Willy Radio81
Member
Sweet garage ! Love the build gotta keep watching !I have a30x40 up north in Lake County I travel around Ohio with my Van Club so you know always looking for cool builds !
Well it's happening...my 48x60 build
- Thread starter OH_Varmntr
- Start date
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OH_Varmntr
Well-known member
Absolutely! Here it is!
Thanks Willy Radio81! I lived out that way in Cleveland Heights then further West before settling down where I am now. Had some college buddies from Ashtabula and we ran back and forth along the coast through college.
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OH_Varmntr
Well-known member
Ran into a "little" snag on my Sterling heater installation. I just spoke with a nice lady where I bought everything and she said everyone who could help is out of the office until January 2nd. 
Video of what's going on. Linky to video...
They want to use the included tube of high temp RTV silicone to seal a 5/8" gap around the exhaust pipe.
So I'll be locating and cutting a piece of galvanized steel to place over the 6-1/4" hole that will have a hole more suitable for the 5" pipe to pass through.
Video of what's going on. Linky to video...
They want to use the included tube of high temp RTV silicone to seal a 5/8" gap around the exhaust pipe.
So I'll be locating and cutting a piece of galvanized steel to place over the 6-1/4" hole that will have a hole more suitable for the 5" pipe to pass through.
jeepinerdeep
Well-known member
Ran into a "little" snag on my Sterling heater installation. I just spoke with a nice lady where I bought everything and she said everyone who could help is out of the office until January 2nd.
Video of what's going on. Linky to video...
They want to use the included tube of high temp RTV silicone to seal a 5/8" gap around the exhaust pipe.
So I'll be locating and cutting a piece of galvanized steel to place over the 6-1/4" hole that will have a hole more suitable for the 5" pipe to pass through.
Yeah, that would be some real silicone artistry if you can bridge a 5/8 gap.
***** for sure. I didn't do concentric, I'm using an 8" stainless flue stack (existing), and inside air for combustion. I don't do any woodwork, but if I did I would surely be using separated combustion.
OP
OH_Varmntr
Well-known member
I don't do much woodworking that generates a lot of sawdust, I try to stick with hand-tools only. I've been collecting some vintage tools that I use.
Still no reply about a gap solution, so I located a piece of 1/8" thick 10"x10" hot rolled that I'll knock out with my plasma cutter and make do.
I initially purchased black pipe for my gas supply for the heater, but I've since decided to switch to Type L soft copper tubing after talking it over with a coworker who worked in HVAC for many years. Since I'm enclosing the wall cavities, I didn't really want any enclosed connections that could leak and fill a wall up with propane. That doesn't sound like something I want to experience, ever.
So my coworker is lending me his flaring and bending kits, and I had the Mrs. pick up everything I need to make a nice 1-piece gas line.
Unfortunately, I've been down and out with a case of laryngitis and I've been trying to lay low and rest up. Sunday or Monday hopefully I'll get it finished up so I can get the propane company scheduled to come out.
Still no reply about a gap solution, so I located a piece of 1/8" thick 10"x10" hot rolled that I'll knock out with my plasma cutter and make do.
I initially purchased black pipe for my gas supply for the heater, but I've since decided to switch to Type L soft copper tubing after talking it over with a coworker who worked in HVAC for many years. Since I'm enclosing the wall cavities, I didn't really want any enclosed connections that could leak and fill a wall up with propane. That doesn't sound like something I want to experience, ever.
So my coworker is lending me his flaring and bending kits, and I had the Mrs. pick up everything I need to make a nice 1-piece gas line.
Unfortunately, I've been down and out with a case of laryngitis and I've been trying to lay low and rest up. Sunday or Monday hopefully I'll get it finished up so I can get the propane company scheduled to come out.
OP
OH_Varmntr
Well-known member
tomralph
Well-known member
What sensor are you using for temp/humidity monitoring?
buildyourown
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2010
- Messages
- 185
Check your code on that soft copper. No experience with propane but with NG its a no go. I know its common in RVs and boats but gas on a building has to be black or CSST
cedricviii
Member
Impressive build. I'm saving this for a reference.
OP
OH_Varmntr
Well-known member
Wpauley
Member
Very nice build. I looked a Menards when shopping for my building and when they showed me a cork board with 100 business cards on it and said pick a builder, we cannot recommend any builder, I ran. I ended up between Cleary and Morton, Morton was a bit more than cleary, but I went with them anyway. I think they put up a better building. better snow loads and a warranty. They had it up in less than 10 days with several days of high wind that they could not work in, and I found nothing more than 1/2 inch off in 80 feet. It will take me several years to get it all completed inside. You have a great shop there and hope you have many years ahead to enjoy it. Bill
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OH_Varmntr
Well-known member
The sprayfoam ended up being $1.23 per square foot per inch of thickness.
OP
OH_Varmntr
Well-known member
Fun data to look at...for me atleast 
My heater cycled 23 times in a 12 hour period. Granted, this was with a cold shop, the starting interior temps were 24 degrees, and that included my 7000 pound tractor, a 2500 pound stack of steel siding for my interior walls and all the lumber and other gear in there. Not to mention the fact that the concrete was cold enough to freeze water as it dropped onto it. The ballast liquid in my tires caused my tires to sweat heavily as the tire and ballast liquid temps began to slowly rise to match the air temp of the shop. It wasn't until tonight when I went out there that the very bottoms of the tires were the only places left that had any condensation, and my concrete was warm enough that snow would remain in liquid state as it melted from my boots.
So there's a lot of mass that is ever so slowly heating up, and considering the exterior walls only have an insulating value of around R-7 until I finish with insulating, I'm pretty pleased. I could increase the thermostat set-point to increase the temperature difference between the air and the objects to increase the rate of heat transfer, but I'm in no hurry really. It's just nice to be out there in jeans and a long sleeve t-shirt. My wife came out and commented on how nice the shop felt tonight.
I did begin installing the interior wall girts so I'll be able to begin filling the wall cavities with fiberglass insulation batts. I really need to get the west wall completed so I can complete the conduit and wiring for my lighting and heater to replace the temporary cables I have strung around.
HeaterCycles
My heater cycled 23 times in a 12 hour period. Granted, this was with a cold shop, the starting interior temps were 24 degrees, and that included my 7000 pound tractor, a 2500 pound stack of steel siding for my interior walls and all the lumber and other gear in there. Not to mention the fact that the concrete was cold enough to freeze water as it dropped onto it. The ballast liquid in my tires caused my tires to sweat heavily as the tire and ballast liquid temps began to slowly rise to match the air temp of the shop. It wasn't until tonight when I went out there that the very bottoms of the tires were the only places left that had any condensation, and my concrete was warm enough that snow would remain in liquid state as it melted from my boots.
So there's a lot of mass that is ever so slowly heating up, and considering the exterior walls only have an insulating value of around R-7 until I finish with insulating, I'm pretty pleased. I could increase the thermostat set-point to increase the temperature difference between the air and the objects to increase the rate of heat transfer, but I'm in no hurry really. It's just nice to be out there in jeans and a long sleeve t-shirt. My wife came out and commented on how nice the shop felt tonight.
I did begin installing the interior wall girts so I'll be able to begin filling the wall cavities with fiberglass insulation batts. I really need to get the west wall completed so I can complete the conduit and wiring for my lighting and heater to replace the temporary cables I have strung around.
HeaterCycles
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OH_Varmntr
Well-known member
Well not much good news as of late. The stomach bugs have been through the house as all 3 of us have been sick over the past week. To finish out the week of hell, my grandpa passed away.
So progress has been slow but I'll update where I'm at. I was able to get my ceiling fans installed. Each fan came with its own controller, but I wanted all 3 fans to be on the same switch/speed controller so I picked up a 5 amp dial switch. Each fan is rated at 60 watts so 5 amps is plenty.
Untitled
We went and got 39 rolls of R-19 23" wide rolls of unfaced fiberglass to fill the wall cavities, then laying steel over it.
Untitled
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Found a few truck seats along the road for free. Should make for some nice shop seats when I get around to building caster bases for them. Another mans trash...
Untitled
And I picked up a 16x12x4 enclosure for my lighting contactor/junction box. The local Kendall Electric had one for $43.
Untitled
As of now, my main goal is to get the conduit ran to tie the lights and fans into the contactor box and distribution panel.
So progress has been slow but I'll update where I'm at. I was able to get my ceiling fans installed. Each fan came with its own controller, but I wanted all 3 fans to be on the same switch/speed controller so I picked up a 5 amp dial switch. Each fan is rated at 60 watts so 5 amps is plenty.
UntitledWe went and got 39 rolls of R-19 23" wide rolls of unfaced fiberglass to fill the wall cavities, then laying steel over it.
Untitled
UntitledFound a few truck seats along the road for free. Should make for some nice shop seats when I get around to building caster bases for them. Another mans trash...
UntitledAnd I picked up a 16x12x4 enclosure for my lighting contactor/junction box. The local Kendall Electric had one for $43.
UntitledAs of now, my main goal is to get the conduit ran to tie the lights and fans into the contactor box and distribution panel.
OP
OH_Varmntr
Well-known member
Struggled with the scissor lift tonight not wanting to run in reverse. Nearly ran it into my newly sided wall. It has had this intermittent issue since I've had it at the shop but tonight it wouldn't come out of it.
I had a hunch that it was a hydraulic issue and found this piece of metal flake had seized the spool of the forward/reverse valve.
Untitled
I had a hunch that it was a hydraulic issue and found this piece of metal flake had seized the spool of the forward/reverse valve.
UntitledBoilermakerFan
Well-known member
That's not good... Can you shine a light into the reservoir to see if there are any other pieces? It could be an odd piece, but usually, if there is one, there are more.
OP
OH_Varmntr
Well-known member
Yeah the oil is so dark I can’t see into the reservoir. I need to order filters and perform a full service on it.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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OH_Varmntr
Well-known member
Light night was very productive after a 13 hour day at work.
My lighting contactor is in and my lights are hooked up. I still need to source a few illuminated pushbutton switches so I can locate them in a dark shop. Also pulled wire to my ceiling fans, installed the rotary knob for the speed control in the enclosure and got them running. I ordered some tag ties to tidy up the wiring and label each circuit throughout each junction box for future troubleshooting. Those should be here today.
Untitled
My lights are split with two circuits. I was initially going to run them off 240v power but then I'd have to find a 240v/120v control transformer to fire the latch/unlatch coils of the contactor. Being as that would introduce one more mode of failure (although it would probably never go bad), I'll just leave them 120v and jump off the line side of the contactor to fire the coil with.
Anyways, I have 4 rows of 5 lights, so the outer two rows are on a different breaker than my inside two. I'm going to install a switch between the contactor and the lights that allows me to select which lights will be on that way I don't have to run all 2200 watts of lights if not needed. Not sure if you can tell but my fans are running finally!
Untitled
My lighting contactor is in and my lights are hooked up. I still need to source a few illuminated pushbutton switches so I can locate them in a dark shop. Also pulled wire to my ceiling fans, installed the rotary knob for the speed control in the enclosure and got them running. I ordered some tag ties to tidy up the wiring and label each circuit throughout each junction box for future troubleshooting. Those should be here today.
UntitledMy lights are split with two circuits. I was initially going to run them off 240v power but then I'd have to find a 240v/120v control transformer to fire the latch/unlatch coils of the contactor. Being as that would introduce one more mode of failure (although it would probably never go bad), I'll just leave them 120v and jump off the line side of the contactor to fire the coil with.
Anyways, I have 4 rows of 5 lights, so the outer two rows are on a different breaker than my inside two. I'm going to install a switch between the contactor and the lights that allows me to select which lights will be on that way I don't have to run all 2200 watts of lights if not needed. Not sure if you can tell but my fans are running finally!
Untitledstamanti
Well-known member
Looking good.
slodat
ALLIANCE MEMBER
You're going to love the lighting setup! Very nice work!
OP
OH_Varmntr
Well-known member
Thanks you guys!
Slodat, you're the reason I have my lighting controls set up the way I do. I can't take any credit for it at all, but thank you! My illuminated momentary pushbuttons came in the mail today. Thought it would look nice to have a white light to guide me to each switch when I enter a dark shop.
Slodat, you're the reason I have my lighting controls set up the way I do. I can't take any credit for it at all, but thank you! My illuminated momentary pushbuttons came in the mail today. Thought it would look nice to have a white light to guide me to each switch when I enter a dark shop.
OP
OH_Varmntr
Well-known member
I got tired of the scissor lift leaving oil puddles wherever it has sat, so I ordered a filter and a seal kit for the right front hydraulic drive motor. They are White Hydraulics Series 520 Rotor Stator motors.
Took the wheel off and found the seal had popped out of the bore. Removed the drive motor and tearing it down layer by layer, the damage got worse and worse. I found the 1" wide inboard needle roller bearing had disintegrated and had sent metal chips throughout the motor. Both stock bearings are Torringtons, the outer being a 1/2" wide B-308 and the inner is a 1" wide B-3016. Amazon has them, of all places, available from Koyo. $30 should get me going again. The fun never ends.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/22Zz3fX]
https://flic.kr/p/22Zz3fX
Took the wheel off and found the seal had popped out of the bore. Removed the drive motor and tearing it down layer by layer, the damage got worse and worse. I found the 1" wide inboard needle roller bearing had disintegrated and had sent metal chips throughout the motor. Both stock bearings are Torringtons, the outer being a 1/2" wide B-308 and the inner is a 1" wide B-3016. Amazon has them, of all places, available from Koyo. $30 should get me going again. The fun never ends.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/22Zz3fX]
https://flic.kr/p/22Zz3fXBoilermakerFan
Well-known member
Oh man, that is a LOT of damage! I'm really surprised you didn't have more issues with it like not moving or slipping like crazy. You absolutely must drain and clean your reservoir out or you will end up losing your pump, valves, or other motor.
If you get stuck with the rebuild, shoot me a PM. The company I work for is a Danfoss/White motor distributor and I'm pretty sure we can repair/rebuild the White motors in our Tulsa repair center now. Worst case, I can probably get you a copy of the service manual so you have a little better documentation.
If you get stuck with the rebuild, shoot me a PM. The company I work for is a Danfoss/White motor distributor and I'm pretty sure we can repair/rebuild the White motors in our Tulsa repair center now. Worst case, I can probably get you a copy of the service manual so you have a little better documentation.
OP
OH_Varmntr
Well-known member
Awesome, thanks for the offer! The seal kit I bought surprised me with having everything needed for a rebuild. The service instructions I found here seem to be pretty thorough.
I haven't pulled the pickup screen from the tank yet to see how much it has caught, but I'm thinking this hasn't been like this very long or, like you mentioned, I would have thought more damage would have been done.
No issues with that wheel locking up either, which totally surprised me now that I know what the inside of this looked like.
I haven't pulled the pickup screen from the tank yet to see how much it has caught, but I'm thinking this hasn't been like this very long or, like you mentioned, I would have thought more damage would have been done.
No issues with that wheel locking up either, which totally surprised me now that I know what the inside of this looked like.
Fun data to look at...for me atleast
My heater cycled 23 times in a 12 hour period. Granted, this was with a cold shop, the starting interior temps were 24 degrees, and that included my 7000 pound tractor, a 2500 pound stack of steel siding for my interior walls and all the lumber and other gear in there. Not to mention the fact that the concrete was cold enough to freeze water as it dropped onto it. The ballast liquid in my tires caused my tires to sweat heavily as the tire and ballast liquid temps began to slowly rise to match the air temp of the shop. It wasn't until tonight when I went out there that the very bottoms of the tires were the only places left that had any condensation, and my concrete was warm enough that snow would remain in liquid state as it melted from my boots.
So there's a lot of mass that is ever so slowly heating up, and considering the exterior walls only have an insulating value of around R-7 until I finish with insulating, I'm pretty pleased. I could increase the thermostat set-point to increase the temperature difference between the air and the objects to increase the rate of heat transfer, but I'm in no hurry really. It's just nice to be out there in jeans and a long sleeve t-shirt. My wife came out and commented on how nice the shop felt tonight.
I did begin installing the interior wall girts so I'll be able to begin filling the wall cavities with fiberglass insulation batts. I really need to get the west wall completed so I can complete the conduit and wiring for my lighting and heater to replace the temporary cables I have strung around.
Great Build! is this a program you use to get the data read out for the run times?
OP
OH_Varmntr
Well-known member
That was the included software with the temp data logger I purchased from amazon. To get the run times I just measured the time between temperature swings.
Check out post number 131 in this thread for the link for the sensor I bought from amazon.
You can export the data to excel but for some reason excel doesn’t like the data and won’t let me populate a graph with it so I just use the graphing data from the sensors software.
Check out post number 131 in this thread for the link for the sensor I bought from amazon.
You can export the data to excel but for some reason excel doesn’t like the data and won’t let me populate a graph with it so I just use the graphing data from the sensors software.
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Must have missed that post. Thanks
BoilermakerFan
Well-known member
No problem. Dirt and heat are the two main causes of failure in hydraulic components. Dark oil is a sign of both.
OP
OH_Varmntr
Well-known member
Well the rotor housing took a bit of damage from the metal pieces floating around. It's not near as hard at the rotor or the rollers. I removed the embedded pieces and cleaned up the surfaces. Should be good as long as I'm able to get all the pieces flushed out of it. It's not ideal, but better than throwing another $250 at it.
https://flic.kr/p/24vzDMr
https://flic.kr/p/24vzDMrBoilermakerFan
Well-known member
The only bad part about not replacing it is now it may very well start shedding metal and putting you back into a failure...
OP
OH_Varmntr
Well-known member
It may, but I'm riding on the odds that it may not.
The pump pickup screen was clean, due to the filter being on the return side of the things. Flushing everything out and putting it all back together, we will see how it goes.
Filter guts...
[url=https://flic.kr/p/GrbqVQ]
https://flic.kr/p/GrbqVQ
The pump pickup screen was clean, due to the filter being on the return side of the things. Flushing everything out and putting it all back together, we will see how it goes.
Filter guts...
[url=https://flic.kr/p/GrbqVQ]
https://flic.kr/p/GrbqVQBoilermakerFan
Well-known member
Well, that's good news that the inlet screen was still in place so that would block any big pieces from getting into the pump. I think you were fortunate that so much of the debris stayed in the motor too.
OP
OH_Varmntr
Well-known member
Thank you for tagging along! It’s a shop build thread but I guess this sort of thing is all part of it.
Hopefully I’ll get back to my regular scheduled work on the shop soon.
Boiler, yes I think I dodged a huge bullet here. Time will tell.
OP
OH_Varmntr
Well-known member
So another sidestep from the real work to be done. I bought this Sherwood S-8910 receiver last year on Craigslist for $45 and it had an issue with the speaker protection relay dropping out. I only initially had an issue with it and it's been intermittent since.
I've been running twin 4 ohm speakers in series and found a decent set of 200 watt 3 way speakers on CL for $60 that were 8 ohms each. With the ability to push some higher loads, the speaker protection relay problem has become more apparent now.
Being 40+ years old, the output biasing variable resistors are no longer holding their settings, so one channel ends up going out of spec and being over-driven, thus enabling the protection circuit. So out with the old and in with the new. The old resistors were single turn 300 ohm units, and the new ones are 25 turn 500 ohm units and I'm able to dial in the 12mV bias setpoint and hold it within a tenth of a mV. The output transistors also needed removed to clean the insulating washers and have some new thermal compound applied so I did that as well.
She's sounding pretty good with no more speaker protection problems. There is, however, a steady hum, which I'm attributing to the same crusty 40+ year old electrolytic capacitors and some transistors that probably need replaced. If it lasts this year, I'll plan on recapping and replacing transistors next winter as a project. For now, I can easily drive them to a level that's uncomfortable to the ears anywhere in the shop, which is just right.
Untitled
VR601a and b will be replaced.
Untitled
Installed and warming up to set the bias. Once everything was set, I cleaned up the oversmear of thermal paste.
Untitled
Aaaaaaand now I can't hear. Makes for a much more productive work environment around here.
Untitled
I've been running twin 4 ohm speakers in series and found a decent set of 200 watt 3 way speakers on CL for $60 that were 8 ohms each. With the ability to push some higher loads, the speaker protection relay problem has become more apparent now.
Being 40+ years old, the output biasing variable resistors are no longer holding their settings, so one channel ends up going out of spec and being over-driven, thus enabling the protection circuit. So out with the old and in with the new. The old resistors were single turn 300 ohm units, and the new ones are 25 turn 500 ohm units and I'm able to dial in the 12mV bias setpoint and hold it within a tenth of a mV. The output transistors also needed removed to clean the insulating washers and have some new thermal compound applied so I did that as well.
She's sounding pretty good with no more speaker protection problems. There is, however, a steady hum, which I'm attributing to the same crusty 40+ year old electrolytic capacitors and some transistors that probably need replaced. If it lasts this year, I'll plan on recapping and replacing transistors next winter as a project. For now, I can easily drive them to a level that's uncomfortable to the ears anywhere in the shop, which is just right.
UntitledVR601a and b will be replaced.
UntitledInstalled and warming up to set the bias. Once everything was set, I cleaned up the oversmear of thermal paste.
UntitledAaaaaaand now I can't hear. Makes for a much more productive work environment around here.
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