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The VISES of Garage Journal

AngryBeaver

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Location
Lake Milton Ohio
BLO will preserve the paint and makes it look a bit more presentable. In time, the fresh looking steel will darken with the BLO treatment. Yes, the dynamic is a bit out of alignment. Somebody in the past evidently asked more of this homeowner grade vise than it was ready to deliver.
But with a good cleaning and a few dabs of Mobil One synthetic grease, it now runs in and out smoothly and easily with one finger power.

What is BLO.
 
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Joefriday

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May 21, 2017
Messages
166
Location
Virginia
Smokes..

Thank you. I try to keep things as simple as possible. I'm not particularly concerned with painting under the metal plate and I don't want to risk the chance of damaging the plate by removing it so I simply stick a piece of tape over it and trim around the edges with a razor blade.

Like I've said before, I don't have the skills or patience that some of the artists on here have; I just try to clean them up and leave a bit of original "character" on them.

Best,
Rob

PS. The paint on this one is Rust-O "charcoal gray" although it has more of a blue look in the pictures.
 

FMC1959

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Feb 9, 2014
Messages
2,319
Location
Montreal, Canada / Upstate NY
So this thing just came up for sale near where I am. I'll probably never see one again up here, looks to be in pretty good shape. Guy wants $245 Canadian dollars, what do you guys think? If I had the money to blow on another vise I don't need I'd already have bought it but times is tough. Maybe you all can convince me.
$_27.JPG

$_27.JPG


Also found this ginormous Parker No 60x. Jaws look kinda funny and it looks like that handle is not original. $350 and a ten hour round trip for me. I think I'll have to pass.
$_27.JPG

The 956 looks to be in beautiful condition. I think the price is OK, especially if it is a keeper. A 6" Parker in that nice condition, you won't see many. Of course you could offer less, he might be very negociable.

The 60x has been for sale, maybe 5-6 months. It does not look in good shape, needs some serious work on the jaws.

Forget the 60x and go for the 956, you will be very happy, especially when you see it in person (if you haven't seen a 6" in person)

I'm wondering why the Parker oval slide vises that gman007 and dodge610 own don't have the slide support shown in the 1926 ad that AngryBeaver posted, while mine does. Could theirs be later? Or earlier?

c99ea310035224f3232f0fa61d16125b.jpg

I had 2 guesses, the first, like Outlaw stated, it may have broken off. My second thought was that these being among the first vises made, the jaw support could have been added on later models as an improvement.

Just curious if any one has any information on Phoenix watch makers vises. I've seen more then a few on eBay but not too many sales ads or old literature. It seems like 1in or so is the most common model. Here is a picture of a 1in jaw for reference not my picture. 3eabc2bef4ebb49fc2c82edc2683f869.jpg

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I don't know much but believe that had some link to Colton vises. IIRC, 454Ragtop has a nice collection of Coltons, he may be able to help you on some Phoenix info.
 

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joe.striper

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agawam, ma
2.25" Parker. Original paint on the body.. I had a NOS Parker base I painted and distressed to match the original finish. I need to make the swivel lock handle for the opposite side.

Proof that I dont over restore everything.:thumbup:
 

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Joefriday

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Virginia
Good afternoon gents.

I'm not up on Wilton prices. Is this worth $50? I know it's pretty beat. That's a 34oz bottle for size reference.

Best,
Rob


 

gman007

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West Michigan
2.25" Parker. Original paint on the body.. I had a NOS Parker base I painted and distressed to match the original finish. I need to make the swivel lock handle for the opposite side.

Proof that I dont over restore everything.:thumbup:
Joe
That is a nice little vise and great job on matching the base, can't even tell it did not come with the vise.
007
 

Joefriday

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Virginia
2.25" Parker. Original paint on the body.. I had a NOS Parker base I painted and distressed to match the original finish. I need to make the swivel lock handle for the opposite side.

Proof that I dont over restore everything.:thumbup:

That looks great.. I like the smaller vises. A lot easier t work on too.

Best,
Rob
 

jakemac

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May 21, 2013
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Location
New England
Good afternoon gents.

I'm not up on Wilton prices. Is this worth $50? I know it's pretty beat. That's a 34oz bottle for size reference.

Best,
Rob


If you think you can get the jaw inserts off to replace them , yes.
Otherwise, I'd scrap it.

You're looking at A LOT of work just to get that one to be a user again. Not to mention the cost of new jaws.
 

meatsis

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Apr 1, 2010
Messages
655
Location
Hudson Valley NY
good afternoon gents.

I'm not up on wilton prices. Is this worth $50? I know it's pretty beat. That's a 34oz bottle for size reference.

Best,
rob





boat anchor!

If it was a rare or unique vise, id say go for it. But its just a wilton. Nothing special. Yes its big, but its still just a wilton.
 
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Outlawmws

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Aug 9, 2011
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Location
The Badlands
Just curious if any one has any information on Phoenix watch makers vises. I've seen more then a few on eBay but not too many sales ads or old literature. It seems like 1in or so is the most common model. Here is a picture of a 1in jaw for reference not my picture. 3eabc2bef4ebb49fc2c82edc2683f869.jpg

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

I don't know much but believe that had some link to Colton vises. IIRC, 454Ragtop has a nice collection of Coltons, he may be able to help you on some Phoenix info.


Yes, that's a Colton patent vise. George A. Colton is the patent holder, No. 320,224. Patented June 16, 1885. H&B, Inmarks, Phoenix and unmarked examples exist.

I'm up to four, from 1" to 2-1/2"
 

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Outlawmws

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Good afternoon gents.

I'm not up on Wilton prices. Is this worth $50? I know it's pretty beat. That's a 34oz bottle for size reference.

Best,
Rob


Wow that's rough! For $50 I'd say worth looking at, but its going to be some work to get it free of the jaw and base mount welds. Most of the rest looks like cutting slag...
 

Joefriday

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May 21, 2017
Messages
166
Location
Virginia
The Wilton is in everyday use at a city garage. I just happened upon it today while at the garage for a quick vehicle repair. It's big.

The bench it is on must literally weigh a ton.

It's not really for sale, I was just wondering the value.
 

G-ManBart

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Jan 24, 2015
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Location
Michigan
Good afternoon gents.

I'm not up on Wilton prices. Is this worth $50? I know it's pretty beat. That's a 34oz bottle for size reference.

Best,
Rob

That's a 600 and it's the older style that went away in the early 1970s for most models...6" jaws and weighs right at 150lbs.

It's probably worth $50 in parts, but not much as a vise. I'd grab it to save the tail cap assembly, nut, dust cover, spindle and as much of the swivel base as possible. For example, if the inner ring of the swivel base is good, that part alone is over $50 new. I would just expect the parts to be used to save other vises and put them back to work.
 
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meatsis

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Apr 1, 2010
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Hudson Valley NY
That's a C3 and it's the older style that went away in the early 1970s for most models...6" jaws, pipe jaws, and weighs right at 200lbs.

It's probably worth $50 in parts, but not much as a vise. I'd grab it to save the tail cap assembly, nut, dust cover, spindle and as much of the swivel base as possible. For example, if the inner ring of the swivel base is good, that part alone is over $50 new. I would just expect the parts to be used to save other vises and put them back to work.



Looks more like a 600. I don't see any pipe jaws.

But I could be wrong.
 
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Joefriday

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Virginia
That's a C3 and it's the older style that went away in the early 1970s for most models...6" jaws, pipe jaws, and weighs right at 200lbs.

It's probably worth $50 in parts, but not much as a vise. I'd grab it to save the tail cap assembly, nut, dust cover, spindle and as much of the swivel base as possible. For example, if the inner ring of the swivel base is good, that part alone is over $50 new. I would just expect the parts to be used to save other vises and put them back to work.

Good to have an idea of what parts are worth when coming across a trashed or otherwise valueless item.

This is why I asked the original question. I just did a poor job of it.

Thank you again.
Best,
Rob
 

Smokeshow69

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Dec 7, 2012
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Location
Pacific Northwest
Smokes..



Thank you. I try to keep things as simple as possible. I'm not particularly concerned with painting under the metal plate and I don't want to risk the chance of damaging the plate by removing it so I simply stick a piece of tape over it and trim around the edges with a razor blade.



Like I've said before, I don't have the skills or patience that some of the artists on here have; I just try to clean them up and leave a bit of original "character" on them.



Best,

Rob



PS. The paint on this one is Rust-O "charcoal gray" although it has more of a blue look in the pictures.



Good tip ! Like you said I would be worried about damaging the tag and I don't think painting under it out weighs the risk of damaging it. Thanks


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AntiqueVises

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Apr 8, 2016
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Sadieville, KY
f33d3687b70107f6570338473c26266f.jpg5e58ad0c249b3845a80f595009ef2b48.jpg82ea211734f78d628be79787e478f77e.jpg

Any info on this? The marking on the side has the numbers 101026

I recently got into collecting and found this today for $50 asking price. The guy said it works and lines up perfectly. Just wondering before I make the drive if it's worth the money?
 

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gman007

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Any info on this? The marking on the side has the numbers 101026

I recently got into collecting and found this today for $50 asking price. The guy said it works and lines up perfectly. Just wondering before I make the drive if it's worth the money?

I think that is a 4" from 1970s. It is missing the base and the jaws obviously are not original and badly manipulated (the jaws seem to have been drilled to screw in the extra large bolts to hold the inserts, so the jaws are screwed up too). Personally I would not spend $50 on it but others might have different ideas for parts etc.
 

AntiqueVises

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Sadieville, KY
I think that is a 4" from 1970s. It is missing the base and the jaws obviously are not original and badly manipulated (the jaws seem to have been drilled to screw in the extra large bolts to hold the inserts, so the jaws are screwed up too). Personally I would not spend $50 on it but others might have different ideas for parts etc.


thanks! didn't know it was even supposed to have a swivel base. also didn't know about the jaws, think i'll pass on it then
 

gman007

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thanks! didn't know it was even supposed to have a swivel base. also didn't know about the jaws, think i'll pass on it then

Here is what it should look like
 

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rusty65

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Pekin,IL
thanks, guess i'll keep looking!

i'm wanting to find a nice cheap wilton or reed that i can restore and use, pretty difficult to find in my area!
Honestly the biggest problem I personally see is the lower jaw ledge on the fixed jaw appears to be broken off. So if you could get that for 40 and just want a vise to fix up then maybe still worth the time because you could always get a very nice set of jaws from kmscott.

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AntiqueVises

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Honestly the biggest problem I personally see is the lower jaw ledge on the fixed jaw appears to be broken off. So if you could get that for 40 and just want a vise to fix up then maybe still worth the time because you could always get a very nice set of jaws from kmscott.

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would i still be able to attach a nice set of jaws with the way it's been modified?
 

rusty65

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would i still be able to attach a nice set of jaws with the way it's been modified?
Honestly no way to tell till you get the old set that's on it off. Because your going to need to know if they changed the thread pitch or even where the screws fit into the vise itself.

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redvalkyrie

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Nov 12, 2006
Messages
423
Okay fellas, I have more questions as you now converted me to the dark side. Once I get into restorations I become a junkie.

How do you guys that restore vises handle craters on the vise from being previous owners whacking something and obviously missing? Braze in new material? Let it be?

How do you prefer to polish the parts that should be shiny? Just the normal procedure? Sand, sand, sand, buffing wheel?

Does anyone powder coat their vises?

Thanks
John
 

AngryBeaver

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Lake Milton Ohio
Honestly the biggest problem I personally see is the lower jaw ledge on the fixed jaw appears to be broken off. So if you could get that for 40 and just want a vise to fix up then maybe still worth the time because you could always get a very nice set of jaws from kmscott.

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As long as it will hold jaws then it's fine. That's the mystery. I paid 50 bucks for the same vice with a busted off ledge.

And then I welded it.

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The ledge just supports the jaw. We've had vises at the shop for years broken like this. This is going on my little fabrication cart. It won't see heavy hammering but it'll work just fine for another 50+ years.
 

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AngryBeaver

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Good afternoon gents.

I'm not up on Wilton prices. Is this worth $50? I know it's pretty beat. That's a 34oz bottle for size reference.

Best,
Rob



I'd gladly give 50 bucks for that to put on my service truck and not think twice of it. If shipping wouldn't be killer I'd pay to have it shipped. Lol

It'd be work but could be made new again with a set of jaws. The rest is grinding
 

redvalkyrie

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As long as it will hold jaws then it's fine. That's the mystery. I paid 50 bucks for the same vice with a busted off ledge.

And then I welded it.

attachment.php


attachment.php


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attachment.php



The ledge just supports the jaw. We've had vises at the shop for years broken like this. This is going on my little fabrication cart. It won't see heavy hammering but it'll work just fine for another 50+ years.

What process did you use to restore that jaw? It came out perfect. Was it brazed, MIG, TIG?
 

AngryBeaver

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Location
Lake Milton Ohio
Tig

No preheat. Mix of 70S rod and 416. Wasn't worried about looks as it was all going to be ground down anyways.

70s first. Then alternating layers of 316 then back to 70s.

316 has a lot of give to it but pinholes bad on straight cast. The 70s is sort of a buffer. Old timer taught me this.

Most vices aren't ****** cast iron like engine blocks and what not. Technical term is ductile iron I believe. Has less carbon content than regular cast.

It's still dirty and crappy to weld. But..... for my intended use it'll work just fine.

I've had similar results using fluxcore mig on cast materials.

It's 50/50 whether is holds or not.
 
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