The VISES of Garage Journal

[kwoswalt99]

Close but the Athol from the Machinist site only has the quick release. The Patent drawing did not show a cutaway view of the ratchet handle, the size of the meatball and the 1/2 handle tells me it is ratcheting, maybe I am wrong. Maybe there is none to be had and they used a drawing of the Ratcheting handle to show the quick release workings.

Learn sumthin new every day.

 

[Brorex]

Brorex: Here are a few old ads for Cheney. I also included an old drawing of the Fulton Iron Works and patent drawings for Cheney. Don't beat on it. The anvil section is hollow.

Thanks for the info. I was heating up around during the jaw pin last night to remove it and what looked like solder started running. I assume someone drilled holes and then filled in with solder at some point. There's 2 holes straight across from each other and then another a little lower. Haven't looked at the opposite side of the lower hole yet. You can see the green dot by the 30. Those aren't factory holes are they?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

 

[va.grouseman]

Top, here's a baby that says patented, that I haven't done anything with as of yet.---Came with it's own 1/4 inch mounting slab.

 

[Bcom]

This one just showed up in the mail today. It show no signs of use or even ever being bolted down. Kind of curious about a few points on it. The lead screw sticks out past the end and there's no dust cap and the hardware attaching the swivel base isn't original. It's marked Chicago as all my babies are but this one is the "newest" one I have stamp dated 1-73. It also has about 99% of what looks to be the original finish. The most interesting point is the anvil pad was never ground. Any one have any insight as to why this is?

There was GJ member not too long ago that asked if i could have an end cap made for his baby bullet. His baby bullet also had the problem of the screw sticking out the back side too. Without an orginal cap to copy off of, i wasnt able to get a cap made. The original cap must have been pretty long to accomodate that screw unless the screw wasnt cut right and the cap was never put on at the factory

 

[topop101]

There was GJ member not too long ago that asked if i could have an end cap made for his baby bullet. His baby bullet also had the problem of the screw sticking out the back side too. Without an orginal cap to copy off of, i wasnt able to get a cap made. The original cap must have been pretty long to accomodate that screw unless the screw wasnt cut right and the cap was never put on at the factory

I really think it was just a poor fitting cap and didn't stay on long. My newest baby has the longest screw of all. so long that when the slide is completely out there is a turn or two left to remove it. I'm sure this was just a poor fit and I'll trim it down a bit with no issues.

 

[Advan]

Here's a Starret 015 given to me by the old man....

And after some wire brushing and primer:

Paint:

Still needs some polishing and overspray removal:

Some soft jaws and a new handle I whipped up in the machine shop:

Oiled, greased, and re-assembled. By the way, does anyone know the approximate age of this vise?

 

[topop101]

Top, here's a baby that says patented, that I haven't done anything with as of yet.---Came with it's own 1/4 inch mounting slab.

Thanks VA I see that one not only has the added anvil pad but a well raised anvil surface underneath . Curious , all pat pend. I have ever had had hollow static jaws , does the baby?

 

[topop101]

Yes, but even the pre WW2 Columbian vises have that.

How can you tell they are pre WWll ?

 

[topop101]

Tops you might have to shorten the spindle threads on that baby or have a custom end cap made. Here is a few dimensions on the caps I make. Very nice baby with the casting parting line still showing and a great collection.

I'm sure I will. I see no reason not to be able to. Do you?

 

[kwoswalt99]

How can you tell they are pre WWll ?

I'm going off of old ads. It seems the 20X series got a rear mounting tab much later than the other models. Rusty's 1943 ad doesn't show one. Other models had the rear tab since the 1920's, but weren't drilled. Mike's vise has the tab but isn't drilled. I think you are right, they started drilling them out after WW2. They might not have used current pics for their ads too, so who knows.

 

[Bobioz1]

Here's a Starret 015 given to me by the old man....

And after some wire brushing and primer:

Paint:

Still needs some polishing and overspray removal:

Some soft jaws and a new handle I whipped up in the machine shop:

Oiled, greased, and re-assembled. By the way, does anyone know the approximate age of this vise?

Nice looking handle. Can you share how you made it?

 

[oldldh]

And ---

ARREST-ME-RED

Too!!!!!!!!!

 

[CRSINMICH]

Thanks for the info. I was heating up around during the jaw pin last night to remove it and what looked like solder started running. I assume someone drilled holes and then filled in with solder at some point. There's 2 holes straight across from each other and then another a little lower. Haven't looked at the opposite side of the lower hole yet. You can see the green dot by the 30. Those aren't factory holes are they?

Brorex: I have a No. 20 and it has similar holes so it probably was done at the factory.

 

[BlueBomber]

Hi, vise afficianodos! Thought I'd share pictures of a Stephens No 4 vise with the storing return option, although the spring is broken. I rescued from a basement workbench in Billerica, MA last weekend. Those of you who frequent the Garage Sale thread would have seen some of the discussion and stories here:

 

[silver76vet]

Hi all just joined the forum. Thanks to Scot for posting pics of my no name vise. i am amazed how many are into vises and the knowlege of them.

 

[454ragtop]

Here's a Starret 015 given to me by the old man....

And after some wire brushing and primer:

Paint:

Still needs some polishing and overspray removal:

Some soft jaws and a new handle I whipped up in the machine shop:

Oiled, greased, and re-assembled. By the way, does anyone know the approximate age of this vise?

Real nice job, looks great. That's the only Starrett I can ever remember seeing without a "tongue" or jaw support where the dynamic slides into the static. Did it break off, or did it never have one?

 

[KMScott]

Hi all just joined the forum. Thanks to Scot for posting pics of my no name vise. i am amazed how many are into vises and the knowlege of them.

Thanks for joining and maybe you can add any more about your vise that none has identified yet. If it is a Chas Parker then it might have the Parker type jaws that we can not make out in the pictures. Hitting the smooth sides with a scotch brite pad or sand paper might show something. Or any other view that would show a unique view of your vise that would identify it. It looks like the jaws are smooth. Does the quick release work like I mentioned. Pretty unique vise.

 

[topop101]

Hi, vise afficianodos! Thought I'd share pictures of a Stephens No 4 vise with the storing return option, although the spring is broken. I rescued from a basement workbench in Billerica, MA last weekend. Those of you who frequent the Garage Sale thread would have seen some of the discussion and stories here:







Yep and I still want it!!!

 

[topop101]

I'm going off of old ads. It seems the 20X series got a rear mounting tab much later than the other models. Rusty's 1943 ad doesn't show one. Other models had the rear tab since the 1920's, but weren't drilled. Mike's vise has the tab but isn't drilled. I think you are right, they started drilling them out after WW2. They might not have used current pics for their ads too, so who knows.

kw

 

[Fretters]

Thanks for the info. I was heating up around during the jaw pin last night to remove it and what looked like solder started running. I assume someone drilled holes and then filled in with solder at some point. There's 2 holes straight across from each other and then another a little lower. Haven't looked at the opposite side of the lower hole yet. You can see the green dot by the 30. Those aren't factory holes are they?

Possibly factory. I've come across occasional pieces in the past where either flaws or holes have been lead filled, and it always appeared to be a factory fill.

 

[Shiftless]

Advan:
Real nice job on the clean up of that Starrett. But I agree with 454 that it does seem to be missing the support shelf under the slide. IMHO, somebody probably did an excellent job machining off a broken piece of cast iron.

 

[mike_paxton]

I've had this Prentiss 22 vise for a few months, but haven't been able to free up the pin to allow the dynamic jaw to swivel.

The method I'm currently using is to fill the underneath hole inside the body with vinegar (pic 3). I then on occasion will drain vinegar from hole and use a punch and given the limited space try and tap punch with side of hammer. I've also used a metal clamp to try and catch the punch on inside and secure it off to the side of the pin on top, but no movement of pin.

I've thought about submersing this particular section of vise in vinegar, in hopes that might work.

I've had other dynamic jaw Prentiss before, but this one has proved to be difficult.

Any suggestions on what to do, would be appreciated.

Mike

 

[paigej]

Heat it up maybe

 

[Fretters]

I've had this Prentiss 22 vise for a few months, but haven't been able to free up the pin to allow the dynamic jaw to swivel.

The method I'm currently using is to fill the underneath hole inside the body with vinegar (pic 3). I then on occasion will drain vinegar from hole and use a punch and given the limited space try and tap punch with side of hammer. I've also used a metal clamp to try and catch the punch on inside and secure it off to the side of the pin on top, but no movement of pin.

I've thought about submersing this particular section of vise in vinegar, in hopes that might work.

I've had other dynamic jaw Prentiss before, but this one has proved to be difficult.

Any suggestions on what to do, would be appreciated.

Mike

Can you get the nut out, to give some space? If so, a piece of threaded rod, a nut and a thick wall sleeve which slides over the rod, and use those to make a basic machinists type jack, with the nut being used to increase the length of rod protruding from the sleeve, with the end of the rod pushing against the pin. The bits at the bottom in the attached photo make a similar device.

 

[bagged89s10]

I've had this Prentiss 22 vise for a few months, but haven't been able to free up the pin to allow the dynamic jaw to swivel.



The method I'm currently using is to fill the underneath hole inside the body with vinegar (pic 3). I then on occasion will drain vinegar from hole and use a punch and given the limited space try and tap punch with side of hammer. I've also used a metal clamp to try and catch the punch on inside and secure it off to the side of the pin on top, but no movement of pin.



I've thought about submersing this particular section of vise in vinegar, in hopes that might work.



I've had other dynamic jaw Prentiss before, but this one has proved to be difficult.



Any suggestions on what to do, would be appreciated.



Mike

I've had good luck soaking pins using a 50% acetone and 50% transmission fluid mixture for a few days or a week. Then you can use a big punch from underneath if you take that main nut out. I'm 3 for 3 using this method.

 

[topop101]

I've had this Prentiss 22 vise for a few months, but haven't been able to free up the pin to allow the dynamic jaw to swivel.

The method I'm currently using is to fill the underneath hole inside the body with vinegar (pic 3). I then on occasion will drain vinegar from hole and use a punch and given the limited space try and tap punch with side of hammer. I've also used a metal clamp to try and catch the punch on inside and secure it off to the side of the pin on top, but no movement of pin.

I've thought about submersing this particular section of vise in vinegar, in hopes that might work.

I've had other dynamic jaw Prentiss before, but this one has proved to be difficult.

Any suggestions on what to do, would be appreciated.

Mike

jack bolt or porta power placed inside to push the pin out. Just place a coffee can over the top to catch the pin.

 

[topop101]

I've had this Prentiss 22 vise for a few months, but haven't been able to free up the pin to allow the dynamic jaw to swivel.

The method I'm currently using is to fill the underneath hole inside the body with vinegar (pic 3). I then on occasion will drain vinegar from hole and use a punch and given the limited space try and tap punch with side of hammer. I've also used a metal clamp to try and catch the punch on inside and secure it off to the side of the pin on top, but no movement of pin.

I've thought about submersing this particular section of vise in vinegar, in hopes that might work.

I've had other dynamic jaw Prentiss before, but this one has proved to be difficult.

Any suggestions on what to do, would be appreciated.

Mike

Mike I showed how to do this in vise repair thread earlier this year

 

[Advan]

Nice looking handle. Can you share how you made it?

Sure, I made in in three pieces to cut down on machining time, and just used 1/2"-NC threads. Tig welded one end, and loc-tite'd the living **** out of the other. That way I can still remove it without cutting in the future...

By the way, you can see the jaws aren't aligned properly in the last pic. Turns out this project isnt quite finished yet!

 

[Advan]

Real nice job, looks great. That's the only Starrett I can ever remember seeing without a "tongue" or jaw support where the dynamic slides into the static. Did it break off, or did it never have one?

Advan:
Real nice job on the clean up of that Starrett. But I agree with 454 that it does seem to be missing the support shelf under the slide. IMHO, somebody probably did an excellent job machining off a broken piece of cast iron.

I agree, it does seem odd, especially since all my other vises have that feature, even the Chinese ones. It definitely was never present however, you can tell it has never been broken or machined!

 

[kwoswalt99]

Some Starretts have the support, some don't. Don't know the story on that one.

 

[BlueBomber]

I was stripping down a pair of Ridgid pipe cutters for refinishing and decided to throw in this big Columbia 604 vise to the gentle attentions of the wire wheel.




There were traces of the original red paint under a silver second coat.



The jaws are in pretty good shape, so I'll just touch them up.




I love how the base reminds me of Kilroy!



I'm now in the very dangerous stripped-and-disassembled phase of any project. I decided to powder coat the vise instead of painting it, and so it will sit until New Years Eve when I'll have time to get to it again. Hopefully, all of you can help motivate me to get it reassembled before it becomes just another half finished project in my garage!

 

[mike_paxton]

Thanks for all the suggestions!!!

Fretters: That main nut is also stuck in place.

Topop101: Found your link on how you pulled a pin out of another old Prentiss with pics!!!

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5686892&highlight=topop101#post5686892

I also saw a reply underneath Topop101 in the Vise REpair 101 forum by CwazyWabbit in post 2917 that might work with a stuck nut and with tools I have on hand.

Knew I was under thinking this and thanks for all the great suggestions!!!

Mike

 

[Blue Frog]

I just won these beauties from an on-line auction. Can't wait to pick them up on Sunday!





Blue Frog

trijeff identified this small 2" vise as a baby Bison, but I'm having difficulty finding any more info on it. All I can say is that it's very smooth on operation, closes extremely tight, and looks to be a quality-built vise.

Blue Frog

 

[drivesitfar]

CRS: thanks for posting up the catalog pages of your Fulton anvil vise. since you have the #20, Brorex has the #30 and i own the #40 would you mind posting the specs of yours and we'll do the same?

Brorex: nice looking vise and i might have the same holes in my #40. can you post up the weight of your #30 and the jaw width?

TOP: thanks for the 411 about your other BABIES. another Wilton mystery to be solved that is for certain.

ALL: here's to the next 50,000 posts about a great old WELL MADE tool!!

 

[Shiftless]

Mike P:
Join the club!
I soaked the stuck pin on my 6 inch Reed double swiveller in 50/50 for a month and nothing budged. I removed the main nut and hammered on it with a steel rod and a BFH for maybe a hundred blows. Nothing.
Carla posted a very clever technique over on the vise repair thread involving fabricating a puller to remove the pin from the top. I am about halfway through with the set up to give it a try. Other obligations keep getting in the way.

 

[PghJKB]

trijeff identified this small 2" vise as a baby Bison, but I'm having difficulty finding any more info on it. All I can say is that it's very smooth on operation, closes extremely tight, and looks to be a quality-built vise.

Blue Frog

Blue
Check my post #49702 (for now, the post #s can change). It actually has 63mm jaws.

You are missing the clamp, and the bottom of the casting was drilled to accommodate screwing it to the PowArm.

The catalog reference will give you the specs.

JKB

 

[CRSINMICH]

Drives: Look just to the left of the F in Fulton and between the S and the E in vise on your No. 40. Looks like the same holes to me. One of the pictures that I posted is from an 1896 Chas. A. Strelinger catalog. That's what the C.A.S. & Co. on the side of the vise in the picture stand for. It gives the specs for all the models.

 

[CrotalusAtrox]

Got the Baby Bullet shined up. Need to get some better PICs will do that later

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[Nightshift]

Got the Baby Bullet shined up. Need to get some better PICs will do that later

Very nice pair-o-baby 920s. I have one as well that I got from Nick moons ago. I really like how you gave them a nice spit-shine on the jaw tops, jaw ends and hammer pad on the green one. Did you make the swivel base nuts with that rounded top? Awesome!

Here's a pic of my 920 sitting on top of one of my 500S. Bill

 

[CrotalusAtrox]

The swivel locks were made by Kevin Scott he does fantastic work. I am getting some Jaws next week from him. The hammered blue one didn't have the machined hammered pad but the green one did so I polished it. Thanks for the compliments