The VISES of Garage Journal

[Rickenbackerman]

Hi,

This is my first post. It took me a while to read through all 300+ pages, but I can say you guys have successfully ruined me.

I just wanted a simple vise for a bench I built in my garage 2 months ago. I went out and bought one from a big box store, and then started reading here. Ugh. I returned the vise.

I have now acquired two vises in the past 2 months. See pictures. A new Yost 204, and a Chas Parker 205. The Yost I got for $90 brand new at Farmer's Choice. I believe they still have a bunch more in stock. The Chas Parker I picked up off CL local, and am in the process of trying to restore her. I do have a couple of questions, if you guys can help:

1. There is a fair bit of slop in the Parker. There is about 1" of space between the back of the main nut and the pin holding it in place. Is this typical?
2. The vise functions fine, but there may be a hairline crack in a part of the main nut. Too bad I couldnt see this when I bought it. I dont think this is fatal, but is it possible to buy another main nut from one of the manufacturers today making Yost, Columbian, Reed and replace?
3. Does anyone know what the screw is for these Parker vises? Is it Acme, or something else?

Thanks alot in advance. I am going through the electrolysis process, so I will post pictures when done and painted.

Cheers,
Ted

Welcome Ted! Nice job on ditching the junk and sourcing some good old US made Iron! I'm as not as knowledgeable as some on here, but I'll do my best.
1 - No, that is absolutely not normal. The pin should be right next to or very close to the back of the nut. If yours has that much of a gap, do you need to turn the handle 5 or 10 times to get the dynamic jaw to move? Remove the dynamic jaw and take some pictures back there so we can see what's going on.
2 - Next, remove the nut by punching the pin out from the bottom with a hammer and pin punch. Take some pics of the nut so we can see what it looks like and where the crack is. I'm suspecting you are missing some of the nut on yours, hence the gap.
3 - Should be acme, yes. Size depends on the size of the vise, though.

 

[Catalyze]

Noslo - very nice striping on the vise! It was worth the wait on painting it just to see such a nice outcome.

Bill - I have 2 Prentiss vises with the Gorilla Button base lock. One takes a pry bar and the other you can work with 2 fingers. I have sprayed lubricant down the hard one many times with barely an improvement. Since it doesn't get used, I just chalk it up to 100 years of grime down inside that can stay there.

Ted - Welcome! The above posted information is spot on. Do take a couple of photos of the nut so we can see what it looks like. The base of the nut should be right up next to that locating pin. Sad Panda time.....I don't know of any nuts that swap straight out to fit any of these old vises. Columbian....Wilton....Yost might fit their old vises but Parker is not one I know.
Craig

 

[454ragtop]

Like many here, vises are one of my vices. Have too many, but here are a few that I have pics handy. First is a baby bullet, on a power arm. Did a quicky restore on this one. Next is a like new craftsman, didn't need it, but it was in too nice of a shape to pass up. Then we have one of the coolest drill press vises I've ever seen, adjustable in every which way, swivel, tilt, roll, you name it. All movements are engraved with degree scales too, amazing quality, but no manufacturers name, strangely. Have to try to remember to take some pics of my bigger vises.
Jim

Any drill press vise images?

See my post on page 349 of this thread to see a couple pics of my multi axis drill press vise.
HTH, Jim

 

[amaes]

For the guys that media blast their vises. What type of media are you all using?

 

[Mohawk Dave]

For the guys that media blast their vises. What type of media are you all using?

My buddies company that do mine, DEVCO, use soda (like baking soda) and also glass bead-depending on material.

Neither are aggressive as most medias, esp. sand.

 

[Mark in Indiana]

For the guys that media blast their vises. What type of media are you all using?

I only sandblast areas that I plan to paint. So whatever is in the sandblaster at work is what I use. My guess is that it's a medium grit.

 

[amaes]

My buddies company that do mine, DEVCO, use soda (like baking soda) and also glass bead-depending on material.

Neither are aggressive as most medias, esp. sand.

I was thinking glass bread also. Now its a matter of trying to find a local source for some.

I only sandblast areas that I plan to paint. So whatever is in the sandblaster at work is what I use. My guess is that it's a medium grit.

interesting, so I take it that you just wire wheel everything else?

 

[Mohawk Dave]

interesting, so I take it that you just wire wheel everything else?

I've wire wheeled whole vises, kept one like that with clear coat, and the others painted. Wire wheel gets the slide clean, but not polished. One guy on here said he uses a belt sander on the slide. I was thinking a DA would be good too. I haven't done either yet as I am afraid of taking off too much material and allowing slop/play in the slide. Now that I think about it, a couple thousandths prob isn't enough to worry about. I'm prob over thinking it.

 

[amaes]

I've wire wheeled whole vises, kept one like that with clear coat, and the others painted. Wire wheel gets the slide clean, but not polished. One guy on here said he uses a belt sander on the slide. I was thinking a DA would be good too. I haven't done either yet as I am afraid of taking off too much material and allowing slop/play in the slide. Now that I think about it, a couple thousandths prob isn't enough to worry about. I'm prob over thinking it.

Yeah, I have Wire wheeled whole vises as well. Just did a Morgan last week. But I had a Starrett and a Fuller media blasted before in the past. I picked up a sand blasting cabinet for $15 the other day so trying to figure out a good all around media. Seems like Glass bead is what most people use after a bit of searching.

 

[C.BRAXMAIER]

Finished my C3 today,,,,,

 

[bluewater23t]

Welcome Ted! Nice job on ditching the junk and sourcing some good old US made Iron! I'm as not as knowledgeable as some on here, but I'll do my best.
1 - No, that is absolutely not normal. The pin should be right next to or very close to the back of the nut. If yours has that much of a gap, do you need to turn the handle 5 or 10 times to get the dynamic jaw to move? Remove the dynamic jaw and take some pictures back there so we can see what's going on.
2 - Next, remove the nut by punching the pin out from the bottom with a hammer and pin punch. Take some pics of the nut so we can see what it looks like and where the crack is. I'm suspecting you are missing some of the nut on yours, hence the gap.
3 - Should be acme, yes. Size depends on the size of the vise, though.

Thanks for the replies. Here are some more pictures as requested of the nut, in and out of the vise.

Yes- from the closed position, it does take a few turns of the handle to get the vise to open. As you can see, there is about an inch between the back of the main nut and the pin. There doesnt appear to be anything wrong with the dovetail slot where the main nut sits. The main nut also looks complete, with the exception of the slight hairline crack in the front part. I do not know the significance of the number stamped on the main nut, or if it is the original nut for this vise? If it is not the main nut that came with the vise originally, I can probably fashion something fit into the dovetail and prevent the nut from moving. Also open to suggestions.....

Thanks
Ted

 

[bluewater23t]

Noslo - very nice striping on the vise! It was worth the wait on painting it just to see such a nice outcome.

Bill - I have 2 Prentiss vises with the Gorilla Button base lock. One takes a pry bar and the other you can work with 2 fingers. I have sprayed lubricant down the hard one many times with barely an improvement. Since it doesn't get used, I just chalk it up to 100 years of grime down inside that can stay there.

Ted - Welcome! The above posted information is spot on. Do take a couple of photos of the nut so we can see what it looks like. The base of the nut should be right up next to that locating pin. Sad Panda time.....I don't know of any nuts that swap straight out to fit any of these old vises. Columbian....Wilton....Yost might fit their old vises but Parker is not one I know.
Craig

Thanks Craig. Regarding trying to find another main nut to fit, does anyone know for sure what thread-type is typical for Chas Parker vises? Actually, it almost looks like a square thread to me.

Here is a picture of the lead screw. It measures 7/8, and maybe 4 TPI? if I am reading this right. I have looked and Columbian 505-4 has a main nut that is 7/8-4 but its acme. I am trying to find out what Reed's main nut dimensions are. If the Chas Parker is not acme, then it's game over......but still worth a shot.

Thanks
Ted

 

[Recoil Rob]

Any drill press vise images?

Yankee 4993.

 

[Outlawmws]

Yankee 4993.

I like that. I have a Yankee 993, but its a std vise, no angle no swivel. (I do have a Stanley that swivels, but is not an angle vise)

 

[andywander]

Thanks for the replies. Here are some more pictures as requested of the nut, in and out of the vise.

Yes- from the closed position, it does take a few turns of the handle to get the vise to open. As you can see, there is about an inch between the back of the main nut and the pin. There doesnt appear to be anything wrong with the dovetail slot where the main nut sits. The main nut also looks complete, with the exception of the slight hairline crack in the front part. I do not know the significance of the number stamped on the main nut, or if it is the original nut for this vise? If it is not the main nut that came with the vise originally, I can probably fashion something fit into the dovetail and prevent the nut from moving. Also open to suggestions.....

Thanks
Ted

My Trojan (made by Parker) had the same thing, though not quite as large a gap between the nut and the pin as yours is showing. I made a little spacer(a round sleeve) that slipped over the pin to keep the nut in position.

 

[Catalyze]

Ted - your Parker is an Acme thread....I am worthless at determining Acme thread pitches, but either you can or a machine shop tell you what size it is.....a nice thing about American machinist vises is that they use Acme or in the case of some Athol vises they use a butress Acme thread

you probably would do well to repair the crack or better yet, figure out a replacement nut...once you figure out the thread pitch, give us a Columbian vise that uses the same thread and we can try to measure the size/dovetail etc for you if we have one
Craig

 

[HandsomeDan]

Just grabbed this.
New old stock. Needs to be greased pretty badly.
Main body reads 111092 and jaw reads 111093.

edit: I don't know anything about this thing.
If anyone has any info, I'd be glad to hear it.
I'm gonna buy new locknuts for it this weekend, i think.

 

[Mark in Indiana]

I was thinking glass bread also. Now its a matter of trying to find a local source for some.



interesting, so I take it that you just wire wheel everything else?

I first wire wheel and scotchbrite everything that stays bare metal, tape those surfaces and finish up with the sand blaster. All the bare metal surfaces end up clear coated except for the slide and jaw faces. Unfinished surfaces get a light coat of grease.

 

[Mark in Indiana]

Any drill press vise images?

This is my ENCO that I bought new back in the late 80s. Although it was made in Taiwan, it has done its job through the years. The only thing I had to do was replace the crappy screws that held the jaw faces and the end of the spindle.

 

[Catalyze]

After an electrolysis bath (if it is rusty), I just use a wire cup brush on a grinder. If it isn't rusty and just greasy, then it goes to the carwash for a powerwash of degreaser..then it gets the cup brush. I guess I like the cup brush and grinder almost as much as my meds.
Craig

 

[tool_scrounge]

Just grabbed this.
New old stock. Needs to be greased pretty badly.
Main body reads 111092 and jaw reads 111093.

edit: I don't know anything about this thing.
If anyone has any info, I'd be glad to hear it.
I'm gonna buy new locknuts for it this weekend, i think.

Wilton 744

Here is a link to more info
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=99975

 

[kapster]

Got my wilton 500 cleaned up, decided not to repaint it as i did find some paint under the crud. Gives it character half worn off.

I want to make some vise jaws. Whats the best route to go, serrated, smooth steel, brass? Thought about a quick change system but that might be overkill. What do you guys prefer? I do auto/ motorcycle and farm work. The serrated would be nice on farm stuff for the extra grip.

 

[Mark in Indiana]

Working on automotive, motorcycles and vises, I lean towards smooth jaw faces like on my Chas Parker. I keep sets of aluminum angle for the soft jaws. If I'm really concerned about scratching the work surface, I use some wood pieces or some rags to hold it in place.

 

[HandsomeDan]

Wilton 744

Here is a link to more info
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=99975

Cool, thanks!
I was looking through the current model line-up, and noticed it looked like a 744, but with no anvil.
I saw that the new ones are made in China, but this one is obviously stamped with their Chicago USA address, but I couldn't find any other markings.

 

[bluewater23t]

Ted - your Parker is an Acme thread....I am worthless at determining Acme thread pitches, but either you can or a machine shop tell you what size it is.....a nice thing about American machinist vises is that they use Acme or in the case of some Athol vises they use a butress Acme thread

you probably would do well to repair the crack or better yet, figure out a replacement nut...once you figure out the thread pitch, give us a Columbian vise that uses the same thread and we can try to measure the size/dovetail etc for you if we have one
Craig

Thanks Craig- I will pursue this. A Columbian 505/605 has a 7/8 4 TPI main nut. They state the threads are Acme. Struck-out with Morgan and still waiting to hear back from Reed. I could just order it, and it doesnt fit, back it goes. Talked to a machine shop. Yikes. Forget that route.....

 

[kukko]

Had a friend pick this up off a local (to him, about an hour from me) CL listing. Ad had the worst pics ever, and when I asked for better pics, they were better, but not by much. Regardless, I took a chance and it looks pretty decent in the pics my friend sent.
Parker 954. I think that's the number. My friend is out of town and the pic the seller sent me was kinda blurry. I'll have the vise in my possession pretty soon and will post better pics then.

 

[rtvinc]

check this one out...never seen one like it!

http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/tls/3618581545.html

 

[rtvinc]

here is the pic in case it goes away

 

[Mista M]

funny you posted that ^, was just looking at clist wondering what that was.

 

[rtvinc]

too bad you can't see the handle on the left

 

[kukko]

I've got one of those anvil vises, pics can be seen here http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2513672&postcount=5499 (page 275 & 276 of this thread for more info).

I'd love to sell it if anyone is interested. It's in eastern PA at the moment.

 

[Catalyze]

Ted - I have a Columbian 505 in the shop....give me a day or 3 and I will get you some photos and measurements for the main nut

One of our fellow Garage Journal machinists....Kevin....made a pair of Prentiss jaws to fit a Model 21 (5"). I installed them and here are the photos:
View media item 28609
View media item 28608
View media item 28610
As you can see (not to be confused with Oh Say Can You See)... they fit snug and are a thing of beauty. They actually fit better than my originals which of course are a bit "used". All the holes lined up and fasteners tucked down into the recesses perfectly. If you wanted the tops to stand higher, then you can just turn the faces and put the thick part to the top. How do those crazy machinists do such precise work? Oh yeah....they measure correctly the first time!
Craig

 

[bigcaddy]

I finally got some time to finish the detail paint on the Rock Island i've been working on.

Does anybody have any scans that gives the price of these things? The vise is dated 1944 and i'm curious to know what it cost around that time and how much it weighs. It is a solid little pig and looking at it gives me a hernia!!

 

[Low Friction]

I finally got some time to finish the detail paint on the Rock Island i've been working on.

Does anybody have any scans that gives the price of these things? The vise is dated 1944 and i'm curious to know what it cost around that time and how much it weighs. It is a solid little pig and looking at it gives me a hernia!!

Pretty Rock Island. I'm jealous. I'm on lookout for a nice ~6" RI w/ swivel base.

 

[fullthrottle24]

Ted - I have a Columbian 505 in the shop....give me a day or 3 and I will get you some photos and measurements for the main nut

One of our fellow Garage Journal machinists....Kevin....made a pair of Prentiss jaws to fit a Model 21 (5"). I installed them and here are the photos:
View media item 28609
View media item 28608
View media item 28610
As you can see (not to be confused with Oh Say Can You See)... they fit snug and are a thing of beauty. They actually fit better than my originals which of course are a bit "used". All the holes lined up and fasteners tucked down into the recesses perfectly. If you wanted the tops to stand higher, then you can just turn the faces and put the thick part to the top. How do those crazy machinists do such precise work? Oh yeah....they measure correctly the first time!
Craig

Man, those are pretty. I like the black and white too.

 

[KMScott]

One of our fellow Garage Journal machinists....Kevin....made a pair of Prentiss jaws to fit a Model 21 (5"). I installed them and here are the photos
As you can see (not to be confused with Oh Say Can You See)... they fit snug and are a thing of beauty. They actually fit better than my originals which of course are a bit "used". All the holes lined up and fasteners tucked down into the recesses perfectly. If you wanted the tops to stand higher, then you can just turn the faces and put the thick part to the top. How do those crazy machinists do such precise work? Oh yeah....they measure correctly the first time!
Craig

Thanks Craig, and thanks for trying them out for me. I just can not afford to purchase all the vises. I did not mention to you but I made the thicker side so the vise owner could use a hand grinder/ belt sander to match the radius on the vise to the jaws. Matching the radius is not impossible and actually pretty easy with the right software but it would drive up the cost of the jaws. Thanks again and I will add these to my wiltonviseparts.net site soon.

Kevin

 

[Tindjin]

Anyone know something about this vise? value? replaceable jaws?
http://albuquerque.craigslist.org/tls/3621062306.html

I'm looking for something a little heavier and finding vise's in my neck of the woods is turning out to be a pain in the ****.

 

[I van putski]

Yes. I have one. It is not heavily duty. Probably weighs less than twenty pounds. It was sold at Montgomery wards. It's a nice little vise. I have mine mounted in my basement just because I thought it was cool looking. It will not do for a your main garage vise.

It is a twenty dollar vise.

 

[ricleh]

My Wilton vises

The cream of the crop. I beat the hell out of this cheap Chinese vise for many years.

 

[TerryH]

Wow!!! ^^^^^ Those are awesome!!!