What do you guys with a lift use for an oil pan

[like2wheel]

I'm trying to come up with a simple design that would drain directly into gallon/5qt jugs. Don't want to move it twice, & just want to drop the jugs off & not have to wait to get my can back covered in oil.

 

[jumpstart]

I'm trying to come up with a simple design that would drain directly into gallon/5qt jugs. Don't want to move it twice, & just want to drop the jugs off & not have to wait to get my can back covered in oil.

One of the valves that screws in the drain plug port with a rubber tube that slips on it would be easy enough.

 

[dagofast]

Ok guys...here it is. To the right, the quick connect for the compressor line. I put a valve here to cut the incoming air off.

To the left, I installed a "T", with the factory installed blow-off valve at the far end and a valve sticking up. This valve allows me to vent any pressure in the tank.

When the valve with the blue handle is opened, it takes just a moment to shed the tank's pressure.

Now, a pic of the aforementioned incident wasn't taken. It wasn't a big splatter, but more a bunch of little dots of oil.....

That looks like a nice set up. But have you used it yet? Because I wonder; if "burping" open the large ball valve in the drain tube caused oil shoot to shoot upwards causing a big mess, won't opening the blue handled valve to depressurize the tank do the same, only through a smaller ¼" opening?

I ask because I haven't attempted to use the vented ball valve I installed on mine yet. And it has an even smaller opening, maybe ⅛" or so, pointing down towards the tank.

And one final note to anyone that buys the HF oil drain: I'd ignore the bit in the instructions about never attempting to adjust the air regulator. I followed those instructions only to find that Sum Ting Wrong at the factory had set the regulator on mine at WFO and had installed a small sheetmetal screw locking it in place. As you can imagine, charging that tank at essentially full shop airline pressure made the oil evacuate the tank at a tremendous velocity. It overwhelmed a 5 quart jug in just seconds and the resulting geyser of oil was probably as splendiferous a sight as Old Faithful. I wouldn't know. I was coated in oil from head to toe and scrambling to make it stop.

Needless to say, that little locking screw has been removed and my regulator has been cranked out to the lowest setting and will only cautiously and slowly be increased when I've snapped together enough airline to roll this tank out in to the middle of nowhere (the street?) for my second attempt to empty it. I'm not making the same mistake twice and plugging in an air hose to this potential oil bomb inside my shop again. I'm gonna have at least two empty 5 gallon jerry cans open and waiting too.

 

[Diesel Dan]

I have this 8-gallon one made by Lisle. Works great for me.

Same here.

 

[PoorOwner]

Like most I have also made a mistake using it the first time. The momentum of 18 gallon tank pressurized to 15 psi pushing oil is alot.

I put a valve at the output. Mine has a check valve so oil doesn't go to the funnel part.

Buys me time to put the spout back onto the funnel to bleed off the pressure, or at the air ******.


But, go VERY slow, because at first oil isn't going to come out, and then the PSI builds up there is suddenly alot of energy.

 

[Matt M PA]

That looks like a nice set up. But have you used it yet? Because I wonder; if "burping" open the large ball valve in the drain tube caused oil shoot to shoot upwards causing a big mess, won't opening the blue handled valve to depressurize the tank do the same, only through a smaller ¼" opening?

I ask because I haven't attempted to use the vented ball valve I installed on mine yet. And it has an even smaller opening, maybe ⅛" or so, pointing down towards the tank.

And one final note to anyone that buys the HF oil drain: I'd ignore the bit in the instructions about never attempting to adjust the air regulator. I followed those instructions only to find that Sum Ting Wrong at the factory had set the regulator on mine at WFO and had installed a small sheetmetal screw locking it in place. As you can imagine, charging that tank at essentially full shop airline pressure made the oil evacuate the tank at a tremendous velocity. It overwhelmed a 5 quart jug in just seconds and the resulting geyser of oil was probably as splendiferous a sight as Old Faithful. I wouldn't know. I was coated in oil from head to toe and scrambling to make it stop.

Needless to say, that little locking screw has been removed and my regulator has been cranked out to the lowest setting and will only cautiously and slowly be increased when I've snapped together enough airline to roll this tank out in to the middle of nowhere (the street?) for my second attempt to empty it. I'm not making the same mistake twice and plugging in an air hose to this potential oil bomb inside my shop again. I'm gonna have at least two empty 5 gallon jerry cans open and waiting too.

Nope, never a problem with it venting out the new valve. I've been using it that way for many years. Not even a drop. The added valves are all the way at the top, and don't have oil draining into them like the vertical tube that holds the funnel.

That being said, I only left enough air in...and stop with the "incoming" valve,...to get the oil to start moving. Then, will give it another little bit if it slows or stops. I usually pump it out into the 5qt containers the oil came in. As the container fills...open the "vent" valve and within a few seconds, the flow stops. Again, I think its important to only put enough air in to make it work...not flow out like crazy.

 

[AMCguy]

It's the routine tasks made easier that makes owning a lift so cool.

Here's mine. It's an old Lincoln Drainmobile. Got it for free from the local GM dealer

Glenn

 

[lemmy999]

One of the valves that screws in the drain plug port with a rubber tube that slips on it would be easy enough.

That is what I was planning on doing. I already have one of these on my walk behind mower and plan on putting them on all of my cars. This way I can continue to just drain it in to the same 5 gallon bucket I have used to haul off oil for years and there is no splatter and I don't have to find a spot for the oil drain dolly. But the only issue would be the oil filter.

 

[Wes Tex]

I just set one of my drain pans on top of my transmission jack and adjust the height to fit the vehicle. Don't over engineer things, and keep it simple.

 

[albaran]

I got something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SR7TM/?tag=atomicindus08-20

What I like is the fact that the container is translucent so you can see how much oil is in it. Could be cheaper someplace else.

 

[dagofast]

Like most I have also made a mistake using it the first time. The momentum of 18 gallon tank pressurized to 15 psi pushing oil is alot.

I put a valve at the output. Mine has a check valve so oil doesn't go to the funnel part.

Buys me time to put the spout back onto the funnel to bleed off the pressure, or at the air ******.


But, go VERY slow, because at first oil isn't going to come out, and then the PSI builds up there is suddenly alot of energy.

Dang, I really like this idea! A valve is a great idea. Or something like a fuel dispenser handle.

 

[sjvicker]

I put a 5 gallon bucket on my weld table and roll it underneath. My garage is small and this way I didn't need anything special purpose taking up my space.

Sent from my SM-T560NU using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[R. Deschain]

Ok guys...here it is. To the right, the quick connect for the compressor line. I put a valve here to cut the incoming air off.

To the left, I installed a "T", with the factory installed blow-off valve at the far end and a valve sticking up. This valve allows me to vent any pressure in the tank.

When the valve with the blue handle is opened, it takes just a moment to shed the tank's pressure.

Now, a pic of the aforementioned incident wasn't taken. It wasn't a big splatter, but more a bunch of little dots of oil.....

Thank you!

 

[Bad00SS]

Every one I've read reviews on have 25% of people saying it leaks somewhere. Checked 5 different brands. Even the metal harbor freight ones say the seem at the bottom where the metal is welded leaks and you'll have a quart on the floor in a weeks time if its left full that long. Some plastic ones the wheels were breaking off and leaking out of the hole where it bolts on. Nothing seemed perfect. Took a chance on this one. Wish me luck. I'll know more in a few months I guess.

https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-87032-Portable-Upright-Changing/dp/B0797F7WDS/ref=sr_1_43?keywords=oil+drain&qid=1564758173&s=gateway&sr=8-43

 

[MBfreak]

I made a real mess 45 years ago, still painful to remember.
I was changing oil on my 2,3 l MB engine while very hot.
Used a 25 lit metal can with a metal funnel to catch the oil.
The funnel had no sieve and just a 20 mm downpipe.
I rigged the metal can to match up with the handheld funnel and the drain plug. Oil was probably 95 C. Unscrewed the plug , it was really hot and dropped it into the funnel.
The funnel downpipe was blocked by the oil,plug and 6 litres of VErY hot oil came everywhere, most of it landed on the floor. But at least half a litre was soaked up in my clothes and I got a first degree burn area over my chest.

So, no more cheap small funnels. Buy a big one with a large coarse metal sieve that a dropped oil plug can not block.

Ola

 

[MattRMagnum]

My lift is lower than most, I think (I can only get cars ~4ft in the air), and so I've been using 2 saw horses, a piece of junk wood, and a traditional oil pan. Total cost was $0, since it was all stuff I already owned, and it means I've one less piece of super-specialized equipment to keep around.

 

[sberry]

Yes, I agree with coming up with something easy and easy to store. A lot of people can go a long time between changes. Not worth it for a couple a year.

 

[Bruce Amacker]

No picture handy but I use a 14" funnel (from an oil drain setup like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lisle-1130...023189&hash=item2abd00be46:g:jxgAAOSw6fBcXDNH ) glued to a piece of 1" conduit and stuck into a 5 gallon pail through the pour hole. Bucket gets full, pull it out and set it in an extra empty bucket. Repeat as needed, when you get 5-8 buckets full throw them in your truck and take them to a guy with a waste oil furnace. Easy peezy.

 

[don long]

I found this one in a junk metal salvage yard. I took it home and cleaned it up a bit

After sand blasting it.

2018-11-26 10.09.32 by don long, on Flickr

Then I gave it a fresh coat of color.

2019-07-31 14.04.26 by don long, on Flickr

The funnel is adjustable for height and the oil goes into a 16 gallon drum inside the cabinet.


.

 

[ghlkal]

Then I gave it a fresh coat of color.

Wow, that looks great. Nice work

 

[clinebarger]

That looks like a nice set up. But have you used it yet? Because I wonder; if "burping" open the large ball valve in the drain tube caused oil shoot to shoot upwards causing a big mess, won't opening the blue handled valve to depressurize the tank do the same, only through a smaller ¼" opening?

I ask because I haven't attempted to use the vented ball valve I installed on mine yet. And it has an even smaller opening, maybe ⅛" or so, pointing down towards the tank.

And one final note to anyone that buys the HF oil drain: I'd ignore the bit in the instructions about never attempting to adjust the air regulator. I followed those instructions only to find that Sum Ting Wrong at the factory had set the regulator on mine at WFO and had installed a small sheetmetal screw locking it in place. As you can imagine, charging that tank at essentially full shop airline pressure made the oil evacuate the tank at a tremendous velocity. It overwhelmed a 5 quart jug in just seconds and the resulting geyser of oil was probably as splendiferous a sight as Old Faithful. I wouldn't know. I was coated in oil from head to toe and scrambling to make it stop.

Needless to say, that little locking screw has been removed and my regulator has been cranked out to the lowest setting and will only cautiously and slowly be increased when I've snapped together enough airline to roll this tank out in to the middle of nowhere (the street?) for my second attempt to empty it. I'm not making the same mistake twice and plugging in an air hose to this potential oil bomb inside my shop again. I'm gonna have at least two empty 5 gallon jerry cans open and waiting too.

I've seen a incident very similar to yours.....We had nice Ingersoll Rand oil drain caddys, With latching discharge hoses, Could safely charge them with 150/175 psi shop air.....Roll them to the 500 gallon used oil tanks & discharge them lickety split.

Enter new "green" guy....Drags a air hose all the way out to the waste oil barrels, Hooks up to the oil caddy with the discharge hose unlatched. The waste oil/brake fluid/brake cleaner/ATF/Gas/Diesel shot straight up in the air....Seemed like 50 feet at the time.
Then he tries to cover the discharge with both hands....So now it's spraying out sideways all over the place.

I ended up with the Oil Caddy involved in the incident as it was cursed after that....

You can regulate the discharge ball valve with a full air charge.

 

[dagofast]

Update. I found this relatively inexpensive dispenser handle on flea-bay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-4-Fill-R...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I think this, combined with the venting ball valve I procured from McMaster-Carr will prevent any future eco-disasters.

 

[kbuhagiar]

Lisle for me, too...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SR7TM/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[PoorOwner]

Here is another option I have used. Rockwell stand

 

[gnpenning]

Has anyone had experience with this type? How well does the small container and hoses evacuate fluids?


https://www.ebay.com/itm/20-Gallon-...ner-W-Wheel-Hose-Red-Oil-Change/254269647256?

 

[inane2]

Been using the 20 gallon HF since 2011 and it's been great. As mentioned before, the casters are decent. The first one I bought actually had one of the larger back wheels busted, right in the box. Returned it for another.

Quickly picked up the Lisle ****** drain and splash pad:

https://www.lislecorp.com/lubrication-and-tire-products/transmission-drain-funnel-445

https://www.lislecorp.com/lubrication-and-tire-products/no-splatter-pad-22-square

Also picked up the splash pad to sit right in the stock HF drain pan:

https://www.lislecorp.com/lubrication-and-tire-products/no-splatter-pad-15-round

Whatever trickery is in this pad is well worth the money. Prior to installing this, I've had oil hit the pan and go right up and over the other side. This pad 100% stops that. I got all 3 of these at Tooltopia.com as at the time, they were the cheapest.

 

[Ohmthis]

I found this one in a junk metal salvage yard. I took it home and cleaned it up a bit

After sand blasting it.

2018-11-26 10.09.32 by don long, on Flickr

Then I gave it a fresh coat of color.

2019-07-31 14.04.26 by don long, on Flickr

The funnel is adjustable for height and the oil goes into a 16 gallon drum inside the cabinet.


.

Don only you can make changing oil spectacular!!!

 

[Dureault_s]

Well here is mine, no where near as cool as “don long” but it works slick. Figured if I used this I would never try sandblasting with it again cause is was a POS. Just a few mods on a portable sandblaster and some paint to match the shop


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Higgins]

Using one from HF since 98 without any problems.............

 

[lemmy999]

I'm quickly running out of room in my garage. Up until I got my lift, I was just draining in to a floor pan then pour that in to a 5 gallon bucket. I was thinking of getting the Lisle, but that is just more floor space that I don't have. So I like the idea of just putting a drain pan or the 5 gallon bucket on a transmission jack because I have been wanting to get a transmission jack anyway. I have a low one that only goes up to about 22" and all of the rest of them seem to be about 45" minimum height. I have the Dannmar M-6 lift (similar to MaxJax) so the 45" minimum height is a little too tall. Does anyone know of any that are more like 20"-30" minimum height and isn't too expensive? They all seem to be 45" min height or 22" max height. Nothing in between.

 

[geoffro5]

I installed a ball valve to turn off incoming air and another to "vent" pressure just ahead of the blow-off valve. I can now regulate the air better.

What happened to me the first time I tried to evacuate? I put in more air than needed. I filled two big containers with the oil as it came out...and had no where to pump what was still coming. I had shut off the incoming air..but the oil drain tank still had pressure. So, I opened the big valve on top of the unit. For want of a better term...it "cleared" it's throat upwards and I spend the next hour cleaning up.

I can post a pic if wanted as to how I mounted the valves...

I have something like that too. I unplug the air and then only just crack the big valve. It gurgles but doesn’t spray oil out the top

 

[Shadowdog500]

I’ve had one of these Harbor freight 20 gallon under lift pans for about 9 years now and really like it. I only need to pump it out once or twice a year.

As other have said transferring the oil into containers without having it flow over is a learned skill and you have to shut off the air supply well before the oil gets to the top of the jug because the oil will keep flowing until the air pressure equalizes.

I transfer my oil into 5 gallon transparent ozzyjuice jugs. When the bottle is about halfway full I shut the air off to see how far the oil level rises. Then I turn the air back on and shut it off again so the oil level rise will stop a few inches short of the top. If it goes much more that that as a last resort I crack open the ball valve on the neck which immediately drops the pressure in the tank and stops the oil flow. The other thing I do is to put the jug on a table so the oil won’t continue to siphon if the oil tank is full.

The other thing I found is to remove the pressure regulator from the tank while not emptying the tank so the tank can vent. If you don’t the oil will slow down and will start backing up during your oil change once the oil level reaches the level of the bottom of the oil pan tube because the air above that point can’t get out of the tank fast enough because it is not really vented.

 

[jtbinvalrico]

HF unit.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

 

[rburke65]

Don long.....looking like a Pennzoil can

 

[kaymccampbell]

I have a mid rise lift, so I put my old floor pan on top of a rolling seat/cart/toolbox.

 

[maxpat82]

My plan when I'll have my lift is to buy a high lift transmission jack...and put tab/plate on it to use a regular drain pan.

multi-use tool.....the transmission jack can be use to lift/keep a bunch of stuff under a vehicule. (diff, exhaust, etc,etc,)
can even be used as a tool holder with a rack on it.

 

[crf_kdx]

Yet another vote for the 8 gallon one by Lisle.

 

[brownbagg]

five gallon bucket

 

[Shadowdog500]

Stanley Cup!

 

[Wes Tex]

Like several others have stated, I just put a drain pan on my transmission jack, adjust it to whatever height I want, and drain oil into it. I plug the drain hole in the top of the pan/container and haul it off to be recycled. It is too easy to do this way without having to store more equipment.