My 2-Car Porcelain Tile Install....

[mrgooch]

What size tile was used in this project?

 

[OJ Bartley]

Just a quick note to say that my reno ramp transition is holding up well in the salt and ice.



(I hope that's not obscenely huge, I'm phone posting)

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[Rod N]

Looks good. Is the ramp outside?

 

[OJ Bartley]

Yep, that's the little 1 foot part of the floor that sticks out and transitions to the driveway. You can see the line where the door comes down. Going on 2 winters now I think? It's a Schulter reno ramp.

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[Dakota00]

What size tile was used in this project?

12"x12" were used.

OJ,

Looking good! The ramp should hold up fine for many years to come.

 

[mike93lx]

Dakota, incredible work on your garage. Every time i look at this thread, I "decide" to tile my garage and then backtrack due to cost. Maybe I'll actually pull the trigger at some point.

 

[Dakota00]

LOL! Pull the trigger Mike.

 

[absgraham]

Dakota, I just joined the forum and I have to say what an awesome job on this floor. I just moved into a brand new home with a builder who refused to omit the brush finish off the concrete floor; porcelain may be an alternative to epoxy (my original thought) if I can DIY and scrape enough $ together. I live in a similar climate (Ottawa) but my poured, brush finish floor is only 2 months old - how long should I safely wait for it to cure/crack if I were to tile?

If I could get results like this I'd be ecstatic.....

 

[duneslider]

Concrete should cure 28 days before tile (sort of, there are ways around that) but in general 28 days is the magic number.

 

[Dakota00]

Absgraham, thank you for the compliment!

As duneslider stated concrete cures in 28 days. But I would wait at least a full year before tiling, this will give the slab plenty of time to show its cracks.

 

[duneslider]

Absgraham, thank you for the compliment!

As duneslider stated concrete cures in 28 days. But I would wait at least a full year before tiling, this will give the slab plenty of time to show its cracks.

Or use a crack isolation membrane and go for it whenever you want. Its only money right?

Dakota used a super premium thinset which while it isn't labeled as crack isolation it probably provides a small degree of safety. Most I wager will not use that quality of a setting product. I still stand by the recommendation that a crack islolation membrane is a good idea in a garage especially in areas that get really cold.

 

[absgraham]

Good advice...the super premium thinset is part of the $ equation and its what I'd feel most comfortable with using, to reduce risk of cracks. I've done tiling before so I know what's involved for prepwork, but I just can't find any through porcelain tiles for $1 per square foot; although I have found glazed tiles for close to that. My garage is 18' x 20'; so I'm guessing this could cost around $1800 to $2000 minimum, and only if I'm lucky. Not a lot of options here, unlike the GTA.

Looks like I may wait until this fall or even next spring.

 

[OJ Bartley]

If you have time on your side, just keep an eye out for materials to go on sale and scoop them up when you find something. That's what I was able to do, and then they sat in the garage for probably more than a year until I got around to the project.

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[Dakota00]

Also keep an eye out on Kijiji, you might come across overstock or left over supply from commercial jobs.

 

[duneslider]

I honestly don't think that through-body is a requirement. If you find a color body that is similar to the glaze and a glaze that is fairly plain you will be fine. Any chips in through body will still be a dirt/grime magnet and will be noticeable. If the glaze matches fairly close to the body color it will be a similar situation. You will have an easier time finding a color body that matches the glaze. Through body is no where near as common now days.

 

[Angelfire]

Keep an eye on Build Direct as well. Yeah they have some very high dollar stuff but often stuff goes on clearance. I was patiently watching the tile I wanted and bam, one day it was on clearance. Got a great deal with all the specs I wanted (and yes, it's through body)

 

[Shashi27]

After reviewing this project and a few others on this site I am considering laying porcelain tile. I like the weathered wood look tiles that are 6 x 24. I thought I read these were not suitable but I did see some pics that others had applied these. The garage is about 650 sq ft. My other option is to have a company cone spray the poly. Thanks. Shashi

 

[SiGmA_X]

I have a working garage. Will PEI 4 be tough enough?

 

[Angelfire]

I have a working garage. Will PEI 4 be tough enough?

Search this forum....it has been discussed extensively. But to answer your question, porcelain is harder than concrete and if installed properly, will give you a floor that will hold up to significant abuse. There's a video here of Jack beating his floor with a sledge hammer to the point the camera is bouncing off the floor with no breakage/chips/etc....and he used cheap ceramic tile. It's all in the install.....

Cheers.

 

[SiGmA_X]

Search this forum....it has been discussed extensively. But to answer your question, porcelain is harder than concrete and if installed properly, will give you a floor that will hold up to significant abuse. There's a video here of Jack beating his floor with a sledge hammer to the point the camera is bouncing off the floor with no breakage/chips/etc....and he used cheap ceramic tile. It's all in the install.....



Cheers.

I am well aware porcelain is harder than concrete. My search skills are probably lacking, I came up short on PEI4 vs 5. Some guides on tile sites suggest using 5 in industrial use and while my use isn't that hard, I don't want to have damage issues when my ******* drops a ****** off the bench. (I've never done this but in pessimistic.)

I'll try searching again.

 

[duneslider]

Any Pei 4 or 5 will work. Remember though that PEI is a surface wear rating mostly. The test is a destructive test for the surface. Think of different types of material in a closed environment rolling around on the surface until damage occurs. This is NOT a drop heavy stuff on it until it breaks sort of a test.

Sure, porcelain is harder than concrete, so it glass. Porcelain is hard and brittle but also tempered. So, it is like/similar to tempered glass. Very hard and brittle. It will shatter if it receives the right amount of force. Dropping a transmission very well could shatter a tile and only slightly ding concrete because concrete has some give and is not as brittle.

In all honesty, a soft ceramic tile would probably handle drops better than porcelain but would be more likely to flake off its glaze.

There is no official test I am aware of that tests for strength when stuff is dropped on tile.

 

[HiWind]

Dakota- Your thread has convinced me to go with porcelain tile for my floor. I will use your thread as the "bible" when getting this project done. Seriously nice work.

me too! and the beauty is how easily a broken tile can be replaced while epoxy (so ****) cant be patched as easily ... hope I can find a big tile in a color that works

 

[P0sTaL]

I moved into my new built cookie cutter home LOL, 5 years ago. Is it normal to see more cracks on the floor this year then i did the last 4 years and is there any reason to be worried about laying down tile. I hate Canadian weather, makes it hard to pick the best time to do exterior projects

 

[Dakota00]

^^^ Check your PM.

 

[machsnell]

Dakota
Killer floor and good to see you continue to show and prove over years it s durability to the doubters.

I have waited for years and I believe officially moved from epoxy to tile.

I have a relatively large garage. 1600 square feet. I want to choose a larger tile to limit the grout joints and fit scale wise.

Is there a reason you did not choose a larger tile 12 by 24 or 24 by 24? Am I safe and wise to do so?

Thanks again for sharing with all.

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[Dakota00]

Dakota
Killer floor and good to see you continue to show and prove over years it s durability to the doubters.

I have waited for years and I believe officially moved from epoxy to tile.

I have a relatively large garage. 1600 square feet. I want to choose a larger tile to limit the grout joints and fit scale wise.

Is there a reason you did not choose a larger tile 12 by 24 or 24 by 24? Am I safe and wise to do so?

Thanks again for sharing with all.

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machsnell,

Thank you for the compliments!

Only reason I didn't go with a larger format tile, was because of cost. I scored the 12x12 for a really good price from one of my vendors. You can use any size you prefer, just as long as the tiles meet the dry and wet co-efficient of friction for a garage floor application.
Please make sure when installing, that your tiles have 100% adhesion with the thinset. I can't stress this enough if you want a long lasting and extremely durable tile floor, that will last for a lifetime!

 

[machsnell]

Got it thanks. Full coverage, back butter and don't use the leveling blocks with special pliers because they lift the tile .

Push them down and side to side to try and get full coverage on back of tile.

Thanks again for documenting and commenting on all the questions.


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[gerryw]

What size Trowel would you recommend ?( i prob missed it) 13x13 porcelain
After all my research on trowells ,whatever you say goes lol

Thanks

Gerry

 

[Dakota00]

Hey Gerry,

Recommend using a 1/2" square notch trowel.

https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.traditional-12-in-square-notch-flooring-trowel.1000170060.html

 

[gerryw]

Thanks for the link, I hope you realise the help this thread has been to us rookies, I have this thread on favorites for all your expert advice and OJ Bartleys rookie floor thread, with all your encouragement and tips

Gerry

 

[Dakota00]

Gerry,

That's the reason behind me started this thread... Purpose was to educate, help and to share my knowledge with those interested in tiling their garage floor.

Over the last few years I've received a ton of questions and feedback world wide stemming from this thread from those searching off of google.

I'll do my part in helping out!

 

[E12-535iTurbo]

You're a hero, and hopefully you'll also be my hero in a couple of months .

 

[OJ Bartley]

Atta boy, Gerry! Just so you know, my floor is holding up impeccably and has been rock solid. You can do this. Just follow the tips and advice from guys like Dakota, take your time, and do it right. You'll love it in the end even if it isn't "perfect".

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[gerryw]

Im on it as we speak!!
Will do a write up when done!

Dakota , what grout ?
Mapei i assume, need user friendly !!

Gerry

 

[OJ Bartley]

I think I used Mapei ultracolor... That's from memory though, and it's been a long day with a birthday for a 1 year old.

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[Dakota00]

Dakota , what grout ?
Mapei i assume, need user friendly !!

Gerry

Gerry, use Mapei UltraColor Plus or Laticrete Permacolor grout.

Make sure to read the instructions and understand they are both a fast setting grout. So don't mix too much that you can't keep up with the working time.

 

[ard]

OP- thanks for the thread, it has become a touchstone for those looking at tile!

Quick question:

My slab floor in the garage had some damp spots, when it was initially built about 22 years ago. Slab poured without a vapor barrier Dark area and efflorescence... However, more recently this has NOT been an issue. I am guessing this improved run off and mature landscaping has eliminated this. Although it still might be a slight or non-obvious issue.

This is a reason Ive never epoxied the garage floor (I did do my workshop)

The question- will a porcelain tile, as described in this thread (high quality tile and thinset, roll on isolation membrane) work out OK? If there was dampness, that I really am not seeing presently but still might be there on some days, cause issues with a tile floor?

TIA.

(Lots more questions as this evolves, but this is kind of a go-nogo question.)

 

[Dakota00]

ard,

You would need to do a moisture test first and foremost. Cut a 2ft x 2ft piece of clear plastic sheet and tape it down to the problem area on the slab. Wait 48hrs and see if any moisture comes to the surface. If so, tiling the area could be a problem.

Roll on waterproof membranes are effective when the water comes from the top. When moisture comes from the bottom this can break the adhesion bond that the membrane has to the concrete thus affecting the tiles.
You need to get the moisture problem under control and find the cause before you can tile.

 

[ard]

ard,

You would need to do a moisture test first and foremost. Cut a 2ft x 2ft piece of clear plastic sheet and tape it down to the problem area on the slab. Wait 48hrs and see if any moisture comes to the surface. If so, tiling the area could be a problem.

Roll on waterproof membranes are effective when the water comes from the top. When moisture comes from the bottom this can break the adhesion bond that the membrane has to the concrete thus affecting the tiles.
You need to get the moisture problem under control and find the cause before you can tile.

Thanks-

I was afraid of that.

Problem, IMO, is that I could do this test- for the next 4 weeks- and pass fine. Then we get a 4 day storm, 7 inches of rain and there is some mositure. (Rain here is sporadic) The point, I guess, is that I know that I DID have an issue- hence I cannot rule out a return issue in the future. Im not sure how I get around this...


More research I guess....

 

[Dakota00]

Thanks-

I was afraid of that.

Problem, IMO, is that I could do this test- for the next 4 weeks- and pass fine. Then we get a 4 day storm, 7 inches of rain and there is some mositure. (Rain here is sporadic) The point, I guess, is that I know that I DID have an issue- hence I cannot rule out a return issue in the future. Im not sure how I get around this...


More research I guess....

Out of curiosity, are the garage walls and ceiling sealed? Meaning completely drywalled with no ventilation or air that can circulate and/or exit out of the structure?