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The VISES of Garage Journal

topp64

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Joined
Jan 29, 2013
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126
Location
Des Moines, Iowa
Is anyone aware of any vise primer that a vise newby can maybe get up to speed a little quicker? Something that details how vises operate, details that are maybe shared across quality vises, and what some of the good quality old reliable vise brands and even models are?

I'm asking a lot I know. This is my vise. It was made in Japan. I'm not sure how old it is but it is a HUGE improvement over the little clamp-on Brinks & Cotton POS I used for about 20 years when my workbench was the table top of my 40 year-old Craftsman RAS. I'm hoping to get a real vise one of these days. Not talking about a collector's vise but a user.

Thanks!
Mike

Try here https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=62716
 
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hitthewall79

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Feb 2, 2018
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196
So my girlfriend wanted me to ask you guys, because she is an artist, and has a genuine curiosity... Do you think that there's a market for custom painted vises with designs and graphics on them, or would it be wasted effort?

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drivesitfar

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Oct 23, 2013
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GL: great post and good luck with both the seller of the C1 (one of the best Wilton vises models made in my opinion) and your BRIDE!!

Tex: so if you read all that thread maybe you can teach us what is the best primer? Fretters did an experiment putting BLO on one of his old vises after he stripped it clean to keep it from flash rusting, then he painted over it and said it worked better than primer.

that little Craftsman might have been the most popular homeowner vise in the 60's, 70's and maybe the 80's too.

keep asking questions and if you've seen any of my posts here or elsewhere I'm still asking questions as i pass on what i know or what i've heard are facts.

good luck

Hit: some of the members shine up their vises so much that they look like ART so if you and your gal want to put another cool touch with some interesting paint i don't see why it wouldn't work. especially on those 1 and 2 inch aluminum wilton baby bullets cause they'd be going to guys that might have the extra funds to pay for one spiffed up a little cooler. just a heads up I probably wouldn't buy one, but I wouldn't turn it down if it was a gift either.

good luck
 

txlonghorn1989

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Tex: so if you read all that thread maybe you can teach us what is the best primer? Fretters did an experiment putting BLO on one of his old vises after he stripped it clean to keep it from flash rusting, then he painted over it and said it worked better than primer.

that little Craftsman might have been the most popular homeowner vise in the 60's, 70's and maybe the 80's too.

keep asking questions and if you've seen any of my posts here or elsewhere I'm still asking questions as i pass on what i know or what i've heard are facts.

good luck

Thanks drives! I happened to really look at the Classifieds today and noticed you sell a few vises yourself. I've had it in my head for the better part of a year that I want to do a driving trip to Oregon as I've never been there. I made my first visit to Seattle last year and would also like to go back as I have a cousin there. I'm trying to figure out if I could make that happen this year and if I did it would you have a good old vise to sale that would be a win-win deal. Definitely got some thinking to do on that. :)

As always, thanks for the advice and encouragement.
 

Outlawmws

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Aug 9, 2011
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39,285
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The Badlands
So my girlfriend wanted me to ask you guys, because she is an artist, and has a genuine curiosity... Do you think that there's a market for custom painted vises with designs and graphics on them, or would it be wasted effort?

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Hit, there have been people that have made them art pieces. Polished (literally) theme paint jobs, etc. The right theme, can get a premium on price. and therein lies the trick. the wrong theme ( or wrong timing) and it could be a flop..
 

drivesitfar

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Outlaw: agreed.

Hit: I remember the shiny naked Craftsmans selling for a lot more than what the colored ones do. TJ's Snap On green did well and maybe cause his painting skills are superior to most of ours. pinstripping a vise or painting somebody's race car # or car on their vise might just work. i remember a Reed 1c painted with a member's race car #3 on it that his sister painted that was awesome, but i don't have that picture handy.

Tex: PM me when you figure out if you are coming my direction and i'll see what i have to sell that you might like. i do still have a few that need a good home. you are welcome if i helped either with some information or maybe making you feel better.
 

Outlawmws

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VA, that has to be the near intact sticker and mostly complete original paint talking...

Edit: went for 675...

attachment.php


attachment.php
 

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rusty65

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Pekin,IL
Here is the photo drives is referring to. 91fd375425730817c88a8de38321b1db.jpg


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va.grouseman

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Mar 26, 2011
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4,965
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Southern-Central VA.
Originally posted by Outlawmws.

VA, that has to be the near intact sticker and mostly complete original paint talking...
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Yep, you nailed it.
 

Fretters

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Joined
Jan 25, 2014
Messages
4,217
Location
South Yorkshire, England
Fretters did an experiment putting BLO on one of his old vises after he stripped it clean to keep it from flash rusting, then he painted over it and said it worked better than primer.

The vice in question:

guimage


That's now with my BIL, for use in his workshop. That ****** was horrendous for trying to rerust as quickly as possible after coming out of the vat.
 
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drivesitfar

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Oct 23, 2013
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Location
Pacific Northwest
ALL: speaking of beauty since i like NAKED and BIG STUFF this 8 inch Peter Wright has my eye, but a bit too far for me to go to make an offer. anybody else like a big naked vice? not a bad looking homemade stand either.

i'd probably like the Reed 1c naked with BLO, but that colorful paint job with the #3 on it looks ok too.

Rusty: yep that's the Reed 1c i mentioned. THANKS
 

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gman007

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West Michigan
ALL: speaking of beauty since i like NAKED and BIG STUFF this 8 inch Peter Wright has my eye, but a bit too far for me to go to make an offer. anybody else like a big naked vice? not a bad looking homemade stand either.

Drives While personally I am not into blacksmith/leg vises, I would love to have that stand! It might not be very fancy but it very nicely done (for example just look at the clean weld job, the nice bevel job on the base, etc) and looks very sturdy. Now that is a beauty that will not hurt eyes of the beholders :D. Thanks for posting it.
 

lis2323

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Dec 25, 2016
Messages
3,234
Drives While personally I am not into blacksmith/leg vises, I would love to have that stand! It might not be very fancy but it very nicely done (for example just look at the clean weld job, the nice bevel job on the base, etc) and looks very sturdy. Now that is a beauty that will not hurt eyes of the beholders :D. Thanks for posting it.



007: lol. Your assessment would be WORD FOR WORD the same as mine:)
 

Bcom

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Nebraska
Here is the photo drives is referring to. 91fd375425730817c88a8de38321b1db.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ive seen this photo floating around the net for some time now. Someone did a real good job. I love the Reed C series and whomever painted this, did some awesome work!
 

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joe.striper

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Sep 13, 2013
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2,251
Location
agawam, ma
Got this 8.5" Prentiss and base for $200 at auction. Rev Scott will be happy to know it needs jaws...$165..KACHING!. It comes with the base, look how thick the base metal is. The vise weight 275. The base? Maybe another 300 lb.

I haven't seen one of these before in this size. I have a 7.5" swivel jaw. Cannot wait to compare them.
 

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gman007

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May 17, 2017
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West Michigan
Got this 8.5" Prentiss and base for $200 at auction. Rev Scott will be happy to know it needs jaws...$165..KACHING!. It comes with the base, look how thick the base metal is. The vise weight 275. The base? Maybe another 300 lb.

I haven't seen one of these before in this size. I have a 7.5" swivel jaw. Cannot wait to compare them.

Wow, $200 for both! Joe you ****! For goodness sake @600lb, it is like you paid for scrap metal price.
 

drivesitfar

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Oct 23, 2013
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Pacific Northwest
Bcom: that Reed 1c is a member's vise (Ritzblitz) and his sister painted that for him cause he owns or his favorite car has those colors and # on it. he used to make amazing vise handles, but I think he's moved on to bigger and better things now.

Joe: I know i'm probably still DEAD TO YOU so i don't expect you to answer my question, but i have a question about your new find. isn't that a funny place to have a hole in the base or maybe somebody that was scrapping it just needed a round piece of one inch plate and thought it wouldn't be missed there. or was there something there like a skyscraper or something fairly big?

nice find and good luck hauling that home in one piece.
 

joe.striper

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Joe: I know i'm probably still DEAD TO YOU so i don't expect you to answer my question, but i have a question about your new find. isn't that a funny place to have a hole in the base or maybe somebody that was scrapping it just needed a round piece of one inch plate and thought it wouldn't be missed there. or was there something there like a skyscraper or something fairly big?

nice find and good luck hauling that home in one piece.

Well it is lent, and isn't New Orleans celebrating the dead this Lenten season? So in honor of Lent I will answer your question.:lol_hitti

Yes the base is a scrap piece of 1" plate they welded the stand on. Yes someone needed a round plate. As far as moving it...piece of cake. I have a Wesco hydraulic hand truck with an 850 lb capacity and a lift height of 54". I will simply dismantle the vise and load it in the truck. :D
 

Citizen4

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Got this 8.5" Prentiss and base for $200 at auction. Rev Scott will be happy to know it needs jaws...$165..KACHING!. It comes with the base, look how thick the base metal is. The vise weight 275. The base? Maybe another 300 lb.

I haven't seen one of these before in this size. I have a 7.5" swivel jaw. Cannot wait to compare them.

Sweet
 

joe.striper

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agawam, ma
Originally posted by Outlawmws.

VA, that has to be the near intact sticker and mostly complete original paint talking...
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Yep, you nailed it.

I agree 100%. Great paint, Great label. I have a #2 nearly identical but the label is not nearly as nice. It may be time to list it...LOL:)
 

KMScott

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I was thinking of raising my prices on 8+ jaws Joe. They are hard to make.

On another not, I have sold more then 6,000 jaws and this is the first set broken. Guy said he was clamping on a pipe and they shattered. Just a note about Prentiss jaws, they were not very accurate back in the day and many of my Prentiss jaws need adjusting, this guy missed my comment on Prentiss jaws and just threw them on. Most Prentiss jaws are built to nominal numbers like a 1/4" deep channel and 3/4 wide but I have seen Prentiss vises that are built to a 1/64th out of tolerance, they must have adjusted the jaws at the factory since original Prentiss jaws are hard too. To guys like me that is a bunch. (.015) when you have a gap and clamp a pipe or something round that puts pressure on jaw surface's and my stuff is hard. Max fitting should be .005 on the depths. The guy is pissed and said a few words that should not have been said. OK, I got that off my chest.
 

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lis2323

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Well it is lent, and isn't New Orleans celebrating the dead this Lenten season? So in honor of Lent I will answer your question.:lol_hitti



Yes the base is a scrap piece of 1" plate they welded the stand on. Yes someone needed a round plate. As far as moving it...piece of cake. I have a Wesco hydraulic hand truck with an 850 lb capacity and a lift height of 54". I will simply dismantle the vise and load it in the truck. [emoji3]

8828451dcaf143db580263d0b9e6de86.jpg

If that base were mine, I'd be inclined to cut a radius in the 1" plate like this: removing the round cutout from existence. . (excuse crude sketch)

c6620c8eef573be44e16fe9cc4dd6ceb.jpg

And then weld/fill in the removed area with 1" steel tread plate or catwalk material.

7d9739f3017d0efa3e8f53de90076544.jpg

You would return the base to its original stability whilst making it look pretty cool. IMO of course.
 

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gman007

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I was thinking of raising my prices on 8+ jaws Joe. They are hard to make.

On another not, I have sold more then 6,000 jaws and this is the first set broken. Guy said he was clamping on a pipe and they shattered. Just a note about Prentiss jaws, they were not very accurate back in the day and many of my Prentiss jaws need adjusting, this guy missed my comment on Prentiss jaws and just threw them on. Most Prentiss jaws are built to nominal numbers like a 1/4" deep channel and 3/4 wide but I have seen Prentiss vises that are built to a 1/64th out of tolerance, they must have adjusted the jaws at the factory since original Prentiss jaws are hard too. To guys like me that is a bunch. (.015) when you have a gap and clamp a pipe or something round that puts pressure on jaw surface's and my stuff is hard. Max fitting should be .005 on the depths. The guy is pissed and said a few words that should not have been said. OK, I got that off my chest.

Dr Scott I have a Prentiss Bull Dog 524 and have always wondered why there is a gap between the insert and vise jaws (and the inserts are original OEM, see photo), so may be there is a tolerance issue like you mentioned! Is this even normal for Prentiss?

I tried to remove the jaw inserts and was able get the screws off but the inserts would not come off. I figured the rust has bonded the inserts to the jaws on ALL three inner surfaces of u shaped ([) inserts but I was able to push a piece of aluminum strip (about 0.008" thick) from one side in between the inner face of jaw inserts and the jaws all the way through to the other side. This seems odd to me and I wonder due to this gap if excessive pressure is applied to the face, would they buckle in the center and break as they are not really supported by the jaw faces?

By the way I am still trying the remove the inserts and can not believe they have fused so badly (must be on the inner side of top and bottom part of the [ inserts, as the back face has a gap) that even generous amount of kroil and tapping with hammer will not dislodge them. I guess heat might be next step.
 

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Craptain

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Apr 18, 2013
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Tampa Bay FL
Last week I bought 3 vises for $25, from an offer up ad. Didn't see them until I picked them up today. Now I got them home and started to check them out. The Desmond Stephan 3" was the one that caught my eye and was the reason for buying them. The clamp on at 1 1/2" is just going next to the others on a shelf. But the 3 1/2" Samson Jr. was unknown to me and still basically is. However!!!!! this could be the best. It appears to have been sold by Sears, around 1911 to 1920. But the only one I could find is, or appears to be iron. Mine appears to be 100% bronze, or maybe BeCu. In case it's the latter, I have not checked further. But every part scratches up Copper color. Any and all information welcome. 9194235fc1945f50ebd05837dda542ff.jpg811dab13c02d5237012ad625f6ac0141.jpg7797dfbab19981aa1984ab6f29049b68.jpg3baa83b8ec268d06394157ef4f4031e7.jpg8693b850cdb3d8eb311936429be15666.jpgd4670a9a1077899161299769cd037632.jpg

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
 

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KMScott

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007, once you get the jaws off check them to this drawing just for kicks and let's see what your numbers are. Welcome to my world.

My first attempt at removing C-Style jaws are to use a piece of bronze shaft and I punch the jaws at 45 degrees on the side and try to catch that little gap you see then the jaw will peel off on the one side first. I also had luck tapping the sides with the bronze punch and try to push the jaw out sideways. I do both sides to break the rust but not hard enough to dent the jaws if hand file soft. Go to heat at last resort because of your paint and possible softening the jaws.
 

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gman007

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007, once you get the jaws off check them to this drawing just for kicks and let's see what your numbers are. Welcome to my world.

My first attempt at removing C-Style jaws are to use a piece of bronze shaft and I punch the jaws at 45 degrees on the side and try to catch that little gap you see then the jaw will peel off on the one side first. I also had luck tapping the sides with the bronze punch and try to push the jaw out sideways. I do both sides to break the rust but not hard enough to dent the jaws if hand file soft. Go to heat at last resort because of your paint and possible softening the jaws.

Dr Scott Thank you very much for prompt response, the info and diagram, I will see what I can do.

To be honest even though my signature line is all about using hammers and bigger hammer etc., I am very hesitant when it comes to vises to force anything hard and as far as applying heat I was indeed concerned not so much about paint (I will restore this vise) but ending up softening the jaw inserts.
 

joe.striper

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agawam, ma
I was thinking of raising my prices on 8+ jaws Joe. They are hard to make.

On another not, I have sold more then 6,000 jaws and this is the first set broken. Guy said he was clamping on a pipe and they shattered. Just a note about Prentiss jaws, they were not very accurate back in the day and many of my Prentiss jaws need adjusting, this guy missed my comment on Prentiss jaws and just threw them on. Most Prentiss jaws are built to nominal numbers like a 1/4" deep channel and 3/4 wide but I have seen Prentiss vises that are built to a 1/64th out of tolerance, they must have adjusted the jaws at the factory since original Prentiss jaws are hard too. To guys like me that is a bunch. (.015) when you have a gap and clamp a pipe or something round that puts pressure on jaw surface's and my stuff is hard. Max fitting should be .005 on the depths. The guy is pissed and said a few words that should not have been said. OK, I got that off my chest.

Kevin, s**t happens. I cannot IMAGINE the pressure it took to do that.

As regards the 8.5" Jaws Trijeff has a pair you made but which he can't use...FIRE SALE!!!
 

joe.striper

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8828451dcaf143db580263d0b9e6de86.jpg

If that base were mine, I'd be inclined to cut a radius in the 1" plate like this: removing the round cutout from existence. . (excuse crude sketch)

c6620c8eef573be44e16fe9cc4dd6ceb.jpg

And then weld/fill in the removed area with 1" steel tread plate or catwalk material.

7d9739f3017d0efa3e8f53de90076544.jpg

You would return the base to its original stability whilst making it look pretty cool. IMO of course.

Thats a great idea. biggest issue for me is cutting the 1" base
 

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hitthewall79

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Did some cleaning in the garage today, and finally got everyone together, will get back to restoration as soon as soon as I get a new transfer case and transmission put into my work truck... 09aeddb90619b5af3d5c9cdcd0a751df.jpg

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KMScott

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Kevin, s**t happens. I cannot IMAGINE the pressure it took to do that.

As regards the 8.5" Jaws Trijeff has a pair you made but which he can't use...FIRE SALE!!!

Joe, in the years I have known you is that you always win, well at least 90% of the time which is a good. I need to talk to Jeff.

007, keep the heat under 600 degrees and you will not draw your jaws back any softer.
 

trijeff

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Northern Cali
Hey Kevin, don't fret, I'll be the one ordering new ones from you instead of Joe. Will give you a call to discuss.

Here's a new one delivered today ... smallest working vise I have with 3/4" jaws

2a64f823c83b6a652df00fecb2366302.jpg
 

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KMScott

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Hey Kevin, don't fret, I'll be the one ordering new ones from you instead of Joe. Will give you a call to discuss.

Here's a new one delivered today ... smallest working vise I have with 3/4" jaws

Nice 3/4 vise you picked up. Nice baby to.

Jeff, be careful dealing with Joe. He is very good at getting deals.

I remember you sending me your jaws for a pattern, confirming that they were the same as my Prentiss 58. I can barely cut the serrations, they are so big. I have only sold two sets in 5 years so there isn't to many of these vises out there.
 

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drivesitfar

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Joe: thanks for the 411 on your new huge vise. just curious when you said you weren't set up to cut the 1 inch plate yet. don't you own a oxy/acy torch cause i'd think that could do a basic cut?

TJ: can you put your 3/4 inch vise in your Prentiss 98 for a photo shoot without breaking it? does it really work and where in the world did you find it? i'm guessing a salesman sample? any name on it?
 
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