HF Earthquake 3/8" impact wrench

[mrbreezeet1]

The Klutch impacts are nice, They have a warranty that is hard to beat. They offer 24mo parts/12mo replacement and Northern tool offers an extended two year "Accidental Damage Replacement Plan" for $19.99.

So for $90 you get a composite body, 70-320ft lb, 3/8" impact, with a 1 year OEM bumper to bumper warranty, A two year no questions asked warranty. And a OEM two year warranty on parts.

I almost ordered that Klutch too.
Hate to say, but I really didn't do my homework on the Air Cat.
What is there warranty. any Idea?

Looked around Lowes last night, looked at the Kobalt $50.00 3/8" impact they have , looks handsome in the picture, but I wasn't all that impressed with the look or the feel of it.
Hopefully I will like the Air Cat.

 

[RangerDaleXp]

I almost ordered that Klutch too.
Hate to say, but I really didn't do my homework on the Air Cat.
What is there warranty. any Idea?

Looked around Lowes last night, looked at the Kobalt $50.00 3/8" impact they have , looks handsome in the picture, but I wasn't all that impressed with the look or the feel of it.
Hopefully I will like the Air Cat.

The kobalt works OK but I did not think it had anywhere near the 200lbs of torque. I also question all the advertised ratings claimed by these manufactures. A couple years ago I torqued a 1 inch bolt to 300 ft lbs and my IR rated at 450 would not break it lose. Everything set at 125psi and 25 feet of 3/8 air line.

I would love to see some real world test on these tools and what they actually really do...

 

[WRX/Z28]

PSI is not as important as scfm when it comes to reaching advertised torque ratings. My guess is your compressor is on the small side...

 

[Danglerb]

PSI is not as important as scfm when it comes to reaching advertised torque ratings. My guess is your compressor is on the small side...

SCFM is amount of airflow, PSI is what makes the air flow and is directly what creates the torque in the tool.

Besides air tools that are not continuous duty run off the tank and the compressor capacity means nothing except how long it takes to refill the tank.

 

[WRX/Z28]

SCFM is air volume sustainable at a given psi. Think of it this way, imagine a stirring straw with 125psi flowing through it, and then think of a garden hose with 125psi flowing through it. Which do you think has more overall power (potential energy)

SCFM is the key for reaching a tools torque rating. My work air system is 125psi the the reg, and has large lines. My home air system also reachs 125psi, but is a craftsman 15 gallon. My impact is noticeably stronger off the work air system, even though the psi is the same.

Also, we have a few interchangeable hoses at work, and if I get stuck with the small cheapy we have floating around, the tool noticeably has less power.

The key here: SCFM "Standard Cubic Feet per Minute"

Also, when I was saying your "compressor" was on the small side, I was talking generically about the unit that pressurizes and stores air. Larger tanks and lines typically move more air than small tanks and lines regardless of psi in the tank.

 

[RangerDaleXp]

PSI is not as important as scfm when it comes to reaching advertised torque ratings. My guess is your compressor is on the small side...

60 gal tank at 16 cfm would not be considered on the small side of anything.
PSI is important.

In other words, more then enough to run the tools...

 

[WRX/Z28]

60 gal tank at 16 cfm would not be considered on the small side of anything.
PSI is important.

In other words, more then enough to run the tools...

Never said it was unimportant, just less important than scfm (how much air is actually being moved at that pressure strikes me as far more important than what pressure it's being moved at)

Still don't understand why anyone would immediately assume that pressure is the only important factor. I guess it's similar to guys that assume that boost pressure is the only important factor on a turbo car...

What psi is that SCFM rating at? This is equally important, as are the hose diameter and length of hose after the compressor/air tank.

16scfm is pretty good for a 60 gallon rig (at 140psi)...

 

[pipsters]

Never said it was unimportant, just less important than scfm (how much air is actually being moved at that pressure strikes me as far more important than what pressure it's being moved at)

Still don't understand why anyone would immediately assume that pressure is the only important factor. I guess it's similar to guys that assume that boost pressure is the only important factor on a turbo car...

What psi is that SCFM rating at? This is equally important, as are the hose diameter and length of hose after the compressor/air tank.

16scfm is pretty good for a 60 gallon rig (at 140psi)...

Compressor pump output doesn't mean much with an impact. You run it on stored air. Also do you know what the "standard" is referring to?

 

[tmoneyr007]

LOL, nitpicking a $39 3/8" impact with solid reviews....

 

[WRX/Z28]

Compressor pump output doesn't mean much with an impact. You run it on stored air. Also do you know what the "standard" is referring to?

SCFM is not just for measuring compressor pump output...

It's measuring air flow out of the tank, and is a direct result of air line size, valve sizes, bends and routing... etc.

 

[pipsters]

SCFM is not just for measuring compressor pump output...

It's measuring air flow out of the tank, and is a direct result of air line size, valve sizes, bends and routing... etc.

My point is you state a 60 gal 16 cfm compressor is fine, inferring the pump has anything to do with it. The tank is not rated on cfm, just the pump, and I ask again what does the "standard" in "scfm" mean?

 

[WRX/Z28]

"Standard" refers to the method for testing, and the environment (IE altitude, temperature, humidity). The "standard" is actually not very standard at all... since noone agree's on one.

CFM or SCFM is more important at the outlet of the hose than anywhere else when talking about short bursts.

Also, I never stated anything at all about the motor, simply the tank size and scfm rating (assuming they're rating the tank outlet flow). Tools consume a certain volume of air. If your tank and it's valve/piping can't supply that volume, then it doesn't matter what psi is in it, or what psi is at the end of the hose...

 

[WRX/Z28]

Think of it like a battery. The 12v Li-ion battery on a mini cordless drill and the 12v battery in your car can deliver very different amounts of power even though they show the same voltage on a multimeter. Voltage is similar to pressure... current is similar to scfm.

 

[pipsters]

Standard is 15* C @ 29.92" Hg, standard barometric pressure and temp

 

[mrbreezeet1]

By that same token, we have a screw type compressor at work, hence no tank.
I don't know what the PSI is, but when we use our big 1" Impact, it has to be hooked up to this big tank that we let fill up 1st. The gun just don't have the power unless you hook it up to the big tank.

 

[WRX/Z28]

Standard is 15* C @ 29.92" Hg, standard barometric pressure and temp

"Standard cubic feet per minute (SCFM) is the volumetric flow rate of a gas corrected to "standardized" conditions of temperature and pressure. It is equivalent to the molar flow rate by the ideal gas law. Conversion of SCFM to mass flow requires knowledge of the mixture averaged gas molecular weight. Consider that one mole of gas (STP) occupies about 22.414 liters. Thus, a one mole/second flow of hydrogen corresponds to 1g/s whereas a one mole/second flow of Krypton, MW=83.8, results in 83.6 g/s.

However, great care must be taken, as the "standard" conditions vary between definitions and should therefore always be checked. Worldwide, the "standard" condition for pressure is variously defined as an absolute pressure of 101,325 pascals, 1.0 bar (i.e., 100,000 pascals), 14.73 psia, or 14.696 psia and the "standard" temperature is variously defined as 68 °F, 60 °F, 0 °C, 15 °C, 20 °C or 25 °C. The relative humidity (e.g., 36% or 0%) is also included in some definitions of standard conditions. There is, in fact, no universally accepted set of standard conditions."


...but thanks quiz show. Didn't take it as you were "testing" me.

BTW, I know how to use google and wikipedia too...

 

[pipsters]

...but thanks quiz show. Didn't take it as you were "testing" me.

BTW, I know how to use google and wikipedia too...

Well I didn't have to use google or wikipedia, that is the difference .

NASCAR uses something like a 2500 PSI tank with no pump to run their guns. Pump output means nothing on air compressors unless you are running a continuous use tool. That was my point, people quote the pump output of the compressor like it means anything. You could fill that 60 gallon compressor up with air and turn it off and it would run the same (for a while) whether the pump was on or off.

 

[WRX/Z28]

LOL, neither did I.

NO ONE WAS REFERENCING PUMP OUTPUT.

Thanks though...

True that it would run the same until the pressure started to drop, however, my point is that one 60 gallon tank at 125psi does not necessarily flow the same as any other 60 gallon tank at 125psi.

PLEASE READ WHAT I SAID, I'm NOT referencing pump output scfm! Thanks.

 

[Danglerb]

PSI at the tool is what counts, nothing else really matters as long as you have the rated PSI at the tool while its running.

Lots of poor hoses and couplers are out there, and that is where blame should go not on compressors or tanks. Some regulators don't manage higher flow rates well either, which could be the reason a local storage tank might be needed for a 1" impact.

 

[WRX/Z28]

So 125psi through a hose the size of a little drink stirring straw is the same as 125psi through a 3/8" hose?

Fluid dynamics disagree's with this. Air volume is just as important (if not more so) as pressure. This is my point, but I guess it's being overlooked.

 

[Danglerb]

So 125psi through a hose the size of a little drink stirring straw is the same as 125psi through a 3/8" hose?

Fluid dynamics disagree's with this. Air volume is just as important (if not more so) as pressure. This is my point, but I guess it's being overlooked.

If the 125 psi is measured at the tool while its running, then how it gets there doesn't matter.

I suspect the issue between your home and shop may be the air regulator capacity and the volume of air in the pipes and hoses that act like a buffer tank. Nothing else should be much of a factor, not the compressor size, tank size, or even the size of the air lines in terms of flow rates (the size is adequate for the flow required by a 3/8 impact).

 

[WRX/Z28]

If the 125 psi is measured at the tool while its running, then how it gets there doesn't matter.

I suspect the issue between your home and shop may be the air regulator capacity and the volume of air in the pipes and hoses that act like a buffer tank. Nothing else should be much of a factor, not the compressor size, tank size, or even the size of the air lines in terms of flow rates (the size is adequate for the flow required by a 3/8 impact).

I haven't been having any issues with my setup, other than the shop air being a bit stronger.

Your tool wouldn't have 125psi while running if your lines, valves and such aren't capable of keeping up with the flow the tool requires. Larger tanks typically have larger valves and hard lines on them.

If you want to test it out for yourself, go buy this HF air line http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-quarter-inch-x-25-ft-self-coiling-air-hose-47.html

and test the torque of your impact, or the speed of your air ratchet.

Then replace the line, and nothing else with this:

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eighth-inch-x-25-ft-reinforced-rubber-air-hose-42184.html

I've already done this. (the 3/8" was actually a goodyear, but that shouldn't matter) Tool output was noticeably stronger with just this change.

An old schooler that installed another one of my shop's air system explained all this to me once. PSI does make a difference, but so does the volume the lines/valve/hose can flow (including the ones on the tank). He said that the cfm or volume of air that flows is actually more important, but that's obviously a matter of opinion, although I share his opinion after seeing it first hand.

He went on to explain that this is why my air tools seemed different from one shop to the next even though they all used identical air pressure. The lines weren't all the same length, or even diameter, and even though you could plug a guage in that showed the lines pressurized with 125 in either place, they couldn't keep that 125 up with a tool with high air consumption.

Take what i'm saying at face value, or don't. If you test for yourself, I think you'll be surprised at the results though...

 

[tmoneyr007]

Start a new thread? Seriously has nothing to do with the 3/8" gun ..... Just sayin

 

[WRX/Z28]

Start a new thread? Seriously has nothing to do with the 3/8" gun ..... Just sayin

True. Sorry for the clutter.

 

[RangerDaleXp]

Start a new thread? Seriously has nothing to do with the 3/8" gun ..... Just sayin

I agree, this would be a good topic on a compressor thread.....

 

[BLACK DEATH]

Back from the dead. So how is your 3/8" earthquakes holding up guys? The HF here doesnt have any but I found one at a pawn shop. Looks good. They want $29 but I am going to haggle them down and say "this is from harbor freight & they sell cheap stuff" Now I am only saying that to get it cheap. No need to start off the topic again.

 

[MNRZR]

Back from the dead. So how is your 3/8" earthquakes holding up guys? The HF here doesnt have any but I found one at a pawn shop. Looks good. They want $29 but I am going to haggle them down and say "this is from harbor freight & they sell cheap stuff" Now I am only saying that to get it cheap. No need to start off the topic again.

Mine has been working like a champ! Plenty of power. I find myself reaching for it more often than my 1/2" impact.

 

[BLACK DEATH]

I might just have to scoop this one up.

 

[pipsters]

I might just have to scoop this one up.

The new Earthquake line is the real deal. Even the previous was good. But the current is more powerful, and quieter. Truly a great impact that outperformed a 2135timax I had (key word: had).

 

[Danglerb]

Specifically in regards to the older 3/8, its good, and a guy on ebay has rebuild kits (just a few orings and gaskets iirc) for $3 shipped. Buy one cheap and you should be good to go for a LONG time.

or

Buy the new one when it shows up on sale etc., it does appear to be even better, but long term life isn't something we will know for years.

 

[BLACK DEATH]

Ok, I didnt read reviews on the new just the old one. I may just wait for the new one but even with a 20% coupon it is still up there in price.

 

[Astro_Pneumatic_Tools]

Looking for replacement parts that won't cost you as much as the entire tool?
Astro Pneumatic now provides popular cross-over parts that can be used on competitor's brands. These parts are for the same tools, and constructed with the same quality, but won't cost you an arm and a leg. Best of all, you can purchase them directly from us by calling (800) 221-9705!
Check out the list below for all parts and their cross-overs!

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[oldtools]

Looking for replacement parts that won't cost you as much as the entire tool?
Astro Pneumatic now provides popular cross-over parts that can be used on competitor's brands. These parts are for the same tools, and constructed with the same quality, but won't cost you an arm and a leg. Best of all, you can purchase them directly from us by calling (800) 221-9705!
Check out the list below for all parts and their cross-overs!

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These are good info.

 

[outdoorsman310]

I don't think you can buy that version any more. I have the 4 bolt version and it worked well. I bought an mg325 to replace it though.

 

[09-JK]

These parts are for the same tools, and constructed with the same quality, but won't cost you an arm and a leg.

How do you know that they are the same quality as the OEM? Wouldn't that require that you have all of the manufactuiring specs and drawings from the manufacturer that designed the parts originally?

 

[GSteg]

How do you know that they are the same quality as the OEM? Wouldn't that require that you have all of the manufactuiring specs and drawings from the manufacturer that designed the parts originally?

Reverse Engineering perhaps?

 

[09-JK]

Reverse Engineering perhaps?

The challenge with reverse engineering is that you do not know the tolerances of the part in question or the mating parts, so unless you sample a very large number of parts and then statistically arrive at the part tolerances, you never really know if the knock-off parts will fit and work as designed in the original product.

 

[CobraRed]

How do you know that they are the same quality as the OEM? Wouldn't that require that you have all of the manufactuiring specs and drawings from the manufacturer that designed the parts originally?

Because tool repair companies that make a living from doing tool parts replacement and repair have been ordering parts and shopping around for who has them at the best price for years, buying replacement parts in the 100's from companies just like Astro to service IR, Mac, Matco ect.

That's how these companies learn the universal application, from customers inquiring about them - and boy would they hear about it if it didn't fit or work. Now when it comes to durability (or something like RC hardness on an anvil), it comes down to if the people doing business with the company have had any history of failures or just plain trust the company.

 

[Marlin]

If I were rebuilding a Porsche motor I don't think I'd buy a set of pistons from Kmart, even if they did have them at half the price.

.

 

[stikman56]

Nothing at HF is re-badged. It is all cloned! The Chinese have been doing it for years. Saves them a ton of money in the R&D and advertising department and fools the uninformed!

Incorrect actually, there are some things that were rebadged. The older Earthquake air ratchets are made by Florida Pneumatic. I believe the FP729A if I remember it right is the Earthquake 1/2" version. The 3/8" version is also the Cornwell CAT8000SD with different colored plastic.