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The VISES of Garage Journal

Outlawmws

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Fretters

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CW: Fortis question. The quick release mechanism on these things. Do yours use the same setup in that the end of the spring merely just sits against the lip of the leadscrew collar/plate? Is there one full turn of tension on the spring? This one of mine is killing me, trying to reassemble that ****** thing. :D I'm thinking of drilling the front plate and adding a bolt or pin there to hold the end of the spring, so that I can put less tension, (approx. 1/3 turn), on it. A full turn seems somewhat excessive, according to my fingers when I'm trying to get it all back together. :D The damn thing slipped during one attempt and smacked the end of my finger too. Some cursing ensued there. :D
 

Mark in Indiana

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In between emails with the owner of a Prentiss vise I'm trying to nail down I cleaned up this No1 Greenfield Tap and Die pipe vise. I know there is a limited market on these so I may just bolt it down on the end of a bench if I can't find a buyer. No loss . It was a throw in on a deal


They're very handy to have. I may suggest to bolt it on to a 4" x 6" piece of angle stock. Then you can clamp it in your regular vise to use for round stock jobs.

Also, looks great! :thumbup:
 

CwazyWabbit

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Surrey, UK
CW: Fortis question. The quick release mechanism on these things. Do yours use the same setup in that the end of the spring merely just sits against the lip of the leadscrew collar/plate? Is there one full turn of tension on the spring? This one of mine is killing me, trying to reassemble that ****** thing. :D I'm thinking of drilling the front plate and adding a bolt or pin there to hold the end of the spring, so that I can put less tension, (approx. 1/3 turn), on it. A full turn seems somewhat excessive, according to my fingers when I'm trying to get it all back together. :D The damn thing slipped during one attempt and smacked the end of my finger too. Some cursing ensued there. :D

I'll have a look a bit later, I seem to have accidentally deleted all my saved catalogue pages whilst organising them .... so I'm in the middle of a bit of data recovery at the moment .... oops ...

I still have 10 real catalogues (and two in the post) so it's not the end of the world if I can't get them back.
 

topop101

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They're very handy to have. I may suggest to bolt it on to a 4" x 6" piece of angle stock. Then you can clamp it in your regular vise to use for round stock jobs.

Also, looks great! :thumbup:

Not a bad idea. I have a couple of reed 71's . I will set one up like that for sure , thanks.
 

CwazyWabbit

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Fretters: Looking at it you should be able to increase tension in half turn increments by moving the other end of the spring instead of the logical end.

Photo isn't too clear but you can see the end of the spring to the left of the main screw near the handle

2015-04-19 21.42.27.jpg


Interesting to see this part is made of brass/bronze

2015-04-19 21.43.02.jpg

Couple of general photos, I forgot how heavy this one felt till I got it off the shelf ..... looks like it could do with a trip in the e-tank.

2015-04-19 21.40.30.jpg

2015-04-19 21.40.51.jpg
 

Jan-Sietze

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The Netherlands
First post, here goes!

IMG_3230_zpsua7fbaxt.jpg


It states "5/69" suggesting it was made in 1969. Have other Paramo owners found this stamp here?
Yes: My Paramo no6: 7/54
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4383907&postcount=22067
 

dutchgray

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The British military always seemed to stamp the date into their vices somewhere along with a crows foot / broadarrow symbol and another number which I assume is a serial no. I have two Wodens stamped like this on the slide.
 

Fretters

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Fretters: Looking at it you should be able to increase tension in half turn increments by moving the other end of the spring instead of the logical end.

Photo isn't too clear but you can see the end of the spring to the left of the main screw near the handle

Cheers CW. :) Very similar setup to mine. Did originally consider the other end of the spring, but that passes right through the shaft, and the flat bar is punch riveted in rather than screwed, so it's not a simple task to fiddle with things at that end.

It's a shame they didn't go with a similar setup to Parkinson/Record. Would have been so much easier to set back up if they had. I think I may have a play with this one and see if I can come up with something with a bit more finesse. I'd love to know how they managed to tension them at factory though, as I'll be damned if I can figure out a way of doing it which won't rip the paint up, or require fingers like Garth. :D

This is the stage I'm upto so far with this one, btw. The new paint is slightly darker than it seems in the photo. Condition when it arrived:

guimage


Current condition:

guimage
 
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Fretters

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The British military always seemed to stamp the date into their vices somewhere along with a crows foot / broadarrow symbol and another number which I assume is a serial no. I have two Wodens stamped like this on the slide.

This Fortis, (1953), and the second Swindens, (1944), both have the crows foot on them. Seems they used a different method before WWII though, as the first Swindens, (1936), has the crown and AM, (Air Ministry), punched in instead of the crows foot. As far as I can tell, they didn't punch any marks in around the period of WWI.
 
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dutchgray

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This Fortis, (1953), and the second Swindens, (1944), both have the crows foot on them. Seems they used a different method before WWII though, as the first Swindens, (1936), has the crown and AM, (Air Ministry), punched in instead of the crows foot. As far as I can tell, they didn't punch any marks in around the period of WWI.

Mine are both 1950's I haven't got anything military older than that. I suspect the usual rules went out the window to a certain extent during the wars, on our side at least.
 

Lu-Max

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Jan 8, 2014
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I picked up a Reed 203 1/2 today:

20150419_143124_resize_zpseujom3tm.jpg


20150419_143114_resize_zpsismxovlc.jpg


It came with a nice stand, a nice 600 pound stand:

20150419_143151_resize_zps1brcneof.jpg


20150419_141640_zpsrwsnulsc.jpg


20150419_141702_resize_zpsm5nvbvew.jpg


The table top is 20" x 24" by 4" solid steel. Basically a big anvil.
 
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jrobb316

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Under the gray, dark gray, red, and japanning it will say Prentiss 20 in graffiti letters. Scored it for $10. :shocking: Slide has a little crack, i've seen worse, and the pin is seized in the jaw. I have not tried to get it out yet, it just doesn't lift out. Handle is gone but that can be made. Now I have 3 of these #20s (4.5")
 

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Junebuggy

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OK...my first vise "clean up" since I can't do much forging for a long while....a Simplex Utility #30. Pretty much all I did was take it apart, bucket scrub it in Simple Green, hand sanded a few places and did the tape off... then spray painted it with primer and paint (Dupli-Color Bright Aqua Metallic DSGM440). It was a fun project.

17019263079_58903dc1be_z.jpg

16997989927_7d7c2f199e_z.jpg
 

topop101

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OK...my first vise "clean up" since I can't do much forging for a long while....a Simplex Utility #30. Pretty much all I did was take it apart, bucket scrub it in Simple Green, hand sanded a few places and did the tape off... then spray painted it with primer and paint (Dupli-Color Bright Aqua Metallic DSGM440). It was a fun project.

17019263079_58903dc1be_z.jpg

16997989927_7d7c2f199e_z.jpg

Love the color. Perfect fit for that lil'machine
 

bagged89s10

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CT
OK...my first vise "clean up" since I can't do much forging for a long while....a Simplex Utility #30. Pretty much all I did was take it apart, bucket scrub it in Simple Green, hand sanded a few places and did the tape off... then spray painted it with primer and paint (Dupli-Color Bright Aqua Metallic DSGM440). It was a fun project.



17019263079_58903dc1be_z.jpg


16997989927_7d7c2f199e_z.jpg


As Larry David says "pretty, pretty, pretty....
Pretty Good!"

Looks awesome! :thumbup:


~Veeps
 

KMScott

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Worked on a Parker today, fit a set of new jaws, 17.55 degrees on this one. Every set is different. Got if figured out though. Just needs the top radius cut and jaws pinned down. This 954-1/2 is going to be a nice vise when I finish it.
 

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Junebuggy

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KMScott....I've worked in a metal fabrication world for 35 years and I've seen some fine craftsman in that time. You have got this work figured out for sure. Nice work.
 

bigcaddy

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Orange County/ San Fernando Valley
Under the gray, dark gray, red, and japanning it will say Prentiss 20 in graffiti letters. Scored it for $10. :shocking: Slide has a little crack, i've seen worse, and the pin is seized in the jaw. I have not tried to get it out yet, it just doesn't lift out. Handle is gone but that can be made. Now I have 3 of these #20s (4.5")

Have you made yourself a threaded jack so you can pop that pin loose? I struggled with a Prentiss one time and swore I would never do it again unless I had a tool for the job.

It was bad enough that I debated cutting a groove in the pin and installing an o-ring just so my kids will not have to swear as much as I did getting it out:lol:

If you want one, I can mail you the most important part of making one. The rest is just 3/8" bolts sized to fit
 

McBrownie

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OK...my first vise "clean up" since I can't do much forging for a long while....a Simplex Utility #30. Pretty much all I did was take it apart, bucket scrub it in Simple Green, hand sanded a few places and did the tape off... then spray painted it with primer and paint (Dupli-Color Bright Aqua Metallic DSGM440). It was a fun project.

June, nice job and a dead ringer for this '70's album cover. Boy, that takes me back a ways.
 

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jrobb316

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Have you made yourself a threaded jack so you can pop that pin loose? I struggled with a Prentiss one time and swore I would never do it again unless I had a tool for the job.

It was bad enough that I debated cutting a groove in the pin and installing an o-ring just so my kids will not have to swear as much as I did getting it out:lol:

If you want one, I can mail you the most important part of making one. The rest is just 3/8" bolts sized to fit

I will try the basics first and let you know. I didn't try at all yet. I thought I remembered a post on it though. I've been lucky, my other 2 just lifted right out.
 

KMScott

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KMScott....I've worked in a metal fabrication world for 35 years and I've seen some fine craftsman in that time. You have got this work figured out for sure. Nice work.

Thanks Junebuggy, I've seen your work too, been working metal since 73 myself, the knifes you posted a week ago was out of this world. This vise had the same angles on the static and Dynamic supports, not like the others.
 

Junebuggy

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June, nice job and a dead ringer for this '70's album cover. Boy, that takes me back a ways.


I love that! Actually.....I had some left over paint from getting my old 95 F250 restored after I had to almost go to the cardiac unit when a local dealer told me the price of a new one. :eyecrazy:

12702300074_8bdfa2c3d9.jpg

17019263079_58903dc1be.jpg
 

oldldh

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I love that! Actually.....I had some left over paint from getting my old 95 F250 restored after I had to almost go to the cardiac unit when a local dealer told me the price of a new one. :eyecrazy:

JB---I've got a 1993 K1500 Chevy pickup (bought it new in Oct '93) that's getting ready to happen to...:thumbup:

For exactly the same reason...

Fifty Grand for a new pickup is---:lol_hitti

INSANE!!!

I like your Ford...:rocker:
 

bagged89s10

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CT
Worked on a Parker today, fit a set of new jaws, 17.55 degrees on this one. Every set is different. Got if figured out though. Just needs the top radius cut and jaws pinned down. This 954-1/2 is going to be a nice vise when I finish it.

Nice work on those jaws so far and can't wait to see it done!
 

RADcustom

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NW Louisiana
Good evening gents.

I stumbled onto something at the scrap yard the other day that I thought was worth posting about.
IMAG1412_zps3johrnn4.jpg

IMAG1418_zps6luttzxb.jpg

IMAG1415_zpssqtfqvn3.jpg


I'm in the process of cleaning it up and doing a little repair. I have to say it made my day.:rocker:
 
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