CrotalusAtrox
Well-known member
I think his point was I will clean up my mess and dispose of it correctly. I will not clean up the mess left by the last jack-wagon who thinks he is to good to clean up after himself.
VISE REPAIR 101 all vise repairs, lubricants, sources for parts and the tricks to fix
- Thread starter drivesitfar
- Start date
I think his point was I will clean up my mess and dispose of it correctly. I will not clean up the mess left by the last jack-wagon who thinks he is to good to clean up after himself.
CwazyWabbit
Well-known member
Very much a leave things as you found them 
CrotalusAtrox
Well-known member
OP
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Chilang: I can't say I know any welders in Arizona, but 1982 (part of his handle) might be or know one. also those bullets are small enough to fit in a flat rate USPS box and I just bought a broken one from another member and he sprayed in that expanding foam after he put my parts vise bullet in a plastic bag.
I hate to see those kind of vises broken like that just because somebody thought a BFH was the proper tool.
Outlaw: i'm hoping to buy or build a BIG shop some day in the near future so I can have one of those old 40's or 50's range/ovens to set in the shop to use. good luck on getting yours set up.
I hate to see those kind of vises broken like that just because somebody thought a BFH was the proper tool.
Outlaw: i'm hoping to buy or build a BIG shop some day in the near future so I can have one of those old 40's or 50's range/ovens to set in the shop to use. good luck on getting yours set up.
michjacket
Well-known member
I recently picked up a frozen Parker 954 vise off craigslist. I cleaned it up and got things moving, but found the threads heavily pitted with rust. Is there any where to purchase replacement parts for this? It is also missing the retaining collar.
On the bright side because of these issues I found this great website while looking for info! I cannot believe I have not stumbled across it before.
Thanks for any info!
On the bright side because of these issues I found this great website while looking for info! I cannot believe I have not stumbled across it before.
Thanks for any info!
Attachments
Last edited:
w1im
Well-known member
I had created a new thread for this issue before someone reminded me of this thread. I hope its ok to put it in both places.
I am in the process of restoring a Wilton 9300 vise I bought on craigslist.
The vise showed some signs of abuse. It has a chunk of the static jaw missing, just below the replaceable jaw and the handle looks like it has been hit with a hammer.
After taking it apart I found what looks like a crack in the leadscrew. I don't know if it is actually a crack, a repair, or just a defect in the metal.
The other half of the question is what to do about it. Should I ignore it and put the vise back together, attempt a repair, or replace the leadscrew?
I'm open to any suggestions on how to proceed.
Thanks
I am in the process of restoring a Wilton 9300 vise I bought on craigslist.
The vise showed some signs of abuse. It has a chunk of the static jaw missing, just below the replaceable jaw and the handle looks like it has been hit with a hammer.
After taking it apart I found what looks like a crack in the leadscrew. I don't know if it is actually a crack, a repair, or just a defect in the metal.
The other half of the question is what to do about it. Should I ignore it and put the vise back together, attempt a repair, or replace the leadscrew?
I'm open to any suggestions on how to proceed.
Thanks
Attachments
Mark in Indiana
Well-known member
w1im,
I'm going to guess that that's a crack that's not been repaired very well. I don't think a defect that pronounced would leave the factory.
As far as what to do: If you let it go, it may last for ever, or the crack will grow into a break.
Repairing it: If you have knowledge of, and access to a tig welder & lathe, you can grind out the crack, drill a hole at each end of the crack, weld it back up and turn it down until smooth. Although torsional stress may be an issue, I repaired a 15" & 24" adjustable wrenches that way 25+ years ago, and they're still at work.
You can also try to find a replacement lead screw if you don't want to do the repair (safest bet).
Can you post a picture of the broken static jaw?
Good luck.
I'm going to guess that that's a crack that's not been repaired very well. I don't think a defect that pronounced would leave the factory.
As far as what to do: If you let it go, it may last for ever, or the crack will grow into a break.
Repairing it: If you have knowledge of, and access to a tig welder & lathe, you can grind out the crack, drill a hole at each end of the crack, weld it back up and turn it down until smooth. Although torsional stress may be an issue, I repaired a 15" & 24" adjustable wrenches that way 25+ years ago, and they're still at work.
You can also try to find a replacement lead screw if you don't want to do the repair (safest bet).
Can you post a picture of the broken static jaw?
Good luck.
Last edited:
w1im
Well-known member
Thanks Mark
I have a lathe, but I've never done any welding. I have a friend who does, so it may be a possibility, but I'll keep my eyes open for a replacement lead scrnew.
I wouldn't be opposed to making one, probably with a purchased acme screw, but I'd need to think about how to connect the block that the handle goes through to the screw that would be strong enough.
I'm thinking the broken chunk shouldn't be too much of an issue. Let me know what you think.
Attachments
ssdave
Banned
Okay, I need some help from someone familiar with a Columbian 504 1/2. I picked one up cheap because the lead screw will close the vise but not open it. After looking at it closely, the dovetailed vise nut backs out. Of course, when you tighten the screw, it draws up correctly. The vise is in great shape otherwise. A really nice, usable vise.
The vise nut shows hammering at the back. I've read that the Columbian 50X's have a tapered dovetail, and that they were just friction fit originally. Apparently, previous owners "fixed" it by hammering it in until it jammed. I'd like to try a more reliable fix.
I've also read that they have a pin just behind the nut, that locks the nut in, but gives it the ability to "wiggle" a bit. I can see no evidence that there was ever a pin through the base on my vise.
What is the proper repair for this? The two things that I have thought of are: Tap a hole through the base and into the nut, and thread in a headless bolt to hold the nut. That would also keep it from wiggling about, and I've read that it may bind up then. The other alternative is to tap the hole behind the nut, and insert a screw until it is behind the nut. That would allow the nut to wiggle about. I guess a third alternative is to tap a hole in the base, under the nut, and then insert a screw, tightening it until it jams the nut against the top of the keyway.
What say you guys that know a lot more about these than me?
The vise nut shows hammering at the back. I've read that the Columbian 50X's have a tapered dovetail, and that they were just friction fit originally. Apparently, previous owners "fixed" it by hammering it in until it jammed. I'd like to try a more reliable fix.
I've also read that they have a pin just behind the nut, that locks the nut in, but gives it the ability to "wiggle" a bit. I can see no evidence that there was ever a pin through the base on my vise.
What is the proper repair for this? The two things that I have thought of are: Tap a hole through the base and into the nut, and thread in a headless bolt to hold the nut. That would also keep it from wiggling about, and I've read that it may bind up then. The other alternative is to tap the hole behind the nut, and insert a screw until it is behind the nut. That would allow the nut to wiggle about. I guess a third alternative is to tap a hole in the base, under the nut, and then insert a screw, tightening it until it jams the nut against the top of the keyway.
What say you guys that know a lot more about these than me?
w1im
Well-known member
I would avoid anything that puts a pin or screw through the base and into the nut because when the vise is clamped down, the nut will exert force on the pin/screw instead of the dovetail as it is supposed to.
This is a photo of my Columbian 504. Note the pin. Look carefully at yours to see if the pin was sheared off and the remainder has blended in with the vise body.
If there really is no pin in yours, I would drill a hole and put one in. That is the original design and works just fine.
Attachments
Mark in Indiana
Well-known member
w1im,
Page 149 of this thread, posts 2976 & 2977, I show how I repaired a broken foot with Liquid steel. You may be able to do that because the shelf isn't completely broken.
Page 149 of this thread, posts 2976 & 2977, I show how I repaired a broken foot with Liquid steel. You may be able to do that because the shelf isn't completely broken.
w1im
Well-known member
Very cool. I've never heard of liquid steel before. I may have to try that.
toolferone
Well-known member
Picked up this Wilton 745 on CL for $45 today. It is missing both sets of jaws. The date stamp is 1988. Do we know when they started making these over seas? Any info would be appreciated. I don't need the pipe jaws and I'm thinking about making the other jaws myself. I'll do a full paint strip and repaint on it. Any thoughts on the crummy fit at the tail end?
Last edited:
toolferone
Well-known member
Reserved for above finished restoration.
scooternut
Well-known member
Question for you Parker guys/gals. This is my first, it is in really good condition, but the main screw is a bit sloppy In the dynamic.
The front to back seems adjustable by the retaining collar, or with shims. I have some brass. But, what i don't like is some up and down slop.
When evaluating, i noticed this ill fit of the collar. The bolt is straight. Any experience here? My first thought was to file the body down to bring the collar in, and at the right angle to eliminate that sloppy appearance.
Yes it's heavy, yes it's solid as can be. But, sorry Parker guys, a Reed it is not!!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Outlawmws
Well-known member
I've seen that fairly commonly, and a LITTLE bit of grinding on the back of the lower part of the collar will help, BUT too much and you will get into problems where its dragging the main screw. If you can get it vertical, I'd stop there and use shims. (Dr Scott can give a lot better advise here..).
CRSINMICH
Well-known member
michjacket: Welcome to the group. Keep posting and let us know how you are doing. Unfreezing stuck vise parts is a popular topic on this thread. There are several GJ members who live in your area including me.
In case you haven't found it yet, there is a main vise thread for general vise information/questions/bragging. Here's the link:http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=44782&page=2211
KMScott
Well-known member
Question for you Parker guys/gals. This is my first, it is in really good condition, but the main screw is a bit sloppy In the dynamic.
The front to back seems adjustable by the retaining collar, or with shims. I have some brass. But, what i don't like is some up and down slop.
When evaluating, i noticed this ill fit of the collar. The bolt is straight. Any experience here? My first thought was to file the body down to bring the collar in, and at the right angle to eliminate that sloppy appearance.
Yes it's heavy, yes it's solid as can be. But, sorry Parker guys, a Reed it is not!!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I wrote a blog about this issue, yes nurse Outlaw had it diagnosed correctly. The collar should sit perpendicular with the spindle shoulder and not be tight, the shims are used to take up the back lash. Shim material should be the hard SS type found at places like MSC and McMasterCarr.
Your collar looks like a replacement that was not fit properly. I agree with you on the Reeds, Parker has several issues in their vise design. As for the up and down, most Parker's Dynamic jaw support had a counterbore to nest the spindle. Parker vises need a machine shop to repair correctly. Good luck.
Here is my blog. http://wiltonbenchvise.com/washers-and-collars/replacing-the-chas-parker-collars
scooternut
Well-known member
Thank you KM and OUTLAW.
That blog entry is very helpful. Thinking I will go at it with a nice sharp hand file and some shims when I get some time. Will be real nice vise with that tightened up there.
That blog entry is very helpful. Thinking I will go at it with a nice sharp hand file and some shims when I get some time. Will be real nice vise with that tightened up there.
michjacket
Well-known member
Thanks for the welcome CRSINMICH! That thread you linked is how I found the website to begin with!
I have the vise free - the former owner decided to paint it while it was assembled and basically glued it together. It functions fine now but the threaded rod is so pitted that I wonder how long it will last. I bought it to use so function is more important to me than appearance. I will just keep an eye out for parts I can use. I actually found the retaining collar but it is more expensive than what I paid for the whole vise! I think I will fabricate my own.
CRSINMICH
Well-known member
michjacket: Did you notice KMScott's post #3024 two before yours? If you haven't already, you should check out his blog entry about Parker collars.
michjacket
Well-known member
Yes, thanks I read the post but I will check out the blog.
ssdave
Banned
Thanks,
Took it out today, and wire brushed off the base. A pin hole appeared, it was full of grease and dirt and rust and no pin. Easy fix. Everything works as it should, and no apparent damage, only wear and a few hammer marks. Not bad for $30
I stripped it all the way down, and put the dynamic jaw in the electrolytic bath, should be clean tomorrow, and I'll put in the static piece. One more to do the handle and screw, and it'll be ready to start doing a bit of clean up and sanding/filing/smoothing in preparation for paint. Looking forward to having it ready to use.
Here's some pictures:
Attachments
CrotalusAtrox
Well-known member
So doing some research on welding cast iron, yes it can be done and I am sure a lot of you know this, it is hit and miss if the weld will hold, cracking could occur even if cooled properly and its not cheap if you dont have a welder. So I decided that the Wilton will be cleaned up painted and either used as my chainsaw sharping vise ( Love Stihl Chainsaws) or maybe sold, full discloser of course.
[/URL][/IMG]
Last edited:
HCNDM
Well-known member
So doing some research on welding cast iron, yes it can be done and I am sure a lot of you know this, it is hit and miss if the weld will hold, cracking could occur even if cooled properly and its not cheap if you dont have a welder. So I decided that the Wilton will be cleaned up painted and either used as my chainsaw sharping vise ( Love Stihl Chainsaws) or maybe sold, full discloser of course.[/URL][/IMG]
Cast iron is indeed a pita to weld. It does braze nicely though. Brazing can be a strong bond.
I have heard of good results with tig welding using a silicon bronze filler material but have no personal experience with that.
I plan to order some silicon bronze next time I order filler.
ssdave
Banned
OP
drivesitfar
Well-known member
DAVE: how big is that Columbian? best of luck with the Electrolysis and is this the first time you've tried it?
Chilang: some brazing jobs are actually stronger than steel and since you are in GOD'S WAITING ROOM and it's already warm maybe you can find an old timer that still has all his brazing skills and a steady hand. or maybe one with all the skills and equipment and time to teach you. or just keep your eye open for a good static jaw on Wilton that has a busted dynamic so you can Frankenstein them together so to speak.
good luck
Chilang: some brazing jobs are actually stronger than steel and since you are in GOD'S WAITING ROOM and it's already warm maybe you can find an old timer that still has all his brazing skills and a steady hand. or maybe one with all the skills and equipment and time to teach you. or just keep your eye open for a good static jaw on Wilton that has a busted dynamic so you can Frankenstein them together so to speak.
good luck
CrotalusAtrox
Well-known member
The great part about this Vise is I am already $50 to the plus because I bought it with a chainsaw that I sold for more then I paid for everything. . I though about the brazing side but it would still be a repaired vise same with welding, so going to go with your second option find a static jaw. I will just have to be patient until a static shows up. For lighter duty work it should be fine as is
Last edited:
ssdave
Banned
It's a 4 1/2" (number 504 1/2). I use electrolysis pretty routinely, have a permanent setup with about 35 gallon container that I can put some pretty big stuff in. Just got the main vise body out and cleaned it up, came out nice again. Put the screw/nut/handle in tonight, tomorrow will be all done with electrolysis. Unfortunately I don't have a shop at the moment, so will have to wait to sand and smooth the vise and sandblast it to give some roughness for the paint to adhere to.
Attachments
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Dave, you really don't need to sandblast to paint a vise. If you are concerned about adhesion, clean, then use Jasco metal etch, then paint.
ssdave
Banned
I know, Outlaw, sandblast is just the easy way. Particularly with something that has lettering like this.
GETRIDAONE
Well-known member
I have noticed that media blasting works really well after Electrolysis. I guess it loosens all the rust, paint, grease and dirt so it comes cleaner with less effort.
OP
drivesitfar
Well-known member
SS: some of the guys (and gals) are using glass bead instead of sand. are you using sand? since the vise looks so clean i'm guessing you don't blast it very much and just to rough it up.
Fretters puts on BLO on is cleaned vises after Electrolysis and if he wants to paint he's had good results just painting over the dried on BLO.
your vise your color, but it looks pretty nice NAKED.
Fretters puts on BLO on is cleaned vises after Electrolysis and if he wants to paint he's had good results just painting over the dried on BLO.
your vise your color, but it looks pretty nice NAKED.
Loydski29
Well-known member
Do you have a picture of your electrolysis set up? I'm looking to build one.
OP
drivesitfar
Well-known member
LOYD: check out this thread and I asked more questions than most would and I still need to set it up. I've helped many members set up there E tanks that took about 15 minutes to an hour depending if you have it all laying around. I was going to leave it inside my shop, but since have decided to make an outdoor one like some of the members do that use their tanks daily.
now I have the horse water Rubbermaid trough and i'm probably going to use steel since I have a fair amount laying around. otherwise I might buy some graphite because I heard it might work a little cleaner.
here's the link to a great thread the members made.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=237752&highlight=homemade+electrolysis
now I have the horse water Rubbermaid trough and i'm probably going to use steel since I have a fair amount laying around. otherwise I might buy some graphite because I heard it might work a little cleaner.
here's the link to a great thread the members made.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=237752&highlight=homemade+electrolysis
Loydski29
Well-known member
Thanks Drives I'll check it out
thejudges69
Well-known member
Suggestions to get this Free'd up and open? I don't have the spindle so I can't unscrew it.
OP
drivesitfar
Well-known member
JUDGE: do you have a screw for it if you get it apart? many ways to get it apart. I saw you wanted to use a sledge hammer and hope you were joking. yes? I had a 100 year old vise that might have sat outside in the rain for 90 of those years and put it in a 3 gallon bucket with 2 gallons of vinegar and pulled it out in a week and it was free. the handle was still stuck because it wasn't in the vinegar so turned it the other way with the handle in the soup and ended up putting something in front of the bucket and forgot about it. 3 months later I found it and vinegar actually eats cast iron. the vise and handle were free though. if you do use vinegar wash it all off after you take the vise out of the bucket and dry it completely.
another option is E tank and look at the thread a couple posts ago for the best Homemade electrolysis thread on GJ if you haven't done it before. or you can put it in a 5 gallon bucket of diesel and let it sit for a few days. other chemicals will work and just throwing out a few options.
good luck and post up how you ended up freeing it up. having both parts of that vise is actually good because there are usually broken ones around where you can maybe buy the screw and parts for less than $50 and maybe make some jaws. if you had to buy new parts for that vise get ready to spend some serious cash.
another option is E tank and look at the thread a couple posts ago for the best Homemade electrolysis thread on GJ if you haven't done it before. or you can put it in a 5 gallon bucket of diesel and let it sit for a few days. other chemicals will work and just throwing out a few options.
good luck and post up how you ended up freeing it up. having both parts of that vise is actually good because there are usually broken ones around where you can maybe buy the screw and parts for less than $50 and maybe make some jaws. if you had to buy new parts for that vise get ready to spend some serious cash.
thejudges69
Well-known member
A sledgehammer would be a little extreme but wouldn't rule it out lol. I just actually meant maybe wrap it a couple time to see if maybe someone screwed it in tight and it was just stuck. I do not have the spindle. The question is whether it's worth fixing. I'd like to get it open and working if possible and be able to use it with my big bullet in my new shop.
I was asking another member about a broken vise on eBay for next to nothing but it is apparent a 745 and no one knows if the spindle will work on this 1760.
thejudges69
Well-known member
Oh, and since diesel is readily available, I think I will go that route, let it soak for a few days or a week while I'm trucking. The vinegar could be bad if I don't get home in time to clean it off.