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dastardly

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There is a victor lawn mower somewhere around to make you want to come back to your roots, how long have you been awol
 

dastardly

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The pictures don’t do it any justice it looks so much better I real life, it looks like I will be able to install a needle roller thrust race on the cone pulley on the gear end it will take all the force from turning and bronze shims on the chuck end to take up the slack, I can’t find any locally so will need to order from online and still need a motor would a modern 3hp be big enough, the modern motors don’t seem to have the same amount of torque the old school ones did Craig
 

RoninB4

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Small Weiler (German) LZ330 that was purchased new at the Machine Tool Show in Chicago in the 70's. It was the demo model, the factory reps didn't want to ship it back and offered it for a very low price. Minimal wear, bed section can be removed for larger swing, cuts inch/metric threads (with one gear change) a modest amount of tooling came with it. I'm the second owner.
 

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ClappedOutBport

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The pictures don’t do it any justice it looks so much better I real life, it looks like I will be able to install a needle roller thrust race on the cone pulley on the gear end it will take all the force from turning and bronze shims on the chuck end to take up the slack, I can’t find any locally so will need to order from online and still need a motor would a modern 3hp be big enough, the modern motors don’t seem to have the same amount of torque the old school ones did Craig


Overkill probably. You can get about 1HP reliably from a 2" belt, maybe a little more with high tension or a rubber belt.
 

dastardly

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Thanks ClappedOutBport I never thought about the slip using a flat belt, I was thinking about that lump of a chuck and all the weight getting her started, I have an old 1/4hp I’m going to install tomorrow just to give her a run to make sure everything works as it should without too much power to break anything, I will probably have to turn the headstock over by hand on startup, thank you for your reply Craig
 

ClappedOutBport

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No problem Craig. I don't have a lot of flat belt experience so maybe you can get some other opinions. I've got a 2" belt on my drill press with no tensioner, and it will bog the motor down, but in a sudden jam, slip and the motor will keep running. So it's just right. I know the south bend guys can only do about 1/2 HP on their 1" belts. 1HP is capable of doing a decent amount of work, especially on something that runs as slow as that.



I'm glad to see you saving the old girl, not a lot of sliding gap beds around. Did you ever figure out what brand it is?
 

Oregon rock crusher

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I been swamped this summer and haven't really had near as much GJ time as I'd like. It is neat to check in and see all of the really nice vintage lathes that have been posted lately.

On the topic of driving the old cone head lathes what's important to remember is that these things turned awfully slooow compared to modern lathes. Using a modern motor with an rpm of around 1700 rpm you would generally want to use a jack shaft just to get the speed down to an acceptable range. You could also do it with a vfd but at the sacrifice of torque.

Flat belts can transfer quite a lot of power so I like to easily be able to adjust how tight the are on the cone pulleys so the drive system will slip when overloaded and avoid broken parts or pull harder when I need it to.

Here are some pics of two different cone head drives. The first one started with a 2hp 1190 rpm motor and I was able to get the input speed down just with shieves. Flat belt tension is adjustable on it as well with a lever and pall system, like in the last picture, tucked under the bed. The second drive started with a 1700 rpm motor and it definitely needed a jack shaft with to get the rpm's down to speed. Most plain bearing cone heads, like Dasdardly's gap bed Barnes, only need a couple hundred rpm input speed....or less. Ed.
 

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dastardly

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No problem Craig. I don't have a lot of flat belt experience so maybe you can get some other opinions. I've got a 2" belt on my drill press with no tensioner, and it will bog the motor down, but in a sudden jam, slip and the motor will keep running. So it's just right. I know the south bend guys can only do about 1/2 HP on their 1" belts. 1HP is capable of doing a decent amount of work, especially on something that runs as slow as that.



I'm glad to see you saving the old girl, not a lot of sliding gap beds around. Did you ever figure out what brand it is?

Yes she is a Barnes drill Co gap bed lathe 14-24 on the leg the patent date is 1907 and from what I’ve been able to find out she is between 1907 and 1917 so either way she is the elder in my shed Craig
 

dastardly

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Thanks ORC, I have the cone drive assembly ready to attach to the lathe, once fitted the assembly pivots using the weight of the motor to give the belt its tension, I am aiming to get the final top speed of the chuck to 500rpm and then using the cone drive to slow it down when required, is this speed too fast for the bronze bearings, the headstock, I need to check the tolerance of these bearings even though they feel so smooth but I’m waiting for the thrust bearing and some shims to complete this, and today I’m removing the carriage as the feed engage “clutch” is sticking, she engages easy but when you dis engage the lever the clutch is sticking, just needs a cleaning I suspect, thanks everyone for reading my post and adding very much appreciated help Craig
 

Oregon rock crusher

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ORC , when you coming up north?

Might be a while yet before I venture out anywhere except to see the new grankids as they pop out. I've got two new ones supposed to show up soon. Lately all my times been spent on a shop expansion. I'm not completely sure your gov will let cross the river anyway. I thought you were planning a trip South!
 

Oregon rock crusher

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Thanks ORC, I have the cone drive assembly ready to attach to the lathe, once fitted the assembly pivots using the weight of the motor to give the belt its tension, I am aiming to get the final top speed of the chuck to 500rpm and then using the cone drive to slow it down when required, is this speed too fast for the bronze bearings, the headstock, I need to check the tolerance of these bearings even though they feel so smooth but I’m waiting for the thrust bearing and some shims to complete this, and today I’m removing the carriage as the feed engage “clutch” is sticking, she engages easy but when you dis engage the lever the clutch is sticking, just needs a cleaning I suspect, thanks everyone for reading my post and adding very much appreciated help Craig

500 would definitely be on the high side for the the old Barnes with plain bearings. The lower speeds will probably be much more useful most of the time unless you're turning really small diameters. Very nice to have that gap bed capability and why slow speeds are so useful on that lathe.

ORC that Sidney is a beautiful lathe is it yours Craig

Thanks Craig, I put up a few pics of my Sidney 17" heavy pattern lathe in post #9 in this thread. I restored Sid about 12 years ago.
The countershaft with driving cone pulley on Sid spins at 190 rpm as the spec sheet recommended and I've never wished it would go faster. I can get down under 10 rpm with that set up which I often do. Ed.
 
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ClappedOutBport

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500 would definitely be on the high side for the the old Barnes with plain bearings. The lower speeds will probably be much more useful most of the time unless you're turning really small diameters. Very nice to have that gap bed capability and why slow speeds are so useful on that lathe.

Thanks Craig, I put up a few pics of my Sidney 17" heavy pattern lathe in post #9 in this thread. I restored Sid about 12 years ago.
The countershaft with driving cone pulley on Sid spins at 190 rpm as the spec sheet recommended and I've never wished it would go faster. I can get down under 10 rpm with that set up which I often do. Ed.


Different strokes for different folks. I never get much below 50. Even threading I prefer to do around 100+. 500 is probably pushing it but might be ok for limited use with consistent lubrication.
 
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jabberwoki

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Yeah will do soon, I`ve got bait out on another machine just waiting for the seller to get hungry enough to take it.

By the way they aint my gov.
 

Oregon rock crusher

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Different strokes for different folks. I never get much below 50. Even threading I prefer to do around 100+. 500 is probably pushing it but might be ok for limited use with consistent lubrication.

Definitely makes a difference what you mostly do on your lathe. I seldom thread on my Sidney except with a tap or die and like it slow for that. Threading jobs go to one of my smaller lathes, Hardinge or Hendey, with reversing lead screw and quick tool withdraw features which makes the job go much faster.

Mostly my Sidney gets stuck cleaning up the nasty castings and weldments, often with interrupted cuts like on the bottom of a vise. Sid has the swing for those jobs especially because of the factory risers it has. I just figured with the gap bed on Craig's Barnes kicking his swing up to 24" he may enjoy slower speeds. Maybe not.

Here is a pic of the speed chart that came with my Sidney. With double back gears the speeds range from 13 to 285 with an input of 190 rpm and from 16 to 360 if I were to boost the countershaft rpm to 240. At one time I considered mounting two different size shieves on the input shaft so I could have the full speed range available. Ed.
 

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ClappedOutBport

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Definitely makes a difference what you mostly do on your lathe. I seldom thread on my Sidney except with a tap or die and like it slow for that. Threading jobs go to one of my smaller lathes, Hardinge or Hendey, with reversing lead screw and quick tool withdraw features which makes the job go much faster.

Mostly my Sidney gets stuck cleaning up the nasty castings and weldments, often with interrupted cuts like on the bottom of a vise. Sid has the swing for those jobs especially because of the factory risers it has. I just figured with the gap bed on Craig's Barnes kicking his swing up to 24" he may enjoy slower speeds. Maybe not.

Here is a pic of the speed chart that came with my Sidney. With double back gears the speeds range from 13 to 285 with an input of 190 rpm and from 16 to 360 if I were to boost the countershaft rpm to 240. At one time I considered mounting two different size shieves on the input shaft so I could have the full speed range available. Ed.


That's a good number of speeds on that old girl. Yes, that's true, I do run a tap slower than 50 if possible if I'm holding the tap wrench. I'm hoping to use our Sidney for the rough work as well, it doesn't have quite the swing of yours though but should be a bit heavier.
 
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dastardly

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I will always remember going to tafe college for my trade, “fitting and machining”, and the teacher getting us to sharpen HSS tool with a large radius and polished with an oil stone then he got us to set the cutting speed down to its lowest and feed down to slowest and using buckets of coolant flushing the cut we turned a shaft that the finish looked like it had been chromed It was a great practice lesson Craig
 

dastardly

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Yeah I was sure tafe was an Aussie word and it’s been donkeys since I went to one but I did spend considerable time there, days and nights now my kids attend different tafe’s Craig
Ps Australia has changed, I don’t know how to put it into words but it’s not the same place you left and I often think how much easier and cheaper my hobbies would be over in the US
 

dastardly

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ORC I have looked at your previous post “9” and have been thinking about a little hoist to lift work and chucks on the lathe something bed mounted but I like your idea of mounting it in the tool holder dovetail on the compound slide I have also looked at mounting it on the tee slots on the cross slide and what a transformation on your sid lathe from when you acquired it to its restoration what a nice job Craig
 

Oregon rock crusher

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Thanks Craig. The sky lift hoist works great for chuck changes and loading awkward items on the face plate. After a couple years climbing up on the ways trying to lift heavy bits I jumped on the hoist when it came up for sale locally. I thought of other places to mount it as well but sticking it where the tool post goes has worked out pretty well. Ed.
 

Duker

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After lusting at many of the lathes in this thread I think I finally have one maybe worthy enough to post. This my 1947 American Pacemaker 16x54 now sitting in its spot in the machine bay.

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I just got the pucks (feet) under it today so I will let the machine settle and then begin the process to level it out. In the meantime I have a lot of clean up to get done.


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dastardly

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Hi Duker that looks like a nice solid lathe is it for home use or production of sorts, and where are all the tools and **** you need to trip over to get access to your lathe, I must clean my shed tomorrow Craig
 

dastardly

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Hi everyone here is my latest I have now fitted the motor mount and the drive cone pulley assembly, the motor is ordered and should be here within the week, I’m still going to install the little motor I have just to get everything running and get the oil into the bearings and it will let me check that the repair on the split nut is successful under operating speed. Craig
 

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dastardly

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I did a little maths and using the cone pulley assembly that came with the lathe and a steeped pulley I have to install on the motor I will get 354rpm top speed on the small steeped motor pulley and down to 64rpm slowest speed without using the back gears and then I think the back gears reduce it another 7:1 so down to 9.7 rpm, if I use the next size of the steeped pulley on the motor It will double everything. I will order the thrust bearings for the headstock tomorrow Craig
 

Oregon rock crusher

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After lusting at many of the lathes in this thread I think I finally have one maybe worthy enough to post. This my 1947 American Pacemaker 16x54 now sitting in its spot in the machine bay.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

Nice Pacemaker Duker. Also a manageable size for such a serious and robust lathe. Ed.

I did a little maths and using the cone pulley assembly that came with the lathe and a steeped pulley I have to install on the motor I will get 354rpm top speed on the small steeped motor pulley and down to 64rpm slowest speed without using the back gears and then I think the back gears reduce it another 7:1 so down to 9.7 rpm, if I use the next size of the steeped pulley on the motor It will double everything. I will order the thrust bearings for the headstock tomorrow Craig

That Barnes is looking good Craig. Sounds like you've got your drive sorted out. Ed.
 

Duker

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Hi Duker that looks like a nice solid lathe is it for home use or production of sorts, and where are all the tools and **** you need to trip over to get access to your lathe, I must clean my shed tomorrow Craig



Nice Pacemaker Duker. Also a manageable size for such a serious and robust lathe. Ed.







That Barnes is looking good Craig. Sounds like you've got your drive sorted out. Ed.



D--I am green with envy. :)



Thanks Guys I am really looking forward to getting it set up and running.

Craig, all of the piles and mess was just to the left of the lathe!


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dastardly

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Hi everyone well my lathe is painted and back together and I even turned down a bit of brass for a punch, everything is working as for now I have a small 1/3hp motor running it off the jack shaft and I have on order a 2hp 4pole motor to fit when it gets here, I turned down some pvc to use as headstock thrust washers just to try and make sure the size was correct it’s more of a spacer then a thrust bearing, the power feed is working after a bit of adjusting and the repaired split nut is working for the screw cutting, now screw cutting I’m having a little trouble understanding the chart on the lathe it imperial of corse but the quick change gearbox is for metric threads, I was trying to work out what I had to do to turn an acme thread 1” diameter with 8 tpi I will try and add a picture of the chart and gearbox chart, I don’t know if I have the correct gears but I can’t understand the chart to see which gear goes where Craig
 

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Jwallace1

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Here is a picture of my south bend with my walker turner drill press

thanks
 

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Jwallace1

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Thanks guys

The coolant pump is a cool little accessory. Not sure if I'll ever use it but it's all restored and ready to go if I do.
 

ClappedOutBport

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Coolant is wonderful stuff, but you need to clean religiously at then end of the day if you're not using it 12 hours a day, every day or it will get stuff rusty.
 
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