The VISES of Garage Journal

[va.grouseman]

Mighty pretty Get.

I think that 100 years from now all these works of art that some of the members here are capable of, will have their own galleries for viewing and purchasing like Picasso's, and Rembrandt's, only they will be called KM's, Blane's, Mark's, Getrid's, Outlaws, Bagged,'s Joe.striper's, BlueBolts's Maggee's, Shift's, Zkling's Drive,'s,Old's, Autopts's, Zoomies's, and probably 200 more from these pages.---Each artist will have their own personal viewing room with all their masterpieces displayed, only none of you will be there.---And you know what they say about art, price goes through the roof if the artist will depart.

 

[Outlawmws]

so the real question is who is buying them up, and hoping some of the artists, Um, "Move on"...

 

[oldldh]

Mighty pretty Get.

I think that 100 years from now all these works of art that some of the members here are capable of, will have their own galleries for viewing and purchasing like Picasso's, and Rembrandt's, only they will be called KM's, Blane's, Mark's, Getrid's, Outlaws, Bagged,'s Joe.striper's, BlueBolts's Maggee's, Shift's, Zkling's Drive,'s,Old's, Autopts's, Zoomies's, and probably 200 more from these pages.---Each artist will have their own personal viewing room with all their masterpieces displayed, only none of you will be there.---And you know what they say about art, price goes through the roof if the artist will depart.

Someone's been smoking his shoelaces, again!!!

 

[macgee]

Here's a partial Wilton & FPU vise I just finished painting. Just waiting for them to cure before assembly.

 

[Mohawk Dave]

Ok. Since I started posting, I been wanting a big one (big vise). I found a guy selling a 7" swivel jaw prentiss (it will be the subject of a different post on the repair thread). I get to his garage and spent 2 hours looking at his collection of tools. Wow! He had 2 older Wilton 800s model vises. One was like new. A whole bunch of 5"-6" wiltons. And a 6" Ridge tool co vise. Next to the Ridge, he had an enormous 8" vise from "a steel foundry near Chicago". He was CERTAIN it had been custom built at the foundry. Anyone ever hear of such a thing?
I saw the vise and it is HUGE! The last pic has the 6" Ridge in the photo for scale.

Well, it's not an Athol. Or at least not like my Athol 618.

 

[Mohawk Dave]

Whats up Macgee! Where you been?

And what kind of paint is that? Looks awesome.

 

[bagged89s10]

Here's a partial Wilton & FPU vise I just finished painting. Just waiting for them to cure before assembly.

Those look like they are going to be pretty awesome when done.

 

[Rileysan]

My 974 (primary vise for almost 30 years...) does the same thing. It has 20-25 thou clearance on the bottom when the tops touch.

I think it was on purpose.

I agree. It's reminiscent of tongue-and-groove (read: Channellock) pliers. I would be interested in seeing a picture of a Parker clamped down on a flat bar to see if the jaws flex any.

Brian

 

[bagged89s10]

I agree. It's reminiscent of toungue-and-groove (read: Channellock) pliers. I would be interested in seeing a picture of a Parker clamped down on a flat bar to see if the jaws flex any.



Brian

That's interesting. I might have the clamp down flat piece of steel on one of the Parkers I have and see if it does flex.

 

[Jcrapola]

Well, it's not an Athol. Or at least not like my Athol 618.

BOING!!!
That Athol is cool as balls!!!

 

[macgee]

Those look like they are going to be pretty awesome when done.

Thanks Bagged, Their not the exactly the kind of paint job I may want for my own vise (which I trash regularly) but wanted to try out a new way of painting, it takes a long time for them to dry (weeks+), the brown one is for a friend of mine, it was his fathers (pattern maker) who had it for 50 years. I milled all the surfaces and polished all the hardware. I won't be surprised if the first thing he does with it is a welding project; which he should, well' because it's a vise.

Whats up Macgee! Where you been?

And what kind of paint is that? Looks awesome.

Hey Dave, Real life has pre-occupied me and kept me away. The paint is a hammer paint applied in a different way but the jury is still out. It does look way better in person. Hope you've been well

 

[drivesitfar]

MAC: i'm a fan of your hammered paint job. is it Rustoleum Hammered verde green or do tell? also what is the secret because i'm planning on painting some HUGE steel dumbbells that color?

Dave: when you only post one picture of your 8 inch Athol every year you know we want more so maybe post more if you have them when you have some time or when you are making a comment on some other member's vises.

thanks

VA: i've heard the ART term before when describing our vises and actually was competing against another person when buying a 5195 and if he was willing to pay shipping just to put it on his FIREPLACE MANTLE. thankfully in that situation my seller didn't want to mess with shipping when i was there with cash in hand.

some day some of your guy's collections might be in a museum unless you can send them off to some members like I have been doing that NEED one for their bench before you hit that big room full of HUGE AND SMALL OLD US VISES IN THE SKY.

cheers

 

[Mark in Indiana]

Drives,
I believe that this group has taken vises to an ART FORM.

 

[bagged89s10]

I put together the Parker 804 after the BLO cured. I love these oversized 800 series Parkers.







I will hand file the jaw serrations a little.







It does need.390" of shims.



I will make a bronze or alumabronze bushing. Joe had the idea to make one to fit the other side of that spindle lip so the nose doesn't stick out so far.

Either way, this thing has awesome almost immediate action. Actuates with less than a 1/4 turn.

It might eventually get painted when I have time.

 

[joe.striper]

Thanks Bagged, Their not the exactly the kind of paint job I may want for my own vise (which I trash regularly) but wanted to try out a new way of painting, it takes a long time for them to dry (weeks+), the brown one is for a friend of mine, it was his fathers (pattern maker) who had it for 50 years. I milled all the surfaces and polished all the hardware. I won't be surprised if the first thing he does with it is a welding project; which he should, well' because it's a vise.

Hey Dave, Real life has pre-occupied me and kept me away. The paint is a hammer paint applied in a different way but the jury is still out. It does look way better in person. Hope you've been well

Mac, that looks like the Hammerite paint Veeps and I use. I love to create the flow like you have. You've got to get a baking oven like Veeps and I use, it will have that vise paint rock hard in 24 hours.

 

[drivesitfar]

Joe: speaking of your SMOKERS you and Bagged use can you tell me how heavy each shelf will hold and the dimentions? i'm guessing that the big 8 inch vises won't fit, but do the 6 inch 150 pounders?

Mark: VISES ARE ART FORM especially when some members cut up broken ones and make book ends out of them.

 

[macgee]

MAC: i'm a fan of your hammered paint job. is it Rustoleum Hammered verde green or do tell? also what is the secret because i'm planning on painting some HUGE steel dumbbells that color?

cheers

Hey Drive, The color is Mid Green.

Mac, that looks like the Hammerite paint Veeps and I use. I love to create the flow like you have. You've got to get a baking oven like Veeps and I use, it will have that vise paint rock hard in 24 hours.

Yes, it's Hammerite and thanks, I'll look into a baking oven. I do wait for heatwave days to paint here in So. Cal. You really have to spray on a very hot sunny day (90+degree) to get the effect otherwise you can get drip marks when trying to get the swirl & glossy pattern. I found out the hard way last week when half way thru my coats the sun went behind a tree and totally effected how the paint reacted and started to drip on the next coat which can pretty much destroy the paint job. I found the key to curing is make sure the vise is preheated prior to painting. About 125 degrees. How you apply the last coat is the key and most important.

Note: An interesting thing I found is different colors react differently. The green really swirles easily but quick to drip, the brown needed much heavier coats compared to other colors to get the swirl effect making it too risky for drips.

Hammerite does have a problem of sputtering/spitting out the nozzle which can cause problems and stress.

 

[Mark in Indiana]

Magee,
I was wondering about that green color also. I thought it looked to BLUE for Hammered Green and too GREEN for Verde Green. I like the tip on giving the Hammered colors more texture.

 

[drivesitfar]

MAC: how are you PRE HEATING your vise up to 120 degrees before painting it? i do like painting my hammered spray paint in about 70-80 degree weather, but keeping it that warm at night without heat in a shop is my issue. i like the idea of the little SMOKERS, but was thinking an oven like this might be better for the BIG vises and i'll have to do some measuring.

thanks and again AWESOME paint job

 

[Evergreentree]

Hey guys! Long time no post. Super busy. Just brought this Parker home. No 3. Possibly had a previous single jaw replacement done on it. 4 5/8" jaw width.

 

[Evergreentree]

Guess on age? C Parker casting.

Also, does the bench need to be cut to mount this? I've never owned a vise with the fixed base like this one.

 

[joe.striper]

Hey Drive, The color is Mid Green.



Yes, it's Hammerite and thanks, I'll look into a baking oven. I do wait for heatwave days to paint here in So. Cal. You really have to spray on a very hot sunny day (90+degree) to get the effect otherwise you can get drip marks when trying to get the swirl & glossy pattern. I found out the hard way last week when half way thru my coats the sun went behind a tree and totally effected how the paint reacted and started to drip on the next coat which can pretty much destroy the paint job. I found the key to curing is make sure the vise is preheated prior to painting. About 125 degrees. How you apply the last coat is the key and most important.

Note: An interesting thing I found is different colors react differently. The green really swirles easily but quick to drip, the brown needed much heavier coats compared to other colors to get the swirl effect making it too risky for drips.

Hammerite does have a problem of sputtering/spitting out the nozzle which can cause problems and stress.

Macgee, our ovens are dedicated electric smokers, Veeps got his for $80 bucks at tractor supply, I had to pay $100. Very controlled temperatures, 4 shelves with a capacity of about 40-50lbs per shelf. I need to make a bench for my heavier work that I can put in there.

As to Hammerite, I know you said midgreen but boy does that look like light blue on my monitor. Here are pics of some of the Hammerite colors in the flesh in this order:

Mid Green - 3.5" Reed
Dark Blue (my favorite) - Parker 824
Solid red - Stanley Sweetheart vise
Dark Green - 7" Reed
Black - Wilton 9300
Light Blue (2nd favorite) - Wilton 9300

 

[joe.striper]

Guess on age? C Parker casting.

Also, does the bench need to be cut to mount this? I've never owned a vise with the fixed base like this one.

That bevel base was discontinued, I believe, around 1900. The way to get around that is to mount a small section of sacrificial wood on top of your bench, cut it and mount your vise to it.

 

[Evergreentree]

Good thinking joe, thanks!

 

[econotrk]

Doing my first Chas Parker restore. I'm installing the jaws and wondered what you guys use for the pin material. I tried to use the original pins again, but the jaws have a bit of wiggle that I don't want.

 

[bagged89s10]

Guess on age? C Parker casting.



Also, does the bench need to be cut to mount this? I've never owned a vise with the fixed base like this one.

I have the same style no. 2. My guess is late 1800s to early 1900s.



Here is a 1916 ad with that style Parker vise.

 

[joe.striper]

Doing my first Chas Parker restore. I'm installing the jaws and wondered what you guys use for the pin material. I tried to use the original pins again, but the jaws have a bit of wiggle that I don't want.

I go to Rocky's hardware in town and buy tapered pins. I discovered this because I once restored a Parker that had really long pins in it. When I measured them I discovered that they did in fact taper. It isn't obvious if you are only working with a 1" pin. Once I found the correct size I installed them TAPPED them home (drive them home and you may break the jaw insert - don't ask me how I know this)The taper is pretty standard and I have had great success in replacing them and getting nice tight jaws. I hope you took them out by punching them UP and not Down.

 

[zkling]

Here's a partial Wilton & FPU vise I just finished painting. Just waiting for them to cure before assembly.

Great job milling the anvil areas and keeping edges crisp, essential to a proper restoration IMHO.

 

[bagged89s10]

I go to Rocky's hardware in town and buy tapered pins. I discovered this because I once restored a Parker that had really long pins in it. When I measured them I discovered that they did in fact taper. It isn't obvious if you are only working with a 1" pin. Once I found the correct size I installed them TAPPED them home (drive them home and you may break the jaw insert - don't ask me how I know this)The taper is pretty standard and I have had great success in replacing them and getting nice tight jaws. I hope you took them out by punching them UP and not Down.

The last Parker I took apart had pins made of a softer material. They were brass colored. Anyone know what Parker used?

 

[Evergreentree]

Thanks bagged. Any idea what this "nubbin" is under the jaw support?

 

[KMScott]

Doing my first Chas Parker restore. I'm installing the jaws and wondered what you guys use for the pin material. I tried to use the original pins again, but the jaws have a bit of wiggle that I don't want.

I like reaming the .203 13/64 holes to a 1/4 inch and then give a light knurl on the top of the pin for a light press fit. The ones in my picture will be smoothed down a little for a .001-.002 press fit. Then they are secure. I use a Hand Knurler in my wood lathe that I fit a chuck to, could get away with chucking it up in a drill press but it might slip. Or reaming the hole .001 under size and polish the round stock for the right press. Most hardware stores carry 1/4 soft rods.

 

[drivesitfar]

EG: i like Joe's idea to 45 off a 2 x and mount your Parker on it on top of your bench instead of notching your bench. not sure what the nub is, but maybe a few more pictures from it from below might get you the answer.

ALL: this one looks like an Import, but it does have some age to it. a Supreme Mark VI and only pictures and information i have other than the guy wants $150 for it.

 

[econotrk]

I go to Rocky's hardware in town and buy tapered pins. I discovered this because I once restored a Parker that had really long pins in it. When I measured them I discovered that they did in fact taper. It isn't obvious if you are only working with a 1" pin. Once I found the correct size I installed them TAPPED them home (drive them home and you may break the jaw insert - don't ask me how I know this)The taper is pretty standard and I have had great success in replacing them and getting nice tight jaws. I hope you took them out by punching them UP and not Down.

I have some taper pins at home that I will give a try. Yes I did tap them out from the bottom.

I like reaming the .203 13/64 holes to a 1/4 inch and then give a light knurl on the top of the pin for a light press fit. The ones in my picture will be smoothed down a little for a .001-.002 press fit. Then they are secure. I use a Hand Knurler in my wood lathe that I fit a chuck to, could get away with chucking it up in a drill press but it might slip. Or reaming the hole .001 under size and polish the round stock for the right press. Most hardware stores carry 1/4 soft rods.

Kevin, are you using a straight pin or a tapered?

Mine were hard to get out, but going back in didn't take much effort. I even fooled around with some punch marks in the originals to tighten them up. Helped but not rock solid.

 

[topop101]

Guess on age? C Parker casting.

Also, does the bench need to be cut to mount this? I've never owned a vise with the fixed base like this one.

You don't have to cut your bench. If it doesn't make it too tall make a piece of wood thick enough to set under the entire vise and notch it saving your bench. I think the thickness is about 2-3/8 if memory severs me. Run the edges through your router to make them look good . Walnut or oak looks great.

 

[Hemi49]

I go to Rocky's hardware in town and buy tapered pins. I discovered this because I once restored a Parker that had really long pins in it. When I measured them I discovered that they did in fact taper. It isn't obvious if you are only working with a 1" pin. Once I found the correct size I installed them TAPPED them home (drive them home and you may break the jaw insert - don't ask me how I know this)The taper is pretty standard and I have had great success in replacing them and getting nice tight jaws. I hope you took them out by punching them UP and not Down.

Joe
Are the tapered pins you are buying #5's?.....I see Grainger has #5 pins that fall into the size range Dr. Scott mentioned.....BTW, when you are in Binghamton, run up to Rochester and I'll buy you lunch......
Hemi

 

[Outlawmws]

Mac, are you hand painting the hammered paint on?

 

[KMScott]

Kevin, are you using a straight pin or a tapered?

Mine were hard to get out, but going back in didn't take much effort. I even fooled around with some punch marks in the originals to tighten them up. Helped but not rock solid.

No, I have not seen Parker use a taper pin in the vises I have worked on. That is a good choice though. But you should have a tapered reamer to clean up the hole. You have to be careful though, you could go to deep and really have a hard time finding a taper pin long enough. I have found my method seems to work for me. Good luck.

 

[Evergreentree]

Thanks topop, and drives

 

[va.grouseman]

Drive, the Mark VI does look like import, but does look pretty stout also.---But I know looks can be deceiving sometimes.---But that vise does beg the question, will the here-to-for unforeseen vises ever stop surfacing?---When you think you've seen every possible make and model vise ever cast or fabricated in these 2000+ pages, some of you fellows will drag up another one that has never been seen before. ---It's amazing.

 

[joe.striper]

Great job milling the anvil areas and keeping edges crisp, essential to a proper restoration IMHO.

Z, you are the reason I just bought a surface grindef!!!!