My Build: Simply a Mr. Jack Olsen inspired 1930 Auto Bunker House Geobarn Homage
- Thread starter flybefree
- Start date
SpeedinLemon
Well-known member
Hey Shaun...If it was me I'd go to the ceiling with the bathroom walls. I do like the idea of everything above the 8' height being made of some sort of translucent panel....a louvered panel of some kind might be cool too. Glad to hear news of the 6"FC...40" looks to be ready to take on the Big Bro role....is he excited?
"I already made my bed...you have pictures of me doing it!" I love it!
I think Ompha's little stinky monkey pooh emoticon convinced us to build the bath walls to the ceiling! The 42" FC is excited, on paper, about the new addition. In practice he still has to work hard at being kind to his current younger brother so I'm sure there will be adjustments...but he's a good big brother.
Shaun
Shaun
Omphaloskeptic
Well-known member
Hmmmm - I never thought those little monkeys would 'emote' so much that they could influence a design decision! lol
: 
: Wingnut65
Well-known member
Shaun, For the bathroom, yes put in a ceiling. But... For the walls, offset back 12-16" and then run all the way up. That will create a shelf across the front for putting cool stuff on display. Make the most of it. Put an access door from the end and use the ceiling space for storage.
BTW, I believe the bathroom ceiling with an exhaust fan will be required by code.
BTW, I believe the bathroom ceiling with an exhaust fan will be required by code.
Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
If the bathroom door is closed, very little cool air will get in there. Rather than adding a dedicated A/C unit to the bath, consider installing a quiet 12v muffin fan at the top of the bathroom (wall or ceiling). If you wire it to the thermostat, the fan would only turn on when the A/C turns on. The fan would move the warm air from the top of the bathroom into the air conditioned room and pull cool air through the open (or under the closed) bathroom door. Just a thought.
Wingnut65
Well-known member
Bob is right on having a little draw to circulate the air. Duct the fan to the outside and you won't need the filter for interior comfort.
I was going to suggest dropping a small duct to the bathroom with 25 cfm. That would not pull too much from the rest of the spaces covered by the mini-split.
I was going to suggest dropping a small duct to the bathroom with 25 cfm. That would not pull too much from the rest of the spaces covered by the mini-split.
Will do.
Just ordered some sealer from Legacy Industrial...I stained the shop floor last fall and now I am finally going to seal it properly. I went with their urethane top coat for better chemical resistance. I am a little nervous about putting that much product down by myself, but I'm sure it will be fine. If the weather cooperates this weekend I may just give it my best shot.
Shaun
Just ordered some sealer from Legacy Industrial...I stained the shop floor last fall and now I am finally going to seal it properly. I went with their urethane top coat for better chemical resistance. I am a little nervous about putting that much product down by myself, but I'm sure it will be fine. If the weather cooperates this weekend I may just give it my best shot.
Shaun
Let me give you my $.02 on a small bathroom A/C unit.
We originally had a single system heating/cooling the Asylum efficiency apartment in the main room, basically a window unit style. We also had the typical Broan light/fan combo in the bathroom. When the bathroom door was open, it was a comfortable temp in there. But when someone took a warm shower with the door closed, it became a sauna, even with the exhaust fan running. When there are visitors over, you basically need to get dressed in there too if you want some privacy from the others. This was just too uncomfortable for us and decided to do something about it.
The $100 we spent on that second small A/C unit for the bathroom was worth every penny. Now when you're taking a shower, you can crank that thing up and keep the mirrors from steaming up. It does a great job of pulling down the humidity and heat and you feel cool and refreshed when you jump out of the shower instead of starting to sweat again the second you step out. It also keeps someone's shower from heating up the rest of the place.
Keep in mind this is FL so cooling is our primary concern (really the only one), so YMMV a bit north of here.
We originally had a single system heating/cooling the Asylum efficiency apartment in the main room, basically a window unit style. We also had the typical Broan light/fan combo in the bathroom. When the bathroom door was open, it was a comfortable temp in there. But when someone took a warm shower with the door closed, it became a sauna, even with the exhaust fan running. When there are visitors over, you basically need to get dressed in there too if you want some privacy from the others. This was just too uncomfortable for us and decided to do something about it.
The $100 we spent on that second small A/C unit for the bathroom was worth every penny. Now when you're taking a shower, you can crank that thing up and keep the mirrors from steaming up. It does a great job of pulling down the humidity and heat and you feel cool and refreshed when you jump out of the shower instead of starting to sweat again the second you step out. It also keeps someone's shower from heating up the rest of the place.
Keep in mind this is FL so cooling is our primary concern (really the only one), so YMMV a bit north of here.
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Shopnut, going to meet with the contractor on SAT, going to put the bathroom walls to the ceiling and from thinking about it and the comments here I will put in a good exhaust fan...if it gets too sticky I will will be able to put in a window AC.
On a side note, going to look at a 24" metal shaper tomorrow after work...why?
1. It's the hugest piece of American Iron I can fit in my shop without going to steam power.
B. A metal shaper at work is as stately a machine as man has ever invented...it just oozes manifest destiny and industrial might.
C. I can buy one for a very reasonable amount and be absolutely assured that I will be the only kid on the block with a metal shaper.
D. Mrs. FBF said I could.
Shaun
On a side note, going to look at a 24" metal shaper tomorrow after work...why?
1. It's the hugest piece of American Iron I can fit in my shop without going to steam power.
B. A metal shaper at work is as stately a machine as man has ever invented...it just oozes manifest destiny and industrial might.
C. I can buy one for a very reasonable amount and be absolutely assured that I will be the only kid on the block with a metal shaper.
D. Mrs. FBF said I could.
Shaun
Oh, last thing. Going to get a pressure washer this weekend to have on hand for my concrete staining/sealing projects which will run for the next few weeks. Based upon my last misadventure I am thinking about buying this one: http://www.homedepot.com/Cleaning-P...splay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&storeId=10051
Please wave me off if I have lost my mind...I get 10% off at HD so I was looking to buy from them.
Shaun
Please wave me off if I have lost my mind...I get 10% off at HD so I was looking to buy from them.
Shaun
tinbender 66
Well-known member
Thanks FBF, I followed your link and ended up watching about an hour's worth of machining videos! I'm heading in the metal working direction also. I don't get along with that wood stuff so well. I keep watching CL for machines but haven't seen much yet. I did see a Bridgeport for $800 but I just missed it
.
That looks like the mother of all pressure washers!
.That looks like the mother of all pressure washers!
TB,
You are most welcome...as Wingnut says Youtube has been my "lunchtime learning" at work...amazing what you can learn on Youtube that is actually GOOD for you to learn.
I am a complete newb, but for some as yet unkown reason I decided about a year and half ago I wanted to be a (hobby) machinist. So I bought a lathe and read books and watched youtube videos to try and figure out how to make stuff...it has been really fun. I have made flashlights, plumb bobs, axle bushings, pens, etc. I stumbled upon the metal shaper looking at milling machines...MUCH cheaper...plus they are just plain cool. Honestly the only reason I don't have one right now is that getting one home is the hardest part...they are very heavy and the honda minivan is the biggest car we have.
Shaun
You are most welcome...as Wingnut says Youtube has been my "lunchtime learning" at work...amazing what you can learn on Youtube that is actually GOOD for you to learn.
I am a complete newb, but for some as yet unkown reason I decided about a year and half ago I wanted to be a (hobby) machinist. So I bought a lathe and read books and watched youtube videos to try and figure out how to make stuff...it has been really fun. I have made flashlights, plumb bobs, axle bushings, pens, etc. I stumbled upon the metal shaper looking at milling machines...MUCH cheaper...plus they are just plain cool. Honestly the only reason I don't have one right now is that getting one home is the hardest part...they are very heavy and the honda minivan is the biggest car we have.
Shaun
KPSquared
Well-known member
As far as the pressure washer goes, I've been hearing some really good things about the Subaru small engines. John Deere has started using them on some of the Deere branded air compressors and my local dealer has had very little problems and way better response to warranty issues then they were getting using Honda stuff.
I just noticed it was a while ago when you posted so you probably all ready bought it. Any progress on the Urethane Sealer? I'm about to pull the trigger on the same coatings you have. . . just have to make the decision on the stain.
I just noticed it was a while ago when you posted so you probably all ready bought it. Any progress on the Urethane Sealer? I'm about to pull the trigger on the same coatings you have. . . just have to make the decision on the stain.
DIY Flooring...the ectascy and the agony
Ok, I have been working overtime on getting the shop ready the last month or so. I have spent most of my time on the floor and it is has been an adventure. Right up front, I am doing this DIY and as an adult I have to expect that even with some experience (this is not the first epoxy I have done, but first clear on stain) there will be a learning curve and I have to be willing to take a little risk. So I am not complaining about the work I have had to put in to get things right. The pros would have got it right the first time, but for the savings I realized with my own sweat I am willing to cut myself some slack.
So. Stain went down last fall, then it got cold and I wanted to wait for better weather to continue. This meant I had to clean the floor twice. After my first experience cleaning with a cheap pressure washer I went out and bought a decent pressure washer at Home Depot…
View media item 18538The new pressure washer made quick work of the "recleaning" of the shop floor. I rinsed once, washed three times with floor cleaner, rinsed and let dry. Love that pressure washer.
View media item 18540
After I let the floor dry I applied the two-part epoxy base from Legacy Industrial. The weather was cool (60ish) and the humidity was high but below the 90% range so we went ahead and started painting.
View media item 18542
With my Dad helping and me mixing it only took about an hour to do the entire floor with the 18 inch roller...that thing rocks. Then, right before sundown we got a thunderstorm that dropped 2 inches or rain in an hour...it was a flipping deluge my men. Since we were near the limits of temp/humidity for curing the epoxy I went to bed very nervous. I woke up, went out side and saw this:
View media item 18546
and this:
View media item 18547and this:
View media item 18545
The epoxy was not only ugly, it was soft and uneven. I was sick to my stomach after all the work and prep I had put into this project. I was seriously bummed. I called Scotty at Legacy Industrial and he said be patient, it will probably all work out, just give it some time...so I closed the shop up and went back home to KY and did not touch it for two weeks.
Ok, I have been working overtime on getting the shop ready the last month or so. I have spent most of my time on the floor and it is has been an adventure. Right up front, I am doing this DIY and as an adult I have to expect that even with some experience (this is not the first epoxy I have done, but first clear on stain) there will be a learning curve and I have to be willing to take a little risk. So I am not complaining about the work I have had to put in to get things right. The pros would have got it right the first time, but for the savings I realized with my own sweat I am willing to cut myself some slack.
So. Stain went down last fall, then it got cold and I wanted to wait for better weather to continue. This meant I had to clean the floor twice. After my first experience cleaning with a cheap pressure washer I went out and bought a decent pressure washer at Home Depot…
View media item 18538The new pressure washer made quick work of the "recleaning" of the shop floor. I rinsed once, washed three times with floor cleaner, rinsed and let dry. Love that pressure washer.
View media item 18540
After I let the floor dry I applied the two-part epoxy base from Legacy Industrial. The weather was cool (60ish) and the humidity was high but below the 90% range so we went ahead and started painting.
View media item 18542
With my Dad helping and me mixing it only took about an hour to do the entire floor with the 18 inch roller...that thing rocks. Then, right before sundown we got a thunderstorm that dropped 2 inches or rain in an hour...it was a flipping deluge my men. Since we were near the limits of temp/humidity for curing the epoxy I went to bed very nervous. I woke up, went out side and saw this:
View media item 18546
and this:
View media item 18547and this:
View media item 18545
The epoxy was not only ugly, it was soft and uneven. I was sick to my stomach after all the work and prep I had put into this project. I was seriously bummed. I called Scotty at Legacy Industrial and he said be patient, it will probably all work out, just give it some time...so I closed the shop up and went back home to KY and did not touch it for two weeks.
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Then the sun rose on another day
After two weeks of curing the floor looked much better, almost pretty good except for about four areas with white spots that looked like "Salt" had been dropped in the Epoxy. Scotty said to just sand it off and reapply some epoxy. Since I had some extra from the first application I sanded off all the white spots:
IMG]http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=1275&pictureid=18549[/IMG]
View media item 18548
Then I scuffed the entire floor with my homemade scuffing block:
View media item 18550
Then I mopped the entire floor with denatured alcohol to clean up the dust:
View media item 18551
This was Easter weekend and it was in the fifties in Ohio with low humidity so I collected all the space heaters on the farm to ensure the curing process would not get boogered up this time as Dad once again helped paint:
View media item 18552
I didn't take any pictures of the second coat of epoxy, but it looked really good once it had cured...and my hopes soared...this was going to be smooth sailing from here on out!
After two weeks of curing the floor looked much better, almost pretty good except for about four areas with white spots that looked like "Salt" had been dropped in the Epoxy. Scotty said to just sand it off and reapply some epoxy. Since I had some extra from the first application I sanded off all the white spots:
IMG]http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=1275&pictureid=18549[/IMG]
View media item 18548
Then I scuffed the entire floor with my homemade scuffing block:
View media item 18550
Then I mopped the entire floor with denatured alcohol to clean up the dust:
View media item 18551
This was Easter weekend and it was in the fifties in Ohio with low humidity so I collected all the space heaters on the farm to ensure the curing process would not get boogered up this time as Dad once again helped paint:
View media item 18552
I didn't take any pictures of the second coat of epoxy, but it looked really good once it had cured...and my hopes soared...this was going to be smooth sailing from here on out!
Then we put down the Urethane top coat
View media item 18558
The Urethane is very thin, like water, and it was hard to put down a nice thin coat. It is very glossy and like any high gloss paint it takes much more skill to make perfect than a more satin finishing product. It took about 2 hours to put down the Urethane and there were some places where the product just didn't "stick" to the floor and instead beaded up:
View media item 18560
My Dad noticed this happening, and we went back and tried to roll out some of the beading, but it just pulled right back up into the prexisting beads as soon as we walked away. Luckily, this only happened on less than a 20% basis...but still, my heart sank a little.
But overall, man it looked good:
View media item 18559
Scotty at Legacy said I can sand out those beaded areas and reapply, I have extra product and I will try that fix next weekend. He said there was probably some contamination of some sort. I will report back on my fixing...but overall:
-Looks good, not perfect, but I really wanted a unique and inexpensive way to protect and "spiff up" my pad...I think I will get that. Now that I have the technique down the results can really be good.
- DIY comes with risks. Scotty at Legacy is very responsive and if it wasn't Easter Sunday I would have called him and prevented the "beading" issue. Having a real person you can speak with is important.
- The real test will be longevity, but for the price (Stain, Epoxy, Urethane) of about a $1 a square foot I could afford this and I could not afford to put down that much race deck or professionally applied epoxy.
- Clear over stain is a great look, but less forgiving than a solid epoxy...the curing issues would be less sensitive I think with a solid.
I am going to use Legacy products again, I have more concrete to take care of on the apron areas. Concrete is so expensive I can't just let it sit out there unprotected.
View media item 18554
And that is what I have been up to the last few weeks in the shop.
Shaun
View media item 18557
View media item 18558
The Urethane is very thin, like water, and it was hard to put down a nice thin coat. It is very glossy and like any high gloss paint it takes much more skill to make perfect than a more satin finishing product. It took about 2 hours to put down the Urethane and there were some places where the product just didn't "stick" to the floor and instead beaded up:
View media item 18560
My Dad noticed this happening, and we went back and tried to roll out some of the beading, but it just pulled right back up into the prexisting beads as soon as we walked away. Luckily, this only happened on less than a 20% basis...but still, my heart sank a little.
But overall, man it looked good:
View media item 18559
Scotty at Legacy said I can sand out those beaded areas and reapply, I have extra product and I will try that fix next weekend. He said there was probably some contamination of some sort. I will report back on my fixing...but overall:
-Looks good, not perfect, but I really wanted a unique and inexpensive way to protect and "spiff up" my pad...I think I will get that. Now that I have the technique down the results can really be good.
- DIY comes with risks. Scotty at Legacy is very responsive and if it wasn't Easter Sunday I would have called him and prevented the "beading" issue. Having a real person you can speak with is important.
- The real test will be longevity, but for the price (Stain, Epoxy, Urethane) of about a $1 a square foot I could afford this and I could not afford to put down that much race deck or professionally applied epoxy.
- Clear over stain is a great look, but less forgiving than a solid epoxy...the curing issues would be less sensitive I think with a solid.
I am going to use Legacy products again, I have more concrete to take care of on the apron areas. Concrete is so expensive I can't just let it sit out there unprotected.
View media item 18554
And that is what I have been up to the last few weeks in the shop.
Shaun
View media item 18557
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tinbender 66
Well-known member
The floor looks awesome!!!!
Omphaloskeptic
Well-known member
Shaun, it sounds like you did everything by the numbers and had some great help from your dad. Good to know you also were given sound advice by customer service. That contamination problem is a strange one; I wonder if your water chemistry needs to be checked? It might show that you have reactive minerals/chemicals in the water itself, but then again, those blemishes were limited to just a few areas, correct? The product data sheet calls for a minimum temperature/maximum humidity for air prior to application, but does it also state limits for the slab itself? I'm wondering if the blemishes occurred near expansion joint cuts? Would the rinse water temperature have cooled the slab or 'localized' a high humidity condition for the coating? The devil is in the details as they say. It might save you a re-coat on future applications if you are able to nail down the critical element of your method.
Just another quick thought, is it possible there is a chemical component in the stain that does not react with wash/rinse cycle, but does react with the topcoat chemistry? Do you need to do another neutralizer application on the stain prior to the wash/rinse cycle?
Good luck on the next application and keep us posted; great documentation!
P.S. - The floor color and finish really do look good (even with that big PINK door)! lol
Just another quick thought, is it possible there is a chemical component in the stain that does not react with wash/rinse cycle, but does react with the topcoat chemistry? Do you need to do another neutralizer application on the stain prior to the wash/rinse cycle?
Good luck on the next application and keep us posted; great documentation!
P.S. - The floor color and finish really do look good (even with that big PINK door)! lol
GirlnAgarage
Well-known member
That floor looks great!
You put the prep time in and that's most the battle. Looking forward to the long term wear. The more I see stained concrete the more I want to use it.
You put the prep time in and that's most the battle. Looking forward to the long term wear. The more I see stained concrete the more I want to use it.
Tinbender, Girl, Ompha...thanks, it is really beautiful when done right.
Ompha: The contanmination/beading is a mystery...localized by the pink door and not distributed in any sort of meaningful pattern. All sections were bone dry and all were shopvac'd and wiped with denatured alcohol...the pad and air were in the mid 60s and humidity was under 60% with the heaters going. You could tell in the first minute something was amiss. The stain was sealed under two coats of clear epoxy prior to putting down the top coat.
You are right on the money about the clouding in the first epoxy, the expansion joints were most likely acting as moisture "wells" and operating near the low end of the material's envelope put us behind the chemistry curve. The instructions do say you can apply on a damp pad...I should have known better. Amatures have no business pushing the edge of the envelope. I am actually relieved it was so easy to fix.
Shaun
Ompha: The contanmination/beading is a mystery...localized by the pink door and not distributed in any sort of meaningful pattern. All sections were bone dry and all were shopvac'd and wiped with denatured alcohol...the pad and air were in the mid 60s and humidity was under 60% with the heaters going. You could tell in the first minute something was amiss. The stain was sealed under two coats of clear epoxy prior to putting down the top coat.
You are right on the money about the clouding in the first epoxy, the expansion joints were most likely acting as moisture "wells" and operating near the low end of the material's envelope put us behind the chemistry curve. The instructions do say you can apply on a damp pad...I should have known better. Amatures have no business pushing the edge of the envelope. I am actually relieved it was so easy to fix.
Shaun
KPSquared
Well-known member
Oh man, the floor looks amazing. I've been waiting for you to get the top coat down and now that you have, I'm sold.
I've been hemming and hawing with the wife about the extra expense of the stain (I know it's only like $250 for me, but every buck counts) Now that I see the final product, I'm going for it. Found out I can ship stuff to the US border then my folks who only live a couple hours from the border can pick it up. Saves me close to 400 bucks. Again, every dollar counts. . .
Once again, looks amazing. Glad you got the majority of the flaws corrected. The aged look that the english red provided you is exactly what I'm going for. Now I just need a floor poured so I have something to stain and seal. . .
I've been hemming and hawing with the wife about the extra expense of the stain (I know it's only like $250 for me, but every buck counts) Now that I see the final product, I'm going for it. Found out I can ship stuff to the US border then my folks who only live a couple hours from the border can pick it up. Saves me close to 400 bucks. Again, every dollar counts. . .
Once again, looks amazing. Glad you got the majority of the flaws corrected. The aged look that the english red provided you is exactly what I'm going for. Now I just need a floor poured so I have something to stain and seal. . .
I think the fact that the issue occurred near the door indicates either a moisture issue, temperature issue or both.
BTW I've been following your saga and have enjoyed your posts very much and admire your perseverance through the floor issues. Best of luck with the new shop!
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FlyBeFree's Wife
Active member
Gentlemen, this was a serious labor of love!! He was out there well before the crack of dawn, and then well into the night after boys were in bed. I never had any doubts, but I sure am glad that it is (almost) over! I know his heart will not be into the home renovations until this shop is fixed up just right.
Omphaloskeptic
Well-known member
Mrs. FBF, sounds like he is blessed with a terrific support team (you); keep him fueled with coffee, sandwiches, and the all important words of encouragement!
Well there's that **** floor you were striving for. Man, that looks great!
Sorry to hear about your troubles, but the end result hopefully was worth it to you. We were able to drive our white blotches out with a heat gun about 1-2" from the surface, but we had much less sq footage than you to deal with. I was amazed the heat actually worked. Apparently, moisture can get trapped down in the concrete and the heat drives it down and out.
Now I know why you were so quiet lately. All's well that end well, right?
Sorry to hear about your troubles, but the end result hopefully was worth it to you. We were able to drive our white blotches out with a heat gun about 1-2" from the surface, but we had much less sq footage than you to deal with. I was amazed the heat actually worked. Apparently, moisture can get trapped down in the concrete and the heat drives it down and out.
Now I know why you were so quiet lately. All's well that end well, right?
My wife is quite a trooper...she has been an "epoxy floor widow" the last few weekends at the farm...could not have done it without her.
Shopnut, thanks friend, it has been worth it. I thought about the heat gun, but the four places that stayed white has completely dried, but there were hard white spots dried into the floor. It sanded out pretty easy so yeah, all's well that ends well. There is even more news coming this week...we have started to finish out the office/guest room next to the shop. Will post some pictures of the framing. Right now I am looking at mini-splits to put in there.
Shaun
Shopnut, thanks friend, it has been worth it. I thought about the heat gun, but the four places that stayed white has completely dried, but there were hard white spots dried into the floor. It sanded out pretty easy so yeah, all's well that ends well. There is even more news coming this week...we have started to finish out the office/guest room next to the shop. Will post some pictures of the framing. Right now I am looking at mini-splits to put in there.
Shaun
Our spots were down under the surface and the surface was shiny, so I guess it was a different situation than yours. I used the heat gun long after our had dried, however, so keep that in your back pocket in case some show up.
I can just about imagine how anxious you are to start filling the shop. Glad to hear you can put the floor behind you (or beneath you ) and are moving on to the office.
I can just about imagine how anxious you are to start filling the shop. Glad to hear you can put the floor behind you (or beneath you
) and are moving on to the office.Wingnut65
Well-known member
Re: Then we put down the Urethane top coat
Teamwork is what really make projects work. And this floor is Amazing! Congrats and working it out to get the results you want.
Wow!
Now it just needs a bird in there!
Teamwork is what really make projects work. And this floor is Amazing! Congrats and working it out to get the results you want.
Wow!
Now it just needs a bird in there!More progress! Things are picking up on the farm, all the corn has been planted, the shop floor is coming together and the walls are going up in the office.
View media item 18690
Putting a guest bed in the back corner, with the high ceilings we decided to keep the space more open by not taking the walls to the ceiling. Based upon the horrible image of Ompha’s pooping monkeys…and on advice of the plumber….we did run the bathroom walls to the ceiling.
View media item 18688
Ran a subpanel into the utility closet based upon the project load of the mini-split, fridge, water heater, lights, TV, and the like.
Shot of the dry wall going in the bath:
View media item 18691Shot of the “Hangar View Lounge”…window suggested by Shopnut I think…walls suggested by Ompha…design based upon thoughtful help of Wingnut…wow, I need to add you guys to my Christmas card list! Can’t wait to sit down with a cold Arnie Palmer in there.
View media item 18687Off topic…the 42” FC came to work with me today and helped out with some important national security work…just check out the thoughtful analysis he provided me on whether or not we should bomb the Iranian nuclear facilities. He basic premise, I believe, was that he thought the Iranians are not trying to build a bomb, but an arsenal, and a single airstrike would probably not do the trick. I quickly forwarded his comments to the POTUS. More to follow.
View media item 18689
View media item 18690
Putting a guest bed in the back corner, with the high ceilings we decided to keep the space more open by not taking the walls to the ceiling. Based upon the horrible image of Ompha’s pooping monkeys…and on advice of the plumber….we did run the bathroom walls to the ceiling.
View media item 18688
Ran a subpanel into the utility closet based upon the project load of the mini-split, fridge, water heater, lights, TV, and the like.
Shot of the dry wall going in the bath:
View media item 18691Shot of the “Hangar View Lounge”…window suggested by Shopnut I think…walls suggested by Ompha…design based upon thoughtful help of Wingnut…wow, I need to add you guys to my Christmas card list! Can’t wait to sit down with a cold Arnie Palmer in there.
View media item 18687Off topic…the 42” FC came to work with me today and helped out with some important national security work…just check out the thoughtful analysis he provided me on whether or not we should bomb the Iranian nuclear facilities. He basic premise, I believe, was that he thought the Iranians are not trying to build a bomb, but an arsenal, and a single airstrike would probably not do the trick. I quickly forwarded his comments to the POTUS. More to follow.
View media item 18689
tinbender 66
Well-known member
Ahh, forward progress! First the floor, now this. You're smokin'!! I think the FC might be on to something here.
Tinbender...I'm not exactly sure what he was talking about in his information paper...but apparently the dates 15 JAN and 15 MAR were VERY important. You notice my handwritten note in the upper left hand corner asking him to update his Powerpoint slides this week...got his work done early too!
Shaun
Shaun
Wingnut65
Well-known member
Great progress on all fronts. I can smell the cut lumber from here.
Not sure if the multiple March 15's really mean they should be added together and it may be March 30th? Just so long as the FC has everything under control, even the monkeys. With those early talents, just don't let him get near the checkbook...
Glad I could help out in the MBSAMr.JOI1930ABHGH!
EDIT: Shaun, In FC's sketch, I think I see the outline of a L-17 canopy...
Not sure if the multiple March 15's really mean they should be added together and it may be March 30th? Just so long as the FC has everything under control, even the monkeys. With those early talents, just don't let him get near the checkbook...
Glad I could help out in the MBSAMr.JOI1930ABHGH!
EDIT: Shaun, In FC's sketch, I think I see the outline of a L-17 canopy...
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Wow, FBF, I hadn't been back to this thread since you first posted your inspiration pic. It's come along really well. You've convinced me to go with stain in the areas I was considering epoxy. The look is terrific. I really like your approach to things. The rest should be great, I'll be following now.
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Yeah, I've actually had nightmares of Ompha's pooping monkey .
What are you going to do with all the space above the the guest bedroom? The mere thought of it going to waste is also giving me nightmares.
(maybe I just need an extra beer or two before bedtime)
.What are you going to do with all the space above the the guest bedroom? The mere thought of it going to waste is also giving me nightmares.
(maybe I just need an extra beer or two before bedtime)