Recommend a car that is easy to work on
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PeteW
Well-known member
mid 90's or newer honda cars are really easy to work on
GDA
Well-known member
late model 1989 to 1991 BMW E30 325i or 318i
+1 on 1991 to 1993 honda accord or civic
+1 on 1991 to 1993 honda accord or civic
sammerdog
Banned
I'm with wrenchr here - grab a mid 90's half ton pick up. GM (occasional rear end prob) or Ford (alignments and watch out for ****** issues). Grab one with either a 4.3 or the 300 and you'll have more elbow room under there. OE and aftermarket parts for both are dirt cheap and available almost anywhere.
Above all, remember the KISS method - Keep It Simple Stupid. No electric windows, no electronic dash ****, no controls in the steering wheel, 2 wheel drive. Think basic.
Above all, remember the KISS method - Keep It Simple Stupid. No electric windows, no electronic dash ****, no controls in the steering wheel, 2 wheel drive. Think basic.
krusty the clown
Member Emeritus
honda's are bringing insane money. an early 90's with 200,000 mi's are running 4 to 5 grand. i'd be looking at an ******, other than timing belts not much ever goes wrong.
peter_x
Well-known member
I can't quite agree. Numerous ground/instrument panel or other dash issues necessitate removal of large parts of dash. Rust problems. Timing belt every 60k. Interference engine. Might be hard to smog depending on state. Automatic transmission models refered to as "autotragic". Manual trans models develop slop in linkage (not a simple task to rebuild). That's just what I remember from the top of my head.
edit: Just remembered... seats expensive to reupolster, and most of the leather ones look horrendous by now. Cheaper to get aftermarket ones. Dashboard invariably develops cracks.
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It looks like American cars will be cheaper to fix and used Janpanese cars are over-priced.
I heard Buick is reliable, is that true?
Thanks.
I heard Buick is reliable, is that true?
Thanks.
tatra
Well-known member
maybe a price range could help to determine what you may want............i'm partial to subarus..........only owned a beater but others i know who own them swear by them..................
speed bump
Well-known member
I hate them with a passion but mid 80s Chrylser stuff like lasers abd daytonas seem to do pretty well. We have one as kind of a pass around the kids car and other than fixing the stuff that rotted from sitting in a field for 10 years, rebuilding the front end after my sister kissed a pickup with it and putting a new cat on it its hasn't needed anything other than wear parts. I wouldn't dare buy one with an automatic though as they tend to be one of those Chrylser common wear items.
If it was me I would be looking I would be looking for a early 90s f-150 4x2 with a 300 a 5 speed. Pretty darn well built trucks that get over 20mpg.
If it was me I would be looking I would be looking for a early 90s f-150 4x2 with a 300 a 5 speed. Pretty darn well built trucks that get over 20mpg.
Phatsub
Well-known member
My Wife has an 03 Buick Century that has had no issues at all except for a window regulator. All I've had to do is change it's oil, that's it.
krusty the clown
Member Emeritus
be carefull with the m5od trans, they are prone to leaks and many are worn out due to being run low on fluid. most times the rear bearing will have spun in the case and will not be able to be repaired. the last one i looked for was $800 well used. i think an aode trans would be the better choice.
Fedwrench
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I'd go for a Buick century,regal,or Chevy Impala. They're fairly easy to work on. Parts are plentiful and cheap. Your results may vary.
Yes Buicks / olds / chevy with the 3.8 liter V6.
My F150 has the AOD trans.
Remember Suburus and BMW's lets just say foreign cars are going to cost quite a bit to repair!! My wife's friend has a 98 bug with alot of issue's and every part cost's quite a bit more than domestic stuff.
krusty the clown
Member Emeritus
the aod is the early version. the aode is electronicaly shifted other than that they are basically the same. i just automaticaly put the e on there since it's been a while since i worked on one!
a 96 and up s10.... cheap parts... i have a 2000 s10 laying around for parts, complete.... but instead of getting another s10, I bought a new silverado in 2005 so the parts aren't the same, but still waiting for the day I put the engine and ****** into a stock 48 gmc half ton 5 window pickup I have....
speed bump
Well-known member
I prefer the ZFs, but I know a few people with piles of ZFs and M5s so if something ever happens transmission wise with those I can get spares cheaply.
I personally dislike the AOD trans though
posaune
Well-known member
I find it crazy that nobody else has mentioned these, but what about RWD Volvos? As long as you stay with the redblock (slant 4 - turbo or not), they have to be about the easiest cars ever to work on. Parts seem to be MUCH cheaper than other European makes too.
I learned most of what I know about repairing cars by trial and error on a '90 240 wagon and I finally got rid of it (due only to rust issues) at 315,000mi. My wife's current '92 240 wagon has over 250k mi on it and she drives it 104mi per day.
The only things that are really labor intensive on these would be the heater core on 200 series, 700 series and 900 series and the blower motor on 200 series. Rust and 1980-1987 or so wiring harnesses are the only big things to watch out for when buying.
And the best thing about them? In most parts of the country they sell for pennies, especially 700 series cars.
I learned most of what I know about repairing cars by trial and error on a '90 240 wagon and I finally got rid of it (due only to rust issues) at 315,000mi. My wife's current '92 240 wagon has over 250k mi on it and she drives it 104mi per day.
The only things that are really labor intensive on these would be the heater core on 200 series, 700 series and 900 series and the blower motor on 200 series. Rust and 1980-1987 or so wiring harnesses are the only big things to watch out for when buying.
And the best thing about them? In most parts of the country they sell for pennies, especially 700 series cars.
J.A.F.E.
Well-known member
My wife drives a 97 Regal with the 3.8L. It has been very reliable, parts are very reasonable even from the dealer. She is very hard on cars and it has held up well to her driving style. However, like all transverse front drivers some maintenance access is limited. We have owned it since new and I have done everything since the warranty expired. I like that its a pushrod engine and doesn't have timing belt/chain issues. I also like that it is a cast iron block/heads. Expect some minor oil leaks. All of the W body cars (Regal, Lumina, Cutless Supreme, Grand Prix) are pretty much the same except for trim and and interior appointments.
I also like the older Rangers. If you can get the V6 pushrod (not SOHC) I would highly recommend that also. The 4 is a little docile for my taste.
~Steve
Guy I know has done this for decades, buys low mileage well maintained 5 or so year old Cadillacs, does nothing but change oil on them until they break, then buys a another one.
You might want to skip over anything made by Porsche.
I think the real key is to have a good mechanic check out any car before you buy it, and avoid the known lemons, but what about buying a car you like and just deal with repairs?
You might want to skip over anything made by Porsche.
I think the real key is to have a good mechanic check out any car before you buy it, and avoid the known lemons, but what about buying a car you like and just deal with repairs?
lolstrizzy
Well-known member
Picked up a cheap 98 F150 myself, 4.3L, 5 speed, 2 wheel drive, 30K miles, no rust, for almost 3 grand. I can get 22mpg with the thing and its got a lot of miles left in it, have 60k now in a little over a year. Only problem I had was with the brakes, but that was an easy fix.
If you can find one, the Toyota T-100 4x4 is a dream to work on. The engine compartment is cavernous and they are bullet proof.
Brad
OctaneMotorsports
Well-known member
MKIII Volkswagen Golf or Jetta... doesn't get much easier.
The jeep grand cherokee with the 4.0 is a dream to work on, everything is right out in the open. A blazer with a 4.3 is one of the more difficult vehicles I have worked on. In cars, I usually look under the hood to see what things look like before I even consider buying something. Most things with 4 cyl's are fairly simple.
Cars with standard I-4 but equipped with optional V6, or those with standard V6, but equipped with optional V8 must be nightmare.
IMHO, one of the best cars ever made was the 96-2000 Chevy Lumina with 3.1 V6. Unfortunately, 2000 was the last year made.
Easy to work on under the hood. The biggest issue with these was the lower intake manifold was prone to leak coolant into the engine due to crappy factory gaskets. This caused engine failure if not corrected. I've seen the 3.1s go to 200,000 miles. They do have a tendancy for piston slap at start up, but not a big problem.
Try to find one from a little old lady with less than 100,000 miles....
Good MPG, 26 on hwy, 22 around city.
Easy to work on under the hood. The biggest issue with these was the lower intake manifold was prone to leak coolant into the engine due to crappy factory gaskets. This caused engine failure if not corrected. I've seen the 3.1s go to 200,000 miles. They do have a tendancy for piston slap at start up, but not a big problem.
Try to find one from a little old lady with less than 100,000 miles....
Good MPG, 26 on hwy, 22 around city.
davestlouis
Well-known member
I'm partial to manual transmissions because a clutch is a hell of a lot cheaper to replace than an automatic ******, but using a clutch in rush hour traffic gets old real quick. 4 cylinder Accords and Camrys are my catch-all recommendation for non-car people, if you can do your own repairs, I like 80's era BMW's, mainly 5-series cars...a 528e will get 28MPG if you drive it gently, and will go 300K very readily.
GDA
Well-known member
Interesting. I've owned 2 and been around another for the past ten years and havent encountered the issues you mention. They were all 5 speeds so your comment on the auto is probably correct.
Yes, you have to do timing belts on them but thats not a hard job and the suspensions and other stuff just seems easy to work on from my point of view. Maybe owning Land Rovers and BMW motorsport cars has tainted my perspective a bit on what is easy to work on.
OP - I owned a 1993 Accord for a couple years. Great car and very stout. You really cant go wrong there except for a higher entry price to pick one up.
I will never buy a car with a motor NOT poinitng straight ahead.
Front wheel drive car trans repairs are $$$$BTDT
I would suggest manual trans, straight six or v6 with TBI or TPI injection.
Older Chevy trucks, S10, GMC etc.
BMWs E 36 ( E 30s too) up to 98 are simple and reliable and the motors are cast with high nickel steel and prone to many miles before overhaul is needed.
Older Mercedes Benz 123 series.. you still see them on the road cause they last.
I have 2- 76 Land Cruisers Manual trans
81 Mercedes Benz diesel 3 speed manual
Chevy 4.3 1/2 ton pickup ..........all motors point straight ahead and manual trans . When was the last time you heard of a manual trans going out?
FJ40 Cruisers and 123 Mercedes diesel ... Two of the cars you will see in Heaven
Front wheel drive car trans repairs are $$$$BTDT
I would suggest manual trans, straight six or v6 with TBI or TPI injection.
Older Chevy trucks, S10, GMC etc.
BMWs E 36 ( E 30s too) up to 98 are simple and reliable and the motors are cast with high nickel steel and prone to many miles before overhaul is needed.
Older Mercedes Benz 123 series.. you still see them on the road cause they last.
I have 2- 76 Land Cruisers Manual trans
81 Mercedes Benz diesel 3 speed manual
Chevy 4.3 1/2 ton pickup ..........all motors point straight ahead and manual trans . When was the last time you heard of a manual trans going out?
FJ40 Cruisers and 123 Mercedes diesel ... Two of the cars you will see in Heaven
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