nmantas
Well-known member
Got away for years without them.....now that I have this set I find myself using them all the time. Don't forget to use some cutting oil to extend the life and make it easier to use.
Craftsman 48 piece SAE/Metric Thread Restorer Set
- Thread starter woodstockva
- Start date
kiatech
Well-known member
In for one, could have really used one yesterday.
SantaAna12
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 1, 2012
- Messages
- 1,091
2 in my cart showed up as 39.99 apiece. But would not ship to store.
And would not ship to my PO box. AARGH!
Thanks Wood!
And would not ship to my PO box. AARGH!
Thanks Wood!
Farmall450
Well-known member
It's far more valuable to me than my tap and die set.
bowlofturtle
Well-known member
So no coupons or discounts apply? I never ordered from sears/Kmart etc before.
Tarheelgarage
Well-known member
Picked up a new set after using my old set over the years.
Great quality
Great quality
Read post #1 in this thread first. Sign yourself up at www.shopyourway.com then you may get some discounts in email just for joining. They almost always have a $10 off $50 purchase available too, so buy something else for $11 to get it. Of course that only makes dollar sense if you really want the something else. It looks like this rethreader is only mailed so you will have to pay shipping cost unless you sign up for the Max deal that is mentioned in post #1.
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Shadowdog500
Well-known member
Your joking right!!
This is one of the most used sets in my shop...I recommend you search this item on GJ and read up....
+1!!!
I reach for these all the time to:
clean existing treads,
Repair damaged threads, and
To use as a bolt or nut gauge.
Chris
bowlofturtle
Well-known member
Sorry I figured since the first post was many months ago and at a higher price then now it was relevant
bulletpruf
Well-known member
Just ordered one for $39.96. I work on older cars and re-use a lot of nuts and bolts. This will come in very handy.
Scott
Scott
ALLOUTOFBUBBLEGUM
Active member
- Joined
- Feb 22, 2014
- Messages
- 42
Shipped for $39. Thanks a lot!!!
No problem. And since you haven't dealt with Sears online ordering, many people find that it doesn't work very well. That is what happened to me tonight when i tried ordering on the web. It would nott apply a discount and wouldn't apply some points from SYW. Called the 800 number and finally got a nice lady in the Phillipines who was able to apply the discounts. You could have the same problem.
Now I wonder why I didn't order on the 800 number to begin with. It would have taken less time.
I've had my set for a year, and I like it, but I don't know that I'd go that far.
You can chase threads with a common tap or die, but you cannot cut threads with a thread chasing tap/die. While this toolset has a definite purpose, that still makes it less versatile than a standard tap/die set.
Yes, I know the rethread taps/dies don't "cut" new threads, but if you chase two bolts, one with each type of tool, and look at the threads under a magnifying glass, the difference between the two amounts to a pittance at best.
Despite the fact the toolset was less useful than I expected, I'm still satisfied with it, and would buy it again if I had it to do over. Especially when it's on a good sale.
bowlofturtle
Well-known member
Yes, sears.com is horrible for searching stuff. Reminds me why I never used them.
I wanted to grab something but instead they forced me to sign up for max or w/e $42 shipped for the kit. Hopefully I can get some usage out of it.
$5 off was for $50. I just got annoyed of searching didn't care anymore
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Over the past couple yr., Sears would only deliver to me via UPS, so no P. O. Box. Also, you are right, this item is not available ship to store. No idea why they do this on some things. Pain in the ****, but this is a good price so I did it.
leadfoot415
Well-known member
I picked one of these up from the local deals page at the Dearborn/Fairlane mall store for 28$ after some sywr points.. good set, I have one at work that I paid far more for.
LB-1911
ALLIANCE MEMBER
The 48 pc set or was it the 40 pc set?
40 pc. Master Rethreader
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-40-pc-tap-and-die-set-master/p-00952105000P
48 pc. Thread Restorer Kit
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-48-p...00942275000P?sLevel=0&redirectType=SKIP_LEVEL
pauls_workshop
Well-known member
As an ME on the side, who had designed more than a few bolted joints (and more than a few *bolts* too when I couldn't find one that I needed existing), there is much truth to your post above. For critical fasteners and joints (with a high torque spec for the size of bolt), recutting threads is very very bad as those joints could loosen over time. For non-critical joints, it is less of a big deal, as there will still be plenty of engagement to do the job. The right way is to use one of these type rethread kits whenever one can though for sure. It is safest and best approach. If you are just fixing some valve cover bolts to a head, why, for that it doesn't much matter. - Paul, friendly ME on the side
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Jarhead0408
Well-known member
Wow, Sears is messed up.
I just ordered this set and selected the free shipping option.
Somebody please explain to me how I can be signed up for the free 90 day SYW Max trial and they still charge me $8.25 in shipping.
I completed checkout for the roughly $39 price and got charged $51.47?????
If I call Sears will they fix this?
I just ordered this set and selected the free shipping option.
Somebody please explain to me how I can be signed up for the free 90 day SYW Max trial and they still charge me $8.25 in shipping.
I completed checkout for the roughly $39 price and got charged $51.47?????
If I call Sears will they fix this?
I bought this set back in March on sale. I really only bought it because I had points about to expire I needed to burn, and it was Made in the USA.
I've used this set a bunch of times since I bought it. As a matter of fact, my tap-and-die set has just sat on the shelf gathering dust since I got this. Because I don't really ever tap new threads, I was using the tap-and-die to clean up and chase threads. This set is much better for that purpose. It has a pretty good range of sizes, out of about 10 times I've used it this year, I think only 1 time it didn't have the size I needed.
I've used this set a bunch of times since I bought it. As a matter of fact, my tap-and-die set has just sat on the shelf gathering dust since I got this. Because I don't really ever tap new threads, I was using the tap-and-die to clean up and chase threads. This set is much better for that purpose. It has a pretty good range of sizes, out of about 10 times I've used it this year, I think only 1 time it didn't have the size I needed.
You have only begun the frustration.
I called and email for 2 months, had 4 different web ticket error numbers, was told all kinds of **** and lies, disconnected, lied to, so much more I can't remember. I finally gave up.
I signed up Sept 2nd and when I tried to use it it said my trial expired and I saved $0.00.
Sears is a joke, I only buy stuff from them now when it is 50% off or more. No one in the store could help, no supervisor on the phone, no response to a letter written to them.
Good luck with yours.
Jarhead0408
Well-known member
Wow, just got "lucky" managed to check out with a second one for the $39 price. Grand total was $42.66
I'm going to call and cancel the first one.
I'm going to call and cancel the first one.
I had problems too, see back on post #54.
Give 'em a try - call the 800# and tell 'em what happened.
You and kneeman might try what I did; tried to order later at night, about 10PM on Saturday night, and of course everything here in the US was closed so the line switched to the Phillipines answering service. They were pretty good, kept trying, were able to access my SYW account and I got some points credited for future use. That probably does not happen with a typical telephone order. She coudn't get a $10 credit applied to this purchase that SYW said is available, so she overrode it somehow and made it happen anyway. So I'm happy. Lesson learned - call later at night, maybe it will work for you.
shooting4life
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 19, 2012
- Messages
- 334
Picked up a set for me and a set for my bro for 
Thank you for your insights.
You make very good points. The only argument I would make to them is if the integrity of the bolted joints in your application is that critical, the fasteners should be replaced, rather than repaired, regardless of the type of tap/die used.
Jarhead0408
Well-known member
Just got both of mine in. Looks pretty dang nice! I'm glad its all US made too.
Now I just have to return the one they overcharged me for to the store.
Now I just have to return the one they overcharged me for to the store.
pauls_workshop
Well-known member
Yes, that would always be safest and best. But if a few threads are just slightly dinged up, this kind of restore kit would be fine for most applications. Most of my bolted joints use "rolled" threads in the fasteners for added strength! Not automotive. And not grade 8 stuff. We would not typically try to fix a messed up set of parts but instead start over with new. Its for more severe application. I don't design bolted joints every day, but from time to time when I need to in my work. I could probably be considered "dangerous" in this area for internet thread chat forum use however! - Paul, ME on the side
pauls_workshop
Well-known member
Thought I'd just add here a tip for people. One way to really optimize what you get out of a bolted joint that is easy to do: Reduce the friction during assembly and torgueing of the joint. The way this works, say you are setting a bolt to a 60 Nm torque. You are applying this level of torque to the bolt head as specified for this joint with your torque wrench. Well, as you torque any bolt, there is friction. Friction between each of those bolt threads and the threaded hole, and friction under the bolt head and flat surface above the threaded hole. As you tighten to the 60 Nm spec, let's say 10% of that is friction for this example. Well, at the end, you really got effectively only 54 Nm of Torque applied to the joint to produce a clamp load, as 6 Nm of that torque just went into overcoming the friction of the joint.
A simple way to optimize a clamp load is to reduce the friction during the torquing process. If you reduced that friction say 50%, this would give you a resulting effective torque of 57 Nm instead of only 54 Nm for this example. This makes loosening of the joint less likely over time due to the higher clamp load. OIL ! Works great on the threads and under the bolt head before you install and tighten the joint to reduce that friction. Now don't add so much that you hydrolock in your bolt hole and prevent the bolt from going all the way down in the hole! Not in the hole, just some drops on the threads and under head of bolt. Best for critical joints (head bolts or similar or joints that will go through thermal cycles, like exh manifold bolts). - Paul, friendly ME on the side
A simple way to optimize a clamp load is to reduce the friction during the torquing process. If you reduced that friction say 50%, this would give you a resulting effective torque of 57 Nm instead of only 54 Nm for this example. This makes loosening of the joint less likely over time due to the higher clamp load. OIL ! Works great on the threads and under the bolt head before you install and tighten the joint to reduce that friction. Now don't add so much that you hydrolock in your bolt hole and prevent the bolt from going all the way down in the hole! Not in the hole, just some drops on the threads and under head of bolt. Best for critical joints (head bolts or similar or joints that will go through thermal cycles, like exh manifold bolts). - Paul, friendly ME on the side
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Mohawk Dave
Well-known member
Yea...now make sure you do wet torque settings and not dry...
Mgnu
Well-known member
Mine came today too. Very nice kit, and USA made of course.
If you do this you will be over torqueing your bolts. Most manufacturers account for that friction when giving torque specs.
pauls_workshop
Well-known member
Getting more effective torque is NOT over-torqueing your bolts. Your torque wrench is putting in the same 60 Nm with the higher friction and the 10% lower friction example above. The bolt head is *also* experiencing the very same 60 Nm as your torque wrench. It is just the threads below it are experiencing less friction and thus result in a higher *clamp load*, which is a vertical force acting to keep the joint together, not a torque. That force is higher with less bolted joint friction. Now, your bolt must be strong enough to handle this force. Higher grade bolts of course are stronger than lower grade bolts. Most critical fastener applications will be using higher grade bolts (there are many grades of course). These can easily handle the 5 or 10% difference we are talking about here. Not to worry.
BTW, you can observe for youself the difference. Just tighten a bolt without lube and mark the final top point on the bolt head and next to it. Add lube and torque to same spec. You should see the bolt turn more than the original mark. This delta would cause the additional clamp load and more robust joint. - Paul
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CORTEZSS69
Well-known member
Thanks op for the post. My snap on truck had the same set on sale for 120.26 plus tax today. So a co-worker and myself ordered one each from sears. Out the door with no shipping cost and tax for $42.50 a piece.