The VISES of Garage Journal

[exmaxima1]

That vise should have a wood handle. The original looked like dowel with elongated knobs on the ends. As a wood vise it never needs a lot of torque on the handle. I had to make a new handle for mine but have still to do the end knobs. My wood turning skill is not quite there yet.

I like wood handles as well. A simple design is a piece of dowel with rubber cane tips on each end. They are quiet, and don't get cold like steel pipes do.

 

[JeremyBurke]

....Whew was I glad to have it setting in the back of my minivan.




....Then it dawned on me there's a number stamped in the end of the lead screw knob. After lunch before heading home is when I opened the hatch wiped the dirt off and confirmed it, woo hoo!



I did get the date off the slide and it's a 3-54, anyone that knows how to find the restore on the other 5198, it's hard to find poking around on this huge thread.



Jeremy, I never get tired of looking at your Reed and Craftsman restores.

Econtrk: I think we have all felt that relief of a deal making it into or hands. Sadly it comes from so many that get away, it makes the big catches all the sweeter.

Thanks for the kind words.

Please do a stand alone thread for your 5198 restore and post a link to it here so we can live vicariously.

 

[drivesitfar]

Econ: Big Caddy (BC) posted up his 5198 a few times while he was restoring it on this thread. he also posted it up with all his 5196's and 5197's and other 519x's for a family photo. i'm guessing it was in November or maybe October so now you'll have a good excuse to read a bit more of this great thread to find it if BC doesn't see you landed the twin to his and post up a few more pictures.

Nice story about the catch and non release of the 5198.

 

[oldldh]

I did get the date off the slide and it's a 3-54, anyone that knows how to find the restore on the other 5198, it's hard to find poking around on this huge thread.

Well, now there are two...

Amazing...

Here's the before and after photos on Big Caddy's 5198 and the "51XX Collection"...

There are more out there, and they'll turn up...

Hopefully close to me...

 

[jpickar]

Smoke: it's probably a 1970's Columbian and it's a solid vise. i have the 1st cousin of that one that is a Craftsman crowntop. don't they look like the same vise except the Craftsman had a few little changes?

Oldie: good to hear from you and it must have been a great dinner with that post.

drivesitfar
What model Craftsman is that vise?
John

 

[va.grouseman]

Originally posted by Econotrk.
I did get the date off the slide and it's a 3-54, anyone that knows how to find the restore on the other 5198, it's hard to find poking around on this huge thread.


Econ,---You will find the 5198 on page 918,--post 19610----page 1086,--post 21703----page 1089,--post 21772.

 

[drivesitfar]

JP: sorry i don't remember the model # of the Craftsman and i just call it the Crowntop. it's packed away until spring so if somebody else knows please post your answer.

VA: you are the guru of finding posts of vises on this thread.

 

[bigcaddy]

Econ: Big Caddy (BC) posted up his 5198 a few times while he was restoring it on this thread. he also posted it up with all his 5196's and 5197's and other 519x's for a family photo. i'm guessing it was in November or maybe October so now you'll have a good excuse to read a bit more of this great thread to find it if BC doesn't see you landed the twin to his and post up a few more pictures.

Nice story about the catch and non release of the 5198.

There can only be one 5198!! Keep that beast within sight or I'll swing by with my Craftsman chainsaw and make quick work of that thing

For those that didn't see it, I found the chainsaw equalivant of a 5198 vise this weekend. Once it's going I might start playing "Vise Highlander"

 

[Thrumcap]

my prentiss heavy chipping has 8 7/16" jaws. i imagine its gone by now.

Is yours a swivel base? The fixed base is the 58 and the swivel is called the 98?

Catalog entries seem to stop over 7"... I have a question into someone else who seems to have an identical vise, but again an indistinct picture.

 

[topop101]

Rainy morning finds on cl . 40 for the 51800 . 60 for the 51820. Not sure on the vintage but the 5182 is very clean

 

[balane]

I almost didn't bother with this one it was so far gone. It's a 4" Rock Island 505A that weighs 26 pounds. It was missing a jaw insert and the other one was cracked so I cut two jaws from a hard resin plank I have. This stuff makes great jaws that hold up well. It's hard and strong but not hard enough to damage your work. I like it better than aluminum jaws for sure. I wish I had remembered to snap a before shot because I don't think you'd recognize the two as being the same vise, it was such a mess. It works pretty good now. Very nice action after I cleaned the threads up and smoothed the slide.

.

 

[topop101]

I almost didn't bother with this one it was so far gone. It's a 4" Rock Island 505A that weighs 26 pounds. It was missing a jaw insert and the other one was cracked so I cut two jaws from a hard resin plank I have. This stuff makes great jaws that hold up well. It's hard and strong but not hard enough to damage your work. I like it better than aluminum jaws for sure. I wish I had remembered to snap a before shot because I don't think you'd recognize the two as being the same vise, it was such a mess. It works pretty good now. Very nice action after I cleaned the threads up and smoothed the slide.

.

Amazing job, Hope my craftsman turn out as nice. I like the idea of the composite inserts. I have some UHMW laying around . How do you think it would work as inserts?

 

[balane]

Thank you.

I've used it. I think it's a little on the soft side for vise jaws so you would probably want to cut several to have spares. Polyethylene dents very easily imo. The bright side is that it wouldn't harm even the softest of work you're trying to hold. Another positive is how easy it is to work with. Cutting that is a dream compared to the stuff I put on this vise which was kind of a pain.

 

[topop101]

Thank you.

I've used it. I think it's a little on the soft side for vise jaws so you would probably want to cut several to have spares. Polyethylene dents very easily imo. The bright side is that it wouldn't harm even the softest of work you're trying to hold. Another positive is how easy it is to work with. Cutting that is a dream compared to the stuff I put on this vise which was kind of a pain.

From time to time I get old wear pads from crane booms. Not sure what kind of material they are , maybe a nylon? Maybe this would be better than UHMW?

 

[balane]

I think nylon would be very similar to the other. I've never used it though. I think either would be fine as long as the user is aware of the limitations and not clamp down on any jagged edge items. I would personally prefer phenol formaldehyde resin to either.

 

[balane]

Here as some photos of the Poly jaws I made for a 3.5" Wilton. I sold it as a hobby vise so I don't know how well they've held up. I definitely liked how easy they were to shape.

.

 

[LG63]

I think nylon would be very similar to the other. I've never used it though. I think either would be fine as long as the user is aware of the limitations and not clamp down on any jagged edge items. I would personally prefer phenol formaldehyde resin to either.

Is phenol formaldehyde resin the generic term for phenolic or Garolite?

Ever try Delrin? it's a little harder than UHMW.

 

[balane]

Phenol and Phenolic would be the same thing but I've no doubt there's different variations of the compound. I just happened to have a sheet of whatever here and, fortunately, it's a great density for jaws but that was just by luck. Garolite is just fiberglass and epoxy resin, right? I've never used it but my first instinct is that it could be too brittle for jaws.

Edit: Wasn't familiar with Delrin. It looks like it could be interesting.

.

 

[LG63]

Garolite is what Mcmaster sells as phenolic. Don't know much about it.

 

[balane]

Ah, just a brand name then. It does look like the phenolic board I have so they could be very similar.

Edit: Strike what I just said, I was thinking the Delrin looks similar to my phenol plank, not the Garolite which doesn't look the same at all.

According to this page Garolite is fiberglass and epoxy laminate which, imho, might chip too easily for vise jaws.

http://www.fingertechrobotics.com/proddetail.php?prod=garolite

.

 

[exmaxima1]

Phenol and Phenolic would be the same thing but I've no doubt there's different variations of the compound. I just happened to have a sheet of whatever here and, fortunately, it's a great density for jaws but that was just by luck. Garolite is just fiberglass and epoxy resin, right? I've never used it but my first instinct is that it could be too brittle for jaws.

Edit: Wasn't familiar with Delrin. It looks like it could be interesting.

.

Delrin is a trade name for acetal homopolymer, and it's properties seem very to nylon in my experience. I like it because it machines very cleanly, and will hold some very close tolerances. Too soft for machinist vise applications.

Phenolic is very popular for jaws, and holds up pretty good. I use aluminum (cast plate preferred) in a pinch, but brass is ideal.

 

[exmaxima1]

EX: unless you want to take apart the entire vise i agree with Alan that pulling out the dynamic and taking a smallish wood dowel (or metal rod if you are careful) and going through the vise nut. then giving it a few pops on the dust cover and it should pop out.

Quick update: I tried the Wilton method and the cap effortlessly pushed out. Granted, the vise is still new, but it seems like the easiest method and no risk of splinters inside the threads. I'll post pics when I fix the dent.

 

[drivesitfar]

EX: i use an aluminum rod, but thought more people might have a piece of wood doweling laying around. tell us what the Wilton method is again because not sure what that is or post over on the vise repair 101 thread if you have time.

good to hear you got it out. what's the plan? to replace or test out your skills at making it rounded again?

 

[jakemac]

The Wilton method is to remove the dynamic jaw.
Remove the main screw from the jaw.
Then, screw the main screw back through the main nut until it pushes the cap off.

It seems like a lot less work just to remove the dynamic jaw and knock the cap off with a dowel.

 

[va.grouseman]

Originally posted by Exmaxima1.
Delrin is a trade name for acetal homopolymer, and it's properties seem very to nylon in my experience. I like it because it machines very cleanly, and will hold some very close tolerances. Too soft for machinist vise applications.


Correct, Derlin is DuPont's brand name.
Has excellent insulator qualities, and is used in a lot of power grid applications.
Is also used in some knife handle scales.
+1 on the not standing up to machinist level applications.

 

[hoyt]

That vise should have a wood handle. The original looked like dowel with elongated knobs on the ends. As a wood vise it never needs a lot of torque on the handle. I had to make a new handle for mine but have still to do the end knobs. My wood turning skill is not quite there yet.

The handle it arrived with was wood, but home-made and broken. I had the pipe in the "leftovers" bin.

This is the only woodworking vise I have and it will eventually come in handy, which is why I mounted it off the end of the long workbench so I could drill some holes for the bench dogs I have left from an old Workmate.

 

[exmaxima1]

The Wilton method is to remove the dynamic jaw.
Remove the main screw from the jaw.
Then, screw the main screw back through the main nut until it pushes the cap off.

It seems like a lot less work just to remove the dynamic jaw and knock the cap off with a dowel.

I was thinking the same way until I read this:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=93250&page=2

(Post #26)

It convinced me to use Wilton's recommend method. Took less than a minute to remove the spindle screws (used a cordless driver), and at the same time I checked the lube on the spindle (it was dry in many spots). It did put a small scar on the inside of the cap from pushing it, so if i did it again, I'd crown a short metal dowel and drop it in before the spindle. In any case, I fixed the rear cap and just waiting for the paint to dry----I'm on my second bottle of Sierra Nevada Coffee Stout, and it's yummy

 

[econotrk]

There can only be one 5198!! Keep that beast within sight or I'll swing by with my Craftsman chainsaw and make quick work of that thing

Funny the known 2 are on opposite ends of the country, there must be a few sprinkled in between. Went back looking back at your 5198 and didn't find mention of the date stamp, what is your born on date?

 

[econotrk]

You, Sir, are a Communist Agitator, and when we take over, will be among the first to be placed against the wall!!!!

Oldldh, I hope you find your 5198. While going through this vise thread from the beginning you're the one who really brought my attention the the 51xx series. If not for that I'd have never given the add a second look.

Econ,---You will find the 5198 on page 918,--post 19610----page 1086,--post 21703----page 1089,--post 21772.

Thanks va, I haven't had much luck searching for anything I've wanted to look back on. Is there a better method to search I'm missing?

 

[JeremyBurke]

Phenol and Phenolic would be the same thing but I've no doubt there's different variations of the compound. I just happened to have a sheet of whatever here and, fortunately, it's a great density for jaws but that was just by luck. Garolite is just fiberglass and epoxy resin, right? I've never used it but my first instinct is that it could be too brittle for jaws.



Edit: Wasn't familiar with Delrin. It looks like it could be interesting.



.

We use Delrin/acytel a lot for work and a strong bearing material its coefficient of friction is very low so it might not make a great vise jaw for that reason. Just my $0.02.

 

[bmxdad]

What Krylon, or other Mfg., color are people using for there reddish colored Craftsman vises? Picked one up, and after tearing it apart and cleaning it, I want to repaint it. Looking for something close to original, but mine seems to have been repainted at one time, so can't use it for a match.

 

[bigcaddy]

Funny the known 2 are on opposite ends of the country, there must be a few sprinkled in between. Went back looking back at your 5198 and didn't find mention of the date stamp, what is your born on date?

I want to say 1950 but don't remember. I'll have to look. The rest of the collection all range in the 50s with nothing later

 

[econotrk]

Found this Chas. Parker 134 that looks like someone dunked it in a bucket of house paint. From what I can tell through the paint it appears to be in remarkably good shape. No saw marks on the top of the jaws with the faces showing very little wear, the slide doesn't appear to have any hammer marks, I can't really find anything to complain about. What's it worth, not for resale value but as a keeper. I'm really drawn to it, but at $365 and not a lot of wiggle room the price seems awful high.

 

[econotrk]

I want to say 1950 but don't remember. I'll have to look. The rest of the collection all range in the 50s with nothing later

Looking at your family photo the ones I can see have the Craftsman badge with your 5198 having the cast in lettering. Guessing the badged versions are a newer style, any idea when this took place?

 

[bl00]

Found this Chas. Parker 134 that looks like someone dunked it in a bucket of house paint. From what I can tell through the paint it appears to be in remarkably good shape. No saw marks on the top of the jaws with the faces showing very little wear, the slide doesn't appear to have any hammer marks, I can't really find anything to complain about. What's it worth, not for resale value but as a keeper. I'm really drawn to it, but at $365 and not a lot of wiggle room the price seems awful high.

An old ad shows that to be a 4" vise and weighs 76 lbs. That's pretty stout for a 4 incher, but the price is nuts. I'd expect it to be under $100.

 

[Outlawmws]

An old ad shows that to be a 4" vise and weighs 76 lbs. That's pretty stout for a 4 incher, but the price is nuts. I'd expect it to be under $100.

Fixed it for you but

 

[Youngfd]

Picked up this nice 4 inch WILTON vise from one of the members. Was able to do a restoration on it today. Very smooth operation-- one finger is all you need. Next project on list is a Black & Decker 10 inch grinder!

 

[va.grouseman]

Econ,---There is an index of vises in the VISE REPAIR 101, thread, but the pages all refer to vises in the VISES OF GARAGE JOURNAL thread.---So you look up the vise and page # on the Repair thread and then go to the Vises thread to see a pic of it.---Oh so simple.

And to they are not on sequential pages.---The index starts on page 2, jumps to page 5, then to page 22.---I'm sure this will thoroughly confuse you.---Oh, it is not an exhaustive index.---But it's a work in progress.

 

[bigcaddy]

Looking at your family photo the ones I can see have the Craftsman badge with your 5198 having the cast in lettering. Guessing the badged versions are a newer style, any idea when this took place?

No, I'm not really sure. I've already let a few 51xx vises go and never wrote them down so I don't have the info to compare to a current collection.

Maybe if the members of the 51xx club post dates and logo info (raised letters vs. aluminum badge), we could get a general idea of when the switch happened

 

[econotrk]

An old ad shows that to be a 4" vise and weighs 76 lbs. That's pretty stout for a 4 incher, but the price is nuts. I'd expect it to be under $100.

Fixed it for you but

Thanks for the confirmation, sometimes one needs to be talked off the ledge. But I still really want it, sigh.

Econ,---There is an index of vises in the VISE REPAIR 101, thread, but the pages all refer to vises in the VISES OF GARAGE JOURNAL thread.---So you look up the vise and page # on the Repair thread and then go to the Vises thread to see a pic of it.---Oh so simple.

And to they are not on sequential pages.---The index starts on page 2, jumps to page 5, then to page 22.---I'm sure this will thoroughly confuse you.---Oh, it is not an exhaustive index.---But it's a work in progress.

Thanks VA

No, I'm not really sure. I've already let a few 51xx vises go and never wrote them down so I don't have the info to compare to a current collection.

Maybe if the members of the 51xx club post dates and logo info (raised letters vs. aluminum badge), we could get a general idea of when the switch happened

I'll gladly start. 5198 badge 3-54