The Best Light Fixture Ever!

[Platonic Solid]

I have a 4 car garage with 8ft ceilings that measures 50x25 with a dividing wall down the middle (basically two 25x25 garages that are connected. In one half there are 3 rows of four 4' fixtures parallel with the parking spaces and another row of four 4' fixtures along the front. I converted the 2 bulb 4' T12 housing to T8 using GE 71037 GE232-120RES-DIY ballasts. I fitted them with Litetronics L-359 - F32T8CB50 bulbs. I really like the amount & color of the lighting and I'm currently gathering what I need to put lights in the other half of the garage that currently doesn't have anything but a few cheap hanging fixtures. I've found some new fixtures locally on CL and plan to change the ballasts in those.

After looking over your spreadsheet it appears that the QHE2x32T8/UNV ISM-SC ballasts might be a better way to go...especially since I can find them for $16 vs $21 for the GE's that I used previously. When I'm trying to compare different combinations on your spreadsheet I'm not sure what to do about Watts. From your calculations it appears that you used 53W from a chart on the Quicktronic spec sheet showing input watts with a F028/SS type bulb in a chart labled "Lamp Striation Control". But when I look up the bulb listed in your chart along with the above ballast it says it is a 28W bulb. And the ballast spec sheet itself on the first page under a 2 lamp system with 2-F032T8/XPS lamps lists 63W.

I'll admit I don't know what I'm doing but depending on what wattage figure I use the results are different so I'm not sure how to correctly compare the ballasts & lamps. I'm trying to decide whether I should use the same ballast & lamps as I did previously, use the ballast you listed with the same lamps I did previously so the lighting is the same (although different BF factor may be different anyway) or if I could use the ballast you listed and maybe some 5000K bulbs similar to the 4100K you listed?

Let me know if this answers your questions:

Current System:

GE 71037 GE232-120RES-DIY
Instant Start
Class B Residential
Ballast Factor = 0.83
Power Factor >= 5% ## (that's beyond bad, it's wrong)
## If W=V*A*PF, them PF=W/(V*A) thus 53W/(120*0.81)= 55%PF
## (still poor, but realistic for a residential Class B Ballast)
THD <= 145% (another hard to swallow unbelievable figure)

2 F32T8 Lamp System Watts = 53W (97VA)
2 F28T8 Lamp System Watts = 46w (86VA)

Litetronics F32T8CB50
Life: 30,000-36,000 HRS
5000K
2975 MEAN LM

2975lm x 2 lamps = 5950lm x 0.83bf = 4938 system lumens (53W)(97VA)
- - - - - - -
Proposed:

Sylvania 49248 QHE2x32T8/UNV ISM-SC
Instant Start
Class A Commercial
Ballast Factor = 1.00
Power Factor >98%
THD <10%

2 F32T8 Lamp System Watts = 63W (120V*0.54A*0.98PF) (65VA)
2 F028/SS Lamp System Watts = 52W (120V*0.44A*0.98PF) (53VA)

Philips 281287 F32T8 28W ADV850 XLL ALTO
Life: 40,000-46,000 HRS
5000K
2545 MEAN LM

2545lm x 2 Lamps = 5090lm x 1.00bf = 5090 system lumens (52W)(53VA)
- - - - - - -
Note: If you buy Sylvania lamps, both ballasts and lamps are covered for 60 months by Sylvania's warranty if you fill out their warranty registration within 30 days after installation.
- - - - - - -
Related Links:
Power Factor
THD

 

[Platonic Solid]

Updated All Price Links on Spreadsheet and added a couple more fluorescent lamps: Lighting System Comparison

Also added links at bottom to 60 month and 84 month System Warranty.

 

[Platonic Solid]

How to build a 7 year warrantied tandem 8ft 4 lamp fixture on a budget:
(I posted this in another thread and didn't want to lose the effort)

This Cooper Lighting 4 Ft. 2-Lamp Standard Striplight T12 = $16.85 ea. (Lowes will price match)

cut ballast leads - remove ballast from fixture - replace with

Ballast: SYLVANIA QHE4X32T8/UNV PSH-HT, Item No. 49455 for $29.85 (One 4 lamp ballast to operate 2 above strip lights)

Lamps: 84,000 hr SYLVANIA 22167 FO28/841XP/XL/SS/ECO3 here for $5.60 ea. and you qualify for the 7 year Quick 7XL+ Warranty here: Sylvania Warranty if you fill out their warranty registration within 30 days after installation.

If you go this route, you'll want a few of these Ideal 30-1033 Push-In Connectors - package of 300 here: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ideal-In...Standard-Package-is-3-Bags-30-1033P/203734781

and a box of 3/8-in connectors to tie the fixtures together: http://www.lowes.com/pd_44996-15527-C-500_0__?Ntt=44996&UserSearch=44996&productId=1087221&rpp=48

End result: a 12,500Lm 4 lamp 8ft strip light, 100L/W, 85CRI, about 140lm per dollar, less than $100 per fixture (including lamps).
(Yes you can buy cheaper fixtures, but no where near these specs and certainly not with a 7 year lamp and ballast warranty).

 

[PushnFords]

Let me know if this answers your questions:

- - - - - - -
Proposed:

Sylvania 49428 QHE2x32T8/UNV ISM-SC
Instant Start
Class A Commercial
Ballast Factor = 1.00
Power Factor >98%
THD <10%

2 F32T8 Lamp System Watts = 63W (120V*0.54A*0.98PF) (65VA)
2 F028/SS Lamp System Watts = 52W (120V*0.44A*0.98PF) (53VA)

Philips 281287 F32T8 28W ADV850 XLL ALTO
Life: 40,000-46,000 HRS
5000K
2545 MEAN LM

2545lm x 2 Lamps = 5090lm x 1.00bf = 5090 system lumens (52W)(53VA)
- - - - - - -
Note: If you buy Sylvania lamps, both ballasts and lamps are covered for 60 months by Sylvania's warranty if you fill out their warranty registration within 30 days after installation.
- - - - - - -
Related Links:
Power Factor
THD

Should that be 49248? I found some listed at a wholesale place for $12/ea so I'd like to grab them while I can. Also found 17 new fixtures with Sylvania 277V ballasts for $10/ea I'm trying to grab. Save a few bucks where I can.

Thanks for the information!

 

[Platonic Solid]

Should that be 49248? I found some listed at a wholesale place for $12/ea so I'd like to grab them while I can. Also found 17 new fixtures with Sylvania 277V ballasts for $10/ea I'm trying to grab. Save a few bucks where I can.

Thanks for the information!

You are correct. I fixed the typo in original post.

 

[Platonic Solid]

How to build a 7 year warrantied tandem 8ft 4 lamp fixture on a budget (con't.)

Here are 2 wiring diagram options:

Wiring Option 1 (uses 14 push-in connectors, but may be easier to follow)

Wiring Option 2 (uses 10 push-in connectors and available lampholder connections)

The ballast supplied with the original Cooper fixture linked in post #83 isn't even worth giving away for free, so cut leads as soon as they exit the ballast to give you the most wire possible to work with.

Strip all wires 3/8"-1/2". Leave some slack in all wires. Do not leave coils of wire as that will increase RFI.

For your first fixture, loosely connect all terminations with wirenuts to make sure you've got everything right before committing to the permanent push-in connectors. Bench test all fixtures before mounting (temporarily wirenut 2 halves together).

Mount or hang each 4ft. section independently, then join and finish wiring via "post-mounting wiring diagram".

 

[OJ Bartley]

Thanks for all of your input, Platonic. Very helpful, and very much appreciated. I'll save this and look back when I'm ready to do lighting.

 

[Spooling]

Platonic, for this custom fixture, are you pretty much taking a cheap fixture for the connectors and enclosure, then putting a high quality ballast and lights into it? If you had to do 4' T8 strips is there a different ballast you could spec?

I'm having trouble finding any super cheap fixtures like you guys are able to source in the US. (I'm located in Canada) The cheapest I can find seems to be around $40 bucks CDN. Is it still worth gutting it at that price? (Lithonia MNS8 2 32 120 RE M6)

 

[Platonic Solid]

Platonic, for this custom fixture, are you pretty much taking a cheap fixture for the connectors and enclosure, then putting a high quality ballast and lights into it?

You got it.

If you had to do 4' T8 strips is there a different ballast you could spec?

That's what the Lighting System Comparison spreadsheet is for.

I'm having trouble finding any super cheap fixtures like you guys are able to source in the US. (I'm located in Canada) The cheapest I can find seems to be around $40 bucks CDN. Is it still worth gutting it at that price? (Lithonia MNS8 2 32 120 RE M6)

That's $32 U.S. That fixture is sold at Home Depot here in the U.S. for $25 ($31 CDN). Plus it uses custom lamp holders and the lamps are too close together = not a good candidate for upgrade. Keep looking.

 

[Spooling]

How about this one?

C 2 32 MVOLT GEB10IS

Lithonia again, $38 CDN.

 

[Platonic Solid]

That's better. Here's their spec sheet. Dang - just reading their spec sheet and they only give a 1 yr warranty. Must be a seriously crappy ballast. Major brand ballasts come with 5 yr warranties standard.

 

[DC73]

That's better. Here's their spec sheet. Dang - just reading their spec sheet and they only give a 1 yr warranty. Must be a seriously crappy ballast. Major brand ballasts come with 5 yr warranties standard.

Are there any T8 2-lamp fixtures available that come with a quality ballast like recommended in your spreadsheet?

DC

 

[Platonic Solid]

Are there any T8 2-lamp fixtures available that come with a quality ballast like recommended in your spreadsheet?

DC

Not off-the-shelf. You can however special order anything you want. It's a very common practice for customers to specify exactly what they want beyond what is offered on any manufacturers spec sheet. Naturally, it comes at a cost and you might have to wait 3 months to get them.

 

[Spooling]

So if I were to end up going with the $38 Lithonia, my total cost for a 2 lamp fixture would be $72 CDN including the lights. For a 4 lamp fixture it would be $143 CDN. The balast to drive 4 lights costs pretty much double the one recommended to drive 2 lights.

I think this seams reasonable considering the end quality of the fixture and lamps?

 

[Spooling]

damn, just noticed those bulbs need 60F to run. That won't work for me. My garage will get pretty cold in the winter.

 

[Platonic Solid]

damn, just noticed those bulbs need 60F to run. That won't work for me. My garage will get pretty cold in the winter.

That only applies to the 28W version, go with full 32W and you're good to go: 21577 FO32/841/XP/XL/ECO3 $6.56ea. U.S.

 

[Spooling]

Thanks!

What ballast would I need for a 2 light setup? I can locally source a 49497, but not a 49498. Is there a difference? I presume the 32 watt versions would be much brighter too, which would be great!

Also, I just looked online and the Lowes just across the border has those SSF240 fixtures for $20!! I think it's time to make a run for the border.

 

[cybrdyke]

49498 & 49497 are the same ballast in different packaging.
CD

 

[Platonic Solid]

Also, I just looked online and the Lowes just across the border has those SSF240 fixtures for $20!! I think it's time to make a run for the border.

You don't actually need to wait for a "sale" if you print out the page from fleetfarrm and have Lowes price match.

 

[zable9]

Thx for your time, effort and help Planticsold, appreciate it

 

[Redwolf947]

Here's an Excel viewer if you don't have Excel:
http://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=10
Spreadsheet was created in Excel 2010 and has xlsx extension.

You should Add this to the First post. Might save some a little time for others

 

[Platonic Solid]

Done. Also added: open and edit in Google Sheets.

 

[Spooling]

You don't actually need to wait for a "sale" if you print out the page from fleetfarrm and have Lowes price match.

Good point! I'll see if I can get a discount with the flyer as well.

Platonic, what ballast should I try to source for the FO32/841/XP/XL/ECO3 lamps? Are those lamps good down to -20c?

I was also considering going with the last flourescent option in your spreadsheet with the F32T8 ADV941 ALTO which are shown to be good down to -20c and throw a lot of light.

I'm not sure how easy it will be for me to source either of these lamps in Canada. I can at least see the FO32 listed on a local electrical supplier's web site. I'll give them a call Monday to check to see if they can get them.

It looks like my local electrical shop has a lot of the FO32/841/ECO's so that could be an option I may consider as well.

 

[Platonic Solid]

Are those lamps good down to -20c?

I don't think so. The 21577 FO32/841/XP/XL/ECO3 spec sheet doesn't make any claim of what the 32W starting temperature is, they only talk about the 28W and 25W being 60°F, thus I have to assume Sylvania's statements on other spec sheets applies:
"Operation below 50°F may affect lumen output or lamp operation."
"For cold temperature applications, use in enclosed fixture or use tube guard to maximize lamp performance."

Looks like 21781 FO32/841/ECO is your best choice, which pushes you down to a 5yr warranty.

what ballast should I try to source ...

The ballast shown in the spread sheet paired with the 21781 will maintain the 5yr warranty.

I was also considering going with the last flourescent option in your spreadsheet with the F32T8 ADV841 ALTO which are shown to be good down to -20c and throw a lot of light.

Stick with the 21781: Longer life + lower price.

Note: If you really need full light output at -20°C, you'd be better off going for LED.

 

[OJ Bartley]

I picked up 4 of these Lithonia 3348 fixtures when they were on sale for $20 at Rona this weekend: http://www.rona.ca/en/fixture---32-w-wraparound-light-fixture

They tend to have pretty consistent reviews for being the cheaply made and flimsy, but I figure I can always upgrade the ballasts if I need to, as well as the sockets (even though I did see one comment that they had to be drilled out). I'm just going to hope for the best, that they all work out of the box after my electrician can get out to run wire to 4 new junction boxes for me, and take it from there. At least I have this guide to rescue me if I need to fix them.

 

[DC73]

Anyone use fixtures from or know anything about Howard Lighting?

I'm considering their RW24 wrap fixture. We get a lot of dust around here and I think having the lens will help to keep the lamps clean. I know it may hurt the light output somewhat but if I don't like them, I suppose I could always just remove the lens.

Could I get some help in evaluating these from some of the experts?

Here's the links:

Fixture: http://howard-lighting.com/Selection.aspx?CategoryID=42

Fixture Spec Sheet: http://howard-lighting.com/Documents/SpecSheets/Fixture/LinearFluorescent/RW24.pdf

Ballast: http://howard-lighting.com/Selection.aspx?CategoryID=64

Ballast Spec Sheet: http://howard-lighting.com/Documents/SpecSheets/Ballast/ElectronicFluorescent/E2-32ISS-120RES.pdf

Although I couldn't find the info anywhere on their website, I confirmed by email which ballast was to be installed in the fixture.

Also it looks like these fixtures can be had for about $44 each (delivered) while the 2-lamp strips go for about $40.

Any thoughts about their other fixtures (traditional strips) and ballasts?

Thanks for the help.

DC

 

[CooperS]

Wow! This is a lot of info I don't understand just yet, but great to have none the less. Thanks for such a detailed post! So what are the thoughts on lights with lenses or diffusers. Are exposed bulbs the better way to go in the garage?

 

[Platonic Solid]

Anyone use fixtures from or know anything about Howard Lighting?

I'm considering their RW24 wrap fixture. We get a lot of dust around here and I think having the lens will help to keep the lamps clean. I know it may hurt the light output somewhat but if I don't like them, I suppose I could always just remove the lens.

Howard has been in the ballast business for a long time. I didn't even know they made fixtures till you posted this. I suspect they're probably buying the enclosures from an OEM enclosure supplier. Without first hand experience I would expect the quality to be on par with Lithonia and Metalux.

For dust issues, you'd be better off going with a tighter, easy to clean fixture like the Lithonia DMW style.

or simply vacuuming the bulbs on a regular basis works too.

 

[cybrdyke]

Howard is a transformer company that started making lighting ballasts sometime in the 90's, if I recall correctly. They are most famous for being guilty of the largest case of employing illegal aliens in US history. They got busted hiring, harboring and then denying that over 600 illegal aliens were working in their factories and paid millions of dollars in fines. They are generally considered to be the low end of the totem pole in lighting products, but the higher end of the totem pole in oil-filled utility grade transformers.
CD

 

[Platonic Solid]

Wow! This is a lot of info I don't understand just yet, but great to have none the less. Thanks for such a detailed post! So what are the thoughts on lights with lenses or diffusers. Are exposed bulbs the better way to go in the garage?

Fixtures mounted within 8 ft of floor should have diffusers (aka: wrapped) for safety. Wraps can be used above 9 ft, usually for aesthetic reasons. Either way you'll want to figure in about 10% lumen loss.

 

[DC73]

Howard has been in the ballast business for a long time. I didn't even know they made fixtures till you posted this.

For dust issues, you'd be better off going with a tighter, easy to clean fixture like the Lithonia DMW style.

or simply vacuuming the bulbs on a regular basis works too.

That vaportite Lithonia is about twice what I want to pay for a fixture but I have considered them. How much light would I lose because of the diffuser?

They are generally considered to be the low end of the totem pole in lighting products, but the higher end of the totem pole in oil-filled utility grade transformers.
CD

Thanks to both of you for the help. I've been trying to find a 2-lamp T8 fixture with a quality ballast for around $50 but haven't had much luck. Do the specs on the Howard ballasts look okay? I thought maybe since they were offering a 5 year warranty, etc, it might be worth a shot.

DC

 

[cybrdyke]

Fluorescent lamps create a magnetic field that attracts dust very well. They can get a thick layer on them that will only come off with a damp cloth, which we all know will never happen. You could use LED lamps that dont have this issue, but will still accumulate whatever dust lands on them.
Some wrap fixtures have the lenses loosely mounted. There can be wide spaces for dust to get into and the magnetic field will pull the dust in. If the lens is tightly mounted and there are minimal openings, then it should minimize dust accumulation. A vapor tight fixture would be the best option for keeping dust off the lamps, however...I have seen dust accumulate on the outside of the lenses of vapor tight fixtures, too. It can be that strong! But a quick wipe down will clean that up.
That ballast is weird. 50% power factor is unacceptable for commercial use, but will likely be OK for residential use at 120v. .80 ballast factor is 10% lower than normal, meaning that you will get 10% less light out of your lamps than normal (multiply bare lamp lumens x BF for this figure). Also, it's instant start, which is OK, but the lamps are wired in series, which is odd. If one lamp burns out, the other wont light either. Parallel wiring in lamps is the norm with instant start ballasts. None of this means that it's a bad ballast or that you wont be happy with the fixture for many years. Just teckie stuff.....since you asked.
Good luck.
CD

 

[DC73]

Fluorescent lamps create a magnetic field that attracts dust very well. They can get a thick layer on them that will only come off with a damp cloth, which we all know will never happen. You could use LED lamps that dont have this issue, but will still accumulate whatever dust lands on them.
Some wrap fixtures have the lenses loosely mounted. There can be wide spaces for dust to get into and the magnetic field will pull the dust in. If the lens is tightly mounted and there are minimal openings, then it should minimize dust accumulation. A vapor tight fixture would be the best option for keeping dust off the lamps, however...I have seen dust accumulate on the outside of the lenses of vapor tight fixtures, too. It can be that strong! But a quick wipe down will clean that up.
That ballast is weird. 50% power factor is unacceptable for commercial use, but will likely be OK for residential use at 120v. .80 ballast factor is 10% lower than normal, meaning that you will get 10% less light out of your lamps than normal (multiply bare lamp lumens x BF for this figure). Also, it's instant start, which is OK, but the lamps are wired in series, which is odd. If one lamp burns out, the other wont light either. Parallel wiring in lamps is the norm with instant start ballasts. None of this means that it's a bad ballast or that you wont be happy with the fixture for many years. Just teckie stuff.....since you asked.
Good luck.
CD

Thanks for the input. Maybe wrap lights aren't the answer. The dust around here is bad enough at times to coat the bulb inside a refrigerator so there's probably no hope of me keeping a clean fixture absent routine maintenance. Vaportite might be the best answer if I could find something a little more affordable (I need 20 of the things). How much do the vaportite fixtures reduce the light output?

Appreciate the "teckie" stuff. They do have other ballasts including a comparable parallel ballast. Just can't find enough information about them to sway me in their direction at this time, but I also don't like any of the other choices I've found. It's either cheap junk or high end commercial but no real good choices for residential garages. I guess the suggestion in this thread to buy cheap fixtures and throw away the ballasts was on the mark.

DC

 

[cybrdyke]

If that's an option for you, then there's also "instantfit" type LED tubes as well. Just use these lamps with the T8 ballast instead of glass lamps. Much easier because if you remove the ballast, you'll likely have to change the sockets, too. What a pain.
These types of lamps are sold at HD in Cree and in Philips, as well as at local electrical houses.
CD

 

[padstack]

If that's an option for you, then there's also "instantfit" type LED tubes as well. Just use these lamps with the T8 ballast instead of glass lamps. Much easier because if you remove the ballast, you'll likely have to change the sockets, too. What a pain.
These types of lamps are sold at HD in Cree and in Philips, as well as at local electrical houses.
CD

If going to LED, why would he need to change the sockets if pulling the ballast? Doesn't the majority of fixtures come with non-shunted sockets now? Even my cheap-o fixtures from Lowes for $13 each had them.

 

[cybrdyke]

If going to LED, why would he need to change the sockets if pulling the ballast? Doesn't the majority of fixtures come with non-shunted sockets now? Even my cheap-o fixtures from Lowes for $13 each had them.

Almost all new T8 fixtures come with "Circle I" rated, shunted sockets. UL1598 gives the manufacturers a choice of either providing a ballast with arc sensing capabilities (expensive) or the Circle I sockets (cheap). So most choose to use the sockets. There are, of course, exceptions.
T12 fixtures all come with non shunted sockets, also commonly called "Rapid Start" sockets. If you were to buy a cheapo T12 fixture, you could then remove the ballast and you would have the correct sockets for bypass LED tubes.
If we really wanted to get technical about strictly following UL requirements, ballast bypass LED tubes are considered a "retrofit kit", not a lamp, and so they MUST be installed by a licensed electrician. Instant fit type LED tubes are considered "lamps", and can be installed by anyone.
Again, more teckie mumbo jumbo that may or may not make a difference in a residential garage, but for those on this forum with commercial spaces, it's kind of a big deal.
Good luck
CD

 

[PipeLayaz]

Perhaps the OP could consolidate some of this info and make a sticky? Seems sticky worthy to me. Lots of good info in here!

 

[Platonic Solid]

...That ballast is weird. 50% power factor is unacceptable for commercial use, but will likely be OK for residential use at 120v. .80 ballast factor is 10% lower than normal, meaning that you will get 10% less light out of your lamps than normal (multiply bare lamp lumens x BF for this figure). Also, it's instant start, which is OK, but the lamps are wired in series, which is odd. If one lamp burns out, the other wont light either. Parallel wiring in lamps is the norm with instant start ballasts. ...

It appears that most residential ballasts have terrible power factors in order to meet Class B residential RFI requirements. Since residential customers pay for kWh (kilowatt hours) and not kVA (kilovolt amps) the terrible 50% power factor has no effect on your electric bill.

... Vaportite might be the best answer if I could find something a little more affordable (I need 20 of the things). How much do the vaportite fixtures reduce the light output?

Assume 10% lumen loss through the diffuser.
The cheapest vaportight enclosure I could find online is the "Louvers Intl. LILPS-CU4" @ $46.95
This is just an enclosure for a strip fixture (not included). (This is not a recommendation, just an observation.)

Almost all new T8 fixtures come with "Circle I" rated, shunted sockets. UL1598 gives the manufacturers a choice of either providing a ballast with arc sensing capabilities (expensive) or the Circle I sockets (cheap). ...

It's important to note that this applies only to "Instant Start" ballasts, not to "Programmed Rapid Start" electronic ballasts which require non-shunted lamp sockets. The arc sensing capability rating (for Instant Start ballasts only) is AKA: UL "Type CC".
Also worth noting that they do not make non-shunted lamp sockets with "Circle I" rating.

This brings up a good point that I'll have to address in the spreadsheet: Since none of the Instant Start ballasts listed in the spreadsheet are Type CC, they should not be used with non-shunted lamp sockets.

For now here's a list of Type CC rated Instant Start ballast equivalents that can be used with non-shunted lamp sockets: (you will need to externally shunt the lamp sockets)

Instant Start Type CC Equivalent for 49840 = 49368
Instant Start Type CC Equivalent for 49865 = 49367
Instant Start Type CC Equivalent for 49248 = none found
Instant Start Type CC Equivalent for 49498 = 49783
Instant Start Type CC Equivalent for 49853 = 49383

 

[cybrdyke]

It appears that most residential ballasts have terrible power factors in order to meet Class B residential RFI requirements. Since residential customers pay for kWh (kilowatt hours) and not kVA (kilovolt amps) the terrible 50% power factor has no effect on your electric bill.

Assume 10% lumen loss through the diffuser.
The cheapest vaportight enclosure I could find online is the "Louvers Intl. LILPS-CU4" @ $46.95
This is just an enclosure for a strip fixture (not included). (This is not a recommendation, just an observation.)

It's important to note that this applies only to "Instant Start" ballasts, not to "Programmed Rapid Start" electronic ballasts which require non-shunted lamp sockets. The arc sensing capability rating (for Instant Start ballasts only) is AKA: UL "Type CC".It's not that important to note. That's why I said "Almost all..." but Programmed Start is only about 5% of the T8 ballast market in the US, so hardly worth mentioning.
Also worth noting that they do not make non-shunted lamp sockets with "Circle I" rating.Moot. There would be no reason to.
This brings up a good point that I'll have to address in the spreadsheet: Since none of the Instant Start ballasts listed in the spreadsheet are Type CC, they should not be used with non-shunted lamp sockets. Not so. There is no issue using regular instant start ballasts with non-shunted sockets.
For now here's a list of Type CC rated Instant Start ballast equivalents that can be used with non-shunted lamp sockets: (you will need to externally shunt the lamp sockets)

Instant Start Type CC Equivalent for 49840 = 49368
Instant Start Type CC Equivalent for 49865 = 49367
Instant Start Type CC Equivalent for 49248 = none found
Instant Start Type CC Equivalent for 49498 = 49783
Instant Start Type CC Equivalent for 49853 = 49383

Type CC is irrelevant in garage-type fixtures whether it's residential or commercial. It started in the refrigeration industry where lamps where used vertically and the pins would get loosey goosey in the sockets. I dont know if Home Depot or Lowes, et al, even offer a fixture with PS ballasts. FYI...You CAN use UL type CC instant start ballasts with either shunted or non-shunted sockets. There is no issue with either.

 

[Platonic Solid]

Type CC is irrelevant in garage-type fixtures whether it's residential or commercial. It started in the refrigeration industry where lamps where used vertically and the pins would get loosey goosey in the sockets.
The real problem is the potential fire hazard of an improperly installed lamp. I've seen the burned melted lamp sockets. Nothing wrong with playing it safe and following the rules.

I dont know if Home Depot or Lowes, et al, even offer a fixture with PS ballasts.
Not relevant to this thread. There are several PS ballasts in the spreadsheet.

FYI...You CAN use UL type CC instant start ballasts with either shunted or non-shunted sockets. There is no issue with either. Agreed, as long as you externally shunt the non-shunted sockets.

Some informational statements made in my previous post were for the benefit of the general public reading this, not necessarily directed at you CD, thus what is obvious and "moot" to you and I, is not to many.

I’m not going to recommend using non-Type CC Instant Start ballasts with non-Circle I lamp sockets as it is not UL-compliant, thus not code-compliant, fixture construction.