Craftsman 103.24280 Restoration

[Zeeman]

Well, it's been a while since I bought my first C'man bandsaw. I now have a second one for parts, so I'll start the restoration. With the second saw, I got the belt guard, a better table, and guides. Here is the first saw.



I picked the best parts, and started cleaning/polishing. This is most of it.



The set screw on the lower bearing ( I guess that's what it's called) had been broken off, so I removed it and used the one from the donor saw. I was lucky and did not have to use the easy-out.







That's about it for now, but does anyone know how the belt guard mounts?



I think I must be missing some type of mounting bracket(s).

 

[ckadams00]

I love those saws! I am glad the lower bearing wasn't too screwed up - I don't think those can be replaced easily. I notice you are using vintage CM needle nose - that's karma right there!

Those parts sure polished up nice!

It looks like you are missing the bracket for the belt guard - the two screws in the middle of the guard bolt to it. I will shoot you a photo of mine.

 

[6PTsocket]

I love those saws! I am glad the lower bearing wasn't too screwed up - I don't think those can be replaced easily. I notice you are using vintage CM needle nose - that's karma right there!

Those parts sure polished up nice!

It looks like you are missing the bracket for the belt guard - the two screws in the middle of the guard bolt to it. I will shoot you a photo of mine.

I have a King Seeley Craftsman jointer on the CM pedestal. I have seen pictures of a belt guard. The jointer has a hole in the casting with a set screw. I assume that the guard must have a bar that bolts to the guard and a post mounted on the bar that slides into the hole in the jointer. Can you post a picture of your guard's mounting hardware?

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[Zeeman]

CK: Thanks. Are the brackets cast, or steel? Pictures would be great. 10-4 on the karma. I use mostly CM tools of the vintage variety. It's just what I like. The lower shaft does look like it would be trouble. I have read that you can get the shaft assembly with the bearings, but it needs to be machined. I'm going to try mine before I go to the trouble of replacing it.

6PT: I wish I had the mounting brackets, but they were missing on the second saw I got. CK is going to post pictures.

 

[ckadams00]

CK: Thanks. Are the brackets cast, or steel? Pictures would be great. 10-4 on the karma. I use mostly CM tools of the vintage variety. It's just what I like. The lower shaft does look like it would be trouble. I have read that you can get the shaft assembly with the bearings, but it needs to be machined. I'm going to try mine before I go to the trouble of replacing it.

6PT: I wish I had the mounting brackets, but they were missing on the second saw I got. CK is going to post pictures.

I'll post up pics when I get home tonight.
Again, unless someone on here knows better DON'T mess with the lower bearing unless you know for sure you have a fix in hand- it is a double-wide bearing. When I looked into this a few years ago I believe I found out that you cannot find/buy them. I tried to figure even a double stack match with Accurate Bearing with no luck. YMMV

 

[CKS1955]

...Are the brackets cast, or steel?...

They are cast iron.

Jay

 

[Guyrlocke]

Zeeman, a lot of the vintage "Hobby" machines (like your Craftsman) used a combination shaft/bearing set-up that can't be disassembled called an "integral shaft bearing". The common name for them is "water pump bearing". Google "water pump bearing" and you will find them pretty easily. The issue with these is that the shafts are typically just that, a straight shaft with no keyways, threads, etc.

The good news is that the shafts are mild steel and easily machinable! Bandsaws of this era usually only have a flat spot on the shaft that the pully set screw bears on, something that you can do yourself with a file, grinder, dremel, etc.

Accurate (or most other bearing suppliers) can get you the proper bearing but it can be a bit expensive. A life hack that i discovered while googling water pump bearing, is that they are commonly used in water pumps, who knew? When sold as an actual water pump replacement bearing, they can be had for dirt cheap! The hard part is finding one that will fit in your machine. Most places only list model numbers with no dimensions but if you scroung around for a bit you can usually find that info. The trick is to find one that has the correct shaft and outside of bearing diameter (a must, obviously) and has workable bearing and over-all shaft lengths. The bearing and over-all shaft length can vary quite a bit, just take some measurments and start searching and comparing prices. I was able to find an inexpensive John Deere WP bearing (less than $10 on E-bay) for my 3-wheel BS by looking around and finding one with a shaft length that worked. Not an exact match to the original, but a workable substitution!

 

[Zeeman]

Guy: Thanks for the details. I think I'm going to try the lower shaft/bearings and see how they work for the time being. After I test it, I'll know if I have to replace it. I will definitely look for a deal on the shaft. It does have a keyway (half moon) that I'm not able to mill out, so there will be some extra cost involved if I have to go that route.

CKS: Thanks. At the moment, I can't picture how it mounts, but I have not really studied it much. I'm too busy working on all the other parts!

 

[ckadams00]

Here's the bracket that came with my saw. It's a simple cast piece with a steel pole that bolts into the base. The bolts on your guard would bolt into the cast piece (ignore the black Sharpie marks - I did that to align the guard).

Here;s how it fits your base:

 

[Zeeman]

Great pictures CK. Thanks. That set up should not be hard to make.

 

[ckadams00]

Great pictures CK. Thanks. That set up should not be hard to make.

Since you don't it behind the cover you should be able to weld a piece of flat stock - just match the rod width and you're good to go. If you don't weld you could even get away with a piece of wood I would think.

 

[nine4gmc]

Zeeman, glad you figured it out. I have not found a belt guard yet so I had no idea how it mounted. Thanks CK for posting!

 

[6PTsocket]

Here's the bracket that came with my saw. It's a simple cast piece with a steel pole that bolts into the base. The bolts on your guard would bolt into the cast piece (ignore the black Sharpie marks - I did that to align the guard).

Here;s how it fits your base:

Thanks for the pictures. I am surprised it is as beefy as it is. This way they have enough thickness to screw in the post and not have to weld. I still need a belt guard. Old VW Beetles that have been converted to dune buggies have exposed engines and they sell fan belt guards with expanded diamond mesh or louvers for about 20 bucks. I am thinking of trying to make one fit after painting it Sears gold.

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[nine4gmc]

Is that belt on inside out CK?

 

[Zeeman]

Since you don't it behind the cover you should be able to weld a piece of flat stock - just match the rod width and you're good to go. If you don't weld you could even get away with a piece of wood I would think.

I think I will just weld together some steel. I'm off to get some rod now. Thanks.

 

[Zeeman]

6PT: It is rather beefy isn't it. I will probably go with about 1/4" thick for the piece with the slots in it.

CK: If you still have the cover off, could you give me some measurements please? Total height, and also the length of the slots and the length of the rod. Thanks.

 

[ckadams00]

Is that belt on inside out CK?

Nine - I just checked (because I thought I was an idiot) it isn't! It's a v-belt and for some reason the cuts on the outside are part of the belt. I can't remember if this is original (or original as found) but it's installed correctly.

 

[ckadams00]

6PT: It is rather beefy isn't it. I will probably go with about 1/4" thick for the piece with the slots in it.

CK: If you still have the cover off, could you give me some measurements please? Total height, and also the length of the slots and the length of the rod. Thanks.

Sure I'll get them to you as soon as I have a chance

 

[Zeeman]

Thanks CK!

 

[ckadams00]

The guard post is a 5 3/4" x 1/2" piece of round stock. The guard itself is cast but I don't think you need to make it complicated - a piece of flat stock or even wood would work. You can see the slots are cut for adjustment. Just use the bolt holes on your cover for reference. The cover bracket itself is 6 3/4 x 1 1/2.

Hope this helps!

 

[Zeeman]

Wow, that is awesome. Thank you very much for taking the time to make those pictures. That's exactly what I need. I should have one completed sometime after work tomorrow.

 

[ckadams00]

Wow, that is awesome. Thank you very much for taking the time to make those pictures. That's exactly what I need. I should have one completed sometime after work tomorrow.

No problem. Let me know if you need another photo.

 

[Zeeman]

I got some stuff done today on the bs. After reading many posts here and over at VWWM, I decided to go with the Rust-Oleum Champagne Mist. I like it, and think it's a close match.

Here's the finished bracket for the belt cover.

 

[Zeeman]

This part was covered in thick green paint, so I used chemical stripper after a good degreasing. Then, I wire wheeled it.





The post had the same ugly paint. I used 100, then 150 grit on a 1/2 sheet sander.

 

[PugetDude]

Nice job on the replacement bracket.

Can't wait to see the finished product!

 

[Zeeman]

Thanks PD. I'm not much of a welder, but I'm learning.

 

[ckadams00]

Looks good!

 

[CKS1955]

What treatment do you plan for inside the pedestal tube/pipe ?

Jay

 

[Zeeman]

Great question. I have been pondering that. I was thinking about sealing the end and pouring it full of vinegar first. It's cheap. If that does not work, probably some liquid rust remover. Do you have any ideas?

 

[CKS1955]

I wish I had the answer, I have a load of the pedestal stands in the que.

I was thinking electrolysis, using rebar as the anode that you would run through the center of the pipe. The next question is how to finish the interior of the pipe, my thought was similar to your suggestion with the vinegar. Seal one end of the pipe, pour the paint in and slosh it around.

Jay

 

[Zeeman]

The more I think about it, the less important de-rusting the inside seems. The inside of mine is a little rusty, but it's probably 50+ years old. I really doubt it will rust through in another 100 years. The paint sloshing would definitely work, I just don't know how important it is. I don't think they were ever painted from the factory. Hmmmm. Anyone have any thoughts on the subject?

 

[nine4gmc]

I left the inside of every drill press and pole stand alone. They will outlive me so I'm not worried about the inside.

 

[ckadams00]

I left the inside of every drill press and pole stand alone. They will outlive me so I'm not worried about the inside.

Even on DP stands that are very rusty on the bottom and outside of the posts I've never seen one inside that looked all that bad. The surface rust is certainly not going to be seen or be structural any time in the near future . . . more important to concentrate on the outside post/inside stand for areas that may make adjustment or removal difficult.

I DO NOT recommend painting the parts that can't be seen . . .unless you get some sick pleasure out of making clean up more difficult for the next owner!

 

[Zeeman]

I agree CK and Nine. I'm just going to let it be on the inside. I'm waiting on primer to dry so I can paint the pole and base. Then all that's left will be the covers and the belt cover.

 

[6PTsocket]

The more I think about it, the less important de-rusting the inside seems. The inside of mine is a little rusty, but it's probably 50+ years old. I really doubt it will rust through in another 100 years. The paint sloshing would definitely work, I just don't know how important it is. I don't think they were ever painted from the factory. Hmmmm. Anyone have any thoughts on the subject?

I agree it is a waste of time but there are spray products from Eastwood and others for arresting rust inside car and truck frames and door panels. . The Eastwood comes with a 24" nozzle. The products contain rust conversion coatings and waxy sealing films. They neutralize what is there and seal against any more rust. If I were inclined to do anything, that is the way I would go.

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[Zeeman]

I'm sure that is some good stuff, I just can't justify it, especially since it's probably more expensive than paint. I will keep it in mind for other projects.

 

[Zeeman]

I got the cast iron base painted, but it was a pain in the ****. I do not like the way this new fangled Rustoleum paint sprays. It sends out blobs, then clogs. I am very careful to shake the can more than required at first, then during use. I am going to have to take one can back for sure. It just stops spraying for no apparent reason. Anyway, mini-rant over. Here's the progress.



Did some body work to the belt cover. About ready for putty, primer and paint.

 

[bulwnkle]

What HP motor did these saws come with , or work best with? I picked one up with no base or motor.

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[Zeeman]

Bull, not sure if they were all the same. Probably not since you could buy the saw and other parts including the motor separately. Mine is a 1/2 hp I believe. I'd have to dig it out of the mess in my garage. I'm trying to organize at the moment.

 

[Zeeman]

I made some progress in the last few days, but I'm trying to organize my garage at the same time, and I believe the garage is winning.






The sides are ready to paint after degreasing. I sanded all the flaking paint, and smoothed and filled most of the bad gouges.




I mentioned the accident I had using a strong degreaser on the nameplate. It took almost all of the paint off. Luckily I had a spare. I polished the small 'brads'. I'm not sure what their correct name is.