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Jumper cables

Bagherra

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Battery decided to die on me yesterday afternoon....

Called my niece for a jump....thought something was wrong with my truck because engine wouldn't turn over. Called roadside assistance and Pop-a-Lock showed up. He used one of those portable jumpers and engine turned right over.

My guess was the cables weren't large enough to carry the juice I needed.

On that note, can u guys recommend a good set of jumper cables and a portable jumper?

Thanx in advance!
 
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CJM8515

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Sometimes if the battery is too discharged you need to let the other car charge it for 20-30 mins.



As already recommended JNC660 is industry standard for towing/shops. Yes the lithium ones are nice and fancy. But the JNC is rugged and simple. FYI it has no on/off switch so its always live. Do not connect it backwards for this reason.


If you want cables-go to the parts store or even walmart and find the thickest ones you can.
 

LB-1911

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Battery decided to die on me yesterday afternoon....

Called my niece for a jump....thought something was wrong with my truck because engine wouldn't turn over. Called roadside assistance and Pop-a-Lock showed up. He used one of those portable jumpers and engine turned right over.

My guess was the cables weren't large enough to carry the juice I needed.

On that note, can u guys recommend a good set of jumper cables and a portable jumper?

Thanx in advance!

Deka Booster Cables Mfr # 00183 - 20 ft / 2 Gauge / pure cooper

:beer:

Edit to add:
Polar Wire

We make our Jumper Cables exclusively with ARCTIC SUPERFLEX BLUE® 100% Copper Double Conductor Cable for unmatched performance. Unlike most jumper cables, ours are built hands-on here in the USA, using quality-first construction techniques to produce the most rugged and reliable jumper cables on the market!

ARCTIC SUPERFLEX BLUE® BOOSTER CABLE SYSTEMS


4 GAUGE JUMPER CABLES

2 GAUGE JUMPER CABLES
 
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Showkey

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I have this jump box - don't use the cables anymore.....
https://www.tooltopia.com/solar-jnc660.aspx

Buckaroo

Same........no jumper cables. Jump box lithium or conventional.

Modern car charging system may not like jumping .........if things go wrong it gets expensive quickly. Things like polarity ( user error) , like the dead vehicle has dead short or any other crazy issue.

If you think things can’t go wrong jumping.......hang around the service area on real cold day.......”it fine until I jumped my neighbors truck”
 

tez929rr

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I carry a couple of different lithium jump packs depending on the vehicle. Larger one in my truck (99 V10): Bolt D29, and different Antigravity models in the 4 cylinder vehicles. Never any starting issues.

I carry a really old set of Sears jumper cables in my truck and I bought the wife a set of Michelin cables that have a control box - hookup polarity doesn’t matter. I don’t think they make them anymore but they seem to work OK.
 

bwringer

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Just watch out for the ******** cheapass "CCA" cables and insist on copper wire -- CCA stands for "copper coated aluminum" wire. You need a lot more CCA wire to carry the same current. The labeling can be very tricky.

Anyhoo, if you're not jumping large trucks, a 20 foot set of 4 gauge cables will do everything you need in the car realm.

But honestly, I normally just carry a lithium ion jump pack. Takes up a lot less space.

That JNC box is very nice, but it's massive overkill unless you run a garage or junkyard and you're jump starting multiple large engines on a daily basis.
 

mike93lx

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Any jumper cables less than 2 AWG are useless. I like the 20 ft 2awg "Duralast" cables from autozone. They're pretty decent for the price.

Odd that my thinner cables have magically worked every time I have needed them. I think they are 8awg,maybe 6. Fits neatly under the passenger seat.
 

AA/FC

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As already mentioned above, the CCA jumper cables are absolute garbage. Unfortunately, about 99% of the jumper cables available online, or in stores are CCA. You really need to look hard to find pure copper cables today. And you'll know when you finally find a set because the price tag will let you know.

This is the set I bought a few years ago.... 20 foot, 1/0 aught, (these are larger than 1 gauge) 100% copper welding cable, made in USA. The price has gone up about 25 bucks since I bought my set. I researched this topic to death before I found these, but back then this was absolutely the best deal for quality cables. YMMV today, however.

https://www.fleetfarm.com/detail/deka-super-heavy-duty-booster-cables/0000000038096
 

G1GRANDEUR

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if battery is too low, it will not crank over right away with jumper cable.

I have noco gb40 and i was able to start flat dead battery car :)
 

mike93lx

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As already mentioned above, the CCA jumper cables are absolute garbage. Unfortunately, about 99% of the jumper cables available online, or in stores are CCA. You really need to look hard to find pure copper cables today. And you'll know when you finally find a set because the price tag will let you know.

This is the set I bought a few years ago.... 20 foot, 1/0 aught, (these are larger than 1 gauge) 100% copper welding cable, made in USA. The price has gone up about 25 bucks since I bought my set. I researched this topic to death before I found these, but back then this was absolutely the best deal for quality cables. YMMV today, however.

https://www.fleetfarm.com/detail/deka-super-heavy-duty-booster-cables/0000000038096

You must be jumping a lot of dead, large equipment to justify hauling those around all the time. That's way beyond what most people need.
 

Jazz1

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I had to remove clamps and clean up a set of old heavy duty booster cables. The copper had lot of black “corrosion” at clamps. Made a world of difference
 

RKA

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If you want a portable jump pack, why do you need cables? (the jump pack comes with clamps and cables to attach to the main unit)

Here is a quick summary of your options for jump packs. Someone can chime in if I misstated anything or they have more thoughts to add. With the portable units, you have 2 choices. A lead acid or AGM battery like the JNC unit mentioned above. These are rock solid and work well in cold weather. For $100-120 you can get one that will start most cars and some light trucks (JNC660). They are rated in CCA so you can easily size to your intended application. They hold a charge for well over 3 months (mine was down to 12V after one year). But, they are a little on the heavy side (20-25lbs) and are somewhat sizable compared to the new lithium units. Longevity is pretty good on these (6-7 yrs) and you can get the battery replaced in them when it's time. But with the shipping cost back to the manufacturer, it's arguably not economical vs. going on Amazon and getting a new one shipped to your door for $100.

The second option are the lithium units. Quality is all over the map and there are lots of unheard of brands peddling their latest lithium jump packs. Even with a known good brand it seems like there are some duds. Cold weather performance is poor in the sense, if you leave it in a cold car parked outside, it's going to have a reduced capacity initially. But, if you make a few attempts to jump the car and it fails, 3-4 discharge cycles will warm up the battery quickly, which will help performance. Sizing to your application is more difficult as well, since they all rate their packs using more obscure marketing numbers rather than CCA. Some will give you some upper limits on the size and type of engine it can jump, but this almost always assumes there is some charge left on your battery. I would expect these units to lose charge faster than the first option above (but I haven't been able to verify how often they should be recharged). They are obviously smaller. Price can vary from just under $100 up to $200. It does seem like the lithium packs are maturing into a useful product now (I finally switched to them this year). Initially when they were released, they were largely not capable of starting a car unless the battery was just a little shy of what the starter needed. Longevity of these units are an unknown I think. I would speculate 5 years give or take.

There is one more option called a supercapacitor. They are around the $300 price point. They use a cap to gather the energy in your existing battery and they can release a very short burst of energy to your car to get it started. But if the battery is completely dead, this won't help you, where the other two options above will likely get the car with a dead battery started (assuming you sized the jump pack correctly).
 

Lucid Moments

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If you really want jumper cables (I do prefer them) then look here for all American pure copper wire with high quality clamps. They have a variety to suite your needs from the 4 gauge that I linked for normal cars and p/u's all the way up to stuff for jumping off your tractor trailer.
 

Professional Tool User

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It has nothing to do with the thickness of the cable. As long as the cables don't overheat due to high resistance, they will work fine. Any battery that is seriously discharged will need to be hooked up to the other vehicle for at least a few minutes to charge up before it can start.
 
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Professional Tool User

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As already mentioned above, the CCA jumper cables are absolute garbage. Unfortunately, about 99% of the jumper cables available online, or in stores are CCA. You really need to look hard to find pure copper cables today. And you'll know when you finally find a set because the price tag will let you know.

This is the set I bought a few years ago.... 20 foot, 1/0 aught, (these are larger than 1 gauge) 100% copper welding cable, made in USA. The price has gone up about 25 bucks since I bought my set. I researched this topic to death before I found these, but back then this was absolutely the best deal for quality cables. YMMV today, however.

https://www.fleetfarm.com/detail/deka-super-heavy-duty-booster-cables/0000000038096

What exactly are you trying to jump? If you happen to live in an old house and think aluminum is useless as a conductor, then spend the money and go rewire the house.
 

yrly

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If you’re near an Ollie’s they might (most likely do) have some nice 2g cables for $20. They’ve had various brands, popular mechanics, Napa, diehard over the last two years. I got a set for every car.

Edit: if no one else mentioned it make your own out of welding cable works and you can make it as long as you want.
 
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woody 73

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Funny thing happened to me a few weeks ago, I had jumped enough cars with my No. 6 cables that I trusted them very much. Long story short version but out of the blue my son need a jump and for the life of me nothing I did would work. A call to triple A and he came over with a jump pack and that car cranked over and was up and running.

Question for all you wise overlords of the highway just how long do those jump packs work, 6 months, one year, 5 years, forever?:dunno::dunno::dunno:
 

CJM8515

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Funny thing happened to me a few weeks ago, I had jumped enough cars with my No. 6 cables that I trusted them very much. Long story short version but out of the blue my son need a jump and for the life of me nothing I did would work. A call to triple A and he came over with a jump pack and that car cranked over and was up and running.

Question for all you wise overlords of the highway just how long do those jump packs work, 6 months, one year, 5 years, forever?:dunno::dunno::dunno:
A jnc pack? Ive had 2 of them for years, one used professionally. Just make sure its charged and your good to go. Also the batteries are replaceable in them.
 

ChrisLS8

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For your average car it doesn't surprise me to see some people recommending some crazy 200 dollar, 55lb 0 gauge wires. I've been using some 6 gauge ones for about 10 years now I got from Walmart and have never failed to jump a car with em
 

AA/FC

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What exactly are you trying to jump? If you happen to live in an old house and think aluminum is useless as a conductor, then spend the money and go rewire the house.

I never said aluminum was useless. It just needs to be sized correctly to carry a given load. This thread is about jumper cables, not house wiring. Aluminum jumper cables ****.
 

mike93lx

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For your average car it doesn't surprise me to see some people recommending some crazy 200 dollar, 55lb 0 gauge wires. I've been using some 6 gauge ones for about 10 years now I got from Walmart and have never failed to jump a car with em

Same here, except mine are from harbor freight. Have never failed to start a car with a dead battery
 

AA/FC

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You must be jumping a lot of dead, large equipment to justify hauling those around all the time.
Correct, that is exactly what I use them for. However, I can usually get by with one or two JNC660's connected. One time I had these cables from my truck, and two JNCC660's all connected to a machine just to get it to spin over. It still took a bunch of liquid courage (starting fluid) to get it fired. This was on a -28F morning (actual temp, before wind factor) and the machine had not been plugged in. That is an extreme case though..... normally I just use one 660 to start 99.9% of the calls I go on.


That's way beyond what most people need.

Whats wrong with having a quality tool? Where does it say that people can only buy what will barely get the job done? Just because the 1/0 cables are overkill doesn't mean people shouldn't have them... Most people could get by with a 12 volt cordless drill, but some people go nuts and buy an 18 volt. Most people would never need more than a 5 lb maul, but I know a few guys who have gone crazy and purchased sledgehammers. I coukd keep going but Im sure you get my point. :)
 

mike93lx

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Correct, that is exactly what I use them for. However, I can usually get by with one or two JNC660's connected. One time I had these cables from my truck, and two JNCC660's all connected to a machine just to get it to spin over. It still took a bunch of liquid courage (starting fluid) to get it fired. This was on a -28F morning (actual temp, before wind factor) and the machine had not been plugged in. That is an extreme case though..... normally I just use one 660 to start 99.9% of the calls I go on.




Whats wrong with having a quality tool? Where does it say that people can only buy what will barely get the job done? Just because the 1/0 cables are overkill doesn't mean people shouldn't have them... Most people could get by with a 12 volt cordless drill, but some people go nuts and buy an 18 volt. Most people would never need more than a 5 lb maul, but I know a few guys who have gone crazy and purchased sledgehammers. I coukd keep going but Im sure you get my point. :)

Yeah, that's way beyond just buying a "quality tool", but keep doing what you are doing if it makes you happy.

I would rather have a compact set of cables with me at all times than have to take them out of my car at times due to their bulk. Different strokes
 

AA/FC

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Yeah, that's way beyond just buying a "quality tool", but keep doing what you are doing if it makes you happy.

I would rather have a compact set of cables with me at all times than have to take them out of my car at times due to their bulk. Different strokes

Way beyond? We're talking about $150 set of cables here. Not some multi thousand-dollar piece of machinery. Its 2019, that's not a lot of money....

These cables and my three JNC660's have LOOONG paid for themselves and have made me thousands of dollars. I will absolutely keep doing what I'm doing.
 

shawhite

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I personally find that the weak point in cheap cables are the clamps. I prefer parrot clamps. Either way any decent cables will get the job done. I have jumped my 7500 work truck with everything from cheap Walmart 6 gauge cables to #6 bare copper or #6 bare aluminum what ever I have handy. A lot of overhead power lines are aluminum so it must be a pretty decent conductor.
 

mike93lx

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Way beyond? We're talking about $150 set of cables here. Not some multi thousand-dollar piece of machinery. Its 2019, that's not a lot of money....

These cables and my three JNC660's have LOOONG paid for themselves and have made me thousands of dollars. I will absolutely keep doing what I'm doing.

Awesome, glad to hear
 

refried

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About 25 or 30 years ago I had about half a roll of 1 or 1/0 AWG tinned battery cable left over from a job, I figured it was a good time to make a longer set of cables (already had a 8' pair of 1ga.) and took what was left of the roll and made a 26' pair of cables with the best clamps I could find at the time. They were long enough to start most boats with my golf cart on the dock and I can't think of a time they failed to start even the most stubborn diesel. I used to call them my $200 cables, It's probably almost twice that for the cable now.
 
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exmaxima1

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I never said aluminum was useless. It just needs to be sized correctly to carry a given load. This thread is about jumper cables, not house wiring. Aluminum jumper cables ****.

The resistance of CCA wire is very close to 2 wire gauge sizes (about 60%) higher than copper. So "4 gauge" CCA is equal to 6 gauge copper. The problem is that most Asian import cables use their own "Gauge" instead of our AWG (unless the specs clearly say AWG). In my experience, add another 2 gauge sizes to the equation, so 4 "Asian Gauge" CCA is equal to 8 American Wire Gauge copper.

I'm a speaker engineer and we use CCA wire for voice coils in special applications: Reduces moving mass. It's a ***** to solder, but using crimps it is just as reliable as copper.
 

mbshop

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Jumper cables for me . At least 20 ft 4 gauge solid copper wire will do. If you tend to jump trucks then a lower gauge. The 16 ft set i have from my shop used to crank over dead mb diesels. Good enough. The hint about waiting after connecting the cables for maybe 5 minutes makes a big differance.
 

harley jim

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As mentioned a couple of times already I made a set from heavy welding cable. In the 70s I was a diesel mechanic. I had a 75 chevy 1 ton I used for a service truck. I made the cables long enough to go from my battery to the battery of another truck while parked behind it on the interstate, I did not like doing u-turns on chicago toll ways. So there about 20 ft. long and They are still in great shape 45 years later. They rollup and fit under the seat in my 2005 Dodge ram. Old ******** guy.

Sent from my SM-A102U using Tapatalk
 

AA/FC

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The resistance of CCA wire is very close to 2 wire gauge sizes (about 60%) higher than copper. So "4 gauge" CCA is equal to 6 gauge copper. The problem is that most Asian import cables use their own "Gauge" instead of our AWG (unless the specs clearly say AWG). In my experience, add another 2 gauge sizes to the equation, so 4 "Asian Gauge" CCA is equal to 8 American Wire Gauge copper.

I'm a speaker engineer and we use CCA wire for voice coils in special applications: Reduces moving mass. It's a ***** to solder, but using crimps it is just as reliable as copper.


The general rule of thumb I use is.... you need to double the wire size in aluminum to do the same job as copper. Again, just my general rule. I'm not an electrician and I don't wire houses or buildings.

Again, aluminum jumper cables ****.
 

86gn

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As some others have said, make your own out of welding cable and clamps. I've got a pair over 30 years old and are still just as pliable as they were when new.
 
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