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2019 Garage Sale Thread

Private Lugnutz

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Good grab. There are a few KW-era flight line tricycles in an old hangar on Lakehurst Naval Air Engineering Station being used for surplus and junk that I have had my eye on for a few months now, Beemer. I am just waiting for the right time to snag one.
 
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Outlawmws

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BB, I don';t know if this gains any clarity, but a bit bigger, (cropped) and I putzed with the lighting:

(Maybe scrub it with chalk and wipe the top surface?)

Based on what you said I get 1880?

M&H
Armatige
Mouse
Hole

attachment.php


If this source is correct, my anvil could date from between 1820 and 1835, based on what I can parse from the lettering. I see an "H" in the top line, "USE" on the third line, and part of an "O" and an "LE" on the fourth line before the weight numbers.d9def3783a7a5159b02019c0df91f923.jpg

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davethorik

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Those are all good (useful) sizes. And surface rust on impact sockets is nothing. It just means they've been used. If you're worried, hit them with a quick spray of some WD40.

That's why I bought the set. It's a great supplement...i already have Wright 1/2 metric impacts 10-27. I figure for Proto prices I could have Cornwell. Guy said he had these over 20 years. I had actually priced out individual Wright sockets in 30, 32, and 36 and it's a wash, plus I got 34 and the tray.
 

drivesitfar

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BB: sorry if I misled you thinking that was a Peter Wright. I can't recall seeing the feet before I made my call and maybe I was too excited for you or my old eyes and new glasses just can't see what I used to.

good find in any case and almost a perfect weight anvil cause you might be able to still lift it if you need to. I've been SORT OF looking for a 200 pound anvil, but not willing to pay the pittance the sellers ask for them.

ALL: well I might have mentioned a drive to pick up some metal cabinets and while a couple other deals are on hold this one happened. I picked up an 18 drawer, 12 drawer and seller threw in the small 3 drawer. i'm not sure who made these, but i'm guessing they might be pre WWII like my old baker's cabinet I picked up a couple years ago.

any thoughts on the maker?? also it looks like my cabinets are original Army green color so wondering if I can soak these with Simple Green and maybe lose the flaking grey and keep the green? i'll also re configure the drawers and make both of the bigger cabinets 15 drawers each so they look the same cause they'll be on top of each other.

great finds guys and we still have another day of the weekend left. I guess it doesn't matter if its the weekend or not with most of you guys that seem to find stuff laying on the side of the road.
 

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Corndoggeh

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Some juicy finds to start the year with, everyone. I would also like to hand out a "you ****" to Mr. $10 Anvil over there. The best condition anvil I ever saw here in the SW was at an antique fair. It was a Peter Wright 200 ish pound anvil that someone bought for $900. Old beaten ones with broken corners everywhere and damaged horns have been offered, and even sold sometimes, in the upwards of $200+ dollars, its straight ridiculous down here.
 

jakemac

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Went to the local pawn shop and picked up a 1/2” drive ratchet for my roadside emergency box, 5/8” USA craftsman spark plug socket for the same roadside box (mine walked away, dunno when), and a Wright USA 24mm (dunno why)

$16 and some change after tax... Dunno if I did good or not. Still trying to do research on the ratchet...


Magnum - Craftsman only offered the Butterfly selector between 1960-1963.
That one looks to have been well cared for. Nice find.
 

hangfirew8

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Finally got a good deal on a good grinder. Baldor 623E for $25. This will get 2 quality 6" wheels right after I clean it up. Runs smooth as butter. Jumped on the ad minutes after it was listed. I have other grinders but never been satisfied with vibration, even after diamond dressing. That's not going to be a problem with this one.
 

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IdahoMan

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First pick ups of 2019! Hit a local Habitat Restore today and dug through some socket piles. Almost all SK sockets, with the two sockets on the left being Snap-On. The screwdriver is an SK, but it is in pretty rough shape. Picked it all up for $10!

IMG_2329.jpg

Are the SK sockets in good shape? I'm in need of a SK 9mm long/deep socket, it's the one I am missing.
 

JoshDPi

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Are the SK sockets in good shape? I'm in need of a SK 9mm long/deep socket, it's the one I am missing.

They are all in relatively good shape, but unfortunately, they are all SAE. I will be going back to the Restore later this week, so I'll be sure to look for one!
 

bmwrd0

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Good grab. There are a few KW-era flight line tricycles in an old hangar on Lakehurst Naval Air Engineering Station being used for surplus and junk that I have had my eye on for a few months now, Beemer. I am just waiting for the right time to snag one.

This one is newer than I would like (I am still looking for a vintage Schwinn) but this model is supposed to be very good, and I would have a vintage one disassembled for 6-9 months.
 

Magnum440d100

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Magnum - Craftsman only offered the Butterfly selector between 1960-1963.
That one looks to have been well cared for. Nice find.

Only 3 years?!? I knew it was old, but didn’t think it had such a short run!

Yeah it is actually in decent condition, though it does have some love marks for sure, and the selector has some chrome peeling, but it works absolutely smooth. I’m going to pull it apart and grease it, since though it’s smooth, it does feel/sound dry. Plus oil never hurt nothing haha
 

Oily Nails

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Wow some great finds in the first weekend of 2019 by everyone!

Bluebomber you ****! I looked at an anvil yesterday half that size/weight with the top looking like it'd been hit with a jackhammer.... And they wanted £200!!!

Drivesitfar, love those cabinets. It's scores like that which make me want a car with more cargo space

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OP
B

BlueBomber

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BB: sorry if I misled you thinking that was a Peter Wright. I can't recall seeing the feet before I made my call and maybe I was too excited for you or my old eyes and new glasses just can't see what I used to.
No worries, drives! You got me on the right track to narrow in on English anvils and that led me to Mouse Hole. Thanks!

BB, I don';t know if this gains any clarity, but a bit bigger, (cropped) and I putzed with the lighting:

(Maybe scrub it with chalk and wipe the top surface?)

Based on what you said I get 1880?

M&H
Armatige
Mouse
Hole

attachment.php

Not to go all Gerry Can on this anvil conversation....but if it were an 1880 anvil, it would have "Forge" below "Hole", like this one I found via Google. Plus, although I didn't show the top of the anvil, it doesn't have a pritchel (round) hole next to the hardy (square) hole. That seems to make it pre-1830.

92c1136bbb3627dd25657b5a9bad55ac.jpg

Okay, that's my last post on the anvil. Thanks for all the comments and suckage awards. Now I need to review the raft of other finds that have been posted while I had my head in anvil land.


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drivesitfar

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BBR: I’m pretty quick sometimes on giving members something I believe to be true and learning to be a bit more thorough like lugs and others.

Oily: I brought these cabinets home in the back of my wife’s Honda CR-V. It’s almost got as much room in back as my Honda Pilot and I didn’t even have to put the seats down to fit these cabinets inside. She’s not a fan of me hauling rusty gold in her CRV but she lets me occasionally and my Pilot has a trailer attached that I didn’t have time to take to my shop so today she gave me the nod.

All: if any of you might have easy methods to remove of grey paint off my cool cabinets please post them over on our vintage metal cabinet thread. AND if you might have a shop cabinet to post on that thread please do.

Enjoy your day!!
 

Private Lugnutz

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Wait, is it Gerry can? Or Jerry Can?
Both. Seriously, you will see it both ways. I've read two explanations for the difference, both similar/related. I've read that "Gerry Can" came about to distinguish German (Jerry) cans from British/US (Gerry) cans. And I've read that it came about because some people consider "Jerry" to be a derogative term, like "Nip" or "Jap." I don't put much stock in either one, but you do see both spellings.

BB: As far as harkening back to last year's thread, nothing achieves this more than your anvil find, which is eerily similar to Outlaw's, if not in make, than timing! He found his in January. Since host's are ineligible for Picker of the Year though, you may as well give that anvil to me. I will drop by on my way to URI later this week. Let me know when you're available. :lol:

...learning to be a bit more thorough like lugs and others.
Thanks for the compliment, Drives. My wife and kids have other words for it. The nicest is probably 'intense,' but it quickly goes south to less nice (e.g., obsessed) from there. :)
 

BFBOB

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Back to yesterday's sale for half-price day. Picked up a couple more clamps. I'm not fond of the batwings, but this one is a Jorgensen 4". Yup, TANSTATMC!
I grabbed the propane torch case mostly for the Heritage logo case, but looking around I found the torch attached to a propane cylinder across the room. That makes it a nearly full set (no lighter), including the original papers. Pipe clamp feet and electrical tape are useful. Total tab: $5.50

On closer inspection of the manual, it shows lighting the torch with a match! I'm guessing that means it didn't come with a sparklighter. Dated 1944.:dunno:
 

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Private Lugnutz

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I took home a very satisfying small haul from my flea market this morning...

attachment.php


The hatchet is a TrueTemper TOMMY AXE. The DP vise is a North Brothers (Pre-STANLEY) "YANKEE" No . 990. And two of the four pieces from an unbranded brass < 4-IN-1 > nesting screwdrivers set with a hexcap end.
 

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BFBOB

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Both. Seriously, you will see it both ways. I've read two explanations for the difference, both similar/related. I've read that "Gerry Can" came about to distinguish German (Jerry) cans from British/US (Gerry) cans. And I've read that it came about because some people consider "Jerry" to be a derogative term, like "Nip" or "Jap." I don't put much stock in either one, but you do see both spellings.

Also, in German, the G is usually pronounced hard, as in good, so it makes sense to spell it as anglophones pronounce it, with a J.

There was an episode of "Combat", a TV show from the 60's, with Sammy Davis Jr. where there was a suspected Nazi spy dressed as a US soldier. The plot hinged on Davis provoking the spy into hurling the unmentionable racial epithet at him, but mispronouncing the double G's as a J. Davis shouted back, correcting his pronunciation "It's -----" with the key word drowned out by machinegun fire as Davis shredded the spy.

I generally don't much like war movies/TV, but this show, which starred Vic Morrow, was more thoughtful than most. Not so much "we can throw more lead than you".
 

BFBOB

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BF, that is Government Issue. I have the same OD green box from the Army. Are the drawers lined with green felt?

Yes, they are, and it's in remarkably good condition, showing oil etc. stains, but not much wear. Did it have a particular purpose, or just general use?
I've not found any markings on it - but haven't done a Sherlock inspection. Is there any particular place I might find such?

Thanks!
 

Private Lugnutz

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Here are some pics of the brass nesting screwdrivers. These are corny but irresistible to me! :lol:

Also, for those who may be interested in seeing further photos of the TrueTemper Tommy Axe, go to my post on the GJ 'Axes' thread here.

For the little North Bros "YANKEE" 'TOOL ROOM' DP vise, go to my post the 'Vises of GJ' mega thread, here.
 

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BFBOB

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Nice find!


Yup. You nailed it. It is.

BFBOB:

My Art Steel Co armorer's box has a leather handle, otherwise almost exactly the same as yours. The only other major difference I notice in comparison is that your drop front lid has a sort of taper in it across the top that mine doesn't have.
I am curious to know if your drop front lid/tray has the small parts trough in it like mine does?

Lugz,
The front lid is perfectly flat. What you see in the picture is the area that protrudes out the front when the lid is in the stowed position at the bottom. It apparenty spent a lot of time like that and accumulated microfine dust in the wrinkles of the paint. A quick swipe with a damp rag took care of that. What's odd is that it looks to me like with it stowed with the front side up, the latch tang would prevent the bottom drawer from opening. The scratches show that it's been stowed both ways, but the dust seems to say it was most often stowed wrong side up.
Thanks for all the info -- now to go look at your pix!
The inside does not have a trough, just a wide stiffening corrugation going across the center.

*edit* Looking at your pix, my front cover is the same as yours. I misunderstood trough- took it to mean for storage. It would indeed function to hold tiny bits while working on something.
 
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Private Lugnutz

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The inside does not have a trough, just a wide stiffening corrugation going across the center.
We're probably talking about the same thing. I think it served two purposes. Stiffener and small parts trough. I think the same thing about my other wartime machinists' box, a Kennedy, with three dimples in the drop front lid/tray/work surface.
 

Outlawmws

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Lugz, i also have collected WAY too many of these nesting drivers; -the concept is a great one, but the bit quality ***** generally.

I had a thought today, I wonder if I can take a set and pull the cheap bits, and replace with better quality? I have LOTS of old drivers that are much better steel than what these come with that I keep to grind to a special size use.

I have a pile of them that the handles are butchered... That could be a source? Something for a rainy day where I'm not already booked (like today; Camping prep..)

if the shank is the right size.
 

Private Lugnutz

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Lugz, i also have collected WAY too many of these nesting drivers; -the concept is a great one, but the bit quality ***** generally.
If you mean tips or blades, yeah, they're not tool steel, that's for sure. These are chewed up a little. If you mean bits, literally, these shanks don't unscrew. It's not that kind of set. The smaller one fits inside the larger one, and the hexnut end cap has two different diameter threads on it so it can screw onto the end of the larger one while it's screwed onto the smaller one. Not sure how the other two (it's a 4-IN-1) missing drivers would work, though. The hexnut end cap will only work on these two.
 

Outlawmws

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I'm talking about pulling the cheap steel out of the brass handle if possible and replacing the shank. Nothing to do with the brass nesting parts, other than re-use.
 

jakemac

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Hmmmm ......
Heat the whole screwdriver to expand the metal, dip just the shank in ice water to try to shrink it, then drive the handle off the shank ???? :headscrat
 

bmwrd0

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Its weird what catches our eyes. I probably have a couple dozen bit drivers and a whole drawer of bits. I just can't stop buying them. The nesting drivers do nothing for me though.
 

Private Lugnutz

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Maybe I've given the wrong impression. These aren't cheap gimmicky screwdrivers. These shanks aren't going anywhere without cutting them off or ruining the handle and I wouldn't even consider it. While the shanks and blades probably aren't exactly the same quality as a forged steel screwdriver driven into a handle and held with a ferrule, they are steel, and they are very solid, well-made screwdrivers. It's the concept that I am referring to as a little corny.

Since it's branded a "4 IN 1", I'm just stumped on how the other two screwdrivers fit. This entire smaller screwdriver fits inside the larger one, and screws into the end of it with the wider threads on the hexnut end cap. The hexnut end cap can also be screwed on and off of the smaller one, and its handle is also an empty brass tube, ostensibly for at least one smaller screwdriver. But it would be awfully small, the hexnut end cap wouldn't play any part in that, and it wouldn't play any part in a larger one, either, if that was the fourth piece, because it only has provisions for screwing in and out of these two particular ends.

So I'm just stumped on the other two pieces.
 

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Levaughn

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I picked these items up at an Estate sale yesterday:

Six inch Rigid Pipe Wrench
2 Stanley offset screw drivers #669
Baldwin #222 Feeler gage
Twix Jobbers Drill Gage
Ten inch Nicholson file
Thermostat
 

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Smokeshow69

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So, I have been jonesing like a fiend for a good sale lately, and yesterday one came up. One good enough that I went back today!

First day:



Highlight include a Stanley SweetHeart plane, two P&C ratchets, Craftsman flying V socket set, MAC spinner, Cresent socket box, long SK ratchet (needs kit) and Proto wire strippers.

Second day:



Highlights include a complete set of ratcheting wrenches, Pony clamp, Proto line wrench, misc. Proto LA, a Cresent wrench I needed to fix a double ender and a Plomb ignition wrench. Misc. sockets on both days include SK, Craftsman, Snap-on, MAC, Proto and Armstrong. Proto wrenches include a DBE chevron. I paid $45 altogether, and that was a story in its own self. The first day the guy (stepson) priced me and called to his mom to make change. OK. Next day he tells me to go ask his mom for a price. OK, so I go in the house. She looks at me and says "why did he send you inside?" She had a price list he made but she didn't even know half the tools and just cut me a price. Much better.



There was just a ton of stuff in sheds all over. If they had just spent a day or two getting the whole thing organized they would have done much better. But that is family run estate sales. I just missed getting a couple Stanley router planes, kinda bummed about that.



Here is are additional pics of the socket boxes:





Does anyone know a good way to clean paper labels? I don't see the old Cresent lables very often.



Nice job on picking as usual! Nice grab on the Flying V ratchet set. After I found the 1/2 set at the Canby swap, I am wanting to find a 3/8 and 1/4 set.


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Boofer

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Two trips to the flea brought home the following for about $50.

Wilton 645. Dirty and needs a new bushing for the main screw but otherwise solid. I know these are the budget Wiltons but it's a lot better than my worn out Chinese Craftsman.

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B-52, 2 Snap On drivers, Snap On puller, 1/4" SK box with a few sockets, Wright 1/4" universal, Crowntop protractor, and a CMan drill bit sharpener.
dd6aece5d6c51b1d0fcf4ff27e0bd564.jpg
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Not pictured is a Snap On winter coat for another $15.

The B-52 is functional but needs a clean and lube. Is there a method or tool that works best for opening this thing up?
 

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d42jeep

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I carefully used a pin punch with plenty of penetrating oil. Seemed to work okay. Mine had been very abused.
-Don
 

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Outlawmws

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Lugz, Un-screw the cap off the smaller one there is more inside. Think Russian nesting dolls...

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