TailGunner3000
Well-known member
Hi all. Does anybody know of a source for a replacement chrome style Snap-on decal for a 1750 vise? Thanks.
VISE REPAIR 101 all vise repairs, lubricants, sources for parts and the tricks to fix
- Thread starter drivesitfar
- Start date
Like this one? expensive though.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Snap-On-To...450177?hash=item3dad3cd541:g:Fg4AAOSwnmxfh0aL
(not my listing, or in any way associated with this listing)
Lassen Forge
Well-known member
I have one just like this, it was designed to bolt directly onto a workbench, not a swivel. Actually, I like it that way - lots more stable.
I'm not sure where you can get a horseshoe for it, but you could probably fab one up.
Roberts210
Well-known member
Do not buy that one for $45. Call Snap-On. They directed me where to get two for the S.O. 1750 that I restored, and it sure didn't cost any $45.
Roberts210
Well-known member
I've got a larger Wilton in my shop that's got a swivel base, but I've never had any problems with stability.
I could fab up a horse shoe washer, no problem, but what thickness of steel? Does anyone have a mic reading on one?
TailGunner3000
Well-known member
I appreciate the help. Unfortunately I reached out to Snap-on already. They directed me to Wilton, who said they no longer produce that item and have none in back stock.Do not buy that one for $45. Call Snap-On. They directed me where to get two for the S.O. 1750 that I restored, and it sure didn't cost any $45.
I saw the one on ebay. I already decided that was too high a price, especially since I only paid $75 for the vise.
The search continues...
I might be able to help. I got Wilton part number 9141401 for my 1765 recently. I got it from tool parts direct but I believe wilton also has it in stock.
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Roberts210
Well-known member
Hmmmmm. I restored my S.O. vise in... early 2017 I think. I don't think I paid more than $5 apiece for 2 stickers, and they may have been free. Maybe someone can reproduce them in mylar. On OWWM there are people who reproduce old wood working decals.
TailGunner3000
Well-known member
Thanks, but out of stock at both places.
I'm okay with reattaching the beat-up old decals, but was just looking to upgrade after restoring the rest of the vise.
The search continues...
davethorik
Well-known member
Wiltons are modular...a swivel base is just an add-on to a fixed base vise.
Roberts210
Well-known member
TailGunner, don't give up on the decals yet.
Roberts210
Well-known member
I'm still trying to find the U-shaped washer & 3 machine screws for the 3" Wilton. Will one from a newer Wilton 300S (3 inch wide jaws) work? Anyone know?
Aloha Everyone,
I’m giving some TLC to the Wilton Vise in the pictures below. It is missing the parts that hold the main screw to the dynamic jaw.
I looked at another Wilton that I have and I thought I was missing a C-Clip, flat washer and spring. The parts online were $10 which I thought was not that bad but it would take too long for the parts to arrive and shipping would have added more than 50% to the price so I decided to give it a try and procure the parts at the local hardware store.
I took the parts from the other vise with me to the store for comparison and I found a washer that will fit (slightly looser than what I would like), a spring that I would have to shorten (or so I thought) and a C-Clip that seemed to match the size, all for less than $4. I was actually surprised and excited to find the C-Clip!
As I got ready to measure the length needed for the spring so I could cut it, I realized there was not enough space for a spring (see picture below) on this vise. Also, the c-clip is too tight, the main screw on the vise missing parts is thicker than the other vise.
I searched and searched online for information on my vise and the closest vise that I could find to mine is on a restoration video for a very old Wilton that only uses a C-clip and a flat washer without the spring It is not the exact same vise but it seems like the space between the clip groove on the screw and the body of the vise is very similar. The video doesn't show very well the parts and fitment, but judging by the space between the groove in the screw and the body of the dynamic jaw, I don't think anything else would fit.
Does a c-clip and washer without a spring (or anything else) seems right to you guys?
If that’s the case, is there something I can use instead or in addition (that costs less than $5 if possible) that will improve the original set up?
I was thinking maybe a set shaft screw, (collar screw? not sure the right name) or a thin bearing (instead of the flat washer)?
How can I tell what vise model I have?
Where can I find the c-clip the correct size without having to pay Wilton prices?
Thank you in advance for your help!
UPDATE:
Well, I was looking for an extra washer for the vise to see if it would work with the 3/4 e-clip that I bought. I couldn't find any where the washers are usually stored so I started looking in my tool box. I saw an old washer in this little plastic box (chewing gum box) that I use to keep special parts and pieces safe so I don't loose them. There was a o-ring in the box as well and to my surprise... the original e-clip for the vise! I didn't realize it was the e-clip for the vise at first because I don't recall removing anything from that vise, I thought it belonged to a grinder that I'm in the process of refurbishing but after carefully reviewing the grinder I realized it actually belonged to the Wilton vise. To answer my own question in case it helps someone, that vise does not use a spring, it is just a flat washer and e-clip.
I would still like to know if there is a place where e-clips can be procured without paying Wilton prices. Thank you again.
I’m giving some TLC to the Wilton Vise in the pictures below. It is missing the parts that hold the main screw to the dynamic jaw.
I looked at another Wilton that I have and I thought I was missing a C-Clip, flat washer and spring. The parts online were $10 which I thought was not that bad but it would take too long for the parts to arrive and shipping would have added more than 50% to the price so I decided to give it a try and procure the parts at the local hardware store.
I took the parts from the other vise with me to the store for comparison and I found a washer that will fit (slightly looser than what I would like), a spring that I would have to shorten (or so I thought) and a C-Clip that seemed to match the size, all for less than $4. I was actually surprised and excited to find the C-Clip!
As I got ready to measure the length needed for the spring so I could cut it, I realized there was not enough space for a spring (see picture below) on this vise. Also, the c-clip is too tight, the main screw on the vise missing parts is thicker than the other vise.
I searched and searched online for information on my vise and the closest vise that I could find to mine is on a restoration video for a very old Wilton that only uses a C-clip and a flat washer without the spring It is not the exact same vise but it seems like the space between the clip groove on the screw and the body of the vise is very similar. The video doesn't show very well the parts and fitment, but judging by the space between the groove in the screw and the body of the dynamic jaw, I don't think anything else would fit.
Does a c-clip and washer without a spring (or anything else) seems right to you guys?
If that’s the case, is there something I can use instead or in addition (that costs less than $5 if possible) that will improve the original set up?
I was thinking maybe a set shaft screw, (collar screw? not sure the right name) or a thin bearing (instead of the flat washer)?
How can I tell what vise model I have?
Where can I find the c-clip the correct size without having to pay Wilton prices?
Thank you in advance for your help!
UPDATE:
Well, I was looking for an extra washer for the vise to see if it would work with the 3/4 e-clip that I bought. I couldn't find any where the washers are usually stored so I started looking in my tool box. I saw an old washer in this little plastic box (chewing gum box) that I use to keep special parts and pieces safe so I don't loose them. There was a o-ring in the box as well and to my surprise... the original e-clip for the vise! I didn't realize it was the e-clip for the vise at first because I don't recall removing anything from that vise, I thought it belonged to a grinder that I'm in the process of refurbishing but after carefully reviewing the grinder I realized it actually belonged to the Wilton vise. To answer my own question in case it helps someone, that vise does not use a spring, it is just a flat washer and e-clip.
I would still like to know if there is a place where e-clips can be procured without paying Wilton prices. Thank you again.
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Roberts210
Well-known member
Tailgunner, these decals seem pretty close:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Snapon-tools-official-foil-snapon-logo-decal-sticker-new/164295338477?hash=item2640c3e9ed:g:2~gAAOSwQcJfElbb
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Snapon-tools-official-foil-snapon-logo-decal-sticker-new/164295338477?hash=item2640c3e9ed:g:2~gAAOSwQcJfElbb
TailGunner3000
Well-known member
Appreciated.
Thanks Arebee,
I went to HD and Ace and the biggest clip that they had was a bit small.
Not sure if fellow forum members have had luck with McMaster or any other online provider.
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Alterego — Depending on the size mismatch, can you file or grind away part of the E or C clip so it fits in? I had a 1/4" wide collar on a Craftsman (Columbian) vise that had to be damaged in removal. I replaced it with a hairpin clip. See post https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=8732270&postcount=8312
Note that I had to clip the ends of the hairpin a little to make it fit into the U channel that protects the main screw.
Here's the relevant page for them from the McMaster catalogue: https://www.mcmaster.com/hairpins/hairpin-clips/
Another idea is a collar with a set-screw, for which again I'd try local (Ace, HD, Lowes) first.
Note that I had to clip the ends of the hairpin a little to make it fit into the U channel that protects the main screw.
Here's the relevant page for them from the McMaster catalogue: https://www.mcmaster.com/hairpins/hairpin-clips/
Another idea is a collar with a set-screw, for which again I'd try local (Ace, HD, Lowes) first.
AngryBeaver
Well-known member
That ship sailed long ago. Snap on sold more wilton badges than vises they ever made.
Now that wilton tradesman's are made over seas, snap on does not sell a wilton vise as snap on anymore. only the wilton machinist vises are sold as blue points.
Do not buy that one for $45. Call Snap-On. They directed me where to get two for the S.O. 1750 that I restored, and it sure didn't cost any $45.
yup, they were 5 bucks a piece. They are no longer made.
Just picked up this Reed 204 1/2 R.
Overall, it seems to be in very good condition.
Is there a way to get the handle nearly perfectly straight? in the past, I've just heated, hammered, and squeezed in a vise, but I've not been perfectly happy with the results.
Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk
Overall, it seems to be in very good condition.
Is there a way to get the handle nearly perfectly straight? in the past, I've just heated, hammered, and squeezed in a vise, but I've not been perfectly happy with the results.
Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk
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cheeky
Member
I'm curious what others have done here too.
Here's the swivel plate lock nut from the Columbian 804 that I'm restoring. Might just cut and replace this one...
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cheeky
Member
Getting close to finishing my restoration of this 804. I like the hammered finish to hide some of the minor imperfections. Color isn't bad either, although I would have preferred the Hammerite green, but couldn't find it locally.
To anyone who has worked with one of these, do you guys remember which direction that last piece was oriented? This vise came in the mail disassembled, so I don't know if it's long way forward or backwards.
Thanks
To anyone who has worked with one of these, do you guys remember which direction that last piece was oriented? This vise came in the mail disassembled, so I don't know if it's long way forward or backwards.
Thanks
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Tinkerer2
Well-known member
I took mine apart and didn't pay attention to the original orientation. 
But I put it together longways forward so there were more threads available when the jaw was extended.
But I put it together longways forward so there were more threads available when the jaw was extended.cheeky
Member
@Tinkerer2 Ok, good, that's how I put it back together for jaw distance, but then I started to double guess myself thinking that it might be oriented the other way for stability or some other reason...
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Smitty just posted his "Anvil" for such work on the "Vises" thread. a Cummings Diesel wrist pin!
va.grouseman
Well-known member
cheeky
Member
Ha, nice anvil!
This is my first time on this website and also my first time posting. I just acquired an American Scale Company number 15 vise. I’m in the process of trying to clean it up and get it ready for use. Any information that anybody has on this vise would be appreciated. Thanks
Skydronaut
New member
Hey all! I'm working on restoring a Wilton A9450 vice that was abandoned on a military base in southeast Asia. It was getting thrown away, and I received permission by the owning organization to acquire it.
It was rusted so badly, that I had to use a six foot cheater pipe to have enough leverage to unscrew the four mount bolts! Interestingly, this vice had a carcinogenic, hexavalent chromium-containing primer+black topcoat paint job (this primer and paint is normally used on military aircraft, so I assume it was a paint job done by one of the paint shops on the military base). I had to wear an N95 respirator and use a well-ventilated work area in order to sandblast the paint and rust off.
Anyway, the vice has been mostly disassembled, with the exception of a single end cap retaining pin. I was able to remove the first pin by drilling and tapping an M4 thread, and prying the pin out with a pair of flat head screw drivers.
The other pin, however, is much harder to clearly identify, likely due to a combination of the heavy rust and subsequent sandblasting. I don't want to use the same removal method, for fear of accidentally drilling into the vise body.
If you look closely, you can make out the outline of the bottom portion of the pin, and right above that, you can see an indentation where I was attempting to punch out the pin. But, she won't budge.
Here's the REAL fun part though:
looking from the other side, you can see that the pins do not line up! see that little shiny bit in the hole? That is the edge of the other pin just barely visible, slightly overlapping with the hole from the first pin that I removed. I tried using a slightly bent nail to punch it out from the inside, but I was worried about accidentally peening the pin in place from the inside, so I stopped that approach almost immediately. Any thoughts?
I am considering taking it to a professional machinist at this point. The only other idea I had was to use some kind of physical or chemical process that would allow me to easily see the pin in contrast from the vise body, since I am pretty sure the pins are steel, while the body is cast iron, no? Thank you all in advance!
It was rusted so badly, that I had to use a six foot cheater pipe to have enough leverage to unscrew the four mount bolts! Interestingly, this vice had a carcinogenic, hexavalent chromium-containing primer+black topcoat paint job (this primer and paint is normally used on military aircraft, so I assume it was a paint job done by one of the paint shops on the military base). I had to wear an N95 respirator and use a well-ventilated work area in order to sandblast the paint and rust off.
Anyway, the vice has been mostly disassembled, with the exception of a single end cap retaining pin. I was able to remove the first pin by drilling and tapping an M4 thread, and prying the pin out with a pair of flat head screw drivers.
The other pin, however, is much harder to clearly identify, likely due to a combination of the heavy rust and subsequent sandblasting. I don't want to use the same removal method, for fear of accidentally drilling into the vise body.
If you look closely, you can make out the outline of the bottom portion of the pin, and right above that, you can see an indentation where I was attempting to punch out the pin. But, she won't budge.
Here's the REAL fun part though:
I am considering taking it to a professional machinist at this point. The only other idea I had was to use some kind of physical or chemical process that would allow me to easily see the pin in contrast from the vise body, since I am pretty sure the pins are steel, while the body is cast iron, no? Thank you all in advance!
I need to replace the Birtman Electric tag on my Rock Island 574. I'm going to laser etch a negative on brass, then etch and flood-fill the tag.
Before I try my hand at drawing it up myself, has anyone drawn up the graphic for these tags in CAD or some other vector program?
Before I try my hand at drawing it up myself, has anyone drawn up the graphic for these tags in CAD or some other vector program?
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This is a design issue with Wilton vises. The tapered pin needs to be pushed out, not in, and the non-aligned holes makes pushing it straight across impossible. There are several posts with people having the same problem. As I remember it, an appropriately sized allen wrench was the best solution suggested on here.Hey all! I'm working on restoring a Wilton A9450 vice that was abandoned on a military base in southeast Asia. It was getting thrown away, and I received permission by the owning organization to acquire it.
It was rusted so badly, that I had to use a six foot cheater pipe to have enough leverage to unscrew the four mount bolts! Interestingly, this vice had a carcinogenic, hexavalent chromium-containing primer+black topcoat paint job (this primer and paint is normally used on military aircraft, so I assume it was a paint job done by one of the paint shops on the military base). I had to wear an N95 respirator and use a well-ventilated work area in order to sandblast the paint and rust off.
Anyway, the vice has been mostly disassembled, with the exception of a single end cap retaining pin. I was able to remove the first pin by drilling and tapping an M4 thread, and prying the pin out with a pair of flat head screw drivers.
The other pin, however, is much harder to clearly identify, likely due to a combination of the heavy rust and subsequent sandblasting. I don't want to use the same removal method, for fear of accidentally drilling into the vise body.
If you look closely, you can make out the outline of the bottom portion of the pin, and right above that, you can see an indentation where I was attempting to punch out the pin. But, she won't budge.
Here's the REAL fun part though:looking from the other side, you can see that the pins do not line up! see that little shiny bit in the hole? That is the edge of the other pin just barely visible, slightly overlapping with the hole from the first pin that I removed. I tried using a slightly bent nail to punch it out from the inside, but I was worried about accidentally peening the pin in place from the inside, so I stopped that approach almost immediately. Any thoughts?
I am considering taking it to a professional machinist at this point. The only other idea I had was to use some kind of physical or chemical process that would allow me to easily see the pin in contrast from the vise body, since I am pretty sure the pins are steel, while the body is cast iron, no? Thank you all in advance!
Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk
Roberts210
Well-known member
Skydronaut, please post some pictures of the Wilton so we can all drool.
John Hall
Member
Personally, I wouldn’t use grease as a lubricant on any vice, chuck etc...or anything that comes in contact with metal chips and filings...as the grease just acts like a magnet to both the metal chips and filings and dirt and dust...a light regular oiling is all that is needed...there is no high speed speed or pressure involved in their use, so all that’s needed is a light lubrication...which is easy to wipe clean and doesn’t hold debris like grease..
This is all I’ve used for 50 years...and it works
This is all I’ve used for 50 years...and it works
Skydronaut
New member
Hey Rob,
I had embedded imgur images in the post, and it looked fine on my desktop, but for some reason on mobile now, the images aren’t showing in the post. It looks like I’m getting an error for being under five posts on the forum. Well I’ll add them in once I get to five.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
SkyD - take the "S" of the "HTTPS" in the pic url, and it should come up.
I’ve been recently trying to revive this sad Reed 104 1/2R for a personal rough user vise. I has a lot of cosmetic issues from (the best I can figure) so type of fixture for pressing something based on the extra tapped holes and most of the lettering being ground off. On the plus side, the jaws are near perfect.
I’m working on making a new handle now but my biggest hurdle is the main nut. It currently has a crudely homemade job that only has about 3/8” of threads left and very loose.
Would anyone happen to have a useable main nut that would work in this 104 1/2R? I don’t necessarily need a perfect one, just one that functions. Even a useable repaired nut would suffice as long as it works. I could be wrong but I think any of the 4” and 4-1/2” R-series Reed main nuts will work. Thanks.
I’m working on making a new handle now but my biggest hurdle is the main nut. It currently has a crudely homemade job that only has about 3/8” of threads left and very loose.
Would anyone happen to have a useable main nut that would work in this 104 1/2R? I don’t necessarily need a perfect one, just one that functions. Even a useable repaired nut would suffice as long as it works. I could be wrong but I think any of the 4” and 4-1/2” R-series Reed main nuts will work. Thanks.
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Outlawmws
Well-known member
Black there is a vise parts swap thread for this sort of ask. This thread is for repair advise.