Double Vision? Nope, A Hillbilly moonshine coil and Twins (HF 60 Air Compressors).

[tlmartin84]

Well here it is:

Not quite complete but close. Had one copper TEE refuse to sweat, so I am replacing it with a compression instead. Also I have a leaky sharkbite fitting somewhere to address but I am close!

Let me introduce you to the twins:

View media item 68622
And my shine coil/condenser:

View media item 68621

 

[Beater5liter]

Are those compressors going to be hooked in series?

 

[tlmartin84]

No parallel........

One isn't pumping into the other one, they are both pumping into the same set of lines....same pressure, twice the volume.

 

[uncletater]

Very cool. Good looking set up.

 

[Greeny]

Way cool....
Are they start sequenced in some way? If not, are you concerned about the current draw if they start simultaneously?

 

[tlmartin84]

They start off a few seconds from each other. I didn't adjust them that way, just the slight variation in the switches.

I'm fortunate that I have a 200 amp service, so I don't have any issues. Even with the welder/plasma, heat, lights and these all going I'm still under........

 

[tlmartin84]

I spent a lot of time looking at compressors, and I have to say this is the best bang for the buck. Century motors, assembled in mexico, ABAC Italian made pumps. Even the switches seemed to be pretty good quality.

It is basically a Bel-Aire 216V for 300.00 less dollars.

No complaints on my end. DEFINATELY one of HF better deals.

I am going to add some Solberg silencers.......they are quieter than my old kobalt 60 gallon unit, but still pretty obnoxious.

 

[LX-Markham]

Cool looking setup.
But I gotta ask: why 2 compressors?

 

[nickleone]

Why 2 compressors?Most likely to get the same volume in a single compressor you would have to spend 3 or 4 times the money and need 3 phase power.
Nick

 

[theoldwizard1]

Had one copper TEE refuse to sweat, so I am replacing it with a compression instead.

Best insurance against a leak on a compression fitting, is to deburr and clean the copper well, with an emery cloth. Then a small amount of non-hardening pipe sealant on the leading face of the ferrule. A couple of wraps of tape on the threads for insurance.

Compression fittings will work on tempered ("hard") Type M (the most common) or annealed ("soft") tubing.

I will never understand why compression fittings never caught on big time in the US (big in EU). Maybe because no one has the ferrule removal tool!

 

[cajunfirehawk]

Cooling looking for sure, Thats almost $2k worth of compressors...what do you do to need so much air?

 

[larry_g]

I question the line size your using, 3/8"? And also the oiler next to the regulator? Are you intending to fill your piping system with oil or is this going to a dedicated machine? Many years of industrial experience tells me that an oilier belongs only on the input to a machine that requires lube. Trying to send oil down a pipe or hose is fruitless.

lg
no neat sigline

 

[79firebird]

Nice setup my buddy has one like that but has the second one set to start at a lower presure on a seperate switch works awsome for sand blasting or running the inch and a half impact

 

[tlmartin84]

Why 2 compressors?Most likely to get the same volume in a single compressor you would have to spend 3 or 4 times the money and need 3 phase power.
Nick

BINGO 30.6 CFM try finding that for under 1900.00 in a brand name compressor.........

PLUS I can run one when I am not using my blast cabinet, or pressure pot.

 

[tlmartin84]

Cooling looking for sure, Thats almost $2k worth of compressors...what do you do to need so much air?

Running my blaster....

 

[tlmartin84]

I question the line size your using, 3/8"? And also the oiler next to the regulator? Are you intending to fill your piping system with oil or is this going to a dedicated machine? Many years of industrial experience tells me that an oilier belongs only on the input to a machine that requires lube. Trying to send oil down a pipe or hose is fruitless.

lg
no neat sigline

3/8" is plenty big for my usage....remember everything is necked down to under a 1/4" right at the quick disconnect on most tools. AND I am a one man shop, two at the most. It would be EXTREMELY rare that I am running two devices.

It isn't an oiler. I have a 5 Micron filter/Regulator, and then a .001 Micron Coalescent Filter for water.

I DO NOT LIKE OILERS ON SYSTEMS. I drop a drip into my fitting on each tool prior to and after usage.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

A couple of wraps of tape on the threads for insurance.

Wiz, no disresepect, but you do realize that the threads have nothing to do with how a compression fitting seals, right?

Tommy

 

[493 scamp]

I was told the teflon tape was for lubrication of the threads so you could tighten it tighter to achieve a good seal. Any truth in that?

 

[Schurkey]

3/8" is plenty big for my usage....remember everything is necked down to under a 1/4" right at the quick disconnect on most tools.

"I" would do some pressure-drop testing. My guess is that you won't like what you find.

 

[tlmartin84]

"I" would do some pressure-drop testing. My guess is that you won't like what you find.

My longest run is only about 30' so no worries. on my end. That and a 50' hose is still way less hose than the 100' I have been using.

Not my first rodeo here..........that is the advantage of this being my second garage. I know what works for me and what doesn't. I see a lot of overkill for a hobby/homeowner shops.....

 

[sberry]

3/8 will drain it plenty fast for blasting.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

I was told the teflon tape was for lubrication of the threads so you could tighten it tighter to achieve a good seal. Any truth in that?

On pipe threads, yes. You'd be surprised how little you actually need to tighten a compression fitting to get a good seal if it's prepped and assembled properly.

Tommy

 

[Firebrick43]

I was told the teflon tape was for lubrication of the threads so you could tighten it tighter to achieve a good seal. Any truth in that?

While copper won't typically crack on the first tightening, it does work harden and over tightening will draw and crack the flare. Really cranking can crack it on the first tightening.

37 degree flares in steel/stainless in JIC fittings are also guilty. Some hillbilly over torquing can cause lots of leaks.

http://www.new-line.com/information/tightening-torque-recommendations-for-hydraulic-couplings

Notice a dash 8 brass fitting needs only 20-24 ft lbs which is about what a grade 8 bolt needs but a dash 8 fitting typically has a 3/4 or 7/8 hex allowing for much greater torque applied than should be.

 

[wgm]

no sir! compression fittings have a required method to tightening to the required spec.typically below 1/4" nut to hand tight then 3/4 turn. that is to prevent "Necking the Joint" i.e. too much tightness will compress the ferrule into the tubing and can flare the End that is inserted to cause binding in the female fitting end.
1/4" and above is Hand tight then 1 1/2 turns.
Teflon tabe or paste is good practice to prevent galling on threads. additionally, tape should not cover the first two threads to prevent the Tape from squeezing out and fouling items downstream.

 

[isb cornbinder]

Like I always say, sometimes, Nothing like a great set of twins. This is my garage door opener twins.

 

[tlmartin84]

Done:

View media item 68715
View media item 68720
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View media item 68717
View media item 68718

 

[donpauli2]

I like this idea but I'm doing one a little differently simply because I want to. No other reason. We are upgrading to a new furnace and central a/c because among other problems the "A" coil has a leak. So I'm gonna use the outside condenser assy and fan on the compressor discharge and the condenser outlet into the 80 gallon air tank.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[NC357]

I like your setup. I did something similar with 5 different smaller 120v compressors. It was simply because I had all the compressors already, I didn't do it on purpose. It's nice having multiple units because you can turn off the extra if you don't need it, and if one breaks you still have a backup.

If you're using it a lot I would recommend a fan pointed at the cooling coil and the compressor pumps. Even just a $20 box fan from Walmart would make a big difference. This way the compressor continues to cool even after it cycles off. Just a tiny bit of air movement is all you need to make a big difference in temperatures.

 

[Z2V]

Well done sir. Are those hockey pucks for ISO pads?

 

[didithepest]

How you like the compressor and what model number is that

 

[Hammer1963]

Great setup. I am about to do something similar in my shop. I currently have an 80 gallon compressor that I use and I have been given a 30 gallon high CFM unit and will be plumbing both into one central outlet. The coil is a great idea. I will be using the same plus an A/C condenser and small squirrel cage fan for cooling. It will probably not be as handsome as yours but should work well

 

[matt_i]

The only compression fitting I'll ever use is the Swagelok/Yor-Lok/Duo-lok design.

The hardware store varieties just aren't worth it in my book.

 

[manwithtools]

The only compression fitting I'll ever use is the Swagelok/Yor-Lok/Duo-lok design.

The hardware store varieties just aren't worth it in my book.

Agreed. Compression fittings should not have any type of tape or sealant used with them. Properly installed they work just fine. They are not my first choice due to expense, but they have their place.

 

[tlmartin84]

Well done sir. Are those hockey pucks for ISO pads?

Yes, they fit perfectly. One full one on the bottom, a half of one on the top.

They cut easy in my saw, and drilled really easy with a spade bit.

I CAN'T TAKE CREDIT FOR IT, I SAW SOMEONE ELSE HERE DO IT.

 

[Z2V]

LOL, hockey pucks have so many uses!! I used them for jacking pucks when putting my vette on the twin post. I keep a stack of them on the shelf.
Looks good

 

[tlmartin84]

How you like the compressor and what model number is that

Model No. 93274

So far it seems well built, and it is quality. As I said it is the same as the Bel-Aire models. It is quieter than my kobalt. I rearranged the switch and outlet to fit my setup. I had to adjust one of the gauges it was reading a little off. Apparently it was setup using the gauge because it kept blowing the pop off. After they were "tied" together I quickly realized what the problem was, adjusted the gauge and dialed the pressure back down to 165. No other issues.

I am losing air pressure somewhere though. Over a 36 hour period, my system has dropped 50psi

I have checked most of my fittings using soapy water. Can't find anything. I am going to try shutting the valves off at the tank and see if the tanks themselves lose any pressure.

Ughh, it is always something.

 

[NC357]

I always use a couple drops of Loctite 545 on every pneumatic/gas fitting I tighten, and I make gas fittings for a living. It is not a thread locker, just a sealer, that dries in the absence of oxygen. One little bottle will last forever, but you have to buy it online. ("For industrial use only")

I can't remember ever having a single joint leak with this stuff. When I test for leaks I occasionally find cracked fittings or something like that, but never just a thread leak. When I used to use the damn tape my pneumatic fittings always leaked...

Loctite 545 is also easy to clean off and reuse the fitting if needed.

 

[jp828108]

Great looking setup. I may have to try the coil and drain. I can't wait to get half that CFM.

 

[Z2V]

NC357
What kind of cure time for Loctite 545? I looked around on net and saw overnight and also 1 week. How about in your experience with it?
Thanks

 

[CNGsaves]

Nice clean setup OP. That will be a lifetime of air for sure!

Only question I have is on your electrical plugs. GJ Sparky's can chime in, but thought you were supposed to be hardwired. Also, thought you needed a shutoff rather than pulling out a plug. If it were me, I'd have a small subpanel right there.