The VISES of Garage Journal

[Private Lugnutz]

Thanks, Outlaw. Shiftless just recommended the same thing in the repair thread. And thanks for the photos, K. Very helpful. I see how it's supposed to work now. If this knob is on the end of a free taper pin, the pin is definitely stuck in the jaw, not the vise, because the knob and the swivel jaw wiggle as one piece, and I could've sworn it was cast that way. I sprayed some oil around the knob to see what would happen, like a cheap vacuum test on a manifold, and even got a magnifying glass out and I couldn't see any separation at the base of the knob between the knob and the jaw. So it must be stuck right good.

 

[Outlawmws]

Lug, This is sort of a special case, as the vise is so small, and you don't want to dismount it.

I'm thinking that to get the support Dr Scott mentioned, I would get a steel bar that clears the nut.

Drill and tap that bar for a set screw that can go into the hold and contact the pin bottom.

Get a deep socket that clears the pin head, get a second steel bar and two clamps (here is where a second pair of hands will be needed...)

Clamp the bars as close to the body of the vise as possible (inside of possible) and apply pressure.

Now you have full support and you should not be risking breaking the small casting. a bit of heat on the vise jaw near the socket may help, and rapping the top bar a bit may pop the jammed tapered pin.

 

[cheechi]

I picked up a few days ago a D44 Columbian and 443 Rock Island. Spent this afternoon with the wire wheel on the D44, going to prime it tomorrow if I get time.

So as I was removing the jaws one of the screws was totally mangled. Made me think this Columbian, used my block grinder, hand impact driver, dead blow hammer, all things I wouldn't have and wouldn't even know about (or know the value of them) if not for this site. Want to thank you guys.

How do you guys paint the raised letters? roller?

Jaws on the Rock Island aren't removable and aren't in that great a condition. I don't have a lot of machining tools is there a simple and easy way to cut new grooves? I think on the Columbian I can faintly see where they used to be, but those are also removable so I could possibly replace them anyway.

 

[cheechi]

and pics of the Rock Island.

also Tool Scrounge what Littlestown is that in your photo a 900?

 

[va.grouseman]

Previously posted by G-ManBart.

Mine doesn't have any chips or cracks...and it's looking for a new home where it will get used.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


G-Man, I should have said "This is my third Monarch Coach-Maker".---And that ''I don't think there are any Monarch Coach Makers out there without damage''.---But this latest one is the better of the three.---First Monarch has a chunk popped off the back of the Static, the second has a chunk out of the swivel base.---All are fixable but I want one that don't need fixing.---But it has to be a Monarch.---I've loved that Lions head since the first one I saw.---They're not much for actual use (these Coach makers) because they are really built light.---Yours is a much heavier duty vise than a Monarch, but I think that Prentiss thought that the Lions head would sell it anyway.---And it probably did.

All three of my Monarchs are swivel base and all have the #230 on them.

 

[Outlawmws]

Cheechi, Paint pens work pretty good...

 

[RG Rude]

Cheechi, Paint pens work pretty good...

I never thought of using a paint pen for metal.

 

[cheechi]

my lovely wife isn't opposed to doing them for me. she's an artist.

I just wasn't sure if that's what was typical to be done, or if I was missing something.

 

[G-ManBart]

G-Man, I should have said "This is my third Monarch Coach-Maker".---And that ''I don't think there are any Monarch Coach Makers out there without damage''.---But this latest one is the better of the three.---First Monarch has a chunk popped off the back of the Static, the second has a chunk out of the swivel base.---All are fixable but I want one that don't need fixing.---But it has to be a Monarch.---I've loved that Lions head since the first one I saw.---They're not much for actual use (these Coach makers) because they are really built light.---Yours is a much heavier duty vise than a Monarch, but I think that Prentiss thought that the Lions head would sell it anyway.---And it probably did.

All three of my Monarchs are swivel base and all have the #230 on them.

I don't think my Prentiss 59 is "much heavier duty" at all. It only weighs 47lbs...so lighter than your 230 at 50 lbs. Even factoring in the swivel base on the 230 the two are pretty similar in build.

They were both made by Prentiss, have the same jaw width and profile, long slide, etc, etc. I'll bet putting them next to one another and measuring things would show striking similarities.

 

[drivesitfar]

VA: my Simplex Coachmaker isn't any little thing and it's pretty stout for a 4 or maybe it's a 4.5 inch vise.

i also like the lion on the Monarch's static and even for a Prentiss ECONOMY vise they were made pretty well especially since it was 1920's technology.

 

[Private Lugnutz]

Deleted. Answered my own question.

 

[va.grouseman]

Drive and G-Man, I like Prentisses and have several of different sizes and models, but it appears to me that the Prentisses cracked and chipped more readily than other brands.---Look at all the cracked slides that you see on the Prentiss vise, and cracked swivel bases.---I think it was the brittle cast that they were using.---I know that when you get into the monster size vises that the sheer mass of them circumvents a lot of crack and breakage, but anything with thin cast was vulnerable.---But like I said, I still like'm and I'll still buy them.

 

[gman007]

Hi all
Does anyone know what date range were the Chas Parker 974s manufactured?

A few days back I posted a question regarding the difference between CP 974 with patent 1930 vs what appears to be a bit newer CP 974 (without the patent marking) but did not get any response form anyone. So I went ahead and on Thursday I bid and won a CP 974 (without the patent marking) at a LOCAL (not ebay) online auction with a $63 bid.

I had to drive for over 1 hr to picked it up though, but is absolutely worth it. The vise is in an amazingly good shape. There are no missing parts, bolts can be turned by bare hand, the vise is almost completely rust free with very minor nicks/cuts and bruises.

It might take some time but this one is heading for "Royal" restoration,
1- Sand blast/cleanup, bake at a paint furnace to get ride of residues
2- Complete Nickel plating of every single piece through out
3- ESD powder coatings
4- Baking at a paint line furnace

I appreciate a response to my enquiry.
007

 

[drivesitfar]

Lug: looks like we helped enough.

VA: i agree of all the pre WWII vise makers that Prentiss might have been the Economy models so to speak, but like you say they look good and are still good vises.

007: i'll just say i don't have much 411 on Parker vises cause it's one brand i don't drive far to buy, but like you say they are great old vises. maybe since you are not getting a response to your questions this is something you can tell us since you now own both of them. if you only paid $63 plus some gas and a little time for your 974 you did very well. looks like your vice for vises is growing.

 

[Outlawmws]

Deleted. Answered my own question.

Now we want to know what the question AND the answer was!

 

[G-ManBart]

Hi all
Does anyone know what date range were the Chas Parker 974s manufactured?

A few days back I posted a question regarding the difference between CP 974 with patent 1930 vs what appears to be a bit newer CP 974 (without the patent marking) but did not get any response form anyone. So I went ahead and on Thursday I bid and won a CP 974 (without the patent marking) at a LOCAL (not ebay) online auction with a $63 bid.

I had to drive for over 1 hr to picked it up though, but is absolutely worth it. The vise is in an amazingly good shape. There are no missing parts, bolts can be turned by bare hand, the vise is almost completely rust free with very minor nicks/cuts and bruises.

It might take some time but this one is heading for "Royal" restoration,
1- Sand blast/cleanup, bake at a paint furnace to get ride of residues
2- Complete Nickel plating of every single piece through out
3- ESD powder coatings
4- Baking at a paint line furnace

I appreciate a response to my enquiry.
007

The 1930 patent would have expired in 1950, so there would be no reason to have the vises marked with it after that time. Parker sold the vise operation to Union Manufacturing around 1957. That tells me the best guess would be 1950 to 1957 for your 974. The last two 975s I had didn't have the 1930 patent, and look otherwise identical to those with the 1930 patent markings.

It's your vise, so your call, but I don't think sand blasting or powder coating are any sort of "royal" treatment for a vise. Sand blasting dulls the lettering and usually leaves an odd looking texture. Powder coating looks nice until you use the vise and the coating starts to chip and flake off, with no way to fix it save stripping the vise completely and redoing it. This comes up regularly here, and I can't think of anybody who's happy, long-term, after powder coating a vise that gets used. If it's just going to sit on the shelf...that's different.

A while back a guy sent me a picture of a Wilton 500S that he had professionally powder coated and said he had no idea it was going to look so awful so quickly, and that it was just wasted money.

 

[eddieK]

Hey Lug's, I am thumbs up with what Outlaw said, I agree that the pin could be rusted into the static support and loos in the swivel jaw portion. Here are some pictures of what Outlaw mentioned, yours will have to be lot smaller hardware. Be sure to put a plate above the dove tail casting so you are not pushing on a fragile casting.

G-Man, nice job on those SS pipe jaw pins, did you forge the ends? Always curious on repairs others do.

I am in the middle of this same issue with a frozen 19 1/2 Prentiss...Thanx for the advise. I will attempt this later today.

It is cooking right now in my first electrolysis bath. I also have a stuck swivel pin issue

 

[KMScott]

Eddie, I remember back when I was racing Stock Cars and was always pulling tie rods ends off and the quickest way was a shock treatment by hitting the side of the female portion of the 7 degree tapered knuckle joints and they just fell off. So that being said you can not do the same with a vise since vises are so soft and not made from nodular Iron which I believe the drag linkage was made from and could handle the hammer hits. Shocking the pin, heating causing it to grow that will break the rust seal is the best way I found to remove tapered pins. I make replacement pins out of 300 series SS which is very soft steel and really not a good choice except for the corrosion resistance but should not deform like a aluminum pin would. Good luck.

 

[Colin Len]

Hoping for a little insight here as I'm new to vise restoration. I have an old Wilton bullet that I was about to get started repainting and upon beginning disassembly I noticed the swivel base is broken. I assume that it'll be OK for me to simply use my MIG welder to weld the broken piece back in place and then grind down the welds as best I can so it operates smoothly. But I just wanted to check to be sure there wasn't something crucial I'm missing before I get started.

Here are some pics:

 

[gman007]

The 1930 patent would have expired in 1950, so there would be no reason to have the vises marked with it after that time. Parker sold the vise operation to Union Manufacturing around 1957. That tells me the best guess would be 1950 to 1957 for your 974. The last two 975s I had didn't have the 1930 patent, and look otherwise identical to those with the 1930 patent markings.

It's your vise, so your call, but I don't think sand blasting or powder coating are any sort of "royal" treatment for a vise. Sand blasting dulls the lettering and usually leaves an odd looking texture. Powder coating looks nice until you use the vise and the coating starts to chip and flake off, with no way to fix it save stripping the vise completely and redoing it. This comes up regularly here, and I can't think of anybody who's happy, long-term, after powder coating a vise that gets used. If it's just going to sit on the shelf...that's different.

A while back a guy sent me a picture of a Wilton 500S that he had professionally powder coated and said he had no idea it was going to look so awful so quickly, and that it was just wasted money.

G-Man
Thank you very much for the info and fast response and also about concern regarding sand blasting and powder coating which is very valid and well put.

But in fairness to the master craftsmen that sometimes help me in these adventures (otherwise I do my own amateur restorations), I must add that like anything else quality of the work will depend both on the skill of the so called "pro" person as well as the technique and facility.

It suffices to say that where this "royal" restorations are done is not an average or even high end "pro" shop. Without going into details these guys work on exceptionally high end products that go through their paint line and are absolute craftsmen at their trade. And occasionally for fun and a change can take on interesting projects like restoring old MADE IN USA tools. And do so with pride in restoring the work of their forefathers.

I have included a sample of such work (I specifically picked photos of lettering)

Thanks again

Kindest regard
007

 

[gman007]

G-Man
Thank you very much for the info and fast response and also about concern regarding sand blasting and powder coating which is very valid and well put.

But in fairness to the master craftsmen that sometimes help me in these adventures (otherwise I do my own amateur restorations), I must add that like anything else quality of the work will depend both on the skill of the so called "pro" person as well as the technique and facility.

It suffices to say that where this "royal" restorations are done is not an average or even high end "pro" shop. Without going into details these guys work on exceptionally high end products that go through their paint line and are absolute craftsmen at their trade. And occasionally for fun and a change can take on interesting projects like restoring old MADE IN USA tools. And do so with pride in restoring the work of their forefathers.

I have included a sample of such work (I specifically picked photos of lettering)

Thanks again

Kindest regard
007

PS
The entire vise is first completely nickel plated to not only inhibit rust but more so for better adhesion of ESD powder coating. Such technique is only done in certain high end industrial manufacturing and is not at all common.

By the why the none powder coated parts (such the screw, arms, insert jaws, swivel arms, draw bar etc) are shinny because of nickel plating process.

As another positive side effect, the Nickel plating in the case of the vise helps reduce friction between draw bar of dynamic jaw and static jaw resulting in smooth operation.

 

[drivesitfar]

Colin: the swivel bases on Wilton seemed to be their weak points in their design and yours is not the first one i've seen broken. you didn't mention which Wilton vise you own so how about posting more information and a few pictures of your vise?

1) first option is to make a stand or mount your Wilton without a swivel base and you'll still most likely have a vise that is very usable.

2) find a broken wilton with a good swivel replacement or if you are a machinist make one

3) buy a new part that you need replacing cause unfortunately it looks like a fatal break

probably a few other options, but thought i'd give you a start.

good luck and welcome to the vise thread where most of us have a vice for vises

GMan: OMG that powder coated Wilton looks terrible. i stopped by a client's place yesterday that i hadn't seen for a while and he had that exact vise only bare with BLO on it and i just stared at it for a few minutes cause it did look great especially sitting on a nice steel bench. i looked at it more than i did his Corvette

 

[jakemac]

Colin - don't forget to pre-heat the parts in an oven before you start welding.

 

[thursday]

It's your vise, so your call, but I don't think sand blasting or powder coating are any sort of "royal" treatment for a vise. Sand blasting dulls the lettering and usually leaves an odd looking texture. Powder coating looks nice until you use the vise and the coating starts to chip and flake off, with no way to fix it save stripping the vise completely and redoing it. This comes up regularly here, and I can't think of anybody who's happy, long-term, after powder coating a vise that gets used. If it's just going to sit on the shelf...that's different.

A while back a guy sent me a picture of a Wilton 500S that he had professionally powder coated and said he had no idea it was going to look so awful so quickly, and that it was just wasted money.

Sorry, not true. Powder coating is far tougher than wet paint. The problem with powder coating something like a vise is the patience associated with letting a one hundred pound cast iron vise come up to the specified temperature and then properly maintaining that temperature. Over-curing or under-curing powder coat is cancer. Also there's a variety of powder formulas that are suited for different applications, simply choosing a color while ignoring the type of powder will also lead to problems. I powder coat every one of my Vises except for special colors. So let me add my anecdote that the only vises I have paint chipping off are from wet paint.

As for sand blasting there isn't a better mechanical means to properly prep for paint. I wouldn't even consider painting something either with wet paint or powder without first blasting. The lettering is a non issue with proper media and technique.

PS
The entire vise is first completely nickel plated to not only inhibit rust but more so for better adhesion of ESD powder coating. Such technique is only done in certain high end industrial manufacturing and is not at all common.

By the why the none powder coated parts (such the screw, arms, insert jaws, swivel arms, draw bar etc) are shinny because of nickel plating process.

As another positive side effect, the Nickel plating in the case of the vise helps reduce friction between draw bar of dynamic jaw and static jaw resulting in smooth operation.

I'd skip on the nickel plating I think it looks awful on old parts.

 

[BrettJ74]

I have noticed that I do not care for sandblasted parts that are not painted even after wire brushing. If I sandblast a part I generally just clean the slide and others with a wirebrush then tape off to preserve the darker look of wirebrushed rusty iron.
On a side note a couple little guys I picked up this Weekend, a 5204 Craftsman woodworking vise, a Rock Island 571 missing swivel base, a complete Wilton Shop King. And a English made Eclipse that I cleaned up for a guy at work.


Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

[G-ManBart]

PS
The entire vise is first completely nickel plated to not only inhibit rust but more so for better adhesion of ESD powder coating. Such technique is only done in certain high end industrial manufacturing and is not at all common.

By the why the none powder coated parts (such the screw, arms, insert jaws, swivel arms, draw bar etc) are shinny because of nickel plating process.

As another positive side effect, the Nickel plating in the case of the vise helps reduce friction between draw bar of dynamic jaw and static jaw resulting in smooth operation.

How long have you been using those vises that have been powder coated to know the durability after some use?

 

[G-ManBart]

Sorry, not true. Powder coating is far tougher than wet paint. The problem with powder coating something like a vise is the patience associated with letting a one hundred pound cast iron vise come up to the specified temperature and then properly maintaining that temperature. Over-curing or under-curing powder coat is cancer. Also there's a variety of powder formulas that are suited for different applications, simply choosing a color while ignoring the type of powder will also lead to problems. I powder coat every one of my Vises except for special colors. So let me add my anecdote that the only vises I have paint chipping off are from wet paint.

As for sand blasting there isn't a better mechanical means to properly prep for paint. I wouldn't even consider painting something either with wet paint or powder without first blasting. The lettering is a non issue with proper media and technique.

Powder coating is tougher that paint, but that has nothing to do with it. Take the best, most perfect powder coating on a vise and miss one time with a hammer, chisel, blade....whatever. The powder coating is likely to chip and there's really no way to fix it. With paint all it takes is a few minutes of prep, a quick spray and you don't even know it happened.

I guess if someone doesn't use their vises, or never makes a mistake it won't matter.

You took my comment about blasting out of context. I said "sand blasting" and you changed to "media blasting"....not the same thing. Sand blasting will soften lettering and often leave a texture.

I think the combination of sand blasting and then putting a thick layer of powder coat over everything looks terrible...softened letters then a thick coat just makes it all look like a blurry image to me, but that's just an opinion.

 

[thursday]

Powder coating is tougher that paint, but that has nothing to do with it. Take the best, most perfect powder coating on a vise and miss one time with a hammer, chisel, blade....whatever. The powder coating is likely to chip and there's really no way to fix it. With paint all it takes is a few minutes of prep, a quick spray and you don't even know it happened.

Yes that has everything to do with it. As that's exactly what toughness is describing; the ability to withstand those sorts of impacts. The powder coating is less likely to chip compared to traditional paint because it is tougher. Not to mention it's superior resistance to chemicals. And yes touch ups can be done on powder coat too.

You took my comment about blasting out of context. I said "sand blasting" and you changed to "media blasting"....not the same thing. Sand blasting will soften lettering and often leave a texture.

Okay then that means you're trying to build a straw man argument about the improper way to do something and I'm pointing out the correct way to do it. Sand blasting is the colloquial term for all things blasting.

I think the combination of sandblasting and then putting a thick layer of powder coat over everything looks terrible...softened letters then a thick coat just makes it all look like a blurry image to me, but that's just an opinion.

A continuation of the strawman, who said anything about a thicklayer of powder coat? Yes powder tends to be thicker than wet by 1 or 2 mils, but it does not have to be applied thick in the degrading sense you're portraying it as.

I can just as easily describe all wet paint jobs as being uneven, thin, thick, full of sags, runs, overspray etc....

The truth is no coating is bulletproof, but powder is a step towards it.

 

[Colin Len]

Colin: the swivel bases on Wilton seemed to be their weak points in their design and yours is not the first one i've seen broken. you didn't mention which Wilton vise you own so how about posting more information and a few pictures of your vise?

1) first option is to make a stand or mount your Wilton without a swivel base and you'll still most likely have a vise that is very usable.

2) find a broken wilton with a good swivel replacement or if you are a machinist make one

3) buy a new part that you need replacing cause unfortunately it looks like a fatal break

probably a few other options, but thought i'd give you a start.

good luck and welcome to the vise thread where most of us have a vice for vises

Thanks for the input drivesitfar. So you feel it can't be repaired? I'm interested as to why you feel that way (not saying you're wrong, just want learn something if I can). To the untrained eye (me) this portion of the vise looked weak. Sorta like how "pot" metal castings look. It's a 1965 8300 bullet which I found in the garage of the house I purchased 3yrs ago so I don't know any of the history on it. Other than this piece it looks to be in great shape.

Colin - don't forget to pre-heat the parts in an oven before you start welding.

I'd never heard of that before. Is that just so the metal doesn't go thru any kind of shock by going from room temp to super hot (welding temp) very quickly? So you seem to believe that this can be welded to repair it contrary to drivesitfar's advice?

 

[Locker537]

Picked up this little Reed utility vise at a garage sale with a whole bunch of other stuff. Paid ~$15 for it. It's going on the toolbox.

 

[Bellaireroad]

PS

The entire vise is first completely nickel plated to not only inhibit rust but more so for better adhesion of ESD powder coating. Such technique is only done in certain high end industrial manufacturing and is not at all common.



By the why the none powder coated parts (such the screw, arms, insert jaws, swivel arms, draw bar etc) are shinny because of nickel plating process.



As another positive side effect, the Nickel plating in the case of the vise helps reduce friction between draw bar of dynamic jaw and static jaw resulting in smooth operation.

A question ... how do they evenly nickel plate the handle... seems like it would be a problem since it passes a through a hole in the screw head


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[drivesitfar]

Colin: what i should have said is that is a very hard repair instead of fatal, but it depends on your skills and how much time and money you want to spend on it. you have a Wilton bullet vise with 3 inch wide jaws so their high end vise which might give you more reason to find a replacement, buy a new one or spend a lot of time and skill fixing your broken cast. since you have $200 approx. value Wilton instead of one of their $50 ones it might be worth spending more time on a fix.

i suppose you can braze it, but you not only have to have the skills cast iron needs to be heated up before brazing and also SLOWLY COOLED DOWN after it to prevent cracking. some guys use a BBQ, SHOP OVEN, for heating and cooling and others use torches to heat and dunk in sand to cool SLOWLY.

you might want to check out the vise repair 101 thread and read all the posts on Brazing cause i'm certainly not the EXPERT when it comes to that skill. also posting up your vise and pictures might help you get other opinions.

i'd personally make a stand if i needed 360 degree access for that vise or if i only needed it to hold things in one position just mount it with the two holes like a lot of Wiltons that are sold without swivel bases are.

good luck

Locker: i'm guessing you meant Reed instead of Red. yes? what is the weight approx. and width of jaws and if you have time any more pictures? nice find

 

[G-ManBart]

Yes that has everything to do with it. As that's exactly what toughness is describing; the ability to withstand those sorts of impacts. The powder coating is less likely to chip compared to traditional paint because it is tougher. Not to mention it's superior resistance to chemicals. And yes touch ups can be done on powder coat too.

Powder coat can be tougher than paint and it's still going to chip and get scratched on a vise. Sure, it will take more to get to that point, but it's still going to get damaged at some point.

For the person who has to take their vise to a powder coat shop in the first place, they aren't going to be able to do a touch up. Dismounting the vise and dragging it to the shop, and paying even more to get it fixed after paying for the initial coat, seems silly when it's an absolute certainty the coating will get damaged.

Okay then that means you're trying to build a straw man argument about the improper way to do something and I'm pointing out the correct way to do it. Sand blasting is the colloquial term for all things blasting.

I was doing nothing of the sort. If I'm talking about bead blasting, or soda blasting, or any other kind of blasting, I'll say bead blasting, or soda blasting, etc. I won't say sand blasting when I'm talking about some other form of media blasting.

A continuation of the strawman, who said anything about a thicklayer of powder coat? Yes powder tends to be thicker than wet by 1 or 2 mils, but it does not have to be applied thick in the degrading sense you're portraying it as.

I can just as easily describe all wet paint jobs as being uneven, thin, thick, full of sags, runs, overspray etc....

The truth is no coating is bulletproof, but powder is a step towards it.

I haven't seen a vise posted here that was powder coated that didn't look like it was carved out of wax and then shot with clear coat. I'm sure some folks like that look, and if that's what they want, that's what they should get.

Some folks don't like vises that have any kind of color or paint on them, and I'm sure they dislike the work I do, but as they say "to each his own" right?

I'm sure all of us would find it very interesting to see examples of your work to show us how it looks when it's done the right way. If you've got a vise you've put to use for a period of time after being coated, that would be even more interesting.

 

[G-ManBart]

Hoping for a little insight here as I'm new to vise restoration. I have an old Wilton bullet that I was about to get started repainting and upon beginning disassembly I noticed the swivel base is broken. I assume that it'll be OK for me to simply use my MIG welder to weld the broken piece back in place and then grind down the welds as best I can so it operates smoothly. But I just wanted to check to be sure there wasn't something crucial I'm missing before I get started.

Hopefully Carla or KMScott will see this and chime in....maybe post it over to the vise repair thread?

I've seen people try to use a MIG on castings like this, but I wasn't impressed with the results. It might have been the operator, but I think somewhat it would be the wire isn't really that compatible with ductile iron.

I've had really good results lately TIG welding Wilton base parts using Inconel rod based upon a suggestion by KMScott (he was kind enough to send me some filler rod when I ordered some parts). It's nickel-based, and that's probably why it works so well with cast parts.

The problem with the break on yours is that it's the pad that takes virtually all of the load when you tighten the swivel lock, so it's got to be pretty strong.

I wonder if you could weld it as best as possible the way it is, and then weld a support across the crack on either side of the bolt hole? Something like a 1/4" wide strip that you could put a bead all the way around would help strengthen things. It wouldn't be pretty, but it would be hidden in use.

 

[Colin Len]

Colin: what i should have said is that is a very hard repair instead of fatal, but it depends on your skills and how much time and money you want to spend on it. you have a Wilton bullet vise with 3 inch wide jaws so their high end vise which might give you more reason to find a replacement, buy a new one or spend a lot of time and skill fixing your broken cast. since you have $200 approx. value Wilton instead of one of their $50 ones it might be worth spending more time on a fix.

i suppose you can braze it, but you not only have to have the skills cast iron needs to be heated up before brazing and also SLOWLY COOLED DOWN after it to prevent cracking. some guys use a BBQ, SHOP OVEN, for heating and cooling and others use torches to heat and dunk in sand to cool SLOWLY.

you might want to check out the vise repair 101 thread and read all the posts on Brazing cause i'm certainly not the EXPERT when it comes to that skill. also posting up your vise and pictures might help you get other opinions.

i'd personally make a stand if i needed 360 degree access for that vise or if i only needed it to hold things in one position just mount it with the two holes like a lot of Wiltons that are sold without swivel bases are.

good luck

Thanks for the clarification. Hmm, now I'm not sure what I should do. If this can't be welded with my MIG then it's pretty much not worth my time to try and fix (I don't think). Perhaps this means I should just put the vise on ebay and see what I can get for it and then shop for a Wilton C vise seeing as I'd really like to have some pipe jaws. A non swivel just isn't practical for me and neither is a stand since I have such a small shop - I need one vise which is as versatile as possible and can mount to my workbench.

 

[drivesitfar]

Colin: if you maybe put up a post in the Wanted section and or Classifieds here that you might want to trade for a Wilton C0, C1, C2 and you'd pay cash to make up the difference of the value maybe some member might need a small Wilton. not saying it's worth $200 without a swivel, but it's still a good vise without one and it's worth something as is.

if you only have room for one vise i kind doubt a 3 inch bullet would be my ONLY VISE.

good luck

 

[Outlawmws]

Hoping for a little insight here as I'm new to vise restoration. I have an old Wilton bullet that I was about to get started repainting and upon beginning disassembly I noticed the swivel base is broken. I assume that it'll be OK for me to simply use my MIG welder to weld the broken piece back in place and then grind down the welds as best I can so it operates smoothly. But I just wanted to check to be sure there wasn't something crucial I'm missing before I get started.

Colin. Mig isn't the best for something with that much stress on it. not with ordinary wire anyway....

I would attack that one like this:

• Clamp the broken bit in place (looks to be a clean break)
• Tap drill it for the largest countersunk screw to think you can get away with on each side.
• After the tap drilling, tap the main piece.
• Clearance drill the small part, then countersink it so the head is less than flush.
• Now you can secure the bit for the next operations, but first, grind the "Vee" you need - fairly deep. Assemble it with good quality screws.
• I would braise, if you have access the inconel is a better choice, or you could get some Nirod for arc welding and use that with TIG....
• PREHEAT the assembly.
• Weld/Braise...
• Cool slowly. The old school trick is bury it in hot sand (bucket of dry sand on a Coleman stove works...) You can also leave it in an oven and slowly reduce the heat before turning it off and letting it finish cooling with the door closed.
• After cooling, re-tighten the screws, as I'd bet they got loose...

 

[deerhunter496]

Ok, I know this is a long shot, but I'm looking for a swivel base with center screw and locks for a Columbian Hardware 206. I also have a 205 that could use the same. Thanks

 

[Outlawmws]

Wrong thread. You want the vise parts swap thread...

 

[deerhunter496]

ok, thx