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What did you do "IN" your garage today?

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patrickn

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 4, 2013
Messages
273
Location
State of Confussion, somewhere in Indiana
Finished stripping the Bronco frame down. All rust removed, treated the metal and waiting for that to dry over night. Turned the rotors and messed around some. Tomorrow will be priming and painting first coats on it. Will be bending the new brake and fuel lines also.
 

Outlawmws

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 9, 2011
Messages
39,260
Location
The Badlands
CC The 455 looks GREAT!

Got the ****** in the Samurai ready for R&R tomorrow with my son's help. Two bolts and the stick removed and it gets pulled and the "new" rebuild goes in along with a fresh cut Flywheel and probably the clutch (Ready to go but is it needed?...)
 

Outlawmws

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Joined
Aug 9, 2011
Messages
39,260
Location
The Badlands
I've no clue how many miles are on it, it could be original, it could have been replaced by the PO a month before I bought it. In addition, this rig spent a lot of time being towed. I'll measure it and see what the wear is; no different than brakes.
 

bobcatdan

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Joined
Jan 4, 2011
Messages
9,948
Location
Kaukauna,WI
Took the annoying rollbar off my garden tractor. Changed oil on the car. Stared at a customer job I can't get a stupid $3 frost plug in a timely manner to start working on. Cut some fire wood up. Drinking beer.
 

CudaChick1968

Member Emeritus
Joined
Jul 1, 2011
Messages
1,800
Location
Northwest Tennessee (38230)
CC The 455 looks GREAT!

Got the ****** in the Samurai ready for R&R tomorrow with my son's help. Two bolts and the stick removed and it gets pulled and the "new" rebuild goes in along with a fresh cut Flywheel and probably the clutch (Ready to go but is it needed?...)

Thank you! Wish I'd been involved in building it too but dolling it up was fun. Billy would love to find his own home for it but started liquidating his stuff yesterday (his mom's in a nursing home as of a few weeks ago and her care costs are off the charts!!!). Not sure what will happen to the 455.
 

CudaChick1968

Member Emeritus
Joined
Jul 1, 2011
Messages
1,800
Location
Northwest Tennessee (38230)
CC The 455 looks GREAT!

Got the ****** in the Samurai ready for R&R tomorrow with my son's help. Two bolts and the stick removed and it gets pulled and the "new" rebuild goes in along with a fresh cut Flywheel and probably the clutch (Ready to go but is it needed?...)

Thank you! Wish I'd been involved in building it too but dolling it up was fun. Billy would love to find his own home for it but started liquidating his stuff yesterday (his mom's in a nursing home as of a few weeks ago and her care costs are off the charts!!!). Not sure what will happen to the 455. {He's got posts on CL; search for Leanna Johnson or PhoenixSpecialtyCoatings and it should bring them up due to the Photobucket tags.}
 

Kent_B

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 4, 2013
Messages
1,406
Location
MI
Leanne:
Prayers & good vibes sent to you & Billy. I understand the dilemma you are all in.
 

Dennis Leigh Henry

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Joined
Apr 8, 2013
Messages
6,302
Location
South Central, IN USA
Made the small square nut needed for my recent "stab hack saw", sharpened a putty knife, and hung the emergency exit lights. All flea market finds. Tools are in the car tool box, and the exit sign is hung in the basement workshop..
 
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bshusted

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 1, 2014
Messages
219
Location
Kirkland, WA
I spent some time measuring pressure differences over the hood of my car. I'm looking to install some vents in the hood to reduce underhood temps. All test runs were done at 60 mph. The grid is 5" squares and units are in kPa. These are the differences, so the more negative, the better.



Currently leaning toward some of these vents from the '13-'14 Mustang GTs.


Placement would looks something like this:
 

Outlawmws

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Joined
Aug 9, 2011
Messages
39,260
Location
The Badlands
Swapped the ****** on the Samurai today, early. with my son. Not sure what happened but I've been feeling dizzy and Queasy starting a bit over 1/2 way through (also dropped an 12mm wrench just above my eyes on forehead. (prompting Questions from SWMBO on if I had a concussion... :headscrat ) :dunno:

Feeling a little better after short a nap, but I didn't quite finish the job: I had to stop, leaving the starter and stick shift lever left yet to install...

On the clutch we did swap in the freshly machined Flywheel; the clutch and pressure plate looked new, no real wear at all on the plate, so I left well enough alone.

I'l finish up tomorrow AM...
 

LS6 Tommy

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 27, 2013
Messages
26,162
Location
Northern NJ
I spent some time measuring pressure differences over the hood of my car. I'm looking to install some vents in the hood to reduce underhood temps. All test runs were done at 60 mph. The grid is 5" squares and units are in kPa. These are the differences, so the more negative, the better.



Currently leaning toward some of these vents from the '13-'14 Mustang GTs.


Placement would looks something like this:

Just out of curiosity, why are the underhood temps such a concern? Don't get me wrong, it seems like a cool project and obviously you've put more though into it than just "I think I'll cut some vents into my hood". II would think it would be a heck of a lot easier to just remove the cowl seal and it wouldn't involve cutting the underhood braces.:dunno:

Tommy
 

Outlawmws

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Aug 9, 2011
Messages
39,260
Location
The Badlands
Removing the cowl seal will improve air flow how? That is a high pressure area and could actually stall air flow through the engine compartment.

In fact, that is exactly what happened on a friend's silver state Firebird with an unsealed cow;l where he intended to use it for air induction to the air cleaner, only he never actually sealed it to the air cleaner. At speed it stalled air flow though the radiator and it overheated. We sealed the cowl to the air cleaner and removed the flow to the engine compartment, and the heating problem went away...

I agree, cutting hood braces isn't good but the question there is what will he do in their place, or does he leave them, cut the skin only and just sacrifice a little of the vent area...
 

patrickn

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 4, 2013
Messages
273
Location
State of Confussion, somewhere in Indiana
Along with a hundred other things, finally got some pictures of the Mondello '68 Olds 455 with all my powder work finished and the 1050 Dominator installed.

074 - Copy.jpg

078 - Copy.jpg

089.jpg

Long time no talk. We might be driving through TN in August, might have to drop off my intake manifold and valve covers for you to do your magic on lol.

Your work is looking awesome as usual!
 

Outlawmws

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Joined
Aug 9, 2011
Messages
39,260
Location
The Badlands
Finished up the ****** swap, and got the starter and stick shift in. All good to go; next week new (Very due) larger tires (better overdrive ratio in the "new" ******)
 

bshusted

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Joined
Jan 1, 2014
Messages
219
Location
Kirkland, WA
Removing the cowl seal will improve air flow how? That is a high pressure area and could actually stall air flow through the engine compartment.

In fact, that is exactly what happened on a friend's silver state Firebird with an unsealed cow;l where he intended to use it for air induction to the air cleaner, only he never actually sealed it to the air cleaner. At speed it stalled air flow though the radiator and it overheated. We sealed the cowl to the air cleaner and removed the flow to the engine compartment, and the heating problem went away...

I agree, cutting hood braces isn't good but the question there is what will he do in their place, or does he leave them, cut the skin only and just sacrifice a little of the vent area...

I agree 100%. Removing the cowl seal/raising the rear of the hood, only hinders engine cooling. The windshield is a very high pressure region, second only to the nose.

The hood braces are very tall/deep. I plan to only cut the skin and a small amount of the brace to fit the vents. The first and last sections of the vents don't see any airflow, so I think it will be okay to bury them in the brace.

This project is necessitated by the classic "big engine in a small space" problem. The car was originally equipped with a 2.8L V6. After a while, I got tired of it and installed a 4.2L V8. The longer V8 limits space directly aft of the radiator. Under ordinary driving conditions, cooling is not a problem. Driving hard on a hod day though can cause the temp gauge to rise higher than "normal" though. I've been wanting to do some track time and get back to doing autocross, so I need to make sure cooling is taken care of first.

Not the greatest picture, but you can get an idea of the real estate issue.
 

bodyguy16

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 8, 2009
Messages
1,016
Location
QC, Canada
I agree 100%. Removing the cowl seal/raising the rear of the hood, only hinders engine cooling. The windshield is a very high pressure region, second only to the nose.

The hood braces are very tall/deep. I plan to only cut the skin and a small amount of the brace to fit the vents. The first and last sections of the vents don't see any airflow, so I think it will be okay to bury them in the brace.

This project is necessitated by the classic "big engine in a small space" problem. The car was originally equipped with a 2.8L V6. After a while, I got tired of it and installed a 4.2L V8. The longer V8 limits space directly aft of the radiator. Under ordinary driving conditions, cooling is not a problem. Driving hard on a hod day though can cause the temp gauge to rise higher than "normal" though. I've been wanting to do some track time and get back to doing autocross, so I need to make sure cooling is taken care of first.

Not the greatest picture, but you can get an idea of the real estate issue.
Very nice swap! How does it handle with the big v8?

Before cutting up the hood have you thought of adding a switch to power cooling fans when wanted/needed?

You could keep a sleeper look to it.
 

LS6 Tommy

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Joined
Dec 27, 2013
Messages
26,162
Location
Northern NJ
Removing the cowl seal will improve air flow how? That is a high pressure area and could actually stall air flow through the engine compartment.

In fact, that is exactly what happened on a friend's silver state Firebird with an unsealed cow;l where he intended to use it for air induction to the air cleaner, only he never actually sealed it to the air cleaner. At speed it stalled air flow though the radiator and it overheated. We sealed the cowl to the air cleaner and removed the flow to the engine compartment, and the heating problem went away...

I agree, cutting hood braces isn't good but the question there is what will he do in their place, or does he leave them, cut the skin only and just sacrifice a little of the vent area...

I asked because I didn't know it was not a factory setup.
Don't get me wrong, I fully understand the high pressure area that can occur at the base of the windshield. That's why the GM Cowl Induction hood is one of the few factory systems that acutally works. I just figured maybe on that particular car it might let air out. On many newer vehicles with highly swept windshields it does.

Tommy
 
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bshusted

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 1, 2014
Messages
219
Location
Kirkland, WA
Very nice swap! How does it handle with the big v8?

Before cutting up the hood have you thought of adding a switch to power cooling fans when wanted/needed?

You could keep a sleeper look to it.

Thanks. The handling actually improved with the V8 as it was a major weight reduction from the cast iron V6. Extra power and torque certainly helps. :3gears:

The fans are not an issue. They are fine keeping it cool when not moving, the times it runs hot are at speeds 50 mph and over. No fan is going to move as much air as that. I wish I could keep the sleeper look and have worked hard to do so, but it's time to get it done.

Or go look at an S4 and see how the factory does it.....

I'm not sure what you mean by this. None of the S4's came from the factory with vented hoods. If you're referring to the V8, this is not the chain-driven time bomb in the B6/7 S4. This is the belt-driven V8 from the A6/A8. The B5 S4 came from the factory with the 2.7T.
 

NUTTSGT

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Staff member
Joined
Sep 14, 2009
Messages
50,982
Location
Northern Central Ohio
Decided to add a top to the shelf I made for my new receiver, so I made that and was gettign to mount it and realized I had another issue. When I added a Cat5e for the 'net, I used the other outlet so I need another outlet for the CD player I also bought. There's not enough room for a duplex outlet so it leaves me two choices, put an outlet in the ceiling for the Netgear switch or get and outlet strip.
 

k-os

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 29, 2012
Messages
995
Location
WI
Replaced some rotted sill plates in the garage and got the wall studs tied back in today.



 

pk9298

New member
Joined
Jul 11, 2015
Messages
1
What did you do "IN" your garage today?

Organized my tool box after yesterday's stressful job of ignition coil on a Tacoma. 5 minute job turned into a 30 minute job. Seriously. Aftermarket alarm systems are ridiculous.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

ChevyEFI

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 2, 2012
Messages
8,746
Location
Phoenix, AZ
Removing the cowl seal will improve air flow how? That is a high pressure area and could actually stall air flow through the engine compartment.
I appreciate what he's doing and have no skepticism of his project, nor it's execution.

That said and in your question to how:

The hotter and dryer the environment, the harder it is to cool a water-cooled engine with airflow.

Heat still rises and in an engine bay with the cowl as the highest point, being stopped, an open cowl can help.

In my experience with a totally different line of cars, the cowl seal doesn't help cooling. That's:
In ambient temps exceeding 120 F.
Daily driver type driving 85mph and under.
Observing temps w/ a scanner.

That said, cooling fan, humidity, use of the vehicle, and different characteristics of the exterior of the car do matter.

Carry on.
 

shortykorte

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 1, 2014
Messages
8,039
Location
Tallahassee, Fl
Not in it but on top. Clean the pile of leaves of roof and gutters. Also cut back branches touching the garage.
Also did a little reorg and cleaning.
 

Experimental Metals

Active member
Joined
May 16, 2015
Messages
30
Location
Seattle
Over the weekend I decided it was time to finally get my mill/drill up off the floor so it is usable. I wasn’t too fond of the $300 stand Jet makes for these so I decided to fab one up myself. It’s made from 2x2x.125 steel tube and a .125” top plate. I originally wanted it on casters but decided that wasn’t a good idea, so I opted for adjustable feet (hockey pucks) that would allow me to get a pallet jack underneath should I ever have to move it again. If the design looks familiar to someone, that’s because I looked at hundreds of photos throughout various forums to see what other people’s solutions were and then copied the one I like the most. So if this looks like yours…thank you. :) The best part is that even with the purchase of the Craftsman cabinet, I still came in under the cost of the Jet stand.

Since the mill is now operational, it was also time to restore the Kurt D60 vise I picked up recently. It was pretty old and gunked up and needed some lovin'. I disassembled it, gave it a bath in the parts washer, powdercoated it, greased it back up and slapped it back together…the action is super smooth now. The one thing that bummed me out was the 24 hour dip in the parts washer pretty much destroyed the ID tag.
 

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