Another Air Compressor Thread

[trpearcy]

Hey Folks,
like the title says, looking for air compressor advice.
So, I own a small auto repair shop.
I do tires, some sand blasting, and normal shop work. I do run a large air grinder sometimes, but that's probably the most demanding thing, along with the tire machine.
So... I have a 60 Gal Husky air compressor that I've had for about 5 years, and due to the sheer amount of hours I've put on it, it's on it's last legs. I'm going to have the pump rebuilt later on, and add it back into the system as an aux compressor, but I need a large primary compressor that can keep up with the air tools, and the tire machine.
So. Budget is around 2K.
I'm kinda narrowed it down to a couple models that I can have delivered to me from local companies.

The first is an 80 GAL 2 stage Jenny. $2200 bucks. I can't get a link, because I can't find the exact model online anywhere. it's supposed to be 24CFM, and the pump RPM is 1780.

The second option is the big IR at tractor supply.
The info for that one is on the site.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/ingersoll-rand-75-hp-80-gallon-two-stage-air-compressor



So, my question is, are the bigger V-style pump IRs still decent? I hear a lot of people complaining about issues on the smaller IRs. I thought that the V style pumps were more reliable in the IRs?

And is the Jenny worth the extra bit of cash? I like that it's made in the USA, and Jenny seems to be good about standing by their product.

Opinions? Experience?
Thanks!

 

[bochnak]

You might want to consider a brand that has service and parts available local to you. Last thing you want as a business owner is having equipment down.

Have you looked at champion from tp tools?

https://www.tptools.com/RV-Series.html

 

[trpearcy]

You might want to consider a brand that has service and parts available local to you. Last thing you want as a business owner is having equipment down.

Have you looked at champion from tp tools?

https://www.tptools.com/RV-Series.html

Ya, That company is a little bit away from me, and tractor supply is 2.1 miles from my shop, and carries about 90% of the consumable items to maintain the compressor, and the company I would buy the Jenny through, Hovis Auto parts, also carries most of the consumables for the compressors they sell

 

[marinusdees]

A 1780 rpm pump is not gonna be quiet, if that matters.

 

[DerekV]

Are you sure that 1780 isn’t the motor RPM?

 

[bochnak]

Ya, That company is a little bit away from me, and tractor supply is 2.1 miles from my shop, and carries about 90% of the consumable items to maintain the compressor, and the company I would buy the Jenny through, Hovis Auto parts, also carries most of the consumables for the compressors they sell

What I meant is an independent air compressor service/parts company local to you. What brands do they support?

 

[sberry]

A good comp better than the one he has should go a long frickin time before it needs parts and service. I would put Amsoil or similar in it and forget about it till it needed the belts tightened a little. I don't remember the genny, I believe its better than the ir, either way change the oil religiously every 10 years or so.

 

[Wrench97]

Quincy compressors are my favorite my uncle's has been running a auto shop everyday since 1975 with only minor repairs and 1 motor swap due to voltage problem in the 90's

In western Pa you have CH Reed for sales and service> https://www.chreed.com/compressed-air-systems-equipment/reciprocating-air-compressors/

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

Quincy QR series
Champion PL or R series pumps
Saylor-Beall

Those are the top 3 brands in my eyes. All 3 will give you a lifetime of service.
The Quincy QR series are pressure lubricated pumps as are the Champion PL series and Saylor-Beall PL series. You'll pay more for any of the pressure lubricated pumps, but it's worth the money if you make a living with your compressor.

 

[trpearcy]

OK, So everybody seems to love the Quincy compressors.

Any word on what everyone thinks of the Jennys?

Are the new IRs, like the one I linked to in the OP any good?

 

[md21722]

Jenny may be a favorite for you because you are in Western PA and they are too. They are good pumps. I'd look at the W pump models when looking at Jenny.

My personal favorite is the Champion Advantage/R-Series that uses the R15 pump at 5 HP. What sets the Champions apart is that there is no valve plate and no head gaskets. The valves are under the manifolds and serviceable with a 9/16" wrench and a couple of line wrenches to deal with the plumbing. They've been making them this way since at least the 1940's and they last a long time. At 5 HP the R15 turns around 740 RPM which is relatively slow compared to the alternatives. While they do sell them at 7.5 HP, it is better to look towards the R30 pump. However, the R15 would still work but it would be better if it was in outdoors or in a separate room than the rest of the shop.

Quincy built their name on the QR series. What you can buy at Northern and other big box stores are the QT series which are more value oriented. They are fast turning pumps. They state a long warranty but only if you buy the $$$ maintenance package when you purchase the compressor which seems kind of gimmicky to me.

Saylor Beall also makes excellent compressors. You will need special tools either from them or make your own to service the valves. But they are very stout compressors that last for ages.

Basically the best compressors are not found on the floor of a big box store. If you have an air compressor dealer in your area I suggest reaching out them. We have one in town that is very good. I realize not every place will be like that.

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

MD has a great point as servicing the valves is part of normal maintenance and is a requirement to keep your pump operating at maximum efficiency.

I have serviced valves in all 3 brands, Quincy (QR series) Champion (R series) and Saylor- Beall and the Champion is the easiest, quickest and only requires standard hand tools.

Out here on the west coast the Jenny (Emglo) compressors are mostly seen as portable units for construction rather than stationary units and as such are single stage pumps and are quite reliable. I haven't had any experience with their two stage units, but I would guess they are worth looking into.

Let us know what you end up with!

 

[Pontiac787]

Any thoughts on Industrial Air brand compressors? They seem to fall somewhere between the box store models and the QR series.

 

[Toold_up]

Get the Jenny! Aren't they made in Somerset? Support your local!

 

[trpearcy]

Picked up this Jenny this morning.

 

[md21722]

Picked up this Jenny this morning.

Do you have any pictures?

 

[Crabman]

trpearcy,

Picked up this Jenny this morning.

Best of luck with it! I am with Toold up on the buy local.

Will look forward to some pics.

Bruce

 

[trpearcy]

Sorry folks, thought I had added the picture. Here it is. She’s wired up and plumbed in, and runs great. A lot quieter then my old one, and the extra CFM makes a huge difference.

 

[trpearcy]

 

[trpearcy]

In the end, I went with the Jenny mainly because of a couple reasons, including CFM rating, and the motor manufacture, but the biggest thing over the IR is the pressure lubrication. The IR is splash lube, and in this price range, you should have pressurized lubrication standard, IMO

I appreciate everyone’s input

 

[md21722]

In the end, I went with the Jenny mainly because of a couple reasons, including CFM rating, and the motor manufacture, but the biggest thing over the IR is the pressure lubrication. The IR is splash lube, and in this price range, you should have pressurized lubrication standard, IMO

I appreciate everyone’s input

Jenny does not sell a pressure lubricated pump. They are all splash lubricated.

 

[trpearcy]

Jenny does not sell a pressure lubricated pump. They are all splash lubricated.

Did you see the pictures? It clearly has an oil pump and oil lines going to each head. Also, the service manual for the pump clearly mentions an oil pump.

 

[md21722]

Did you see the pictures? It clearly has an oil pump and oil lines going to each head. Also, the service manual for the pump clearly mentions an oil pump.

Those lines are the head unloaders for the centrificial unloader on the front of the compressor. The "compressor" pump is splash lubed. They do sell "oil" for the "pump" but in this usage, "pump" refers to the compressor, not a separate oil pump.

 

[trpearcy]

Those lines are the head unloaders for the centrificial unloader on the front of the compressor. The "compressor" pump is splash lubed. They do sell "oil" for the "pump" but in this usage, "pump" refers to the compressor, not a separate oil pump.

Ok sir.

 

[trpearcy]

Ok so on a completely different note, I have looked at the option of putting my old 60 gal comp in the system as a secondary compressor, with the pressure switch set lower then the main compressor's switch. I have read that a check valve would be needed. No problem to add that, but any other advice?
The car dealership I worked at had 2 120 gal compressors wired together, and the newer one was the main compressor, and then the older one was the secondary that only came on when pressure significantly dropped in the system. They had zero check valves. Just a "manifold" where both compressors were plumbed to

 

[md21722]

Can you give more information about the Husky air compressor?

Is it a 3.x HP 60 gallon 125 psi 11 CFM model?

The best way to do it is going to depend on what that compressor is.

I do not use check valves in my dual air compressor setup, but they are both dual stage Champions. When pressures or compressor types start getting mixed together, care is needed.

 

[trpearcy]

Can you give more information about the Husky air compressor?

Is it a 3.x HP 60 gallon 125 psi 11 CFM model?

The best way to do it is going to depend on what that compressor is.

I do not use check valves in my dual air compressor setup, but they are both dual stage Champions. When pressures or compressor types start getting mixed together, care is needed.

Yes, it is the 3.6HP, 60Gal, 155 psi, 11CFM model. It's about 4 years old, and although I have maintained it very well, the motor needs rebuilt. It's got a LOT of hours on it. Probably more then most people ever put on these Home Depot Husky air compressors. But I'm going to get the motor rebuilt, and then was hoping to put it to use again.

 

[trpearcy]

Also, anyone have any experience with this?
I know my CFM is over what it says it can handle. The Jenny compressor I just bought is rated for 28.8CFM at 125psi.

https://www.harborfreight.com/compr...1gOIZQYvXqgJOAAOhQkkGvBVvfldIP8caAnsMEALw_wcB

 

[md21722]

155-150 psi is not much different, you could plumb that together into a manifold like you saw at your old shop with no need for a check valve.

The concern would be exceeding the duty cycle of either compressor by running continuously for extended periods of time, such as a single compressor trying to fill both tanks on a regular basis. I would be more concerned about the smaller Husky pump trying to fill both tanks on a regular basis, than I would the Jenny filling the Husky tank. But that is not your intent.

To solve the duty cycle issue, you could put check valves in a manifold. The problem with most check valves is that they limit air flow. This is not a problem where they are typically used between a pump and tank. Whereas a 1/2" check valve might only flow 25-30 CFM, a 1/2" line from the tank can flow 100 CFM. Reduced CFM causes increased pressure drop across and reduced tool performance.

Since your intention is to use the Husky as supplemental, I probably wouldn't be concerned about duty cycle. If you are going to take the Jenny out of service for any length of time, I would shut off the valve on the Jenny tank so the Husky isn't trying to fill it regularly.

I would put shutoff valves on the manifolds too for ease of service and isolation. That way you have valves at the tank and manifold. If you need to move one compressor or change a line to the manifold, etc. you can just shut the valves off rather than having to drain tanks, etc.

 

[trpearcy]

155-150 psi is not much different, you could plumb that together into a manifold like you saw at your old shop with no need for a check valve.

The concern would be exceeding the duty cycle of either compressor by running continuously for extended periods of time, such as a single compressor trying to fill both tanks on a regular basis. I would be more concerned about the smaller Husky pump trying to fill both tanks on a regular basis, than I would the Jenny filling the Husky tank. But that is not your intent.

To solve the duty cycle issue, you could put check valves in a manifold. The problem with most check valves is that they limit air flow. This is not a problem where they are typically used between a pump and tank. Whereas a 1/2" check valve might only flow 25-30 CFM, a 1/2" line from the tank can flow 100 CFM. Reduced CFM causes increased pressure drop across and reduced tool performance.

Since your intention is to use the Husky as supplemental, I probably wouldn't be concerned about duty cycle. If you are going to take the Jenny out of service for any length of time, I would shut off the valve on the Jenny tank so the Husky isn't trying to fill it regularly.

I would put shutoff valves on the manifolds too for ease of service and isolation. That way you have valves at the tank and manifold. If you need to move one compressor or change a line to the manifold, etc. you can just shut the valves off rather than having to drain tanks, etc.

Ok, thanks for the info. The Jenny already has shutoffs installed on it, so I'll just add one to the Husky, and I'll probably put one on the air system side so that I would't have to drain the whole system. Between the tire machine and the 200ft of 3/4 line in the garage, there's quite a bit of volume there.
I'll post some pics when I get this setup all done and ready to go. I've looked at reviews of the HF compressed air dryer, and they seem to get decent reviews. One guy on another forum took his apart and said it had Honeywell circuit boards in it, which I feel like I've heard of being used in other, much more expensive brands.

 

[anndel]

Awesome choice supporting Made in USA and your local company! When I was looking for a compressor years ago, it was a Jenny but shipping to Hawaii was astronomical. I settles for a Husky since the local dealers wanted an arm and several legs for delivery to their store.

 

[md21722]

Also, anyone have any experience with this?
I know my CFM is over what it says it can handle. The Jenny compressor I just bought is rated for 28.8CFM at 125psi.

https://www.harborfreight.com/compr...1gOIZQYvXqgJOAAOhQkkGvBVvfldIP8caAnsMEALw_wcB

I have no personal experience with these air dryers.

The Jenny J5 compressor puts out 19 CFM (28.8 is displaced, the 19 CFM delivered is the key number) so its just under the rating of the HF. However, you really size the air dryer to your air usage needs. If for example, you used a tool that used 37 CFM in short bursts, a 19 CFM dryer would not perform to its ratings.

Also, air dryers are rated assuming a maximum air temperature on the inlet. For normal air dryers, the inlet temperature assumes an after cooler installed on the air compressor. Or, you'd need to buy a high temp air dryer.

One of the easiest ways to dry air for most automotive needs is to use a second tank. For example, if you never wanted to run the Husky again, you could put the outlet of the Jenny into the top of the Husky tank and the side of the Husky then goes into your air distribution system. The air tank acts like a giant expansion device which drops almost as much water as you will get from the Jenny compressor tank itself.

 

[trpearcy]

I have no personal experience with these air dryers.

The Jenny J5 compressor puts out 19 CFM (28.8 is displaced, the 19 CFM delivered is the key number) so its just under the rating of the HF. However, you really size the air dryer to your air usage needs. If for example, you used a tool that used 37 CFM in short bursts, a 19 CFM dryer would not perform to its ratings.

Also, air dryers are rated assuming a maximum air temperature on the inlet. For normal air dryers, the inlet temperature assumes an after cooler installed on the air compressor. Or, you'd need to buy a high temp air dryer.

One of the easiest ways to dry air for most automotive needs is to use a second tank. For example, if you never wanted to run the Husky again, you could put the outlet of the Jenny into the top of the Husky tank and the side of the Husky then goes into your air distribution system. The air tank acts like a giant expansion device which drops almost as much water as you will get from the Jenny compressor tank itself.

So you would advise against a dryer like the one I linked to?
For the price of the dryer, I could easily pick up a tank and do exactly what you’re saying. So I’ll do that if that would dry my air better...

 

[md21722]

So you would advise against a dryer like the one I linked to?
For the price of the dryer, I could easily pick up a tank and do exactly what you’re saying. So I’ll do that if that would dry my air better...

With an extra 60 gallon tank in my system that runs in series to the air compressor before hitting the air distribution system, I get no water at my regulator/filters just some fine rust particles from the tanks or black iron pipes...

Before I did this, the bowl of my water separator would start filling and I would get moisture coming out of my high flow air tools.

So for you, I would take both compressors and run them into the top of a 3rd tank, and then the outlet of that tank into your air distribution system.

The extra advantage of all this tank and air is that your air compressors will run longer when they run, but they won't cycle as often. Also there is no power cord or machine to fail.

My system is effectively 7.5 HP on 240 gallons.... and I don't have after coolers on the air compressors themselves. That 3rd tank is good enough for my needs. I don't paint. I have talked to others who use the same concept with great success.

If you are unsure of whether or not this system works for you, you might try adapting your existing Husky compressor to test the idea and figure out what works best for you. I think worst case is you can do both.

 

[trpearcy]

With an extra 60 gallon tank in my system that runs in series to the air compressor before hitting the air distribution system, I get no water at my regulator/filters just some fine rust particles from the tanks or black iron pipes...

Before I did this, the bowl of my water separator would start filling and I would get moisture coming out of my high flow air tools.

So for you, I would take both compressors and run them into the top of a 3rd tank, and then the outlet of that tank into your air distribution system.

The extra advantage of all this tank and air is that your air compressors will run longer when they run, but they won't cycle as often. Also there is no power cord or machine to fail.

My system is effectively 7.5 HP on 240 gallons.... and I don't have after coolers on the air compressors themselves. That 3rd tank is good enough for my needs. I don't paint. I have talked to others who use the same concept with great success.

If you are unsure of whether or not this system works for you, you might try adapting your existing Husky compressor to test the idea and figure out what works best for you. I think worst case is you can do both.

I like this idea a lot the more I think about it. Less moving parts, less stuff that can break, nice and simple.

So I’ll run the 2 compressors into the manifold, and then from the manifold into this other tank/water trap, and then from that tank into the air system.

 

[trpearcy]

Also, is it bad for my new compressor to run longer? The electric motor lists it’s duty cycle as “continuous”. I know there’s got to be a duty cycle for the pump also

 

[md21722]

Also, is it bad for my new compressor to run longer? The electric motor lists it’s duty cycle as “continuous”. I know there’s got to be a duty cycle for the pump also

Duty cycle matters, and there are a couple of definitions that are used to describe duty cycle. I would not be that concerned about duty cycle unless your compressor is "always" running.

How often does the compressor run during the day?

With my 240 gallon setup, I can do multiple brake jobs and tire rotations before they even think about coming on. If I need to cut a collar and bearing off an axle shaft, the tanks might drop 20 psi but they still don't need to come on to do the job if the tanks were filled... When do they do come on, one takes about 6 minutes to fill the tanks from 140 to 175 and both running together take about 3 minutes...

Duty cycle matters more depending on the size of the shop and how many guys are always using air. A production tire shop where there are production mandates and guys are taking alternating lunches and always running tire machines and impacts is a bit different than a smaller 1-2 man shop doing general automotive work.

What describes your situation?

 

[sberry]

I have 200 gallons on 3 hp. If I manage the cycle can work a long time before I am down and with it running steady any breaks or off throttle is recharging, if I resume before shut off can sand or wheel most jobs, done before I run out. I have the breaker off to the 5 unless I am going to blast.

 

[md21722]

Also, is it bad for my new compressor to run longer? The electric motor lists it’s duty cycle as “continuous”. I know there’s got to be a duty cycle for the pump also

I would follow the compressor break in cycle. Then use top dollar synthetic air compressor lube (Jenny Ultimate Blue, ChampLub Synthetic) which costs around $28 a quart and is good for 5000-8000 hours. The cheaper mineral oil maybe $25 a gallon but not good for nearly as long...300 hours? Since compressors are often purchased and forgotten until they stop working, I think the synthetic lube is money well spent. Also pay attention to the air filters. Jenny uses Solberg as the OEM for filters as do many others. Check and replace as needed. No need to buy air filters from Jenny. I don't have a part number handy for the particular air filters on your compressor, but I'd be shocked if you couldn't find it in the Solberg catalog and available from Zoro or Amazon are a good price.

 

[sberry]

Yes, I use synthetic. Runs 1000's of hours a change. For some users this could be the life of the unit or life of the user whichever comes first. I am on the 10 year plan. Had it out for bearings and a cap couple years ago and didn't bother changing.