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'78 F350 Dually Project

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RivennHewn

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RivennHewn...If you don't mind me asking, how much did the pair of West Coast mirrors set you back...???

I was shocked at the asking prices for some of the NOS / vintage mirrors.

I found a Buy it now on EBay with a make offer option.
I started low and worked my way up to his minimum price.
I ended up paying $130

They are going to be a bit of a project getting them fitted.

I'm trying to decide if I want to repair or replace the doors prior to fitting the mirrors.
 
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RivennHewn

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Driving around my neighborhood, no problems. Decided to drive it to work today, and I started to overheat on the way home. Stop and go traffic. As long as I was moving, no problem. As soon as I'd hit a long light I could watch the gauge go up.

I'm reading that these 460 engines like to run hot (195+).

Any thoughts on a lower T-stat (I'm hearing this isn't the answer) or now I'm thinking of adding an additional electric fan with 175/ 195 degree on and off.

I want to feel comfortable driving in traffic without always looking for a way out if it spikes too high.
 

larry_g

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oregon
Driving around my neighborhood, no problems. Decided to drive it to work today, and I started to overheat on the way home. Stop and go traffic. As long as I was moving, no problem. As soon as I'd hit a long light I could watch the gauge go up.

I'm reading that these 460 engines like to run hot (195+).

Any thoughts on a lower T-stat (I'm hearing this isn't the answer) or now I'm thinking of adding an additional electric fan with 175/ 195 degree on and off.

I want to feel comfortable driving in traffic without always looking for a way out if it spikes too high.

Many years ago I had a 455 Olds engine in a Corvair. It had heating problems like you describe. I was able to talk with a cooling engineer at GM and one of the things he told me was to ditch the 160* thermostat and install a 195 or 200 degree one. His explanation was that the higher thermostat would slow down the water, allowing it to gather more heat in the motor and the higher differential temp in the radiator would allow it to dump more heat and stay longer in the radiator. You can try it and see, it worked for me.

You also said you have not had a timing light on it. Bad timing can also raise temps as well as not having the correct vacuum advance. If you changed the cam timing then ignition timing may have to change to the specs of the earlier engine. Not being a Ford guy I cannot advise if you should be running your vacuum advance on ported or manifold vacuum.

lg
no neat sig line
 

ephotrod

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The lack of proper air flow, can also cause idle temps to rise. Check to see if the fan is the right one and if it has the shroud.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 
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RivennHewn

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Larry,
I did finally get a light on it.
Approximately 12 degrees initial, and 36 total.
I may continue to play with it as I continue to make other adjustments, such as tuning the carb.

ep,
New fan clutch with the original 7 blade Ford fan.
New shroud too.

I haven't reinstalled the inner wheel wells yet, could that be part of the problem?
 
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RivennHewn

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Doing a little research this morning.

Looks like 460s have 2 temp sending units.

One goes to the gauge, one to the control module.

Currently my gauge is fed off the one intended for the CM.

Not sure if this is correct for my year.

Anyone familiar?
 

C_F

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Doing a little research this morning.

Looks like 460s have 2 temp sending units.

One goes to the gauge, one to the control module.

Currently my gauge is fed off the one intended for the CM.

Not sure if this is correct for my year.

Anyone familiar?

That's interesting, I had to dig up some photos of mine. Mine only has one sending unit. This is in a '77 Lincoln. There are two thermo vacuum switches though, but those are just for emission stuff mainly.
The best photo I have showing those is this one, before I painted it.

Q7vK9RPq.jpg
 

C_F

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I think the one they're talking about in the link, that goes to the computer, is probably for a later fuel injected 460.
Your broken one might actually be a vacuum one that's broken. It's been a while since I've seen one broken, but IIRC, it's mostly hollow in there, with a small metal rod in the center. Unless someone chucked the little rod.
 
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RivennHewn

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Pretty fly.....
for a selfie :pimpflash

171y


I've always like the Bushwacker fender flares. I couldn't afford them as a kid in '79, and couldn't justify them on this truck either. I went with the old rubber flares with the tempered coil wire run thru the outside edge.
A before pic:
gQ_FG

And an after pic:
pFbv


As much of a pain in the *** as I remember them:lol:



CF, One of the frustrations of not knowing what year your engine is:dunno:
 

Lwel9226

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Jun 7, 2014
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764
Location
So Oregon
Doing a little research this morning.

Looks like 460s have 2 temp sending units.

One goes to the gauge, one to the control module.

Currently my gauge is fed off the one intended for the CM.

Not sure if this is correct for my year.

Anyone familiar?

I have rebuilt 3 460's plus owned 3/4 others, (all carbed) never heard of this before, must be fuel injection related......
How did it run after you timed it??? :3gears: :3gears:

LynnW
 
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RivennHewn

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How did it run after you timed it??? :3gears: :3gears:

LynnW

Cold it runs rough. especially in 2nd gear starting out. Smoothes out nicely and feels right running down the highway.

I'm feeling like the carb is in need of some attention. All in good time.......
 
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RivennHewn

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Didn't like that sound....


Hm.......
We may have a problem here.
 

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RivennHewn

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Yes, it's a little step backwards.

What I know now:
The fluids seem fine. Oil and coolant are both full.


Turns over fine(coil wire removed for now). No nasty noises.


There is no apparent leaks on the front of the engine.


There is signs of a new leak at the fly wheel cover.

Still not quite decided on which course of action to take yet. Will continue to dig into it.

I feel like pulling the timing cover just to see if it's still intact, but I really don't want to.
 

C_F

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Still not quite decided on which course of action to take yet. Will continue to dig into it.

I feel like pulling the timing cover just to see if it's still intact, but I really don't want to.
So it sounds like some sort of engine related death noise?
You could pull the fuel pump off & have a look-see at the timing chain, in case something happened there. You could also rotate the crank by hand, to try & determine where the noise is coming from...without the starter noise, if something's broken inside.
 
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RivennHewn

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CF,

Fuel pump was what I was thinking. To see if there was any damage to the arm, or sticking a scope in there to see what, if anything, to look for clues.

Also thought I'd pull the starter and cover plate for a visual inspection.

3rd would be pull the plugs and crank it over by hand and monitor what is still moving as it should.

My long term goal for this truck was a new engine. I just wanted to do it on my timeframe. Life doesn't always stick to your schedule/ agenda.
 

McBrownie

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Cleveland, OH
"Open up a can of worms and you just may wind up with a fine kettle of fish."

Really enjoying/appreciating all of the effort on this project. Looking forward to the kettle of King Salmon.
 
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RivennHewn

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perhaps you should consider swapping in a Cummins ! Just an idea. :thumbup:

If/ when I start seriously considering a swap, it may not be a cummins but it will be a inline 6.

Something along the lines of https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=281207&highlight=supercharged+inline
Wishing for an update on this thread.

McBrownie,

Funny you bring up that quote. I'm definitely feeling like I opened up the can of worms, poured them down the rabbit hole(the one next to the swamp), and ended up in a tunnel with no light at the end as of yet. And somehow I already smell like a pot of boiled smelt.
 

matt_i

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SE Michigan
I would try a couple of things first, drain the oil/oil change thru a fine-r screen to see if metallic parts are running out. Then replace oil if it seems normal.

Next I'd pull the dist cap and make sure the rotor is turning as the engine is cranked. That should give clues about the cam drive/chain drive under the front cover.

If all checks out you could pull the rocker covers and make sure all pushrods are intact and seated, do a visual inspection of every spring and valve, etc.

Trying to think of "easy" tasks that aren't halfway to an engine swap.
 

HOTFR8

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If/ when I start seriously considering a swap, it may not be a cummins but it will be a inline 6.

Something along the lines of https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=281207&highlight=supercharged+inline
Wishing for an update on this thread.

McBrownie,

Funny you bring up that quote. I'm definitely feeling like I opened up the can of worms, poured them down the rabbit hole(the one next to the swamp), and ended up in a tunnel with no light at the end as of yet. And somehow I already smell like a pot of boiled smelt.

Well you know my Cummins swap worked well. Here's hoping you can sort out what went wrong and the fix is not to complex or expensive. As for the topic you refer to that would be nice to see an update.
 

danski0224

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Jan 29, 2005
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Near Naperville, IL
Driving around my neighborhood, no problems. Decided to drive it to work today, and I started to overheat on the way home. Stop and go traffic. As long as I was moving, no problem. As soon as I'd hit a long light I could watch the gauge go up.

I'm reading that these 460 engines like to run hot (195+).

Any thoughts on a lower T-stat (I'm hearing this isn't the answer) or now I'm thinking of adding an additional electric fan with 175/ 195 degree on and off.

I want to feel comfortable driving in traffic without always looking for a way out if it spikes too high.

I have a mild non-stock 460 in my 79 Ford F100, and have never had a problem overheating while driving or idling (no trailer pulling though). Even on 100*F days, not even a hint of overheating while stuck in traffic.

I also have the Desert Cooler radiator, proper shroud and OEM fan.
 
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RivennHewn

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Not much info to update. I haven't had the time, energy, or gumption to get out and diagnose things.

I did get it brought in under the carport, as this is Seattle and the rain will come.

One thing I did notice while moving it today was that it doesn't want to go into 4th gear. I rolled it forward a bit, tried again, and it still wouldn't go into 4th.

Not really sure what that means, but I'm sure it ain't good either:willy_nil

B616
 
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RivennHewn

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That's pretty cool.....


Last night about 11:30 PM, I decided to order a borescope for my iPhone.

Today at about 11:30AM I got an email saying my new borescope was at the Amazon locker near my work. I picked it up at lunch.

A still pic shot thru the fuel pump hole:
jj_5


I can also watch/record video with it.

Pretty cool for $38 bucks
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MYTHWK4/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I'll be scoping all the cylinders
 

jhn9840

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Mar 11, 2007
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Northern Panhandle of WV
Camera is sweet, nice clear picture. Could have used that last week when I had a stubborn clog in the bathroom sink. Does it make it around bends easy?

jhn9840
John
 
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