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The VISES of Garage Journal

Shiftless

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Guys, don't forget Parker made a "streamline" vise as well... I have a #63-1/2

Let’s post our “streamliner” vises!

I just missed winning an auction for a Precision Streamliner vise when I got outbid in the last 5 seconds.

Here is my Parker 63 1/2
 

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mikeswrenches

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Does this Wilton Shop King count? Most of the original paint remains. It even had the usually missing cut-off chisel and pipe jaws. Too bad it has a missing foot. I couldn’t get the other pictures to upload. 3 in jaws. Very little use.
 

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Shiftless

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Mine is "barn fresh" still. I'll need to make time to take a pic....

Shift, how deep is the Pritchard hole on yours?

Outlaw:
It is exactly 1/2 inch deep. Then it hits the screw.

Mike:
That’s a real survivor. I love the vendor plaque attached saying it was sold in Detroit.
 

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Smitty

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Thanks shift. This is the only time I’ve seen the Prentiss name written that way.
 

rangerfredbob

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Oregon
I brought two of the 3 vises I got on Saturday home today. The Columbian is a model 204 1/2 and is in good usable condition, no paint left but it works well, just used it tonight to install a giant PTO U joint.

The other vise is an older red Wilton 5.5" bullet, it's missing the Wilton plackard on the side but has the MADE IN USA and 5.5" on the other and stamping numbers all over the thing. Good shape other than the broken jaw insert.

I'll see about pictures tomorrow since I'm off for my shop slab being poured...
 

CRSINMICH

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Let’s post our “streamliner” vises!

Here is my Parker 63 1/2

Let's not leave Scout out of the discussion. Here's a 4 1/2. Bonus points for noticing how this Scout differs from other ones. No, it's not the white paint. Most vises have some of that.

Or, the more deco Columbian Pennypincher
 

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dannyr

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Sheffield England
Price of the Henrey's sure has succumbed to inflation.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/VERY-RARE-...865693?hash=item343bb2b05d:g:LQgAAOSwpTtgHGnR

$14.00 a lb. just for shipping.:shocking:
mmm not surprisingly for a Canadian vice, it looks very like the standard Parkinson/Woden/Record/others of UK or Dawn of Australia, of that period, all based on the Parkinsons' Handy (later version of about 1900) -- ie good solid vices, but the basis of the range - not quick release or cast in steel.

as most do, it has a small detail of the casting to distinguish it (that zigzag on the rear of the static) - otherwise looks absolutely standard.

A 5in jaw like this in England would not cost over UKP100 ($130) or with a swivel and in better condition maybe UKP130. With patience you might get one for much less.

And the seller says they became standard Canadian forces issue - interesting, but then unlikely to be rare

good luck with that, seller
 
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RBarnes

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Texas
I'll see about pictures tomorrow since I'm off for my shop slab being poured...

Ranger, a couple of years ago I poured a slab for my wife's garden building. She told one of the girls at her work that her husband had just poured her slab, and the girl thought that was a euphemism for something else.:)
 

Fierljeppen

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Jan 26, 2018
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Let's not leave Scout out of the discussion. Here's a 4 1/2. Bonus points for noticing how this Scout differs from other ones. No, it's not the white paint. Most vises have some of that.

Is the answer in the following 1961 Wilton Catalog? Bonus points for noticing the error in the advertisement.


attachment.php
attachment.php
 

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rangerfredbob

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Oregon
Ok, I guess I could have downloaded the auction pictures and posted them like this... it's cold outside and my garage is a disaster or I would grab pics of the other two that are in my garage too...
 

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tool_scrounge

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Southern California
I brought two of the 3 vises I got on Saturday home today. The Columbian is a model 204 1/2 and is in good usable condition, no paint left but it works well, just used it tonight to install a giant PTO U joint.

If you are using it as a u joint press, you should probably use a hydraulic press instead. They really are not designed for press work.
 

rangerfredbob

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Oregon
I know, just used it to get the cups started, then moved to the press... Plus this was just an ancient giant joint, the cups weren't that tight in the yokes, they'd spent some time with the rollers locked up from how they fit after getting past the C clip notch...
 

CRSINMICH

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Is the answer in the following 1961 Wilton Catalog? Bonus points for noticing the error in the advertisement.

attachment.php
attachment.php

Fierljeppen: The copy editor must not have been familiar with vises to put the wrong descriptions with the illustrations. Yet another potential pitfall in vise identification.

BINGO for your guess at the bonus points I offered. We're even.
 

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Shiftless

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Here is my Wilton Scout N.O.S. including the box.
I had a chance to visit an estate sale before it started and spied this up on a high shelf in the dusty old garage.
Too bad the old guy didn’t spend a few bucks more on a vise and buy a baby bullet to store unused for almost half a century and let me find it.
 

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b.well

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NY
Hello. I am restoring a 5" wilton bullet and hit a wall. Ive got a stuck rear pin. I know the pin from one side should enter the pin hole on the other side and push it out enough to remove the inner threads. Well the pin isnt lining up with the hole and I am not sure the best route to go from here. Please help!

The pin on the opposite side is sticking out. If i could only pull it out life would be good. I could hammer it in but i dont think that helps anything. ID of the hole is 0.248" and OD of the pin is 0.257. Worst case i could drill a pin out but i hate to do that. Any ideas?

Thank you!!!20210210_162237.jpeg20210210_160746.jpg20210210_133003.jpeg

Sent from my SM-G960U using The Garage Journal mobile app
 

KMScott

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Daufuskie Island, South Carolina
Hello. I am restoring a 5" wilton bullet and hit a wall. Ive got a stuck rear pin. I know the pin from one side should enter the pin hole on the other side and push it out enough to remove the inner threads. Well the pin isnt lining up with the hole and I am not sure the best route to go from here. Please help!

The pin on the opposite side is sticking out. If i could only pull it out life would be good. I could hammer it in but i dont think that helps anything. ID of the hole is 0.248" and OD of the pin is 0.257. Worst case i could drill a pin out but i hate to do that. Any ideas?

Thank you!!!

Cut the pin off maybe using a dremel and tap out the remaining pin. Look on McMaster carr and using keywords knurled pins then you will find either cross hatched 1/4 knurled pins or straight knurled ones to replace yours. If the hole is compromised then I have fixed them using this method.

The pin sticking out could have a slide hammer tack welded in place to pull it out. This is what I would do.

https://wiltonviseparts.wordpress.com/2016/01/25/those-pesky-wilton-end-cap-pins/

Good luck.
 

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ray h

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back of house
Some years ago I ask this question and Carla recommended a set screw once you get the pins out. The holes in my 2 vises didn't line up either. I think I used a 5/16 set screw.
 

Outlawmws

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Shift, the scout was probably bought as a gift and he was gratefully happy on opening; and then put it away as he probably had a better if older more beat up vise...
 

Shiftless

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Shift, the scout was probably bought as a gift and he was gratefully happy on opening; and then put it away as he probably had a better if older more beat up vise...

That’s an excellent hypothesis.
I didn’t see any other vises in the garage but it was obvious that some clean out had already started.
 

va.grouseman

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Southern-Central VA.
CRS, don't know if the little Scout you pictured is yours or not but I prefer the I-beam style slide to the bar stock slide just for the looks factor.---I have 2 of the I-beam Scouts.---The little Scouts are nice collectors but I wouldn't use one as a beater.---I'd have it busted in a day.---Wonder which style came out first?---Anyone know?
 

b.well

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Messages
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NY
Cut the pin off maybe using a dremel and tap out the remaining pin. Look on McMaster carr and using keywords knurled pins then you will find either cross hatched 1/4 knurled pins or straight knurled ones to replace yours. If the hole is compromised then I have fixed them using this method.

The pin sticking out could have a slide hammer tack welded in place to pull it out. This is what I would do.

https://wiltonviseparts.wordpress.com/2016/01/25/those-pesky-wilton-end-cap-pins/

Good luck.

Some years ago I ask this question and Carla recommended a set screw once you get the pins out. The holes in my 2 vises didn't line up either. I think I used a 5/16 set screw.

Yep, that is what my blog was about.

Thanks for the quick responses!

I now believe the proud spot on the inner wall was a weld. Either way i broke it off with a screwdriver and hammer. Then i was able to move things around and hammer them out. No cutting this time. Thank goodness. I also found this video which has a much better way to get these pins out IMO.

 

abailcb

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Jan 26, 2021
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IN
I've been skimming a lot of knowledge here lately and figured I'd go ahead and post what I'm getting ready to work on. This Prentiss 940 was bought used by my dad in the late 60's. It's been mounted in the farm shop since. The shop is falling down around it (waiting for me to build a new one) so I pulled the old vise to clean up.

If anyone is familiar with these you might recognize something here that's not quite right.
 

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Vise

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NE
I've been skimming a lot of knowledge here lately and figured I'd go ahead and post what I'm getting ready to work on. This Prentiss 940 was bought used by my dad in the late 60's. It's been mounted in the farm shop since. The shop is falling down around it (waiting for me to build a new one) so I pulled the old vise to clean up.

If anyone is familiar with these you might recognize something here that's not quite right.

That's a transition model. Presumably from a time right after Prentiss acquired Lewis (through some unknown corporate action). The main screw/meatball doesn't look original, but that's a very cool vise. Nice find.
 

abailcb

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IN
The main screw/meatball doesn't look original, but that's a very cool vise.

BIngo! It was confusing me when I was trying to ID it (part of the 940 is chipped or badly cast). But, when I got the lead screw out, I found a ugly, but impressively durable weld where the "meatball" was replaced with this barrel shaped end.

Would like to remedy this, but finding a replacement is going to be a stretch.
 

RTM

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SF Bay Area
All

This is not my vise, but I thought it was cool as heck, and didn't see it in the spreadsheet, so thought I would toss some photos of it on here. If this is one of your vises, let me know if you have concerns and I can pull the pictures down.

A late 1800's Stephens Patent Lever Vise with a Taper Attachment. It has 4" jaws and the Taper Swivel slides smoothly in it's track.

stephens%20Swivel%20Jaw%20Vise%2010-XL.jpg


See the whole pile of pix here.
https://kirkhmb.smugmug.com/Mechanic-Tools/Misc-Goodies/Parker-Vise/i-GWnbJQ9
 

CRSINMICH

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A late 1800's Stephens Patent Lever Vise with a Taper Attachment. It has 4" jaws and the Taper Swivel slides smoothly in it's track

From an 1875 catalog and an 1894 catalog
 

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Shiftless

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From an 1875 catalog and an 1894 catalog

Nice find CRS!

Does anybody recognize this little vise? It looks like it is designed to fit onto a post. The side handle acts like a set screw. Maybe the missing swivel base had a big post sticking up in the middle. See last photo.
The only markings are on the inside of the dynamic jaw tower. It’s says “Made in the U.S.A.”
 

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Outlawmws

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Shift, - Likely a Millers Falls, I gave one like that to my son, and later found a clamp on base for it. See if the screw head has an "MF" on it?

I've seen a swivel bench mount base as well.
 
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