Show us your compressor plumbing and manifolds

[vonhef]

Nice Curtis !!!!!!!

Thanks! It is a 1957 model that ran all day every day in a 3 bay service station until around 2000. How do I know? Because I grew up in that station [emoji3]

My experience with this Curtis makes me highly recommend that brand.


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[jrsulo]

Thanks! It is a 1957 model that ran all day every day in a 3 bay service station until around 2000. How do I know? Because I grew up in that station [emoji3]

My experience with this Curtis makes me highly recommend that brand.


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Running a 1959 one myself !!!!!!

 

[G20-Budo]

Thanks! It is a 1957 model that ran all day every day in a 3 bay service station until around 2000. How do I know? Because I grew up in that station [emoji3]

My experience with this Curtis makes me highly recommend that brand.


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Running a 1959 one myself !!!!!!

That is just flat cool!! (That you guys are both running air compressors from the 1950's!!)

 

[Modoc]

A true testament to American exceptionalism, and quality. How much of this cheap imported **** do you think will still be around and operating 50+ years from now???? I bet I could answer that one (F*** All), as my Canadian friends would say. To take the other side of that argument though, company's need you to have to replace stuff, they can't survive by making products that last 50+years any more. The old business model depended on selling the product, then making their recurring revenue stream on consumables and rotatables, (repair and replace), items.

 

[Modoc]

that was for vonhef and jrsulo. I am always on the look out for vintage tools and industrial machines. the cool thing is you can usually still get parts for them.

 

[sberry]

A true testament to American exceptionalism, and quality. How much of this cheap imported **** do you think will still be around and operating 50+ years from now???? I bet I could answer that one (F*** All), as my Canadian friends would say. To take the other side of that argument though, company's need you to have to replace stuff, they can't survive by making products that last 50+years any more. The old business model depended on selling the product, then making their recurring revenue stream on consumables and rotatables, (repair and replace), items.

It cost a lot more than a cheap one today too.

 

[Modoc]

It cost a lot more than a cheap one today too.

Not sure what you mean by this?

 

[REKIII]

It cost a lot more than a cheap one today too.

Not sure what you mean by this?

Meaning that the compressor cost a lot if you consider what it was bought for in 1959. It is probably comparable to a $2500 compressor today.....which could arguably last 50 years.....maybe.

 

[Falcon67]

Two questions for Finky198, Falcon67 (Chris), and vonhef (Hef) please...

I assume your 90* elbows plus high mounts are to reduce intake noise, so how is that working out? On my 8 gal comp, I measured my dBs with the intake filter stock (straight out), 90* up, and without. They were all about the same.

And how do y'all keep your high mounted intakes vertical? I tried to fit a 90* elbow fitting up to the intake filter on my comp. I was scared of tightening it up too tight and it vibrated loose down each time it turned on (my manual stressed that it should only be screwed in finger tight). That plus no reduction in intake noise with the elbow lead me to go back to the stock configuration.

Made zero difference in measured sound pressure from the compressor, measured at 20'. But IMHO it does give a easier breathing airway into the compressor.

Pipe dope that stiffens is one solution, the other is the snug the pipe from the compressor in the head, then hold it with a pipe wrench while forcing the elbow where you need it. Or just a strap from the pipe to the wall.

 

[Modoc]

Meaning that the compressor cost a lot if you consider what it was bought for in 1959. It is probably comparable to a $2500 compressor today.....which could arguably last 50 years.....maybe.

That's what I thought he was getting at. That was when a $ was worth something
and they had to last. I'm still of the "Quality" vs. "Price" mindset, reminds me of the old saying my grand father used to say "if you think it cost a lot to do it right the first time, try doing it twice and see how much it cost you". Kind of like the wife buying cheap shoes, she'll wear them for a while then get another pair. When I say you just bought some shoes a while back what happened to them? "they hurt my feet or they fell apart", Me, thats why you buy a good pair! her I didn't want to spend that much! now she has two pair of cheap pieces of **** that cost more than one good pair. sorry to get off subject.

 

[StevenMorgan]

Here is my compressor manifold I just finished up. I've done a lot of copper sweating but very little black pipe fitting, not to mention my lack of threading tools.

A 3/4" hydraulic hose connects to a vertical high pressure manifold with 50' of 3/4" type L copper. From here it goes to a filter and regulator and to any downstream drops I want to add in the future.

A drain tee is at each lower point in the manifold, reducing down to some high pressure 3/8" poly tubing that connects to a common drain manifold at the compressor's drain. I am still waiting on my solenoid valve to arrive, but all the drains will be taken care of with a custom 1/2" auto-drain setup to discharge outside the garage.

This is the start of my permanent piping, and I'll modify the downstream system with a trunk line and drops as I finish wiring and insulating the walls.

 

[myredracer]

My setup. The garage isn't quite finished and still messy. I had a bunch of 3/4" & 1/2" copper laying around so that was "free". Had most of the brass fittings I used but had to buy a few. I installed 1/2" copper in the ceiling cavity (occupied space above) before I researched compressor piping much otherwise would have used 3/4" all the way. There is about 40' of copper from the compressor to the point of use at each manifold. I know I overdid the number of regulators and outlets, but that's what I seem to do with stuff. Have numerous air tools & things so won't have to reset the pressure with each use. The main manifold has an IR filter/water separtor, a Wilkerson drier then a Motorguard filter for particulates. The mainfold at my workbench has 2 regulators, one for air tools and the other for blowgun. I filled 3/4" soft copper with sand to make the large radius bends.

 

[G20-Budo]

Wow Gil, that looks pretty serious..

 

[myredracer]

Wow Gil, that looks pretty serious..

Thanks. Forgot to mention that I used a bunch of 3/8" hi-flo couplers and had 3/8" male ends installed on new Kuri-Tec super-flexible hose that I got on Amazon (now sold out). Seems like it's no longer available and had one already that I liked. I bought 6 Beam vacuum hose hangers for my hoses and extension cords. Seems like my shop is almost done but I keep finding things that need to be done. Pffft...

 

[jrsulo]

that was for vonhef and jrsulo. I am always on the look out for vintage tools and industrial machines. the cool thing is you can usually still get parts for them.

Mine had some problems,,,,,it sat for 7 years after I bought it on ebay for $5,,,,but that price was for 3 air compressors,,,,finally got around to working on it and no part or gaskets available,,,,but the way it was built was a work of art ,,,,made gaskets and de-gunked the disc valves and some other odds and ends and she runs better than new,,,,pistons a cylinders looked brand new !!!!!

 

[BPJOOP93]

Thanks for all your ideas going to start mine this weekend hopefully things go well and I can post pics on Sunday

 

[BPJOOP93]

OK here it is. I still need to run the drops from the water traps down to the floor but other than that it is looking good and so far no more leaks. I had a few when I first Started here it is pick away at it if you want

 

[BPJOOP93]

One pic at a time??? And sideways. Wtf

 

[uminded]

I have a small silent air compressor that puts a lot of moisture into the lines. Do you think a 20' coil of 3/8" copper tube to a separator/regulator/desiccant would work better than no coil? Compressor is only 2.4CFM into a 20gal tank but a inline separator catches nothing and when I blow onto my hand I can feel it getting wet.

 

[Rossco]

Fairly simple system. 3/4 main line with 1/2 drop.

Kaeser 35CFM canister and E9 Filter, Norgren 1/2 Reg.

Two Hankison Filters 3/4 port post Outlet.



Where the elbow leaves the Reg, Iam gonna install a T and run a full 1/2 outlet chuck to power a Hungary 3/4 gun.

 

[BCreekDave]

That's what I thought he was getting at. That was when a $ was worth something
and they had to last. I'm still of the "Quality" vs. "Price" mindset, reminds me of the old saying my grand father used to say "if you think it cost a lot to do it right the first time, try doing it twice and see how much it cost you". Kind of like the wife buying cheap shoes, she'll wear them for a while then get another pair. When I say you just bought some shoes a while back what happened to them? "they hurt my feet or they fell apart", Me, thats why you buy a good pair! her I didn't want to spend that much! now she has two pair of cheap pieces of **** that cost more than one good pair. sorry to get off subject.

If she is like my wife, you are not really listening to her! They "fell apart" or "they hurt my feet" really means "I just don't like them anymore"!

 

[hnsy]

just getting into setting up my lines now, found this post really interesting/helpful

 

[Ironhorse74]

upload a gif

 

[kirkkw]

Not sure where to begin as I am feeling quite overwhelmed at the moment.

I have a 60 gallon Quincy 3.5 hp compressor not yet installed and that is the genesis of my questions. Please help!!

I have power to the compressor and have fixed the defect which the compressor had new from Quincy - they said bring it to the repair facility which was 50 miles away. Unfortunately, I have already destroyed the pallet it came on and didn't want to reload and haul the compressor, so I said send me the part and I do the repair - and so it was.

Now for the plumbing: I plan to run a car lift, motorcycle lift, PRG540 air riveter, Blue Point air hammer, air ratchet, 1/2' impact, bead blast cabinet, plasma cutter and to air up tires.

I believe all these things will run at 90 PSI, but that has to be confirmed. I will need at least a total of 6 drops in 2 rooms.

After reading lots of Garage Journal I have decided to use either Rapid Air or Pex for my lines and drops, probably 3/4". However, between the compressor and the rest of the plumbing I plan to use either 3/4" black pipe or copper tubing to make a few vertical lengths to cool the air and let moisture drop out.

I'm thinking two 10' vertical lengths of pipe would help to cool the air.

Question:
Is 18' of pipe enough to cool the air coming out of the compressor?

Any input?

 

[flatbill]

Does anyone have any experience with lead based solder on these copper air coolers? I built up a square fin cooler with a fan and installed it between the compressor head and the tank. Also used a "Franzinator" after the cooler. A 7.5 HP Curtis 2 stage. Running the bead blaster one of the solder joints melted and let loose with a bang. I plan to rebuild the cooler with either silver solder or braze. Any suggestions? Thanks, Billk

 

[roche]

in for later

 

[montanafordman]

I just got a new Quincy 5hp 60 gallon compressor and did some plumbing to cool the air coming off of it. What I came up with is based on what I had seen online. Time will tell how well it works limiting moisture but I managed to sweat it all without any leaks! I have a high pressure regulator to handle the pressure off the compressor, then about 35 feet of copper pipe to cool the air before going into my two water separator/regulators and filters. One filter regulator I used for my main air lines and the other I might use for painting. I used the Rapidair kit for my air lines and have outlets on both sides of my garage at the front, and one at the back.

 

[jrusher]

I just got a new Quincy 5hp 60 gallon compressor and did some plumbing to cool the air coming off of it. What I came up with is based on what I had seen online. Time will tell how well it works limiting moisture but I managed to sweat it all without any leaks! I have a high pressure regulator to handle the pressure off the compressor, then about 35 feet of copper pipe to cool the air before going into my two water separator/regulators and filters. One filter regulator I used for my main air lines and the other I might use for painting. I used the Rapidair kit for my air lines and have outlets on both sides of my garage at the front, and one at the back.

Looks great.. What size rapid air line did you use ? I bought some 1/2" rapid air to plumb my 40x40 shop and im thinking maybe i should of got 3/4' line? My main header will probably be about 80 feet of line

 

[-Brent-]

MontanaFordMan, how much (if anything) do you get in your filter connected to the Maxline? I assume that's the one use most often?

I fabricated my water trap with one less loop but it runs into a large dryer. I'm going to do a DIY desiccant dryer (like HAP's). I just have a few more items to collect. I should have it mostly done today.

 

[montanafordman]

Looks great.. What size rapid air line did you use ? I bought some 1/2" rapid air to plumb my 40x40 shop and im thinking maybe i should of got 3/4' line? My main header will probably be about 80 feet of line

I used the 3/4" kit. Probably overkill for my small garage, but oh well.

MontanaFordMan, how much (if anything) do you get in your filter connected to the Maxline? I assume that's the one use most often?

I fabricated my water trap with one less loop but it runs into a large dryer. I'm going to do a DIY desiccant dryer (like HAP's). I just have a few more items to collect. I should have it mostly done today.

I really just got it put up and have not even used it yet. This week I still need to drill holes in my concrete pad and get my compressor anchored. Time will tell I guess once I get going on the sheet metal work on my Ford Model A restoration and use a lot of air with my cutoff wheels and die grinder. I assume the water separator/filter connected to my maxline will collect the most water with enough use and maybe some in the drip legs and the first separator/regulator.

 

[skipnay]

Guys I need some help on parts to get my cooler going. Where do I start? Is this what I need? IR filter/water separtor, a Wilkerson drier then a Motorguard filter for particulates. Seen a few mention it but I copied and paste from Gil. I see some people actually use something like the Hayden fluid coolers. So what's the pro's and con's of each???

 

[RickDel]

Hey guys, I've been researching to get some help on setting up my new Quincy 5HP 60 gallon compressor. I'd like to create a set up like montanafordman but have a couple questions.

1. My Quincy outlet is only 1/2". So, should all plumbing pipes, fittings, regulators, filters, jumper hose, ect all be 1/2". I see some people saying to use 3/4, but other than additionally air storage, does it make a difference in CFM since the outlet is only 1/2"?

2. I also see some people setting up a filter/regulator after the jumper hose, before the copper plumbing. Since the air hasn't cooled at that point, shouldn't that be just a regulator? There's no point in having a filter that close, right?

Thanks - Rick

 

[Sareks2k]

After what I've read and the pictures here, I decided to go the horizontal copper piping zig zags. I just put this together last week!

I've since put a water catch with auto drain at the first drop and the 3 stage filter/regulator on the top at the end of the copper plumbing.

But I know what you really want to know is how I keep my walls so clean.

 

[Sareks2k]

@Rick Correct. At least from what I've read while researching for my setup. Ideally is 25-50 ft of pipe before the filter then regulator.

As I understand it, the only time to have a catch that close to the tank is after an aftercooler; before the tank.





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[casmurbax]

I used over 25 ft of 3/4 black pipe and a hydrualic hose and fittings from tractor Supply. not a drop of water at my first drop which is over 30 feet away from compressor.

 

[BCreekDave]

One thing to remember when designing these wall mounted multi elbow coolers is pressure drop. Every turn creates a drop in pressure. Not a big deal unless you are running a high flow device like a blast cabinet a big impact or similar device.
Here are the numbers:
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/compressed-air-pressure-drop-fittings-d_1279.html


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[slodat]

Champion 7.5HP, 80 gallon tank with aftercooler and auto drain. System header is controlled through a soft start valve with a control switch by the main door that pressurized the header and enables the compressor control circuit.



Distribution is a hybrid of Rapid Air's FastPipe and MaxLine. I have a few of these large pressure gauges through the shop showing header pressure.

 

[-Brent-]

Awesome set-up, Slotdat!

 

[tlmartin84]

The Twins.........

View media item 68718
View media item 68621

 

[Citation]

That coil concept makes a lot more sense to me vs the zig-zags with sharp corners.