VISE REPAIR 101 all vise repairs, lubricants, sources for parts and the tricks to fix

[FJ 432]

Sorry, I don't have any photos here but check post #52 in this thread (crappy photos)

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=377463&highlight=tool+polisher&page=3

 

[drivesitfar]

FJ: I love a NAKED vise and especially a baby bullet on it's power arm. pics i copied and pasted from that Polisher's thread you posted until you can get us some better ones.

Well done!

ALL: looks like i'm going to be taking the grey primer off my baby bullet and putting on some BLO soon. do I dare cook on the BLO in the stove in our kitchen? probably not, but I don't have room for even a little smoker in my garage.

 

[Shiftless]

Drives:
Thanks for posting those pics.

I bought a baby on a power arm that somebody else painted. Looks to be a likely candidate for a cosmetic overhaul. That’s why I asked about plating.

 

[FJ 432]

Drives:
Thanks for posting those pics.

I bought a baby on a power arm that somebody else painted. Looks to be a likely candidate for a cosmetic overhaul. That’s why I asked about plating.

That's a nice set up. I use my polished one at least once a week in my basement workshop. Polishing is definitely a bit over the top but I like the results.

 

[Shiftless]

Anybody have suggestions for solving this problem?

Last month I paid just $40 for an Athol 614. It was stuck and on all the surfaces there was rust and the remnants of burned red paint.

A combination of oven cleaner and pressure washing only removed about 1/4 of the paint globs. I had to resort to a knotted wire wheel cup to get it clean and prepped for paint.

The problem is that the wire wheel didn’t clean the tiny crevasses between the lettering as you see in the pictures here.

I could just let it slide, but it’s challenging to practice on lesser vises to build knowledge, skills, and tools to tackle unique problems.

Here are 2 pics showing the problem. Most of the crud is off but you can see bits between the letters.
(I doubt that my dentist would let me use his high speed tooth grinder) I have a Dremel tool. All of my flat grinding stones are way too big.

 

[Ststephen7]

Anybody have suggestions for solving this problem?

Last month I paid just $40 for an Athol 614. It was stuck and on all the surfaces there was rust and the remnants of burned red paint.

A combination of oven cleaner and pressure washing only removed about 1/4 of the paint globs. I had to resort to a knotted wire wheel cup to get it clean and prepped for paint.

The problem is that the wire wheel didn’t clean the tiny crevasses between the lettering as you see in the pictures here.

I could just let it slide, but it’s challenging to practice on lesser vises to build knowledge, skills, and tools to tackle unique problems.

Here are 2 pics showing the problem. Most of the crud is off but you can see bits between the letters.
(I doubt that my dentist would let me use his high speed tooth grinder) I have a Dremel tool. All of my flat grinding stones are way too big.

I've had luck with these things in a dremel tool. They are not nearly as abrasive as a wire wheel, however spinning fast they can remove stubborn pain/rust. And... they are soft enough to change shape and get into smaller spaces.

They do wear pretty quickly, so expect to go through quite a few of them. Good thing they are pretty cheap. You can get them on Amazon, ebay, banggood or aliexpress.



https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075C72PGK/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Shiftless]

Thanks!
Those little guys are made of a Scotchbrite type material or what???

 

[Ststephen7]

Thanks!
Those little guys are made of a Scotchbrite type material or what???

Something like that... there are different grades: fine to coarse

 

[Oregon rock crusher]

Often vise castings get a little sloppy or porous in the lettering area Shift. Sometimes to the point it's hard to even make out what it said. A small carbide burr in a rotary grinder can help clean up the sides of the letters so they stand off the vise body much better. The little burs are pretty tough and do a good job of sculpting the casting when needed. You can also do a little filling, JB weld works, to repair partially missing letters. A couple pics of cosmetically repaired casting using a small burr to clean up and repair lettering. Ed.

 

[Outlawmws]

Other options:

Dental picks, and it if it is paint, the smelly version of EZ-off oven cleaner (Custic Lye). You could also try Simple Green.

 

[Shiftless]

Thanks for the tips guys.
Outlaw...I used foaming oven cleaner (lye) with multiple coats in the evening, let it sit overnight and then pressure washed with a lightweight electric water blaster. No zero degree tip for that one.
Those burned on globs of red paint were the toughest I’ve ever seen. Only about a quarter of them came off. I had to break out the knotted wire cup brush.

I’ll get a new carbide burr like Oregon suggested for my Dremel and attack later today.

Oregon: You did an amazing restoration on that huge SJ!
Thanks for the letter restoration tips.

 

[MayerMR]

Anybody have suggestions for solving this problem?

Last month I paid just $40 for an Athol 614. It was stuck and on all the surfaces there was rust and the remnants of burned red paint.

A combination of oven cleaner and pressure washing only removed about 1/4 of the paint globs. I had to resort to a knotted wire wheel cup to get it clean and prepped for paint.

The problem is that the wire wheel didn’t clean the tiny crevasses between the lettering as you see in the pictures here.

I could just let it slide, but it’s challenging to practice on lesser vises to build knowledge, skills, and tools to tackle unique problems.

Here are 2 pics showing the problem. Most of the crud is off but you can see bits between the letters.
(I doubt that my dentist would let me use his high speed tooth grinder) I have a Dremel tool. All of my flat grinding stones are way too big.

Maybe drop it into an e-tank overnight? Ive had great luck stripping tough paint with that method. It softens it and then you can pick out the crevices with a dental pic much easier.

 

[Shiftless]

Progress...

Before and after pics below. Expand to see detail.

Using a combination of Dremel and dental pick, I got this far. Looks good enough to put up on the shelf. I’ll paint it green or maybe gray.

This vise came from an antique store in Carson City NV, which was a big time gold and silver mining town for over 100 years. If this vise was local, it probably saw some extreme working conditions. Athol vises are among the best. Aside for wear on the jaw faces, there is no damage whatsoever. No split tail either!

 

[thin_concrete]

Thanks for the tips guys.
Outlaw...I used foaming oven cleaner (lye) with multiple coats in the evening, let it sit overnight and then pressure washed with a lightweight electric water blaster. No zero degree tip for that one.
Those burned on globs of red paint were the toughest I’ve ever seen. Only about a quarter of them came off. I had to break out the knotted wire cup brush.

I’ll get a new carbide burr like Oregon suggested for my Dremel and attack later today.

Oregon: You did an amazing restoration on that huge SJ!
Thanks for the letter restoration tips.

I’m sorry if this has been answered already, but are you using an angle grinder or a wire wheel on a cordless drill? Huge difference in results when I use my angle grinder.

 

[Shiftless]

I’m sorry if this has been answered already, but are you using an angle grinder or a wire wheel on a cordless drill? Huge difference in results when I use my angle grinder.

I use my Dewalt 4 1/2 inch HD corded angle grinder and a knotted wire cup brush.
You’re absolutely right about comparing the 2 different tools. But the knotted brush destroys any patina you might want to save.

 

[thin_concrete]

I use my Dewalt 4 1/2 inch HD corded angle grinder and a knotted wire cup brush.
You’re absolutely right about comparing the 2 different tools. But the knotted brush destroys any patina you might want to save.

Yeah - I can see wanting to save some characteristics of an old vise. I’m glad you tried the Dremel as I like using mine for some spots where my AG can’t go easily.

 

[ken w.]

Have you considered sandblasting this area ? I have done this on quite a few vises in hard to reach areas. I turn the PSI down to @ 50 to get the best results. It works well on casting defects or tiny holes you find when stripping them down.

 

[Shiftless]

Have you considered sandblasting this area ? I have done this on quite a few vises in hard to reach areas. I turn the PSI down to @ 50 to get the best results. It works well on casting defects or tiny holes you find when stripping them down.

Thanks for the suggestion Ken...
I don’t have a sand blaster nor do I have a compressor big enough to run one or the space to put it. Aside from that, I’m in great shape!

Using a dental pick and my Dremel, I got most of the crud out from between the letters. This vise has seen hard work and is probably 80+ years old. It’s old enough to have the internal horseshoe retainer clip to hold the main screw.
Anyway, here is how it looks as of now. 2 coats of Rustoleum soft iron flat. It’s not yet dry. Rustoleum dries quickly but it takes many days to fully cure and harden.

 

[Ststephen7]

Parker 107 handle screw?

Hey all,

I'm working on restoring this big Parker 107, and I'm down to the last part... The set screw that sits it the end of the screw and can keep the handle from moving side to side is missing.

And... No tap or screw that I have fits nicely in that threaded hole. So... I have a few questions.

Can anyone tell me what thread that might be?
Should I use a 'normal' set screw?
Or should I put a dab of bronze on the end (or a piece of brass in the hole) to keep from scoring/marring the handle?

Mjolnir for scale...

Thank you!!!
Steve

 

[Ststephen7]

****... I forgot to include a pic of the screw repair. Don't want anyone to think I let that go. And... Restored Prentiss no. 55 Bull Dog for scale too

 

[thin_concrete]

I can’t help you with the screw, but that’s one hell of a repair!

 

[Oregon rock crusher]

That is a really nice job on that spindle break. A challenging part to repair that not many would undertake. Not sure on the thread pitch of the handle locking screw either but a thread guage would pin it down pretty fast. I don't have a Parker with that feature but expect that screw was never meant to be locked down very tight and just snugged up so the handle would still move. I'd probably use a brass screw for it or but something under a steel screw even if I had to make it on the lathe. Ed.

 

[akasrick]

Parker 107 handle screw?

Hey all,

I'm working on restoring this big Parker 107, and I'm down to the last part... The set screw that sits it the end of the screw and can keep the handle from moving side to side is missing.

And... No tap or screw that I have fits nicely in that threaded hole. So... I have a few questions.

Can anyone tell me what thread that might be?
Should I use a 'normal' set screw?
Or should I put a dab of bronze on the end (or a piece of brass in the hole) to keep from scoring/marring the handle?

Mjolnir for scale...

Thank you!!!
Steve

This is what is inside of a Parker 954 handle here.

Looks like nice work that you are doing.

akasrick

 

[Ststephen7]

This is what is inside of a Parker 954 handle here.

Looks like nice work that you are doing.



akasrick

Thank you so much! What thread pitch is that? I have a box full of set screws and none seem to fit!?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[akasrick]

Thank you so much! What thread pitch is that? I have a box full of set screws and none seem to fit!?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh heck. I was dreading that question, have the tool but never bothered to learn how to use it. MY answer make take awhile.


akasrick

 

[drivesitfar]

ORC: that big (or HUGE) Wilton 600 swivel jaw looks amazing. didn't you have to make a new from scratch vise nut for it too? I had one that found it's way to the CHAIN GANG and still wish it was mine even though VA probably is still smiling.

great color on the paint too!!

 

[akasrick]

Thank you so much! What thread pitch is that? I have a box full of set screws and none seem to fit!?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh heck. I was dreading that question, have the tool but never bothered to learn how to use it. MY answer make take awhile.


akasrick

It wont pass thru a 5/16 - 18 die will screw thru a 19/64 drill gauge, looks like it fits to #13 on the pitch gauge, I read 3 threads per 3/8".
hope that helps

akasrick

 

[454ragtop]

Thank you so much! What thread pitch is that? I have a box full of set screws and none seem to fit!?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That screw could very well be a non std. thread, some of the early Parkers used a 5/16-20 screw to hold the collars on, pretty sure that was the size as I remember. If you can't find one or make one, might be easier to tap it a std. size.

 

[Oregon rock crusher]

ORC: that big (or HUGE) Wilton 600 swivel jaw looks amazing. didn't you have to make a new from scratch vise nut for it too? I had one that found it's way to the CHAIN GANG and still wish it was mine even though VA probably is still smiling.

great color on the paint too!!

Thanks Drives, that Wilton was in rough shape when found. The spindle was broken off and missing from about where the thread starts. The nut was also missing and probably had the rest of the spindle threads with it. Worst of all it had some dovetail damage from when the nut departed the body. I posted the repair process here. https://www.garagejournal.com/forum...&highlight=american*scale*pattern#post6821710. Ed.

 

[Ststephen7]

It wont pass thru a 5/16 - 18 die will screw thru a 19/64 drill gauge, looks like it fits to #13 on the pitch gauge, I read 3 threads per 3/8".
hope that helps

akasrick

Thank you.

It looks like a match for 16 tpi on my thread gauge, and 3/8" 16 tap is way too loose. Perhaps it started out at 3/8" 16 so many years ago?

I think I will, as suggested, drill it out and retap in the next larger size. Then put a strong spring and piece of brass behind it.

 

[akasrick]

Thank you.


I think I will, as suggested, drill it out and retap in the next larger size. Then put a strong spring and piece of brass behind it.

Good for you. I have taken screws to various stores and have got close at least twice.


akasrick

 

[Ststephen7]

OK... this should be the last question on this Parker 107. I replaced the set screw on the handle, and she is complete.

However... before I list it for sale, should I do something about this area where the 'anvil' would be, if this style of vise had an anvil?

And if so, what do you suggest I do about it? I don't have a mill, otherwise I might remove some of that material and braze in a replacement piece of steel.

I guess I could fill it in with bronze (brazed in) and then smooth it out.

The wear has not deformed the vise in any way that affects its performance.

So, should I leave it, or do some repair?

 

[va.grouseman]

St, looks like someone relieved a lot of stress on that old survivor.---Either that or they kept forgetting to take their meds.

 

[JZiggy]

That Parker 107... Ow ow ow!!!

 

[ken w.]

I have belt sanded and filled in those dings with steel weld 2 part epoxy and it came out good. After it dried I belt sanded with a finer belt and painted it. The guy who did that should be smacked upside the head.

 

[gman007]

I have belt sanded and filled in those dings with steel weld 2 part epoxy and it came out good. After it dried I belt sanded with a finer belt and painted it. The guy who did that should be smacked upside the head.

Ken
While in principle I agree with your approach (or similarly using J-B weld or even better, brazing and filling scars and then gridding and sanding) I was hesitant to make a recommendation because to me there is potentially a moral dilemma here. If I was planning to keep this vise for myself, I would not have any reservations making it pretty but if I plan on selling it, then I would leave as is.

There are reoccurring complaints on the various vise threads regarding unscrupulous sellers hidding blemishes ad well as serious issues under coats of paint.

I would not to do to others what is hatful to me!

BTW, if I was going to keep such vise for myself and if I was able to do brazing, I would braze it as to me that is a lot more fundamental way of addressing the issue than using any kind of filler.

 

[MayerMR]

Ken
While in principle I agree with your approach (or similarly using J-B weld or even better, brazing and filling scars and then gridding and sanding) I was hesitant to make a recommendation because to me there is potentially a moral dilemma here. If I was planning to keep this vise for myself, I would not have any reservations making it pretty but if I plan on selling it, then I would leave as is.

There are reoccurring complaints on the various vise threads regarding unscrupulous sellers hidding blemishes ad well as serious issues under coats of paint.

I would not to do to others what is hatful to me!

BTW, if I was going to keep such vise for myself and if I was able to do brazing, I would braze it as to me that is a lot more fundamental way of addressing the issue than using any kind of filler.

gman,

I completely agree. I think even if I was planning on selling it I would do a fill job with JB Weld (or as you say, brazing would be better if you can) and then just be honest about it in the ad. Anyone looking for a vise like this would probably be either away that you *shouldn't* do that to a vise and/or wouldn't do that if the seller was truthful and said, "hey, I used JB weld to make some cosmetic clean-up, so don't whack on it with a hammer - which you shouldn't do anyway unless you want a broken vise".

 

[Outlawmws]

A solution to the "cosmetic" (or not so cosmetic) repairs is to photo document the vise restore starting with the bare naked vise, and noting where you may have used "cosmetic surgery" to make it appear nicer. I strongly doubt many would object to minor crater cleanup; the issue is hiding structural repairs...

I did once get an Email from someone saying "too ad you painted it" I'm sure they had been burned with hidden structural defects.

 

[kenc184]

If I buy a painted vise I assume there is filler in there. So far I haven't been disappointed on that front!

 

[gman007]

If I buy a painted vise I assume there is filler in there. So far I haven't been disappointed on that front!

If one buys enough vises and is not leery and does not carefully scrutinize the paint etc, it is only a matter of time to be disappointed!