My 2-Car Porcelain Tile Install....

[Dakota00]

Ideally, unglazed tiles is what you want in a working garage, but there's nothing wrong with using glazed tiles as many on this forum have done so with no issues.
Watch a few videos on youtube to get an idea what's involved in laying tiles. You will need to lay down the thinset on the substrate, and back butter the tiles. This application will eliminate all voids (air pockets) under the tiles when being installed.

 

[GKreamer]

Thanks for the info. I've laid tiles several times (kitchen/dining room floor, bathrooms and a back splash that needs grouting) but I've never done both thinset on the concrete board and back butter tiles. I've never done a room this large though. I'll be sure to follow your directions. Thanks!

 

[Aggie 2002]

This is amazing. Tagging along as I am about to move into my house and really want to tile. Great job!!

 

[bzinsky]

Just a thought for a garage, I actually made some tile counters in an experiment. I used 24" tiles so I could just have 1 tile front to back. I butted them together with 0 spacing. I tried epoxy grout because I figured normal grout wouldn't stand a chance with no gap.

Epoxy grout is some serious stuff, it should just be called "colored epoxy that can be used as grout"

In habit I wasn't worried about leaving a little during the wipe down phase, big mistake. The haze on top took hours with a razor blade.

Totally water proof/stain proof/grenade proof. Would be perfect to use in a garage floor. You could probably spill a gallon of oil on it, let it sit for 2 years, and then wipe it up like it was never there. More time consuming though than regular grout. If you take your time like you can with regular grout, it will be unworkable in 20-30 minutes. You have to do it very fast. I was sitting there I think at around 60 minutes going absolutely bonkers trying to wipe it up because it was drying fast and if you don't remove it then it's not coming off. Have nightmares from trying to scrub it off half dry lol.

 

[slickgt1]

Just a thought for a garage, I actually made some tile counters in an experiment. I used 24" tiles so I could just have 1 tile front to back. I butted them together with 0 spacing. I tried epoxy grout because I figured normal grout wouldn't stand a chance with no gap.

Epoxy grout is some serious stuff, it should just be called "colored epoxy that can be used as grout"

In habit I wasn't worried about leaving a little during the wipe down phase, big mistake. The haze on top took hours with a razor blade.

Totally water proof/stain proof/grenade proof. Would be perfect to use in a garage floor. You could probably spill a gallon of oil on it, let it sit for 2 years, and then wipe it up like it was never there. More time consuming though than regular grout. If you take your time like you can with regular grout, it will be unworkable in 20-30 minutes. You have to do it very fast. I was sitting there I think at around 60 minutes going absolutely bonkers trying to wipe it up because it was drying fast and if you don't remove it then it's not coming off. Have nightmares from trying to scrub it off half dry lol.

Yea i have epoxy grout in my garage. And i have spilled a nearly 5 gal bucket of every oil from my car. By the time i cleaned it up, and i used the clothes off my back for this, cause i ran out of everything else, i thought my grout was done for. Nope, still good.

 

[Merccooper]

You have provided great details, very much appreciated! Your floor (and garage) looks awesome! I came across your thread via OJ Bartley and your posts to my questions. I'm glad I came across it. I hope you are willing to answer a few more questions, but first, I got a little chuckle out of the picture on post 213 where it almost looks like you are using a box cutter to cut out the porcelain where the car stand is bolted down.

You have provided plenty of proof that porcelain has major advantages. Although I don't have epoxy, race deck or any other coating (even paint) at this point, I would be hesitant to even think about putting all that drywall and garage (post 219) on one of those three applications. Since I am not the most attentive of cautious guy when it comes to taking care of things, I think porcelain maybe the route for me.

If you were to guesstamate, how much per sqf do you think it cost you (excluding the aqua defence)?

 

[Dakota00]

If you were to guesstamate, how much per sqf do you think it cost you (excluding the aqua defence)?

Using (top of the line) porcelain tiles, plus high quality thinset and latex additive, plus grout and with the edge protector. This is with my discount price through my suppliers. I'm right at $3.00(cdn)/sq.ft

 

[Rod N]

That's pretty much what mine was too.

 

[OJ Bartley]

If I had to guess quickly I'd say I was probably closer to $4.00 psf, paying retail and using cheap tiles with high quality thinset/additive/grout.

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[wrnchtwstr]

Hello Dakota. Your shop looks awesome with those tiles. Love your color choice. Your info on porcelain floors has answered my questions on which would hold up better, epoxy or porcelain. I was surprised to learn how strong those tile are. There is no question now what I will be doing on my shop rehab. Thank again, and keep us up to date on your tile info. Your thread gets a big gold star in my books.

 

[JohnnieMo]

I'm really happy I stumbled across this thread. Your floor looks like a showroom.

I have concerns about epoxy, and I don't like the idea of dirt and sawdust getting through a plastic floor covering.... but tiling is something I already know how to do!

 

[Dakota00]

Thanks guys for the compliments, much appreciated!!

Seeing as how my thread was bumped up, I'll take the opportunity to post a pic of when I was swapping the summer wheels for the winter ones just recently...

View media item 46157

 

[michael9218]

Can tile be put over a floor that has been treated with a densifier sealer?

 

[TrapperJ]

Can tile be put over a floor that has been treated with a densifier sealer?

This is the right thread to post up that question. The OP knows what's what it seems with tile over concrete. I too have this same question. I believe I know the answer but I'll wait for the expert.

 

[Dakota00]

Can tile be put over a floor that has been treated with a densifier sealer?

You can install tiles directly on densified concrete.

 

[Ballistic Jello]

I will cut you a break here and break the chain by NOT asking a question, just thanks for sharing all the information you have already, and the floor looks damn good. You have educated the masses on the suitability of tile for shop floors.

 

[michael9218]

You can install tiles directly on densified concrete.

Dakota, thanks for the reply. Does your answer also incude a densifier with siliconate or silicone?

 

[Dakota00]

Dakota, thanks for the reply. Does your answer also incude a densifier with siliconate or silicone?

Yes, as long as the slab is properly prepped and the proper thinset is used. Is the slab high polished? If so, I recommend grinding the surface to rough up the finish, this will aid the thinset in adhering better.

Having a concrete slab sealed can be a bonus... When installing tiles, an unsealed slab will draw a lot of moisture from the thinset. Some cases sucking too much water, resulting in poor adhesion. Instead of the thinset curing properly, it would be dried out instead.

 

[Track t-4]

Dakota,
I noticed you added a latex additive to your thinset. I am ready to use Flexbond with 12"x24" porcelain tile, should I use the latex additive? The garage is heated/AC and is used for occasional-drive cars. What is the purpose of using the latex?

 

[Dakota00]

Track,

Flexbond is a "modified" thinset which doesn't require a latex additive.

The Kerabond/Keralastic system I used, basically turns an "unmodified" thinset (Kerabond) to "modified" when the latex (Keralastic) is added.
The purpose of the latex, it will increase the bond strength, flex strength, elongation and freeze/thaw durability.

 

[Track t-4]

Thanks!

 

[duneslider]

Flexbond is actually a pretty decent thinset for the money.

 

[[email protected]]

porcelain tile: glazed or un-glazed? any suggestions on how to move water heater off floor during work?

 

[Dakota00]

Through body, unglazed tiles... Contact a plumber regarding the water heater.

 

[Mpowered]

I'm sold on a porcelain tile garage based on this thread alone! looks really awesome.

What considerations do I need to take into account if I'm installing the tile over the course of a few days like you've done here, applying grout or what not.

Obv you'll need to remove the thinset as best you can around the tiles when you are done putting them down for the day, but can you grout when the entire floor isn't down yet?

Thanks!

 

[Rod N]

Don't go easy on her when it's done!

 

[cavediver]

What level of "flatness" is required before laying tile?

I have ~1/4-3/8" variation in the surface of my concrete floor over an area of about 4-6 feet (a low spot that collects melting snow/water). I also have another low spot right along the bottom of the garage door seal so it doesn't close as tightly as I wish.

Can this variation be accommodated and corrected properly with thinset when setting the tiles or should I be using a Self Leveling compound first?

When using SLC's how "thin" can you taper the edge to before it becomes weak and chips off or delaminates from the base if you were to apply force (Drive, or walk on it)?

Great Install and Thread BTW - Thanks for your advice!

 

[Dakota00]

Obv you'll need to remove the thinset as best you can around the tiles when you are done putting them down for the day, but can you grout when the entire floor isn't down yet?

Thanks!

Sure you can grout in stages, but it would be best "if possible" to grout in one session. In doing so it would result for a more uniform color and overall better grout finish.

Can this variation be accommodated and corrected properly with thinset when setting the tiles or should I be using a Self Leveling compound first?

When using SLC's how "thin" can you taper the edge to before it becomes weak and chips off or delaminates from the base if you were to apply force (Drive, or walk on it)?

Great Install and Thread BTW - Thanks for your advice!

Some variations can be corrected while tiling. Best course of action especially for a newbie would be to correct the low spots before hand. Personally I'm not a big fan of SLC's, I've had issues before of chipping and delaminating. I usually thin out the thinset instead to fill the low spots. The edges I taper down close to zero where needed, I never had an issue.

 

[newbinga]

I was just wondering when you did half the install how did you spread the thinset? If it spreads past your installed tiles, then it dries, how does that work when you come back?

Or did you have a line where your tile was going to end and put thinset to that line?

Never laid tile, just curiois

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[duneslider]

What level of "flatness" is required before laying tile?

I have ~1/4-3/8" variation in the surface of my concrete floor over an area of about 4-6 feet (a low spot that collects melting snow/water). I also have another low spot right along the bottom of the garage door seal so it doesn't close as tightly as I wish.

Can this variation be accommodated and corrected properly with thinset when setting the tiles or should I be using a Self Leveling compound first?

When using SLC's how "thin" can you taper the edge to before it becomes weak and chips off or delaminates from the base if you were to apply force (Drive, or walk on it)?

Great Install and Thread BTW - Thanks for your advice!

SLC's will create LEVEL, most garage floors are not LEVEL, they slope to the door. So, an SLC would be a bad idea. When properly used SLC's are great but not a good idea in a garage.

The flatter the floor before you start the better your life will be. You can use thinset or other cement based floor patches to fix low spots before tiling. I use thinset a lot for this unless the low spots are really low. The standard for flatness is 1/4" in 10'. I prefer better then that though. It really does make life better the flatter it is. If you just have one or two low spots it shouldn't be tough to fill it and make it nice. If you have a really out of flat floor you might want to consider grinding the whole thing flat before tiling.

 

[duneslider]

I was just wondering when you did half the install how did you spread the thinset? If it spreads past your installed tiles, then it dries, how does that work when you come back?

Or did you have a line where your tile was going to end and put thinset to that line?

Never laid tile, just curiois

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You only spread a little bit at a time. For a beginner I would say only what you can set in say 5-10 minutes, that might only be 2-3 tiles.

 

[Dakota00]

For those who don't know, "duneslider" is a pro Tile Setter like myself. He's speaking from experience!

 

[MotecM]

For anyone looking to recreate this floor, here is the current link to the manufacture site: http://www.olympiatile.com/product/series/236/omnia_series

See post #74 in this thread for the colors used.

 

[OJ Bartley]

Newbinga, part of the reason I was going so slow on my floor is that I was doing one at a time... Spreading, then setting, over and over. It wasn't until my last section that I clued in and spread enough thinset to do 2 or 3 tiles. D'oh!

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[duneslider]

Newbinga, part of the reason I was going so slow on my floor is that I was doing one at a time... Spreading, then setting, over and over. It wasn't until my last section that I clued in and spread enough thinset to do 2 or 3 tiles. D'oh!

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Better safe than sorry. If the thinset skins over you may think it was just fine but the bond will be bad and could come up down the road. Do one at a time and know it is good and don't feel bad if you have to scrape some off the floor because you are worried it might has skinned over.

 

[duneslider]

For those who don't know, "duneslider" is a pro Tile Setter like myself. He's speaking from experience!

I am mostly just an amateur now, I do very little tile work for pay now days. I did do tile professionally for about 15yrs and owned my own company for about 5 of that. I am a very passionate tile nerd though. I still try to keep up with the new technology coming into the industry but there have been a lot of really great advances in the last few years so it is difficult to keep up.

I made a lot of money fixing screwed up tile jobs (mostly waterproofing issues and cracking floors) so I am pretty passionate about making sure people have the right information to do a job right the first time. (by the way, most the screw-ups were done by other "professionals" and not by DIY'ers)

 

[Dakota00]

I was going to phrase it "was" a Tile Setter, I remember you told me you were out of the game. You know the trade very well and you will still remain as a pro!!

I'm not tiling full time anymore either, but I'm still doing it on the side. Got a great job offer, which would've been stupid not to take.
I hear you on fixing these so called "professional" jobs. I've seen and fixed so many screw-ups over the years, it's not funny!

 

[Dakota00]

Current state my garage floor looks like... I hate f-ing winter!!!

View media item 48755

 

[slickgt1]

Dude that's nothing. My checkers look like solid brown. I hate this ****. But too cold to open door and wash it out.

 

[OJ Bartley]

That salty mess looks familiar, Dakota! The nice thing to me is that even 2 mins with a pushbroom gets the worst of it out.

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