setting anchor pots in new floor pour

[inphx]

Hi all,

Hope you all can weigh in with some tips and lessons learned.

I wil be building a new "toy shop" and one of my desires is to set some anchor pots into the floor as i pour the new foundation. i wont do frame straightening frequently but i did one or 2 jobs and woudl like to be better set up.

It seems install instructions drill and seat the unit on an existing floor.

I was thinking of welding some rebar to the pots so i can have them "planted" where needed before the pour.

(also what about in floor conduit for power or air - or alloverhead?)

What do you all think?

 

[K'ledgeBldr]

Something like these:
http://www.pacificmarine.net/airtiedown.htm

Under slab conduit is usually needed for recessed scissor jacks- everything else is usually "above".

 

[TurnipTruck]

I put chain pots in my floor, too. I used 4" scrap pipe (with flanges already welded on) cut to the proper height and redheaded to a subslab. The pipe spools were torched for a scrap half of a truck swaybar to go through and then poured concrete around. I did it this way 'cause I had plenty of scrap and no money for buying the real pots. I have to fish a chain with a hook through to use it.
On the subject of conduit in the slab: If the conduit is buried in the sub-base so that the concrete is of uniform thickness, do it. I have a nice fat crack following the only conduit in my slab because I didn't bury it.

 

[kbs2244]

I wouldn’t use rebar under the concrete as an anchor.
It is too soft.
An axel shaft would do well.

 

[kwb]

If you aren't doing this sort of thing regularly the best idea I have heard is to set a few pieces of I-beam strategically in the floor so the top flange is a grade pin and when you need an anchor point you simply weld a hook to the beam, when done, cut off grind smooth.

Anchor pots are a PITA to sweep around,
the lids never sit there like they should,
they fill up with crud,
you end up tripping on them,
if you have a dead car they make it hard to roll the car around because the pot is full of crud so the chain & cap is sticking out,
if you have things on casters you continually have to steer around them because the small diameter wheels don't go over them well,
floor jacks seem to find a way to drop a wheel in the hole just at the wrong time.

We put the pots in after the fact at the bodyshop my dad had--- core drilled then drove in a section of DOM tube then a chain with a bar across it snaked in from the top and then set down into place.

 

[kwb]

Presetting them is also hard to get them to be just right as you are working the concrete. If you do that expect the floor is not going to be as flat as it would be in that area if it was just finished as normal open floor

 

[inphx]

Thanks - i was thinking rebar just to plant them at the right height before the pour but now am thinking i like the 4" pipe or angle iron or scrap to help anchor under the pad.


I hear you on the drawbacks to having the obstructions/floor pots when not in use... i wonder if there is any way to have 3/4 to 1' PCV above it where i can make some exact plugs to floor grade for most of the time the setup is not in use.

BTW - dont google 4" rubber plug - less you want a pain in the ****.

 

[Sureshot]

I cemented well casing collars in my floor so I can thread in whatever I want and they sit flush when empty. I don't remember what I welded to them but it would have been whatever was handy and expendable. I put some 1 1/2 black water hose under my slab to bring air lines up between the overhead doors and on the addition I did the same to get water to the bathroom. You can then fish whatever cable or hose you want through the pipe. I would do it again in a heart beat to get air around the shop with out the wall mounted lines. I ran 3/4 copper around the shop with an outlet every 12'. I have a 42x60 shop. I mounted a hose spool on each end of the shop with a 50' hose and rarely use the outlets. If I do it again I would go underslab to a couple key locations and put the hose spools and call it good. I also buried an airline to the house when putting the other lines in and it was a great idea. One hose spool mounted inbetween the garage doors there services all I need to do in the house garage and no more carrying an airtank and keeps the wife out of the shop and my toys.

 

[Torque1st]

I used 7/8" coupling nuts with a 7/8" bolt, washers, and a pipe spacer, in the bottom side set in the concrete before finishing. The top of the unit was covered in tape to keep concrete out. The 7/8" diameter hole does not impede casters etc. I just run a 7/8" bolt into them when I want to fasten anything down. When not in use they are plugged with a slotted section of 7/8" all-thread or part of a bolt greased up with anti-seize. 7/8" coupling nuts are available at some hardware stores and steel supply houses.

https://www.google.com/search?hl=en...0l13608l12l12l0l2l2l0l127l615l9j1l10l0.efis.1.

 

[zeebad1]

I thought about fabricating some of the things that others have suggested, but ended up buying 4 of these,

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/champ-floor-anchor-pot-1600-p-11538.aspx

along with the "new floor plates."

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/champ-instant-floor-plate-new-floors-p-10320.aspx

I welded some rebar "legs" to the plates, so I could drive them in to grade, and they ended up flush with the concrete.

 

[zeebad1]

Hi all,



(also what about in floor conduit for power or air - or alloverhead?)

What do you all think?

I didn't read this part earlier. My vote goes for conduit under the floor.

I have air, water, & electrical all in conduit, under the concrete. Even a couple of strategically placed outlets, where the welding table & 2 post lift are located. No overhead wires or cords running to either of them.

 

[JCQuick]

I used to sell Frame equipment one of our biggest sellers was a floor system that requirge 14 anchor pots we would core drill the pattern install the pots then put an air over hydraulic press designed to install these pots and pull them to 10,000 psi that was a set minimum.

 

[kwb]

I used 7/8" coupling nuts with a 7/8" bolt, washers, and a pipe spacer, in the bottom side set in the concrete before finishing. The top of the unit was covered in tape to keep concrete out. The 7/8" diameter hole does not impede casters etc. I just run a 7/8" bolt into them when I want to fasten anything down. When not in use they are plugged with a slotted section of 7/8" all-thread or part of a bolt greased up with anti-seize. 7/8" coupling nuts are available at some hardware stores and steel supply houses.

https://www.google.com/search?hl=en...0l13608l12l12l0l2l2l0l127l615l9j1l10l0.efis.1.

this is another very good suggestion for someone that might occasionally need an anchor point but not on a regular basis.

 

[like2wheel]

I used 7/8" coupling nuts with a 7/8" bolt, washers, and a pipe spacer, in the bottom side set in the concrete before finishing. The top of the unit was covered in tape to keep concrete out. The 7/8" diameter hole does not impede casters etc. I just run a 7/8" bolt into them when I want to fasten anything down. When not in use they are plugged with a slotted section of 7/8" all-thread or part of a bolt greased up with anti-seize. 7/8" coupling nuts are available at some hardware stores and steel supply houses.

https://www.google.com/search?hl=en...0l13608l12l12l0l2l2l0l127l615l9j1l10l0.efis.1.

I know this is an old thread, but it sounds to be a good solution to the same issues I have while considering having pots placed with my floor pour.

Wondering if i should consider stainless steel, or possibly hot galvanized coupling nuts.

Looks like Fastenal has 1/2" couplers available in stainless 18-8 or 316. Not sure which is stronger.
Or maybe safer to use 3/4" hot dipped galvanized?
7/8 seems like overkill.

I know nothing about placing concrete, is this something that could easily set (with the bolt & washers out the bottom) during the pour, or would I need to have them fastened to something driven in the subgrade & set to the finish height?

Any advise is appreciated

 

[sberry]

Never used one. Unless I was in the biz it's something I would skip. There are a lot of things like this, needed once, built in, never used again. 30 years I welded one bracket to a column for a pull, used it once.
I would get some electric under the floor especially under doors and all this makes a difference in large shops with tall ceilings and long runs. I am not a fan of air in the floor, cant make gravity work for drainage and they often have water in them.
Also, Shureshot made a good point which I found to be true. The reels get used, the rest of it rarely or never. I re plumbed my air, eleminated about 1/2 of it, moved a thing or 2, didn't "add" any.

 

[sberry]

It's not a deal breaker, nothing fundamentally wrong with them but it's not something I wish I had. Its so rare I would come up with something one off. Second, same with a lot of other plan threads I found it really didn't look so much like all the plans and didn't turn out exactly the same and in the end a few changes needed.
I had to extend 1 underfloor water hydrant I really missed, I lived with it a while and said finally enough and extend it to a convenient location. The extension got 2 hydrants, one in and out. Never used the original install and use the addition all the time.
Moral of the story is don't be all scared to move something to get it to work right. Cept for a couple other things like entrance the door locations are hard to change. Some means of access and improvement is really worthwhile effort in this phase. Some electric may be able to go floor as it reduces hangers, ladders etc. It's fast. Specially over big doors or long runs.
A few more ft of wire and pipe in a small garage, an extra circuit doesn't add up to much.