The VISES of Garage Journal

[KMScott]

PGH: here is a picture or two of the bottom of my slide on the dynamic jaw of the LMV vise i own. since i don't have a vise nut for it yet i'm exploring other options on maybe using a screw and nut from another big Reed i own with a bad jaw. I was happy to see your screw protruding and what kind of nut I might be looking for. if i remember correctly my screw is 1.125 so not a common size. another option i thought might work would be to grab a screw, vise nut and retainer from a Parker and drill and tap a hole in the front of the dynamic jaw. i do like this big vise and i think there was only one other one mentioned on all the Garage Journal threads.

what do you think my other options are?

I have something that might work, remember I asked a while back what is your thread size. I have a 1-1/8:2-1/2 pitch square or acme nut. I just uncovered it last week in my stock pile. The mat is one inch squares. Dean see if this will work for you. Looks like it came from a large Colombian. If the threads match then this nut can be made to work for you.


Oldie, I have two sisters and you my friend are my adopted brother. Thanks for the call brother.

 

[oldldh]

Grey haired guys have to stick together...

After all, where would "Adult Supervision" come from...

Your parts stash will enable the "rebirth" a bunch of old iron...

Ya Dun Gud, Bubba!!!

 

[Clik]

I've never read the inventor's patent descriptions of enclosed slide vises, but thinking like the employer that I was, who tried to buy idot proof equipment: A nice big flat exposed slide is just begging for a gorilla with a hammer to use it as an anvil. An enclosed slide is better on a truck bumper because it is better protected from the elements and that includes road dust sticking to a greased threaded rod. I can see why Wiltons were popular with mobile welding companies and pipe fitting firms.

Quality is quality, regardless of type. With regards to application, a formed metal vice will take a beating whereas a cast one won't, (hence why leg vices were forged and not cast), but they both will perform fine within their scope and limits. If you want a vice to hold something whilst you attempt to beat it to death, you want a blacksmiths vice, either leg or bench mount. Formed metal vices are next inline with cast being last choice.

However, a vice is a holding tool, not a forming tool.

 

[PghJKB]

Fretters: i agree with the search and rescue theory and wake up every day with that in mind for a few things. i was just saying it would be nice to have a company start (or continue if they already are) making old US style and quality vises so some of the guys with no time to search can have one. also so the younger generations could be talking about these great old vises made in the US in 2014 fifty and a hundred years from now that their grand dads bought new.

PGH: here is a picture or two of the bottom of my slide on the dynamic jaw of the LMV vise i own. since i don't have a vise nut for it yet i'm exploring other options on maybe using a screw and nut from another big Reed i own with a bad jaw. I was happy to see your screw protruding and what kind of nut I might be looking for. if i remember correctly my screw is 1.125 so not a common size. another option i thought might work would be to grab a screw, vise nut and retainer from a Parker and drill and tap a hole in the front of the dynamic jaw. i do like this big vise and i think there was only one other one mentioned on all the Garage Journal threads.

what do you think my other options are?

drivesitfar
Think I would determine the screw type and size - most likely Acme, but they could be square. See

http://tricksuse.blogspot.com/2012/09/what-is-difference-between-square.html
and
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leadscrew

Oh yeah, I would use a thread gage to measure the screw, it may be OCD, but the better the measure the less chance for problems later.

Buy a nut of appropriate size, drill and tap for a set screw. I have a no weld policy, nothing irreversible. For Acme nuts you can try McMaster - http://www.mcmaster.com/#general-purpose-acme-nuts/=rk5x3t

A quick and dirty would be to use a collar with a set screw like Reed did before their "R" series vises. - Your Parker solution.

JKB

 

[Charles Waugh]

My Bowling Ball Vise Mount

I finally got my bowling ball vise mount built:
https://vimeo.com/92159860

I've got my 3" Wilton on it in the video, but the top plate has 1/2-13 holes in it so I can mount anything up there quickly and easily.

This was an absolutely required project that I simply had to build - if I didn't, my sanity would have suffered an irreparable blow.

Charles

 

[drivesitfar]

KM: I'll send you a PM and maybe that old Columbian might have a new home. this LM&V vise i own has a very challenging way to install that nut because i have to put it inside the dynamic jaw and on the screw before i screw it in place and pin it from underneath. unless there is an easier method?

Outlaw: thanks for the idea and i was hoping my 75 year old past owner might find the original nut in his Father in Law's stuff. with the pin rusted in place that holds the vise nut in place and the damage to the handle i have my doubts it is still in one piece. Kevin's nut might work or we'll go to plan B.

here are the "little" screw's measurements. it is a mere 27 inches long, 1.125 inches in diameter and there are 4 threads per inch. the channel for the base of the vise nut is exactly 4 inches long.

i thought i'd shoot a couple pictures of my LMV screw alongside my Rock Island 577's screw and the Rock Island vise weighs in at about 170 pounds. as you can see the Rock's screw is a couple inches shorter and it is an inch in diameter.

PGH: thanks for the links and the ideas. I learned something else so another good day already.

I started a thread on this vise and was waiting for maybe a parts vise or something to tell me how to fix it and i think the American Chain vise with the bolt on the back of the dynamic jaw may just have this old girl working again.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=242719&page=3

thanks again guys

Charles: that is one fine way to mount a vise and feel free to add it to a thread i started showing vise stands. i'm not sure i would put all my weight on the little Wilton's jaw, but it worked and I bet Wilton might want to buy that video from you. nice work and again welcome to GJ

 

[GETRIDAONE]

It's the SUPER SIZE POW-R-ARM

 

[FMC1959]

That is a pretty cool setup you made, but holy ****, what is that humungous vise to right?

 

[Nightshift]

Re: My Bowling Ball Vise Mount

I finally got my bowling ball vise mount built:
https://vimeo.com/92159860

I've got my 3" Wilton on it in the video, but the top plate has 1/2-13 holes in it so I can mount anything up there quickly and easily.

This was an absolutely required project that I simply had to build - if I didn't, my sanity would have suffered an irreparable blow.

Charles

Awesome Charles. That thing rocks! Now are you gonna show us your cool pedal-clamping mechanism so we can all build one of these (that like you, we'll probably rarely use)

Well done and cheers, Bill

 

[Charles Waugh]

That monster vise next to the bowling ball mount is the Parker 436 (if my memory serves) - it's 185 pounds.

I'll get some more pics and vids up soon on the locking mechanism - it's cobbled together out of stuff i had kicking around.

Cheers!

Charles

 

[Nightshift]

I'll get some more pics and vids up soon on the locking mechanism - it's cobbled together out of stuff i had kicking around.

Cheers! Charles

Much appreciated Charles. I have a smaller bowling ball (6" I think) that I am considering for the project.

 

[roma042987]

wilton c2

before



after

 

[Charles Waugh]

Some DETAILS on the BOWLING BALL vise mount thingy

https://vimeo.com/92183214

Feel free to fall asleep during this awesome video.

Charles

 

[McBrownie]

That monster vise next to the bowling ball mount is the Parker 436 (if my memory serves) - it's 185 pounds.

I'll get some more pics and vids up soon on the locking mechanism - it's cobbled together out of stuff i had kicking around.

Cheers!

Charles

We MUST see the 436 on the bowling ball. Then clamp a tree in it.

 

[McBrownie]

wilton c2

before



after

Tell us about the paint. That looks great. Nice job!

 

[roma042987]

Tell us about the paint. That looks great. Nice job!

Thanks! The vise was stripped two coats of por15 and then a top coat of rustoleum "italian olive"

 

[Nightshift]

Re: Some DETAILS on the BOWLING BALL vise mount thingy

https://vimeo.com/92183214

Feel free to fall asleep during this awesome video.

Charles

Well done Charles. Just one question ... are those old brake rotors you are using for the top and bottom friction plates? Bill

 

[McBrownie]

Thanks! The vise was stripped two coats of por15 and then a top coat of rustoleum "italian olive"

Por15 primer, paint, or both?

 

[Restore B4 Paying More]

I recently acquired a Wilton vise that was my grandpa's. The metal bar on the Dynamic jaw is bent as if he pounded on something hard while the vise's jaws were open. Can someone tell me how to bend it back straight? I don't want to just bang more onto it and mess it up if that's not the correct way to straigten it. All tips or info is appreciated.

 

[Nightshift]

I recently acquired a Wilton vise that was my grandpa's. The metal bar on the Dynamic jaw is bent as if he pounded on something hard while the vise's jaws were open. Can someone tell me how to bend it back straight? I don't want to just bang more onto it and mess it up if that's not the correct way to straigten it. All tips or info is appreciated.

Best if you can show us a picture of the issue so we can see what you mean. Bill

 

[McBrownie]

Palmgren 300 Air Vise on CL

http://cleveland.craigslist.org/tls/4401211041.html

Cool vise and a great way to quickly smash a finger or two! gives new meaning to the term "pinch point".

 

[bigcaddy]

wilton c2

before



after

What did you do to the jaws? They look like they are made of brass.

 

[oldldh]

Palmgren 300 Air Vise on CL

http://cleveland.craigslist.org/tls/4401211041.html

Cool vise and a great way to quickly smash a finger or two! gives new meaning to the term "pinch point".

That is a serious walnut cracker!!!

 

[Restore B4 Paying More]

This is the picture of the bent vise.

 

[Fretters]

What did you do to the jaws? They look like they are made of brass.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=244526

 

[Fretters]

This is the picture of the bent vise.

That's some bend. Heat and a press will be the best way of sorting that.

 

[drivesitfar]

McBrownie: thanks for sharing the craigslist for the serious pincher. once the ad expires the picture is gone so might want to just copy and paste the picture if possible.

Restore: that is a serious bend and i'm amazed it didn't break. once the metal surgeons chime in i'm guessing heat and another vise might be involved with the fix and in the future hammering on a vise is not a good method of the fix.

 

[Outlawmws]

That one your best shot is to get it in a press and try to straighten it. If it breaks the slide, I'd make a new one from bar stock, and press/weld it into the jaw. The current bar is either cast in place when the jaw was made, or was pressed in place.

 

[Restore B4 Paying More]

I'll give it a shot and post how it goes. Thanks Guys.

 

[McBrownie]

McBrownie: thanks for sharing the craigslist for the serious pincher. once the ad expires the picture is gone so might want to just copy and paste the picture if possible.

Good point and thanks for posting one for me.

 

[Clik]

Put it a big vise and press it straight SLOWLY with mild heat (not enough to show color). You may have to shim it to bend it slightly past straight (picture laying a bar accross two cinder blocks and standing on it to straighten it) as it will spring back a teeny bit. Dont get it hot enough to take any temper out, if there ever was any.

Just my two cents.

I recently acquired a Wilton vise that was my grandpa's. The metal bar on the Dynamic jaw is bent as if he pounded on something hard while the vise's jaws were open. Can someone tell me how to bend it back straight? I don't want to just bang more onto it and mess it up if that's not the correct way to straigten it. All tips or info is appreciated.

 

[Charles Waugh]

Re: The Bowling Ball Vise Mount

McBrownie,
It sounds like you just want to get me into trouble.
And... it may be the kind of trouble that I like!


(BTW: how big a tree should it be?)


Nightshift (Bill),
Yes, those are rotors from my 1996 Jaguar XJ6-L. In anticipation of this project, I had the mechanic give them to me when I had the brakes redone. I whacked the center off of one of them (the top one) and then cut the slot in the side.

 

[taumac]

Palmgren 300 Air Vise on CL

http://cleveland.craigslist.org/tls/4401211041.html

Cool vise and a great way to quickly smash a finger or two! gives new meaning to the term "pinch point".

That's interesting....



Have a good one, Gerard

Florida GJers ( FGJ)
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/group.php?groupid=117

The 5 Stitches Garage
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=211899

 

[Provincial]

drivesitfar, that photo in post #15352 comparing the two lead screws caught my eye. The screw for the LMV vise is much larger than the Rock Island, but it also has a much faster pitch to the threads! One turn of the handle will move the jaw much further than the RI, so the maker chose to sacrifice clamping pressure for speed of adjustment.

I can't tell from the photo what the thread form is. It appears to have a fairly sharp top to the threads, and the face of the threads appears to be tapered on both sides. It doesn't look like an Acme thread because of the sharp tops, and it isn't a Buttress thread because the threads are tapered on both front and back.

It certainly is an interesting design!

 

[LShee778]

I need some help identifying this vice. Any ideas from the gurus? I have no idea about where it came from. I acquired it from a flea market and didn't get any background on it. No markings from what I can see.

 

[bl00]

That might be a Millers Falls. Most manufacturers a hundred years ago were using round knobs on the front and on the handle ends. Millers Falls had a lot of vises with cylinders instead of round knobs. Here are two that are similar to yours.

 

[drivesitfar]

Lshee: it has the same handle as my LM & V vise i just posted. it also looks like the main screw is bolted on the end like mine should be and PGH's he just posted a couple days ago. can you take a couple pictures of the back so we can see how it is bolted and also some with the jaws open?

are those homemade jaws taken off easily because it doesn't look like the vise needs them to work correctly. or the original ones might have broken off and these were the owner's idea of a good fix.

B100 might be wright, but the Millers Falls vise doesn't look like the screw is bolted behind the dynamic jaw. there have been quite a few vises that were made with no name on them because i think the makers let the stores put their own labels on them which probably were not meant to last 100 years.

Provincial: you are right about the size of the threads being a lot bigger on my LM & V screw. i'll clean it up with a wire wheel to get the dirt and old dried grease off of it and take a better picture and try to find some of my thread pitch gauges that i think are buried in a box somewhere.

 

[GETRIDAONE]

I looked at the handle end and thought Miller Falls because of our RR vises. They didn't like putting the name on the vise either ?

 

[wrenchguy]

Re: Good morning with a Rigid 80SN vise, aka my vice.

Good morning with a Rigid 80SN vise, aka my vice.
Thanks 4 looking.

 

[KMScott]

We have been talking about spindle nuts and threads lately and I wanted to add a few examples of thread types and a few pictures. In the early years of lead screws the threads were cut with no side angle and were called square threads. These are hard to make because you have to use a straight cutter not like the 29 degree threads of today, this created finish problems while machining. If they made dies then these would have plenty of tool pressure also. If the thread has a side angle then every time you take a cut the sides and bottom are machined. Giving you a cleaner thread.

Athol/Starrett did things right, they used a Buttress thread in their design, as you can see in the picture the thread is backed up with more steel and this makes for a very strong thread, little or no strength is needed to open your vise.

Some Spindles use a double thread. The Vise makers did this so the vise moves very quickly, you can see two starting points 180 degrees off from each other if you really look. My example would fool you thinking it was a 5/8:6 but it is really a 5/8:3 double start. Just looking at the thread you can see a difference, Chas Parker did not cut the acme thread while making their double thread design. Chas Parker is the only one I have seen do this so far.

I added a Rock Island Spindle, it was screwed up while making the thread, they still used it. I am not impressed with the few Rock Island vises I own.

So when you buy a vise with a missing nut or Spindle it may not be as easy to repair or find the parts unless you have access to a machine shop that is well equipped.