theoldwizard1
Well-known member
I have seen other system like this on YouTube. The separate building gives you the space to store dry wood. I think it also help with the insurance company ("You heat with WOOD !!!"
)
picts of your in-floor heat set ups.
- Thread starter E.rodz
- Start date
I have seen other system like this on YouTube. The separate building gives you the space to store dry wood. I think it also help with the insurance company ("You heat with WOOD !!!"
)theoldwizard1
Well-known member
Jon_E, why the heat exchanger making it a 2 loop system ?
What is the make and model heat exchanger ? Do you have temp gauges on both sides f the heat exchanger ?
What is the make and model heat exchanger ? Do you have temp gauges on both sides f the heat exchanger ?
Jon_E
Well-known member
I was debating the use of the heat exchanger, but since the wood boiler loop is an open system, I wanted to isolate it from the closed loop for the garage floor heat. I could probably do it without the HX, but then I run into issues with air in the lines and it will be much harder to control water temperatures. Plus, the OWB loop pump is located at the OWB, and that will be pressed into service in the warmer months for pool heating. So I actually need two pumps in the system - one for circulation IN the garage and one for circulation TO the garage (which will also be the pool heating circ.)
I haven't bought some of these parts yet. That's why I drew a sketch and presented it to the forum, I didn't want to buy stuff I didn't need. So the heat exchanger is one of those I haven't picked up yet. I usually buy stuff like this on eBay, so it will likely be a generic brazed flat-plate exchanger w/ 10 plates.
I can install temp gauges anywhere, just haven't decided where to put them yet. I don't have them on my primary loop in the house.
Similar to a Garn in some aspects. A Garn is an open unpressurized system and you have to monitor the water quality a lot more.
The Switzer boiler is a pressurized system with oil back up. I believe the Garn only offers an electrical backup.
NitroGarage
Well-known member
If you don't mind me asking, what did you pay for yours Wook?
I believe it was around $12K
I'm in the process of installing the same boiler in my house now. While this is only for the house at the moment, I hope to hook it into my garage in the near future.
Sweet. I've been running it for almost a year now and its been great.
crankshaftdan II
Well-known member
Just a quick question-would you mind explaining what the exterior material consists of for the outer skin of the boiler?
Just a quick question-would you mind explaining what the exterior material consists of for the outer skin of the boiler?
The boiler was wrapped in fiberglass insulation and then what you see on the outside is a rigid insulation that comes like an accordion in a box and it all unfolds and goes over the boiler to form a nice shell.
hercules633
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2012
- Messages
- 52
IrocZ, did you design system or is it a premade panel? I have seen some with the extra loop back to on demand heater and some that dont have that loop or bypass, which is best And why? Where do you have the condensate draining to? I was under the impression I would need a pump for mine since I have no interior drains in shop. What are temps in and out?
Thanks Mike
Iroc-Z
Well-known member
Mike,
Panel was pre made. The boiler and panel both came from a company called hydrosmart. Products can be purchased at Menards. The panel was not cheap but I was gun shy about building my own. I talked with the tech department at hydrosmart and he explained how it worked. The boiler works off of flow. The themostat only controls the pumps. The floor in temp is about 85 degrees. Out is about 58-60. The boiler loop is about 120 degrees. There is a mixing valve that will mix the floor loop with the boiler loop. I am no expert but I suspect making the boiler take cold water up to temp is not as efficient as having maintain a temp. Right now I have the condensation drain just going in a bucket. I have plumbing and a floor drain. I will run a condensation pump once I get the bathroom done. Last I keep the shop at 57 degrees. I had it at 58-59 and it was too hot. Can't believe how warm the building feels using infloor heat.
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Iroc-Z
Well-known member
So far so good. Cost wise I think it was like $1400. Honestly I am vary happy with the whole system. Also the people at hydrosmart have been overly helpful.
Here is your corrosion resistant storage tanks and he makes heat exchangers also.
http://www.americansolartechnics.com/products/heat-bank-storage-tanks/
This guy worked with **** Hill for many years, **** is the king of gassifier wood boilers, Garn and everyone else copied Dicks design
Bet that sounds like a locomotive when its going good. Awesome looking boiler
hercules633
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2012
- Messages
- 52
IrocZ thanks for the feed back. Yes I will have my system up and running next winter. We have been getting slammed here in Montana while the rest of the country, East coast, for the most part has been having steady spring temps. I think you are correct on the bypass loop back to furnace being easier and more economical to heat warm rather than cold fluid. I wonder if I can use my single 58 groundfus pump to do loops and bypass and have it controlled with a couple valves? What are you running as far as your fluid, water, antifreeze, combination?
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Iroc-Z
Well-known member
I am running antifreeze due to the fact that I got it for free from a buddy that does boiler heat for a living.
I will tell you the boiler specifies that it requires two pumps to work properly. Its actually written in big letters about that. So I would say just running one pump is not an option.
Hi, everybody. That was a **** ton of reading! I'll be getting something like these built soon by others...I want to be using it before I get any older
One thing I haven't seen brought up in this thread-paint fumes vs. boiler/heater/furnace. My shop will be bodywork oriented, so this is a matter of some concern.
For amusement value only; I didn't and wouldn't do this...I watched a guy hold a primer gun about a foot away from the glowing end of a kerosene torpedo heater, spray primer directly in it, and it didn't blow up
It was my garage, and and one of those " no impulse control " ( former ) friends
One thing I haven't seen brought up in this thread-paint fumes vs. boiler/heater/furnace. My shop will be bodywork oriented, so this is a matter of some concern.
For amusement value only; I didn't and wouldn't do this...I watched a guy hold a primer gun about a foot away from the glowing end of a kerosene torpedo heater, spray primer directly in it, and it didn't blow up
It was my garage, and and one of those " no impulse control " ( former ) friends
Iroc-Z
Well-known member
On a side note to anyone thinking about doing this. I did this project not being 100 percent sold on the idea. Everyone told me I would regret not heating my shop this way. I now agree. I thought I would need an air furnace to catch back up when garage doors open or cold cars are pulled in. I was wrong. With everything being warm the air heats back up fast.
Burl
Well-known member
I see only one pump in the pic. Am I missing one? What did they charge you for the piping system, what all did it consist of? Thanks!
Where are you in PA that you can't burn wood? Must be a local ordinance.
Or is it that you can't have an outdoor wood boiler? The one that wook660 and I posted about is an indoor model.
Iroc-Z
Well-known member
There are two pumps. I think the panel was 1400
2011laramie
Well-known member
Bump
forAK
Well-known member
my system has only one pump i think the whole reason for the two pumps is a failsafe so if one pump fails it doesn't cook the boiler! however my boiler has a flow valve that needs to sense flow before the boiler can turn on so i decided to just use one pump. it has been holding up for years without issues so far.
SHARPMACHINE
Member
- Joined
- Mar 1, 2011
- Messages
- 6
I am curious how much firewood it takes to heat the home based on size, temp etc.. Seems like an awesome set up.
knuckleduster271
Banned
Anyone know of a good book with detailed plans on how to do this?
bowtiguy
Well-known member
I second this! The wife won't trust me with the house build, but I'm going to talk her into the 4K sq ft garage.
knuckleduster271
Banned
I have an idea of how to do it but a set of plans could save some headaches and alot of time on google.
I plan to use a gas h2o heater-
I plan to use a gas h2o heater-
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slackdaddy1
Well-known member
Quick question,, looking at all the electric boiler systems: why is the boiler typically mounted ABOVE the rest of the components on the mechanicals board?
Getting ready to complete my system and was going to have the Electro Industries boiler LOWER than most of the components on the board.
Am I missing something?
Thanks,
Nick
Getting ready to complete my system and was going to have the Electro Industries boiler LOWER than most of the components on the board.
Am I missing something?
Thanks,
Nick
slackdaddy1
Well-known member
System up and running,
700 sq ft garage, R19 walls, R38 ceiling, 1" blue board under slab and edges.
2) 300' loops, Elecro Industries Mini boiler (4.5KW)
Could not be happier, took 1 day to heat up slab.
Air T-stat set at 55 deg, outside has been 0 - 20 deg the last week,, system rarely is on.
Slack
700 sq ft garage, R19 walls, R38 ceiling, 1" blue board under slab and edges.
2) 300' loops, Elecro Industries Mini boiler (4.5KW)
Could not be happier, took 1 day to heat up slab.
Air T-stat set at 55 deg, outside has been 0 - 20 deg the last week,, system rarely is on.
Slack
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slackdaddy1:
The system rarely "on" is not necessarily a good thing -- it's all a question of BTU's available and what's needed.
How are you feeding water to the system?
Typically put a valve before the spiro and a boiler purge before that -- close the valve and push all the air out. The feed should go between the spiro and pressure tank. Easy to purge all the air.
Also, like my pumps horizontal or pumping up --- no air problems. Also - gauges typically like to be up.
The system rarely "on" is not necessarily a good thing -- it's all a question of BTU's available and what's needed.
How are you feeding water to the system?
Typically put a valve before the spiro and a boiler purge before that -- close the valve and push all the air out. The feed should go between the spiro and pressure tank. Easy to purge all the air.
Also, like my pumps horizontal or pumping up --- no air problems. Also - gauges typically like to be up.
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slackdaddy1
Well-known member
Well "rarely is an over statement,, compared to my old uninsulated heated slab shop,, this one runs less.
It is a closed system, Filled with 75% cryo-tech, 25% H2O
The fill and purge connections are the upper right.
The pressure gauge is mounted down as to not trap air.
As long as the air is purged in the initial setup and with the additional 2 gal liquid in the pressure tank (on a 5.5 gal system) the pump will never see "air", the LWC will make sure of that.
It is a closed system, Filled with 75% cryo-tech, 25% H2O
The fill and purge connections are the upper right.
The pressure gauge is mounted down as to not trap air.
As long as the air is purged in the initial setup and with the additional 2 gal liquid in the pressure tank (on a 5.5 gal system) the pump will never see "air", the LWC will make sure of that.
slackdaddy1
Well-known member
Some reason pics are not showing up 
Here is some of my tubing.
Some more tubing, house is a bit over 1500 soft, garage is just under 1600 sqft.
Natural gas boiler.
Some reason pics are not showing up
I fixed them
dwysywd
Well-known member
So this was a long time coming. Basically i built the quanset hut in November 2015 and didn't pour concrete until July 2017. The floor is 5-6" thick with a 1" slope to my drain and has 800 linear feet of 1/2" oxygen barrier pex. The heater is Marey 10L from Amazon. The circ pump and controller are TACO. And the thermostat is an old unit from the house that I just updated.
Only thing I was I had done when I poured the concrete was spray foam the barn while I had everything out. But alas, I have to do that this spring.
Sent from my bag phone
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TurnipTruck
Well-known member
Caleffi has everything hydronic you will ever need to know for free online.
That1Guy
Well-known member
Lookin good! I'm in the same boat with the spray foam. I couldn't swing it last Fall because I was "pole barn broke!" after the initial build and concrete - lol. I could have swung it after the new year but I chose to wait to avoid any issues with the cold. I've read that the walls need to be 55 degrees when they spray to avoid possible separation from the walls. I'm not willing to risk it so I chose to wait until Spring.
Sadly, now I've crammed so much **** from the garage, into the pole barn to give me room to work in the garage over the winter, that it'll take me an entire day just to gut the barn and pile everything outside of the barn to give them room to spray! LOL.
Will you be able to pull your system away from the wall to allow them to spray back behind it? I saw some gas pipe so it made me wonder - hmm
I'm definitely gonna follow along on this one.
Keep the updates and pictures comin!
Sadly, now I've crammed so much **** from the garage, into the pole barn to give me room to work in the garage over the winter, that it'll take me an entire day just to gut the barn and pile everything outside of the barn to give them room to spray! LOL.
Will you be able to pull your system away from the wall to allow them to spray back behind it? I saw some gas pipe so it made me wonder - hmm
I'm definitely gonna follow along on this one.
Keep the updates and pictures comin!