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Vise and Grinder stands. I'm looking for ideas on how to use several in limited space

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drivesitfar

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FB: did you do a build thread on your stand because it looks familiar? in any case WELL DONE!!

it looks like the post is from some other stand or do tell??

Doc: thanks for the KUDOS. I just noticed I have a crack in the swivel base of that vise so i'm really going to need to learn how to braze some day.

ALL: I just noticed a two page thread come up with a few vise stands in it so here's the link. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=140965
 
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Bunit98

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Here's mine. Painted record blue to Match vise and anvil
 

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bagged89s10

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"Really cool grinder stand" on OWWM, bonus - Block grinder content!

http://owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=77&t=170134

"I bought a grinder & shop built sander from the estate of a retired Delta Airlines machinist. The grinder is nice & the sander looks like it is well made, but the really cool part are the stands. They are made from scrap aircraft parts. The posts I think are landing gear parts, but I'm not sure about the bases."


That's a badass looking stand!
 

bagged89s10

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Adding provisions for bolting in the event it was required wouldn't take much work.

I use a grinder stand and red head drop in anchors. Have several locations throughout the shop to mount it. When the holes are not in use I use Allen screws to prevent debris from getting into the threads.


Point I'm making is I don't think it is worth the added expense to try to factor out the rare occasion that an average weight stand will require more weight to combat movement. For those occasions you could hand tighten some bolts in the floor.



What size bolts and anchors do you use? I want to add some for a vise stand and my bead roller, but want to be able to move them out of the way too. They won't stress the concrete and cause cracks?



I have been using 3/8". Never had issues with concrete.


So I just started working for Hilti and I've had the chance to use some of our awesome concrete anchors. I've convinced myself to install some stainless flush mount drop in anchors, in a few places around my garage. Then I can have a better vise stand that's sturdy, but I'll still be able to move it out of the way easily by unbolting a few bolts.
 

ilovevocs

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So I just started working for Hilti and I've had the chance to use some of our awesome concrete anchors. I've convinced myself to install some stainless flush mount drop in anchors, in a few places around my garage. Then I can have a better vise stand that's sturdy, but I'll still be able to move it out of the way easily by unbolting a few bolts.


You won't regret it.


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Muggzy

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So I just started working for Hilti and I've had the chance to use some of our awesome concrete anchors. I've convinced myself to install some stainless flush mount drop in anchors, in a few places around my garage. Then I can have a better vise stand that's sturdy, but I'll still be able to move it out of the way easily by unbolting a few bolts.
Got pics?

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drivesitfar

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Chief: I agree the floor looks nicer than the hardwood in my kitchen, dining room and entrance of my home. can you take a few more pictures of the vise and how it connects to the press? very cool idea and really nice shop.

thanks for sharing

Bagged: so how do you install those? do you just drill holes in your garage floor and put in epoxy or what makes them stay in the cement?
 

bagged89s10

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Chief: I agree the floor looks nicer than the hardwood in my kitchen, dining room and entrance of my home. can you take a few more pictures of the vise and how it connects to the press? very cool idea and really nice shop.



thanks for sharing



Bagged: so how do you install those? do you just drill holes in your garage floor and put in epoxy or what makes them stay in the cement?



You drill the right size and depth hole, drop the anchor in, use a special punch like tool (which doesn't cost much) to set the anchor, and you're done.
 

Muggzy

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You drill the right size and depth hole, drop the anchor in, use a special punch like tool (which doesn't cost much) to set the anchor, and you're done.
How is this not going to spin when tighening or (more likely) loosening the bolt? I can see the splits at the bottom, but the tube is smooth and round.

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bagged89s10

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How is this not going to spin when tighening or (more likely) loosening the bolt? I can see the splits at the bottom, but the tube is smooth and round.

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When you tap in the anchor with the setting tool, the bottom of the anchor expands. They are stronger than you may think.
 

BD1

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I have used HILTI for around 35 years and there are none better. The are many to choose from . I still have some of the older shells . Great products !
Remember to blow out the hole n floor before setting anchor .
 

80jeepCJ7

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What would you guys consider to be the optimum height of a vise stand, to the base of the vise? I'm 6 ft tall. I got some stuff at the scrap yard today to build one.
 

Provincial

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The height of the stand should put the top of the vise jaws at a comfortable working height. This means about the bottom of your rib cage or a little higher.

To determine what is right for you, measure from the floor to your elbow with that arm straight down. This is probably the lowest you want the top of the jaws of the vise.

Pretend that you are hacksawing something. How high would you want the work?

I find that it is easier to adapt to a vise that is mounted too high than one that is mounted too low. My back tells me when it is too low!
 
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83VillageRepair

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JB: is that a picture of your shop with all those cool grinders and sanders on those stands? i see 2 Baldors, 2 Burrkings, 2 sanders and maybe a shaper in the corner. all are on stands like you built for your Parker vise which also looks great BTW.

or if that isn't your shop care to share a few pictures of yours which must be amazing?

no wonder you make those awesome knives you do.

McClean: thanks for posting more pictures and details of you multy tool stand.

All: i have a question for those of you that do this all the time. say i did find a farm with a rusted out or broken disk rototiller attachment how do you get those disks off so you can haul them back home. i'm thinking some of you carry a torch with a couple tanks with oxy/ace in them to cut those apart or do tell please.
Drive....Farmers change the discs every year or so for new sharp ones. You ask for the junk ones out of their iron pile. They usually have stacks of them.

Wade
 

sanddan

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I just finished this stand for my Baldor grinder. I saw the design on Doc's Shop Projects site.

P1030900.jpg
 

80jeepCJ7

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Provincial, thanks for the tips on stand height. Here is the stand I've built, still need to drill holes and paint it. Half of the Reed is sitting on it.
 

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drivesitfar

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83VR: thanks for the tip and I've actually seen a few on auction sites now that I know what they are.

Sandan: thanks for Doc's link and did you make it almost exactly the same way he did? looks like a lot of work and it's a great looking stand. how big is your Baldor?

80Jeep: before you attach the big Reed 206 can you take a few pictures of the underside of the truck rim so we can see how you welded it and how long the pipes are? WELL DONE so far. also was that nice REED missing it's original swivel base or was it broken? looks like a great vise and nice color on the restoration. post up more pictures of the finished stand with your big Reed on it when you can.

Prov: nice explanation of how to mount a vise.
 

80jeepCJ7

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DIF, there is no welding on the underside of the rim. Just a bead between each lug hole. The pipe and rim I got at a scrap yard. The pipe was some kind of smokestack or flue. The 12 inch pipe was a cap on the 6 inch pipe, attached with some 1/4" plate wings. The 6 inch pipe is Sched 80 I think, about 3/8" thick wall. I cut it to 22". The inverted cap is about 4", the rim is about 12". It puts the vise jaws a couple inches above my elbow height. Here is a close up of the beads on the wheel.

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drivesitfar

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Jeep: thanks for the explanation and the better pics of your welds. did you see my questions about your Reed 206 and it's missing base? would love to see more pictures of the vise sitting on top of your finished stand when you have some time. are you going to put wheels on your base or just roll it on the edge like I do with mine that is under my baldor buffer?
 

80jeepCJ7

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Sorry I forgot to answer that, the base was missing when I found it at a yard sale. I do have it in the Vise restoration thread. There's a lot to keep track of there :). I will add some pics to both threads when it's all done.
 
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drivesitfar

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JEEP: when you have some time i'm sure more members and lurkers than I would appreciate pictures of the vise and finished stand. good luck

also no kidding there is a lot to learn, remember and teach on GJ and I think i'm doing it to keep my brain active so I don't end up with MS like my Dad or Alzheimer's like my aunt and several friends have had. Eating good, always moving and thinking is the key to a happy life and of course having a happy wife is at the top of the list.

cheers and have a great weekend
 
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drivesitfar

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ALL: this isn't mine, but thought it was an interesting idea and solution to those of us that like these old Blueprint cabinets.

this style of vise mounting might work on other applications and hadn't thought of this one before. anybody else have something like this?

anybody else have something they want to share please do. or if you found something on this thread that solved your issue feel free to post saying so and post pictures if you built it or bought one.

have a great weekend everybody
 

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sanddan

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Sandan: thanks for Doc's link and did you make it almost exactly the same way he did? looks like a lot of work and it's a great looking stand. how big is your Baldor?

It's pretty close to how he did his. The fab work wasn't that bad, I used my plasma to cut the tubing. The paint prep was the least fun part of the project but necessary for the "cast" look. I have a buffer that needs a stand so that might be the next project.

The buffer is a 1/2hp 7" Baldor that I got off CL.
 

cbacres

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Hey all, here's my mocked up still being designed bench and 2" x72" belt grinder station. I had a stand and a 30" diameter 1/2" plate laying around and it started out a station for my blocks. I finally bought a belt grinder and wanted to add to it.
4649d30ff9f24273943df0f5477dca1a.jpg
2b96b97d56f17f93d8cf29482de2277b.jpg

With the belt grinder, I don't really need much dedicated to grinding wheels, so I want to have an assortment of wire, cut off, flap or some sort of abrasive wheels. I will dedicate one smaller block with a green stones for tig tungsten, drill bit and lathe tool sharpening.

I'm also thinking of installing a drill Chuck on one for general purpose use.

On the stand, the round table will rotate so I can position the blocks where needed to use. I will mount the table on a old Dodge front hub assembly. I'll install some sort of a pin to hold in place after spinning around. I'll probably run a cord through the hub and make up a outlet above table for the grinders to plug into.

One other thing I want to do is cut openings through the table at each exhaust of the block to help contain grinding dust the best I can, maybe in a tray underneath.

Anyway, that's my creation. What do you all think?

Love to hear your feedback.

Thanks
 
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drivesitfar

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CB: as far as your cool grinder stand I have a thought that you may or may not like. since you have less room in your garage in Florida and you already own a nice BELT SANDER that you can have a variety of belts maybe transport your COOL grinder stand and blocks to your barn in KENTUCKY or OHIO wherever it is and set up each block with different wheels there.

OR sell all the blocks and have a nice table to set in your new covered area to sit next to when friends stop by or if you and your bride want to eat dinner or lunch out there. use the funds from the blocks to pay for more STUFF that you need.

very nice idea and not sure how easy it would be to cut holes in the middle for hoses. also not sure i'd be willing to chop up a nice piece of 1/2 inch steel plate either.

thanks for posting it.

It also looks like your new AVATAR brought out the T MAN so are you going to keep it? it has a special part in my heart with JESSICA from ROGER RABBIT because my 28 year old daughter might have watched that movie maybe 300 times when she was 1 and she new how to push play and rewind and fast forward too.
 

scooternut

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Image1462405871.984734.jpg

Welding that harbor freight receiver on to this steel bench that i was cleaning up was a REALLY good thing to do.


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bagged89s10

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The height of the stand should put the top of the vise jaws at a comfortable working height. This means about the bottom of your rib cage or a little higher.

To determine what is right for you, measure from the floor to your elbow with that arm straight down. This is probably the lowest you want the top of the jaws of the vise.

Pretend that you are hacksawing something. How high would you want the work?

I find that it is easier to adapt to a vise that is mounted too high than one that is mounted too low. My back tells me when it is too low!



I agree with that height. Kind of like the height of your workbench
 

Carves

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Simple piece of board for this little 3" vice.

The "keyhole" is routed out, on an angle, to offset a casting fault with the base.

A couple of clamps ... and it mounts almost anywhere.


CT%203%2007b_zpsmkxpbs9q.jpg



ohhhh wait ... this is the vice ... and grinder stand ... thread .. :D


CT%203%2012b_zps32kykes1.jpg
 

Jcrapola

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OK. Finally finished up the Reed 105. I built a stand for it outta scraps. I think I'm gonna add a hammer hanger off the left side (lefty). Outside of that it just needs paint and mount to floor.
 

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