What did you do "IN" your garage today?

[kaymccampbell]

Recharged the Caravan AC. Made a skipper ball. Added more hose to my tire inflator. Replumbed the wet grinder to use a fish pump instead of a gravity tank. Put a new touchscreen in my camera.j

 

[Bob Heine]

I think the Chrysler engineers made a mistake with the first buried evaporator design and then couldn't stop laughing about it. The merger with Daimler-Benz didn't help because I understand their evaporators are buried even deeper. I replaced the evaporator in my '04 PT Cruiser in 2007 but when it died in 2014 I paid $1,500 to a younger guy. He quoted $1,300 but had forgotten how bad the job was and I wanted him to stay in business ($1,500 was still $300 less than the next best quote).

I don't know how anyone forgets this:

 

[Outlawmws]

Made Sawdust after two evenings of re-thinking the stuff I wanted inside the "Supply" box; I cut the dados for the dividers and after dinner, the outside panels.

So I've almost got boxes!:

Plugging nail holes, sanding then I start gluing and clamping the cases, together. I wanted the panels so I can make sure the cases glue up square...

 

[rzims]

I finally finished a tool cart I started a couple of months ago...
The project started with me trying to learn sketch-up, proceeded to lots of sawdust and finally to a working tool cart.

 

[zmotorsports]

My 95 ram needs a heater core. not looking forward to pulling the entire dash out. what a stupid design.

I hear ya, I had to replace the heater core in my '93 Dodge Shadow in November 1911, I used a bit of redneck engineering to hold the larger pieces off the floor.
I'm not sure which was worse, this one or my '84 Mustang with A/C.

Definitely not the funnest job but I have just completely removed the dash which wasn't too much more work.

That being said, I think the worst heater core I have ever done was on the 90's Sable/Taurus body. I think they built the entire car around just the heater core and A/C evaporator.

Mike

 

[zmotorsports]

Last night I had an hour or so to put into my front wheel bearing from post #25067. I had to air hammer (chisel) the wheel hub from the bearing (original one, with 227K miles), which mangled the center of the hub...(sorry for the blurry photos.

The rest of the outer is out.

The mangled hub (from the air hammer) is why I usually always purchase the bearing & hub combo...even though the new one has "bling" gold studs.

Double bearing common on most wheels these days...which consists of two inner races & roller bearing sets, and one fat outer race. An oil seal is pressed in on each side, in one easy bearing package.

Bearing pressed into the knuckle. (Gonna have to kill my camera) Snap ring ready to go in.

Hub going into the double bearing. And yes, Ford FE cylinder heads provide a nice flat press surface when you need the space. Remember to brace the inner races when you do this, or they will separate halfway through.

Together & done for tonight, the hub spins freely. Reassembly on Friday!

WOW! Look at those purdy gold studs.

Mike

 

[zmotorsports]

Last night I pressure washed the Jeep to get all of the Colorado dirt and mud off the undercarriage. I also vacuumed and detailed the interior before pulling it into the shop and putting it on the lift in preparation to pull the front axle from under it.

Mike

 

[kaymccampbell]

Made Sawdust after two evenings of re-thinking the stuff I wanted inside the "Supply" box; I cut the dados for the dividers and after dinner, the outside panels.

So I've almost got boxes!:

Cool. Looks almost like old timey luggage.

 

[Mpower5266]

I think the Chrysler engineers made a mistake with the first buried evaporator design and then couldn't stop laughing about it. The merger with Daimler-Benz didn't help because I understand their evaporators are buried even deeper. I replaced the evaporator in my '04 PT Cruiser in 2007 but when it died in 2014 I paid $1,500 to a younger guy. He quoted $1,300 but had forgotten how bad the job was and I wanted him to stay in business ($1,500 was still $300 less than the next best quote).

I don't know how anyone forgets this:

I just wanted to join the chrysler heater core crew. Did my former jeep almost a year ago.

5c95c326b6d0f95d8dbc75e95b4cbb70 by mpower5266, on Flickr

a6a1bc9708855db73c641f9ea90c4dc4 by mpower5266, on Flickr

a2e5a0bcf13ef8c1ca119af0e7480e52 by mpower5266, on Flickr

 

[Bevis]

Replaced a traction drive belt on my zero turn mower...then repaired a old rocking chair for my MIL.

 

[velillen01]

I got the engine mounted to the frame. Feels great finally putting the FJ40 back together instead of just tearing it apart!

Should have the drive line (minus driveshafts), suspension (minus shocks) and brakes from axles to frame done in the next week or so

View media item 74003

 

[4 FN 27]

Finally got around to putting the Tonue Cover on my Dually. Then I go to roll out the Bed Mat to find it is for a Colorado...invoice says Silverado.

 

[Outlawmws]

Cool. Looks almost like old timey luggage.

Thanks Kay, It does a bit, doesn't it?

Drilled and dowel plugged nail holes tonight before I ran out of gas, but they are all done. Tomorrow I sand and glue the cases together, then sand some more.... Then attach the side panels and start on the dividers, shelves, and two interior doors.
.

I was expecting to use mostly 1/8" or possibly 1/4" dowel. It was mostly 5/16, a few 3/8, and two 7/16! (those I had to glue some cracks I'd missed before, and clamp it shut while I drilled) Only four were 1/8, and two 1/4... rusty rials do damage...

I had to go get the 3/8 and more 5/16 as I ran out...(I had less than a foot to start of the 5/16). Of course it was two separate trips! :tard:

I thought I had used about 1/3 of the salvage paneling I had. I was looking for some smaller 1/4" ply panels for dividers and shelves, and I found two more oversize sheets, and half another!

Tomorrow, after yard sailing, is another day...

 

[Sawdustmaker]

Last night I finalized the Box plans for length and height (width had been determined...), and today glued some spit ends one some of the boards (It is Salvage wood...), then spend WAY more time than I expected to get the finger joint dado and fixture setup. Turns out my Dado is 5/8 and the arbor is 1/2.. so I had to come up with a sleeve. (I also bought the main hinges I needed as well as some magnet catches for the inner cabinet doors one box will have while I was at the HW store)

Then I realize the dado body is too bid forth e dang arbor length! so I dug out three identical new blades (also 5/8 hole, I had to cut about a 3/16 sleeve section off the bronze bushing I'd bought) and stacked them with the middle one offset, dang! this thing cuts an almost exact 1/4" kurf!

The after FOUR tries got the actual fixture to space correctly.

Here is a test on a some scrap... My very first (successful) Box/Finger joint:

I'm beat, but I'd like to get at least one set of box frames done tonight, (I'm typing as I needed a break been at it all dang day...)

Outlaw
it does get better. When you first start doing box joints the whole process will make your teeth itch as well as your brain. Dovetails are no fun either, but some of the jigs ($$$$) available make them tolerable if you want to spend some bucks. I was fussing with building a box joint jig when my wife got the Incra Box Joint jig for me. I have now found a method for box joints using a shop built cross cut sled.

 

[Sawdustmaker]

I made a snake stick about 1am to get rid of a rattler that I almost stepped on letting my dog in!

Ah, the well known "**** tail" rattler of AZ. When I was living in Northern Arizona I pulled into town on a Saturday to get the mail, saw a crowd of guys standing around a Chevy pick up. There was one of these rattlers (dead) draped across the front bumper. Its head was on the ground to the left and its tail was on the ground to the right. Would not have believed it if I didn't see it myself. Killed several in my 3 years in Nor. AZ.

 

[Sawdustmaker]

I hear ya, I had to replace the heater core in my '93 Dodge Shadow in November 1911, I used a bit of redneck engineering to hold the larger pieces off the floor.
I'm not sure which was worse, this one or my '84 Mustang with A/C.

Try a heater core replacement on a 1999 Ford F-150.

 

[Sawdustmaker]

Made Sawdust after two evenings of re-thinking the stuff I wanted inside the "Supply" box; I cut the dados for the dividers and after dinner, the outside panels.

So I've almost got boxes!:

Plugging nail holes, sanding then I start gluing and clamping the cases, together. I wanted the panels so I can make sure the cases glue up square...

Box joints look good. Nice case.

 

[polexican23]

moved about 95% of stuff out of the way to epoxy the other half of my garage. Fun times.

 

[nyy845]

Plans from Family Handyman; I adjusted to make it a little longer.

 

[C_F]

Try a heater core replacement on a 1999 Ford F-150.

Oh, I can imagine.
The easiest heater core I ever did, was in my sister's '82 Ford ******, no A/C. (this was back in the mid 90's) That thing came out like a cassette tape! It took me about 20-30 minutes, start to finish. I felt sooo lucky with that one.

WOW! Look at those purdy gold studs.

Mike

Right? That's the first time I've gotten gold studs with one of these bearing & hub sets, usually they are black.

 

[DGersic]

Made a pile of sawdust. I'm making a work bench top. Need to glue and clamp it still.

It's a core of 2x3 being face glued in to a solid block. Edges are 2x4. Top is 3/4" sanded plywood. I cut dados in to the 2x4s and a rabbet on the plywood to lock everything together.



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[lilredex]

Spent a couple of recent hot days organizing and sorting some smaller screws and electrical connectors. They are in one place now instead of all over the place, in small drawers that I found roadside on a discarded bed headboard. Everything now fits neatly in my workbench. The plastic boxes came from DOLLARAMA, back when everything was a dollar.

 

[kaymccampbell]

Walked through, going from the pool to the front door.

 

[isb cornbinder]

The horn circuit was making ground somewhere when the steering wheel was turned. I pulled the steering wheel and followed the circuit through the contact ring and into the steering column. There was nothing obvious, so, I put the column back together and whatever was the problem seems to have gone away. On the off-chance this situation happens again, I replaced the on-on Cole Hersee switch with an on-off-on unit. I can place the selector switch in the centre and cancel the horn. The Ford has an electric horn called "New York Taxi" in the right fender and in the left fender I installed a Brazilian Ford COE twin trumpet air horn. The air horn is supplied with air from a solenoid that is part of the air system of the car. I am a little disappointed with the air horn not being louder than the NYT electric, but the frequency is noticeably different.
This Ford has an on-board air supply with a compressor and storage tank for the air spring suspension.

 

[zcar751]

Pulled the fuel tank out of the RC so I could take the fuel pump out.

 

[Edstu234]

I decided on a new place to put away the weed whacker after yard work.

 

[Outlawmws]

Walked through, going from the pool to the front door.

Kay took the day off!

 

[Outlawmws]

After a four hour Yardsailing stint, (about 2X normal, as it was an annual "special event" set of sales, in part of town) I did some sanding on the insides of the box cases, and then started assembling the finger joints with glue...

As they were dry enough( I could only glue one frame at a time... only 3 36" bar clamps so I was stuck) I sanded the outsides, and eventually got the smaller Stove/lantern/Table box attached with hinges. I need shorter brads for the brad nailer, to glue/nail the sides on...

I also cracked on end piece on the larger "supply" cabinet, and had to glue that bachk together... it needed to fry overnight so that one gets glued up tomorrow...

First Glue up; the side is just clamped to ensure its square.

After Sanding the cases outside

Finished finger joints:

The legs need a block to go into for table mode:

And drilled 2" deep (at a compound 3 deg angle...)

The result:

Finally got the hinges on and tomorrow I get shorter brads, get the outside panels glued/Nailed, add the leg blocks, add a divider against the leg blocks, and two more for between the lanterns and the stove.

Then it needs stain, and seal. I finally decided to stain the cases dark, as that hides a multitude of sins for the re-purposed pallet oak.

The larger case also gets assembled tomorrow, and dividers cut for that. I still need latches, and I want them low profile...

 

[Sawdustmaker]

Plans from Family Handyman; I adjusted to make it a little longer.

Nice. Saw that plan too, I just don't have room (right now) for it. How do you like the Milwaukee 12v Circular Saw? I've been considering one for awhile.

 

[cheechi]

put up two wall panels, hanger for spray bottles, swept & vacuumed 1500 sqft put away tons of stuff cleared off prob 10 sqft of bench space.

the wall panels needed to go up 3 years ago. I leveled one of my workbenches and that needed to be done 2 years ago. Feels good but I should have got to this stuff a long time ago.

 

[Outlawmws]

Well I didn't make quite as much progress as I'd hoped, but the first box for the Stove and lantern is near complete. It needs two dividers cut and installed, and stain on the case, etc, plus the latches I don't have yet. But the outside panels are glued and brad nailed in place, edges trimmed and sanded, and the leg blocks glued and screwed into place.

The second larger box is about where the first box was yesterday.

I did waste over an hour buying a 1/4 sheet of ply (turns out its much stiffer than the paneling despite it being the same thickness. ), Then returning it as it's NOT 1/4" thick, its thicker; and going elsewhere and got the right stuff. (Dados were cut and the box ready to assemble. I was MOT going to go try to shave a bit more out of each of 20 dado cuts...)


Tomorrow after work is another day.

 

[NewShockerGuy]

My father gave me his 9 year old Husqvarna 7021r lawnmower. He bought a new one because he did't feel like spending money to change the wheels or carb. EVERYTHING on the unit was original, even the spark plug. My parents brought it down a couple weeks ago and I had already ordered parts for it.
New front/rear wheels, carb, spark plug, filter, bag, foam grips, blade...etc.

I replaced all that stuff but still noticed it made a squeaking noise. Found out the rear wheel bearings were shot. Took the entire mower apart and replaced those along with the belt, both pulleys, drive and idle cables, front wheel plastic bushings, and misc springs on the mower. Ran fine. It WAS chipped up in many spots. Bought a can of Rustoleum Husqvarna paint. Used it for another week. Kept looking at the mower and was not happy with the spots that were touched up because you could see in other places the bubbles because of the original paint lifting in spots (which after 9 years is to be expected).

Welp today I said screw it and took everything apart again. I wasn't sure how to remove the motor but was actually pleasantly surprised it's only 3 bolts underneath. Quite easy actually. I started by pressure washing the entire deck, drying it and now I'm in the process of sanding it. I've sanded down all the chips/rust for the most part and will spray primer on it in the morning when I go to Lowes to get some along with another can of husqvarna orange.

My wife thinks I am silly/dumb for putting all this time in a used mower. It's kind of relaxing to me honestly. I guess price wise the amount of money I've put into the mower would actually equal a new mower. I think I have almost $300 in parts but that's only because I changed all the wear parts and even some plastic/rubber bits. I figure the honda motor will last a long time, and he did take care of it. Always changed the oil.

Will post up some progress pics later in the week after it's done. I removed all the stickers from the deck minus the one from the manufacture indicating model/serial. Figured this is handy so I will just mask that part off. I tend to do this with used stuff and actually make it better than how I received/purchased it.

First couple pictures are how the mower was when my dad had it. Rest are in my garage in places...lol

-Nigel

 

[kaymccampbell]

Sat in the shade in between bouts with crusher run and paver bricks.

 

[Outlander]

Cleaned the ATV, pulled out winter tires to drop off at shop with new wheels, washed the BBQ grill, pondered the audacity of the human condition.

 

[Thirdyfivepickup]

I assembled shelves I picked up cheap based on a post in the Hot Deals section here (THANKS Garage Journal)

Prepped and painted drawers for my Craftsman rolling cart to match the blue and black theme of my Kobalt tool chest. Started hanging stuff on my peg board... cursing the new peg hooks that aren't bent to a full 90*

Then cleaned and straightened the garage up for the impending yard sale this weekend.

 

[k-os]

Put the last coat of danish oil (I think it's 5 coats now) on the behind-the-couch table. Once this dries for a couple more days I'll start sealing it with Polycrylic, then need to mount the electrical boxes and get it wired up.

 

[poppinjohnnies]

I'm almost finished with my cabinets. One more evening and the painting will be finished, or I'll run out of paint.

 

[polexican23]

power washed the half i just emptied out. getting ready to acid etch and epoxy.

 

[NewShockerGuy]

Primed. Not bad for a spray can job, but I am a little worried about tiger type stripes when I do the paint in a couple days. I wish I had a cheap air gun type thing and hooked it to my compressor. No painting today since it's raining.

-Nigel

 

[rayra]

So I farted around with the upgrade trans cooler for my '02 Suburban this morning, popped the shroud and grill off the Sub to examine the factory cooler setup and confirm the trans cooler piping sizes. Which is 3/8" and the cooler kit comes with 3/8" hose and 3 pairs of barbed connections, with different size threading. I THINK the factory cooler threaded connections will fit the new cooler.

The pump line from the trans enters the radiator tank at the lower 3/8" connection, exits at the upper 3/8" connection. And on this factory towing option vehicle, the upper line comes out of the radiator and loops down and under the radiator and rises up in front of the AC condensor to make a couple 90deg bends and connect to the passenger side of the factory cooler. Then the driver side of the cooler returns to the trans.

Here's the grill laying flat below the cooler, you can see the Chevy 'Bowtie' is as big as the cooler. And the upper half of the factory cooler sits fully behind it.

And compared with the new cooler, you can see how much larger the latter is.

The A-frame that supports the hood latch and the trans cooler is a natural mount for the larger cooler. Centering it though still puts the bowtie square in the middle of the new much larger cooler. And I'll have to flip the lower cross brace such that its L-angle structure faces back towards the AC condenser, there's plenty of room for that.

I'm intending to cut the incoming line near the bottom shroud and flip its cooler end 180deg, to the left. And use a 3/8" double-ended compression union to reconnect that line. And/but that will shift the new cooler far left. But that's OK by me. And I'll likely use a converter fitting with a female thread on one end and a 3/8" barb on the other, put that on the outbound factory fitting and use a kit-provided barb on that end of the cooler and use some of the provided rubber hose to bridge the distance. That will get it done with a minimum of fuss. My first searches of the big box stores fails to turn up a simple / direct combination of fittings for a direct connection, without being some Rube Goldbergian (Super Mario Bros, for you younger folk) plumbing mess. I SHOULD use metal line and compression fittings and avoid hose altogether. But there is factory hose in some segments already. So I don't think it matters much.

Also briefly considered filling the Bowtie with expanded metal mesh, so air goes straight thru it.