The VISES of Garage Journal

[Blue Frog]

Might want to be careful with that depending on what you typically do. Those were designed for tool room use, final fitting, aka careful use by machinists. With the over hung jaws and thin towers it's not one that you want to clamp a caliper hanger in and go to town.

Thanks for the advice, but I don't use a vise as most of you do - I'm a woodworker, so any work that I do is considered light duty by most in this forum.

Blue

 

[bagged89s10]

Got me a Reed 104R again. This one won't get resold. Just have to wait for it to arrive via FedEx.

 

[slotard]

Well I found why the Reed has significant backlash, the nut has a tensioner and there's a significant gap between it and the nut. How should I get this moving... start with aircraft remover, then PB Blaster, then a manual impact driver?

 

[balane]

I would use a hand impact driver with large standard bit and a hammer. A few whacks should get that stud moving.

 

[Fretters]

I would use a hand impact driver with large standard bit and a hammer. A few whacks should get that stud moving.

I'd personally be a bit leary of using any form of impact on something that skinny. Better to have a bit of meat behind something if impacting. Probably just cleaning the paint and any other **** off it would free it.

 

[Fretters]

Those are (obviously) very soft, so I'd first try straightening it (I don't think I've ever seen one NOT bent at least a little). If it's beyond that, go to a hardware store with the heavy "spike" nails and see if one is the right size, or if not, just a tad larger and do what Get said.

I would not use a hardened pin for this use. you want that pin to have some give, as the castings don't...

The other thing is if the pin is not hard against the nut, being soft enough to bend allows you to bend it into the nut to keep it from walking.

Brazing rod or brass rod tend to be my choice with stuff like that, which is never going to see any real stress. As you say, keep it soft and something which is easy to bend, and a quick session with a file will easily get the end fitting into the hole if it's a tad oversize.

 

[zkling]

I'd personally be a bit leary of using any form of impact on something that skinny. Better to have a bit of meat behind something if impacting. Probably just cleaning the paint and any other **** off it would free it.

I'd back the screw out with a very good fitting screwdriver (may need to do some grinding), clean off all the threads and then thread it in further. If it seems too stuck as is, a little heat from a propane torch or even heat gun to soften the paint would help.

 

[slotard]

It looks a hair bigger than a 3/8" coarse bolt that I held next to it, and quite a bit finer thread pitch. It could either be a funny size (unlikely that it's metric if late 40s to early 60s is right, which is what I was told) or just paint making it bigger. Not tiny by any means.

 

[Outlawmws]

I'd personally be a bit leary of using any form of impact on something that skinny. Better to have a bit of meat behind something if impacting. Probably just cleaning the paint and any other **** off it would free it.

This^^^ - Don't start with any impact unless you have already tried normal means...

 

[zkling]

More than once I've snapped one of the "ears" off a slotted stud like that before. They are commonly used as gib adjustment screws on machine ways. A tight fitting screwdriver is a must.

 

[slotard]

The paint wasn't done very well to begin with so I'm thinking I'll be stripping all of it anyway. I just picked up some stripper and BLO.

When I said manual impact I meant the kind you hit with a hammer... I'm always surprised how many people don't know such a thing exists.

 

[zkling]

The paint wasn't done very well to begin with so I'm thinking I'll be stripping all of it anyway. I just picked up some stripper and BLO.

When I said manual impact I meant the kind you hit with a hammer... I'm always surprised how many people don't know such a thing exists.

Yes, but the problem with those is you have to be careful what you use them on as they produce not only a rotational force but also quite a bit of inline/axial force. Which works great for keeping the bit seated, but if the structure can't take the blows, well then...

 

[GETRIDAONE]

Fretters, I have been grinding with the drill making a handle knob for the Parkinson. I guess that's why I suggested the drill method. Speaking of the Parkinson, while taking the blue paint off there was some gray underneath. Would it have been gray color originally ?
Thank's

 

[Fretters]

Fretters, I have been grinding with the drill making a handle knob for the Parkinson. I guess that's why I suggested the drill method.

It's as good a method as any. As with any task, there's usually multiple ways to skin a cat. Just personal preference more than owt, else availability of bits and tools, as to which method one uses.

Speaking of the Parkinson, while taking the blue paint off there was some gray underneath. Would it have been gray color originally ?
Thank's

Red, if I recall. Their colours seemed to vary between orange and red, almost through to burgundy at times. If you send Dutchgray a message, (else search through his posts in the vices thread), I believe he has one in pretty much perfect original condition, including paint and sticker. He should be able to give you the best idea of original colour.

 

[bagged89s10]

Well I found why the Reed has significant backlash, the nut has a tensioner and there's a significant gap between it and the nut. How should I get this moving... start with aircraft remover, then PB Blaster, then a manual impact driver?

I would soak it in a 50/50 mixture acetone transmission fluid. Then use a hand driver to get that screw moving.

 

[Fretters]

Get', these are the photo's of that Handy. I had them saved on the computer. As far as I recall, that's original paint.

 

[slotard]

Huh, came across something odd on CL.

It does look old (but China **** has been around long enough that it could too), and the screw/handle are big enough that it appears to be heavy duty and likely US made, but he claims there's no brand on it. I just asked about other markings too, as it would be very strange to be completely unmarked.

edit: he says no markings

 

[Fretters]

It's US made, (can't recall the brand for that styling though, but one of the others will tell), but that has a welded swivel base and the rear jaw shelf is broken off.

 

[Outlawmws]

Slot, I think every major maker made some unmarked for someone to re-brand with paper labels...

 

[slotard]

It's US made, (can't recall the brand for that styling though, but one of the others will tell), but that has a welded swivel base and the rear jaw shelf is broken off.

Yep, noticed the welding. He wants $30.

I don't understand quite what you mean by rear shelf.

 

[Fretters]

He wants $30.

Unless something is seriously damaged, I'd say that's no bad price even with the welding and damage taken into consideration.

I don't understand quite what you mean by rear shelf.

The jaw insert on the rear jaw. The oblong hole visible in the middle rear of that insert. It appears the piece of cast which locates and supports that is broken off, (usually happens when people have been wailing away with a hammer), unless it's just the end portion which has broken off.

 

[joe.striper]

A few weeks back I picked up this odd little vise with rubber jaws and an eccentric lockdown mechanism. It is clearly home-made. There has been conjecture as to what it is for but we will never know.

On this restoration I worked hard to keep its integrity intact by keeping the original wood base (check out how tight that grain is) and not over-restoring it. I did build a new handle for it and used a modern knob, but as I removed layer after layer of grime I found a really lovely little thing (at least I think so). The closer you look at it the nicer it appears. I works GREAT and the jaws grip tight. You can judge it's size by the quarter it is holding.

Anyway, I just thought I'd share it. I really like this little guy...

 

[GETRIDAONE]

Get', these are the photo's of that Handy. I had them saved on the computer. As far as I recall, that's original paint.

Thank You, Red it will be

 

[drivesitfar]

Slotard: the jaws on that old vise look like a Rock Island and for $30 i'd buy it just because it has a good dynamic and maybe screw and vise nut. if you can fix the swivel base that has been welded and that missing piece behind the static's jaw isn't too bad you have a great old vise probably from the 1920's.

good luck

 

[slotard]

It's a bit of a drive but if he still has it next weekend I'll buy it from him. Having to deal with storm stuff this weekend.

 

[CRSINMICH]

Page 2100 now. 100 pages in two months. What does that figure out to for a year?

 

[slotard]

100 in 2 months is 50/month, 12 months a year means 600/year.

 

[GETRIDAONE]

That would figure out to be a lot of BS in a year.

 

[mrmiller]

Here are a couple shots of my Parker 5x all tore down. Like I said before I don't want to do a full blown refurb on this yet. I just want to get it good and functional because I plan on using it. What do you guys suggest I use to shine up the moving parts so it will work better? Wire wheel or sanding disc? I don't want to use something too aggressive I just want to shine it up and spray it down with some lube. Thanks!

 

[Fretters]

The subtlest yet most effective method I've found for minimal fettling is kerosene and a nylon pan scourer coupled with good old fashioned elbow grease.

 

[CRSINMICH]

100 in 2 months is 50/month, 12 months a year means 600/year.

slotard: I can't tell if you are kidding but here's how you can tell if I'm kidding: If I'm speaking or writing I'm probably kidding.

 

[KMScott]

The subtlest yet most effective method I've found for minimal fettling is kerosene and a nylon pan scourer coupled with good old fashioned elbow grease.

+1 on what Fretters said. I like using the red Scotch Brite pads with lacquer thinner.

 

[mrmiller]

+1 on what Fretters said. I like using the red Scotch Brite pads with lacquer thinner.

Ok thank you for the suggestions. Now this method will actually result in "shiny" metal?

 

[autopts]

Joe you always find the unusual. Very nice!

 

[joe.striper]

Joe you always find the unusual. Very nice!

Thanks, variety is the spice of life!

 

[bagged89s10]

+1 on what Fretters said. I like using the red Scotch Brite pads with lacquer thinner.

+1 on red scotch brite pads. I bought a bunch at a swap meet last summer. Most auto body supply places are the only places I usually find them.

 

[bagged89s10]

A few weeks back I picked up this odd little vise with rubber jaws and an eccentric lockdown mechanism. It is clearly home-made. There has been conjecture as to what it is for but we will never know.



On this restoration I worked hard to keep its integrity intact by keeping the original wood base (check out how tight that grain is) and not over-restoring it. I did build a new handle for it and used a modern knob, but as I removed layer after layer of grime I found a really lovely little thing (at least I think so). The closer you look at it the nicer it appears. I works GREAT and the jaws grip tight. You can judge it's size by the quarter it is holding.



Anyway, I just thought I'd share it. I really like this little guy...

Pretty nice! Any idea what that was used for?

 

[KMScott]

Ok thank you for the suggestions. Now this method will actually result in "shiny" metal?

It is best you try this yourself. This method removes rust, contaminates and years of crud. Thinner, kerosene or lamp oil all works as a cleaner. My version of shiny might be different then yours. I used to polish injection molds. Cleaning your spindle threads, the threads in the nut and the bottom of the Static jaw support will help more then cleaning the sides of the square slider in making the vise open and closing the vise. Do not forget to grease and lube all moving parts and the collar area.

 

[slotard]

+1 on red scotch brite pads. I bought a bunch at a swap meet last summer. Most auto body supply places are he only places I usually find them.

Welding supply stores tend to have them as well.

 

[nutsnbolts]

I am trying to figure out what this small vise belongs to. It looks as if it was meant to slide onto another piece of equipment? It has the markings "23 5246-2" and a triangle with an "A" inside. Allied?