it (vises are easy restos). The main goal for tomorrow will be finishing up with the bondo on the cabinets and maybe get on the first bit of paint!
Questing - prime cabinets before paint or just paint? I have that Glidden drywall primer and I'm wondering if it might be a good idea to use on the cabinets before paint. Any thoughts?