Vintage Grinder Sticker Reproduction

[exmaxima1]

Matt,
Per my PM to you, here is the info for my grinder plate and a couple pics of the "before" condition. Can't wait to get my replacement plate and show off the "after" pics. Please let me know if you need anything else. My mailing address is in the PM. Thanks.
Craftsman 1/2 HP, Model #397.19340, S/N 827800168

LOL

 

[mattblast]

That label is a mess. I can make you a replacement it just will take a month or two as I have lots of other projects going on. Can’t wait to see the restoration compete.

 

[RubiconJK]

That label is a mess. I can make you a replacement it just will take a month or two as I have lots of other projects going on. Can’t wait to see the restoration compete.

Yes it is! I found it a couple days ago and for as bad as it looks, was surprised to hear it run so smoothly. Thanks again Matt.

 

[lafester]

Any thoughts on a gold plate?
Found the image in a search, not sure who made it.

Example from owwm:

Grinder is in transit but I will post a before pic when it arrives. Its going to need a full teardown and paint.

That label is a mess. I can make you a replacement it just will take a month or two as I have lots of other projects going on. Can’t wait to see the restoration compete.

Ok well here is a zoom in for a taste.

 

[mattblast]

Up until now I’ve been using the equipment at work to print labels. That was hard because it’s busy at work and I didn’t have a lot of free time to make labels. Besides, our printer is now broken and we’ve been waiting for a part from Japan for over a month.

The Mimaki printer at work uses solvent based ink. It is designed to print on vinyl and though a white and silver ink are available, the white isn’t opaque and the silver wipes off. Colors are printed by combining he 4 primary colors of cyan magenta yellow and black.

So I decided to buy my own printer. It was a big investment and so I’m going to have to start charging for labels. But now I can do a much wider variety of labels and on vinyl or non-vinyl media.

The new printer is a Gerber Edge 2. The white is opaque. The silver is like a mirror. It doesn’t use ink so doesn’t clog. It uses a thermal resin transfer ribbon. It prints spot colors, not CMYK so colors are always solid not made up of various colored dots.

It prints on 15” wide sprocketed material. So far I have material in white and metallic and ribbons in black and red. The material cost is a lot higher than on the Mimaki which ran about $0.10-$0.40/sqft for ink (based on print coverage and density). On the gerber the ribbon runs about $0.65/sqft per color used (even for unprinted areas) and its a lot more labor intensive process to print.

Here is the new setup. I just got the final parts needed to start printing and I’m ready to print a batch of labels this weekend.



I’ve had a few requests for labels in the last couple months. Please PM me or post a reply to this topic and I’ll be happy to make you a label.

And if you have ideas for other labels I can start printing then let me know. It’s not just limited to labels. I can also make magnets.

 

[lafester]

Up until now I’ve been using the equipment at work to print labels. That was hard because it’s busy at work and I didn’t have a lot of free time to make labels. Besides, our printer is now broken and we’ve been waiting for a part from Japan for over a month.

The Mimaki printer at work uses solvent based ink. It is designed to print on vinyl and though a white and silver ink are available, the white isn’t opaque and the silver wipes off. Colors are printed by combining he 4 primary colors of cyan magenta yellow and black.

So I decided to buy my own printer. It was a big investment and so I’m going to have to start charging for labels. But now I can do a much wider variety of labels and on vinyl or non-vinyl media.

The new printer is a Gerber Edge 2. The white is opaque. The silver is like a mirror. It doesn’t use ink so doesn’t clog. It uses a thermal resin transfer ribbon. It prints spot colors, not CMYK so colors are always solid not made up of various colored dots.

It prints on 15” wide sprocketed material. So far I have material in white and metallic and ribbons in black and red. The material cost is a lot higher than on the Mimaki which ran about $0.10-$0.40/sqft for ink (based on print coverage and density). On the gerber the ribbon runs about $0.65/sqft per color used (even for unprinted areas) and its a lot more labor intensive process to print.

Here is the new setup. I just got the final parts needed to start printing and I’m ready to print a batch of labels this weekend.

I think $20/label is fair. It helps me pay off the equipment and as more comes in I can start to build a library of other colors (just red and black for now).

I’ve had a few requests for labels in the last couple months. Please PM me or post a reply to this topic and I’ll be happy to make you a label.

And if you have ideas for other labels I can start printing to help pay this off then let me know. It’s not just limited to labels. I can also make magnets.

can you make a gold plate like I posted above?

Thanks

 

[mattblast]

can you make a gold plate like I posted above?

Thanks

I can print on gold material so it looks the same but it will be a sticker not an aluminum plate.

 

[lafester]

I can print on gold material so it looks the same but it will be a sticker not an aluminum plate.

cool. I suppose sticking one on the back of the og plate might work. How think are the stickers?

 

[mattblast]

cool. I suppose sticking one on the back of the og plate might work. How think are the stickers?

Stickers are thin. Even with lamination it is less than 10 mil (0.010”)

 

[mattblast]

Here’s the first batch of labels with the new machine. It’s the same material and lamination as before. Just using a resin ribbon printer. Took a few tries to get the force setting right on the cutter. Unlike every other cutter I’ve used, this one lets you set force in ounces. Most other cutters use grams.



You can see it’s on punched material which makes it easier to align the cut job. I’ll send these out tomorrow for everyone who requested one.

 

[RubiconJK]

I received my label from Matt and it is awesome! Posted an "after" pic next to the before in this post.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=7149444&postcount=160

 

[lafester]

Those look great! I found a plate I can live with but will keep this in mind if I need it.
Look forward to seeing how a metallic sticker turns out for the models with plates.

 

[pikapp]

Matt,
I been reading along and see you guys concentrating on Craftsman blocks, any chance you’d branch out into Sioux? I’m gonna redo mine after I finish a couple Wilton bullets.


Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[BlueHeart]

Matt,
I been reading along and see you guys concentrating on Craftsman blocks, any chance you’d branch out into Sioux? I’m gonna redo mine after I finish a couple Wilton bullets.


Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app

Great post! I have the same question, different model.

 

[mattblast]

these etched brass labels can be made but require a different process that I don't have the equipment for (yet). They are chemically etched. It can be as simple as using a resist material and a 9v battery, or they make professional electro chemical etching units that can run several hundred dollars.

I'm happy to make any labels, but for now only adhesive ones in vinyl as that is the equipment I have.

 

[compunaut]

Great work, Matt!
I've got 2 Craftsman blocks (both 1/2HP), but they're currently low on my restoration priority list. Someday, tho, you'll be getting a request from me for labels

 

[Rickster55]

Great work mattblast! I don't need a label (or at least not yet) but I'm just scrolling in awe of your work!

 

[cmelville42]

Hi. I recently acquired this old Baldor for next to nothing. It is missing the nameplate so I can't 100% identify it. It has a 5/8" arbor and spins 3600, so all indications are 7", perhaps a 7307. Any insight is appreciated.

I am in the middle of rebuilding it, it's blasted and painted with new cap and bearings, I just need to reassemble.

Mattblast, if you have any more of the Baldor sticker sets please let me know. Also, when you ordered a new nameplate from Baldor, what information did they require?

Thanks.

 

[cmelville42]

I finished the rebuild (see previous post). Here are the "after" pictures.

Total cost: $153

Grinder (not working) $20
New capacitor: $6
New bearings: $10
Sandblast and powder coat: $100
NEMA 6-15 250V plug: $12
New button head bolts: $5

The powder coat should last a while.

I converted it to 220V, and since I had extra 12/3 SOOW I replaced the cord too. A few hours of love, and it purrs. It just needs some labels (hoping to get some from mattblast) and a nameplate. I'm still not sure if this is a 7307 or another model Baldor. Also, I haven't seen that mitre slot tool rest on any other Baldor grinders of this ilk. Is it OEM or aftermarket? It is a high quality casting.

Chris

 

[mattblast]

I finished the rebuild (see previous post). Here are the "after" pictures.

Total cost: $153

Grinder (not working) $20
New capacitor: $6
New bearings: $10
Sandblast and powder coat: $100
NEMA 6-15 250V plug: $12
New button head bolts: $5

The powder coat should last a while.

I converted it to 220V, and since I had extra 12/3 SOOW I replaced the cord too. A few hours of love, and it purrs. It just needs some labels (hoping to get some from mattblast) and a nameplate. I'm still not sure if this is a 7307 or another model Baldor. Also, I haven't seen that mitre slot tool rest on any other Baldor grinders of this ilk. Is it OEM or aftermarket? It is a high quality casting.

Chris

Nice job. I have an extra label I can send to you. Just PM me your address. (it was one of the misprints from Baldor that they let me keep.)

 

[Dogwoodfarms]

For the metal plate labels. I have watched some restore videos and they print on a clear sheet that sticks to a cut out, thin metal backing, that then is applied to the object. Is this something you could do? Printing on a clear backing?

 

[mattblast]

For the metal plate labels. I have watched some restore videos and they print on a clear sheet that sticks to a cut out, thin metal backing, that then is applied to the object. Is this something you could do? Printing on a clear backing?

Sure. I could print on clear for you if you can get me a photo of the layout.

You can also try yourself with acid etching. A bit easier than electro etching. Here’s a good video on the process. https://youtu.be/7Op6H0C18tM

 

[Dogwoodfarms]

Sure. I could print on clear for you if you can get me a photo of the layout.

You can also try yourself with acid etching. A bit easier than electro etching. Here’s a good video on the process. https://youtu.be/7Op6H0C18tM

He did this on brass. Does this only work on brass or can it be done on a "silver" colored metal as well?

 

[mattblast]

Made a new batch of labels today for a Baldor 8100WD restoration. This grinder was in rough shape and needed a bit more work than normal (snapped roll pins on shaft, plus aluminum base was welded to the stator which had to be ground and filled).

Here’s the new batch I made for the eye shields. Made with gold material with black printing. The other labels I had already made with my last Baldor restoration.



And here’s the original.



Mine has is an identical copy but with a heavy duty lamination that gives it a more textured surface. There is also a very small mistake I made that no one will ever notice.


And here’s the before and after shots

 

[Dogwoodfarms]

Mistake being the trademark symbol under the UL? Not noticeable, only looked for it because you said there was something off.

 

[EOC_Jason]

Mine has is an identical copy but with a heavy duty lamination that gives it a more textured surface. There is also a very small mistake I made that no one will ever notice.

- Registered Trademark Missing By UL Logo
- Horizontal Line Above BALDOR Missing
- Original has FT. SM1TH (1 instead of I)

 

[mattblast]

- Registered Trademark Missing By UL Logo
- Horizontal Line Above BALDOR Missing
- Original has FT. SM1TH (1 instead of I)

Wow, good eye. I was thinking the Registered Trademark (it happens to be there but is black on black so not visible)

Turns out the "1" is on original, not on mine (not sure if that is an optical illusion or really a 1, but it sure looks like 1.

The line is missing and I didn't even realize that! I'll add it on my drawing for the next batch.

 

[Dogwoodfarms]

Wow, good eye. I was thinking the Registered Trademark (it happens to be there but is black on black so not visible)

Turns out the "1" is on original, not on mine (not sure if that is an optical illusion or really a 1, but it sure looks like 1.

The line is missing and I didn't even realize that! I'll add it on my drawing for the next batch.

Very nice. I assumed there was only one thing off and quit looking after that. Still is an amazing looking sticker though.

 

[EOC_Jason]

LOL... I used to do a bunch of those puzzles where it was 'find what's different between the two pictures'...

 

[pikapp]

Really amazing work or both the labels and the grinder matt. Craftsmanship.

 

[Tano]

Made a new batch of labels today for a Baldor 8100WD restoration. This grinder was in rough shape and needed a bit more work than normal (snapped roll pins on shaft, plus aluminum base was welded to the stator which had to be ground and filled).

Here’s the new batch I made for the eye shields. Made with gold material with black printing. The other labels I had already made with my last Baldor restoration.



And here’s the original.



Mine has is an identical copy but with a heavy duty lamination that gives it a more textured surface. There is also a very small mistake I made that no one will ever notice.


And here’s the before and after shots

That is really impressive work and makes a big difference on a restored machine.

 

[collegeboy]

Amazing work, I will be keeping you in mind for my needed stickers

 

[garymtx]

Mattblast, Thanks for this, it gives me hope and encouragement to complete my own!! I am in the process of restoring a Baldor 762 with lighted eye shields. Bought at auction in running condition for $40 on a factory stand. I have installed new bearings (just as a precaution) and new L.E.D. bulbs. Getting ready to disassemble for the complete restoration. Can you please tell me who, or what department to contact at Baldor to get a replacement nameplate? Thanks in advance!

 

[mattblast]

Can you please tell me who, or what department to contact at Baldor to get a replacement nameplate? Thanks in advance!

I purchased tag from MRO supply. You need to call them up to order it and it runs about $50. You can find them online.

You have to be very specific when ordering the label or it will not be what you expect.

You need to request that they make the label using the NP3118 blank (if they use the NP0234 the factory will scratch out the UL symbol!).

Also, it is customary that the order number be shown as the Cat No of the label, but you can request that the original cat no be shown (8107W in my case).


(Default cat no on first label and lots of data is wrong)



(UL scratched out intentionally on second and cat no still wrong)

So it took 3 tries and a call to the factory but I got a good label and they let me keep the defects. MRO supply was good to work with but they have to drop ship these from Baldor’s Arkansas factory. Each label took about a week to get.
I recommend sending them an email with a photo of the label and an exact list of what data should be used in each field.

The label comes with 2 drive screws.

 

[mattblast]

Yesterday I got a good deal on a Porter Cable 505 at an estate sale and made some new labels for it.

Original labels


And newly installed labels




For now I didn’t redo the nameplate but may end up doing so later.

 

[blminca]

Awesome work. Ever thought about making Baldor labels, the ones on aluminum?

 

[tommyp]

Looking for a label for a 397.19581. I think I sent you a PM but not sure. Let me know if you are still making them. Thanks!

 

[BFBOB]

For the metal plate labels. I have watched some restore videos and they print on a clear sheet that sticks to a cut out, thin metal backing, that then is applied to the object. Is this something you could do? Printing on a clear backing?

Yes. I've done it - color laser printer, print a reversed image on clear film made for that purpose, glue it to the metal tag image side down. Choice of glue up to you. I've mostly used spray adhesive, but it's not quite water-clear. A fairly thin clear epoxy would probably be the best, using a big blob in the center, let it flow out and spill out the edges as you slowlly press the label down. I'm going to try that on my next project.

 

[Fred Knox]

I just purchased an old Baldor 1/3 HP grinder off of CL and set about restoring it. I attached a few before and after pictures. It runs perfectly now and so I decided to restore the exterior as well. It has two decals on it that I did not want to disturb. Perhaps someone can help me with repos of them. The first one is red, white and black and looks like a letter “N” and a letter “I”. Does anyone know what that stands for? The second one on the back, only has a corner remaining (see picture), so I do not know for sure any more than what you see. Any ideas of what these decals are and/or how to reproduce them would be greatly appreciated. Many Thanks.

 

[mattblast]

It has two decals on it that I did not want to disturb. Perhaps someone can help me with repos of them.

The label on the top is not a Baldor label. Probably the old owner put it on. Probably the logo of the old owner. The label in the back is something about using a properly grounded outlet. If you can find a photo of what it looks like I can make one.