Motorman55
Well-known member
NOTHING! and I don't feel bad about it either. TOO DAMNED HOT 
What did you do "IN" your garage today?
- Thread starter mayhemman
- Start date
dkroth
Well-known member
I like Wiha screwdrivers.
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BajaScout
Well-known member
What did you do "IN" your garage today?
I helped a friend chase down an electrical issue with his 1970 Jeep In his carport.
Starter would kick in by just turning the key on. No need to turn the ignition switch to on.
Wiring meltdown was the culprit due to ****** splicing and being near the exhaust manifold.
He has a nice Jeep.
Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app
I helped a friend chase down an electrical issue with his 1970 Jeep In his carport.
Starter would kick in by just turning the key on. No need to turn the ignition switch to on.
Wiring meltdown was the culprit due to ****** splicing and being near the exhaust manifold.
He has a nice Jeep.
Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app
Attachments
Power door locks on my 2012 Super Duty started blowing 20 amp fuse. I found broken and welded wires inside the back door. Then more searching found more melted wire in the Piller and near fuse box. I don't think this wire is heavy enough for the size fuse. After repairs it seems to work fine on 15. I might try 10. Don't want to burn the truck down.
Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using The Garage Journal mobile app
Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using The Garage Journal mobile app
BajaScout
Well-known member
Magnum440d100
Well-known member
Did a lot of cleanup/cleanoit deciding on what I would want to move across country haha
dalehsc
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Actually last evening after work. 3 wks ago I was putting a monroe advertising light next to the ceiling at the end wall in the basement. I needed a short #2 Robertson hex bit to drive in a wood screw.......couldn't find one. I wanted to drive the screw with a bit ratchet. The space was limited & that's what I needed. A day later i got one & got the job done. Now,back to last night,I decided to gather up all my hex bits,to clean & sort. A hundred and nine bits. (Robertson/Flat/Phillips/Pozidrive/Torx/Hex-Allen) When done I still only had the #2 Robertson I just bought. My assortment is now down to thirty eight in the tool box,but some sizes to fill. I only found four brand name bits. (snap-on) But I found a couple marked "made in Germany" Small but satisfactory job done!
PassnThru
Well-known member
PassnThru
Well-known member
Recovered the garage stool. One of the Craftsman stools that many of you will remember being on sale a few years ago as a pair. My oldest has one in his room and I have already recovered it using the same materials and method. The padding on the stool consisted of about a quarter inch of foam. I had four cheap outdoor cushions that we really didn't need anymore. So they were sacrificed for extra padding on his stool previously and today on mine. The cover came from Bar Stool Covers via Amazon. They aren't necessarily the cheapest but this is the second time I've ordered from them and the quality is good. Also, made in the USA.
As I type this in the garage, my **** is thanking me.
As I type this in the garage, my **** is thanking me.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
So far de-rusting small stove parts. I need to setup for the bigger sheet metal
Its in the 80's so not enthused about being outside..
Its in the 80's so not enthused about being outside..
619DioFan
Well-known member
You leaving cali ? where ya heading ?
Magnum440d100
Well-known member
Headed to Indiana, just outside of Indianapolis. I am buying a house 2x as big, and a duplex for rental income, and STILL have money left over.
I have tossed quite a bit, but the hard part is going to be getting 6 vehicles over there!
mvusse
Well-known member
Finally got all three (1.25" diameter) bolts out:
500 or so pound top block off:
Three metric $#!t tonne main block off:
And finally have good access to remove the leaky radiator.
That cherry picker has an 8000 pound capacity.
500 or so pound top block off:
Three metric $#!t tonne main block off:
And finally have good access to remove the leaky radiator.
That cherry picker has an 8000 pound capacity.
Outlander
Well-known member
Yeah, that can sometimes turn out VERY wrong...
Tommy
I tell my wife to "get her boyfriend out early in case I come home". So far the only reaction I get is the standard "don't be an a$$hole" which I retort with: "I'm your a$$hole"
ClappedOutBport
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 30, 2016
- Messages
- 998
Finally got all three (1.25" diameter) bolts out:
That cherry picker has an 8000 pound capacity.
Dad's got a very similar cherry picker, except it uses a hydraulic ram with a seperate 2 speed pump and reservoir like you'd find on a shop press, and no safety catch. Same frame though. Very capable engine hoist for sure.
rshadd
Well-known member
Replaced the worn out belts and idler tire on my vintage Nakamichi RX-202 Unidirectional Cassette Deck.
BajaScout
Well-known member
Nakamichi...Those were the days!
rayra
Well-known member
well unfortunately I needed to down tools on the backyard wood refinishing stuff and switch hats to 'plumber' as our water heater sprung a seam. By the looks of the water damage and a tiny bit of mold, it was probably seeping for at least a week before the water spread enough on the pedestal for us to notice it this past Tues. morning.
The 5-ish level quakes we felt from the big Ridgecrest earthquakes might have hastened the demise of our 9.5yr-old heater.
Home warranty co's referred plumber wanted $1050 to bring the system up to code, before they or the warranty co. would warranty anything. Catch pan piped to daylight, gas line replace and revision to a 'sediment trap' design, new feed lines and an expansion tank on top of the proper preesure relief plumbed to daylight which we already had. All that stuff I could buy retail at Home Depot for $170.
Warranty Co wouldn't insure or reimburse a replacement water heater unless a licensed contractor did the work. Nor warranty a new heater going forward, unless a licensee did the work. This even if I pulled a permit (required in my jurisdixtion) and did the work myself and the city signed off on the work.
So we fired everybody and I did the work myself. In truth over the decades we hadn't got a lot of value out of the warranty program as I've been capable of doing almost all the needed work myself.
So I pulled the old heater, dried the corner out with a box fan, sprayed a bleach solution on everything and let it soak and again dried. Primered everything. Set a drain pan and bear-hugged the new 50gal tank into place, plumbed the drain pan thru the exterior wall. Built the 'sediment trap' for $8.50, which the plumbers wanted $75 to do. Got everything strapped down and hooked up. Next week or two I'll add the expansion tank up top and change / add the cutoff valves up there. Plumber quoted $250 for an expansion tank I can get for $40. And $175 for 2 copper flex lines and new flex gas line, which I can buy in a cheap kit for $30. Overall they wanted a ~400% markup. They and the warranty co. priced themselves right out of our wallet. They can join the growing list of other 'subscription services' that we are cutting out of our finances.
The 5-ish level quakes we felt from the big Ridgecrest earthquakes might have hastened the demise of our 9.5yr-old heater.
Home warranty co's referred plumber wanted $1050 to bring the system up to code, before they or the warranty co. would warranty anything. Catch pan piped to daylight, gas line replace and revision to a 'sediment trap' design, new feed lines and an expansion tank on top of the proper preesure relief plumbed to daylight which we already had. All that stuff I could buy retail at Home Depot for $170.
Warranty Co wouldn't insure or reimburse a replacement water heater unless a licensed contractor did the work. Nor warranty a new heater going forward, unless a licensee did the work. This even if I pulled a permit (required in my jurisdixtion) and did the work myself and the city signed off on the work.
So we fired everybody and I did the work myself. In truth over the decades we hadn't got a lot of value out of the warranty program as I've been capable of doing almost all the needed work myself.
So I pulled the old heater, dried the corner out with a box fan, sprayed a bleach solution on everything and let it soak and again dried. Primered everything. Set a drain pan and bear-hugged the new 50gal tank into place, plumbed the drain pan thru the exterior wall. Built the 'sediment trap' for $8.50, which the plumbers wanted $75 to do. Got everything strapped down and hooked up. Next week or two I'll add the expansion tank up top and change / add the cutoff valves up there. Plumber quoted $250 for an expansion tank I can get for $40. And $175 for 2 copper flex lines and new flex gas line, which I can buy in a cheap kit for $30. Overall they wanted a ~400% markup. They and the warranty co. priced themselves right out of our wallet. They can join the growing list of other 'subscription services' that we are cutting out of our finances.
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BajaScout
Well-known member
I moved mine outside years ago. Opened up a little more garage space and if there is an earthquake the water will just drain down to the ocean.
I located it very near to where the gas line enters the house. Bought one of those water heater enclosures from HD. Thinking I must just paint it black to help keep the water hot. Save on my $25/month gas bill.
I located it very near to where the gas line enters the house. Bought one of those water heater enclosures from HD. Thinking I must just paint it black to help keep the water hot. Save on my $25/month gas bill.
LS6 Tommy
Well-known member
Just FYI- You need to replace the PVC on the T&P valve with CPVC, or better yet, copper. PVC doesn't meet code.
Tommy
ClappedOutBport
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 30, 2016
- Messages
- 998
While you may be techincally correct, that pipe is really only ever going to see use one time before it's replacement. So...
rayra
Well-known member
yeah I know. The prior heater had a top-mounted valve, the flex line wouldn't reach the new side-mounted valve location. I'll extend it around the back-top and connect it properly next week. The PVC is temp / better than nothing. Like I said, dealing with the upper end code stuff next week
eta
That old unattached flex in the back goes to in-wall plumbing and out at the bottom sill, the painted elbow in my earlier outside pic. I'll probably put a union on the end of it and tie the new T&P with a new copper flex that's long enough to bridge the gap. And probably find out it's not supposed to be plumbed upward from the valve.
eta no pressure, PVC is good to 140F, only 100F when under pressure. CPVC is rated at 180F either way.
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stonesfan68
Well-known member
My 16-year old son and I replaced a heater control valve in his Explorer. It wasn't a bad job, but man it was hot here at 95F and 60% humidity!
LS6 Tommy
Well-known member
Pfft! It was hotter and more humid than that here at 8:00 this morning.
Of course, you guys probably average much higher temps than we do mall the rest of the time.
Tommy
welder4956
Well-known member
Put up more OSB on the walls. Man it is hot out there! Even with a 30" fan going and frequent water breaks I was soaked after the first 30 minutes.
I tossed the A/C window unit in this morning and turned it on... While it was cooling down, I went in the house and changed out the motor control board on the washing machine to fix it. Then I went back out and started working on the rocker panel on a Jeep Liberty... Going to be a pain in the ***, but I made good progress on 1 side. Then my brother needed help, so I went to his house and ran electric for his new garage and wired his sub-panel into the main.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Started de-rusting the Stove's box last night but that's mostly waiting for it to be "done" in the soup except for intermediate scrubs and tuning the box... (its laying one side at a time in less than an inch of Evaporust)
My son and two of his friends came over and helped reassemble the tent trailer from cargo trailer mode, and we moved both of them.
My son and two of his friends came over and helped reassemble the tent trailer from cargo trailer mode, and we moved both of them.
Been practicing what seems to be a lost art the last few days. Replacing the glazing putty on several windows. They needed the paint stripped off too. Couple weeks of dry time and a little paint and it will be ready for another 20 years.
Plastikosmd
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 17, 2016
- Messages
- 1,254
Retension a torsion garage door spring for one of the 20’ doors and got ready to load the parts OC3 onto new owner’s trailer
LS6 Tommy
Well-known member
Been practicing what seems to be a lost art the last few days. Replacing the glazing putty on several windows. They needed the paint stripped off too. Couple weeks of dry time and a little paint and it will be ready for another 20 years.
All of my garage windowsneed to be scraped, sanded and reputtied, too. They're fized windows. I reglazed and puttied one pane in a basement hopper window many years ago. I'm not sure I want to deal with four 3' x 4' windows. It might be easier to have them replaced with replacement doublehung windows.
Tommy
gmwelder86
Well-known member
well unfortunately I needed to down tools on the backyard wood refinishing stuff and switch hats to 'plumber' as our water heater sprung a seam. By the looks of the water damage and a tiny bit of mold, it was probably seeping for at least a week before the water spread enough on the pedestal for us to notice it this past Tues. morning.
The 5-ish level quakes we felt from the big Ridgecrest earthquakes might have hastened the demise of our 9.5yr-old heater.
Home warranty co's referred plumber wanted $1050 to bring the system up to code, before they or the warranty co. would warranty anything. Catch pan piped to daylight, gas line replace and revision to a 'sediment trap' design, new feed lines and an expansion tank on top of the proper preesure relief plumbed to daylight which we already had. All that stuff I could buy retail at Home Depot for $170.
Warranty Co wouldn't insure or reimburse a replacement water heater unless a licensed contractor did the work. Nor warranty a new heater going forward, unless a licensee did the work. This even if I pulled a permit (required in my jurisdixtion) and did the work myself and the city signed off on the work.
So we fired everybody and I did the work myself. In truth over the decades we hadn't got a lot of value out of the warranty program as I've been capable of doing almost all the needed work myself.
So I pulled the old heater, dried the corner out with a box fan, sprayed a bleach solution on everything and let it soak and again dried. Primered everything. Set a drain pan and bear-hugged the new 50gal tank into place, plumbed the drain pan thru the exterior wall. Built the 'sediment trap' for $8.50, which the plumbers wanted $75 to do. Got everything strapped down and hooked up. Next week or two I'll add the expansion tank up top and change / add the cutoff valves up there. Plumber quoted $250 for an expansion tank I can get for $40. And $175 for 2 copper flex lines and new flex gas line, which I can buy in a cheap kit for $30. Overall they wanted a ~400% markup. They and the warranty co. priced themselves right out of our wallet. They can join the growing list of other 'subscription services' that we are cutting out of our finances.
Expansion tank is only needed if your running a closed loop system. Other wise your plumbing system will just feed expanding hot water back into the cold water. If you had a recirculating punk with a check valve than a expansion tank would be required but for a basic tanker hot water heater he is just trying to make money off you. And the amount water expands at that temp your not going to be loosing much back into the cold line at all.
driftpin
Well-known member
Nothing awesome, I knocked together a heavy-duty dolly for whatever I need to move. I suspect I may use it for a motorcycle engine, or a wheels-removed bike frame, making easier storage. 2x4's, 2x6's, 4" pivoting caster wheels w/locks, 1/4" X 4" galvanized carriage bolts, flat washers, nuts. I used scrap lumber I had lying-around, and wheels I already had, but the hardware I got from Big Orange Box, enough to do two dollys. I have a second set of ball-bearing caster wheels w/brakes too, also the lumber.
I saw this beer on-sale at the supermarket, I like bock beer so I bought a 12-pack. Not bad at-all, it's from Guatemala. Es muy delcioso!
I saw this beer on-sale at the supermarket, I like bock beer so I bought a 12-pack. Not bad at-all, it's from Guatemala. Es muy delcioso!
Attachments
BajaScout
Well-known member
My understanding is bock beer is for cold weather.
LS6 Tommy
Well-known member
Nothing. Still too friggin' hot.
Tommy
Tommy
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Finished the 2 position door prop for the Camp box (Deft)
Kept rotating and periodically scrubbing the Stove box - nearly there!
Topped off and trickle charged the "new" battery for the daughter's zuk project
Put stuff away
Cut and sanded cedar shingle for use as stove shims for leveling the things on un-level tables.
Kept rotating and periodically scrubbing the Stove box - nearly there!
Topped off and trickle charged the "new" battery for the daughter's zuk project
Put stuff away
Cut and sanded cedar shingle for use as stove shims for leveling the things on un-level tables.
Double0fox
Member
Tried some more Aluminum welding today. I am just trying to self learn, and anyone who saw my welds would be able to tell this.
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Outlawmws
Well-known member
Tried some more Aluminum welding today. I am just trying to self learn, and anyone who saw my welds would be able to tell this.
you need to take the "S" out of HTTPS for Imgur to work here