well a storm went threw
- Thread starter safnd2021
- Start date
RPH
Well-known member
Ouch! Better now than later. Think opportunity for changes.
240sxguy
Well-known member
Aw dang man that stinks! How bad of a storm was it? You're not exactly well protected there.
Skiff Builder
Well-known member
Wow, that's a bit of a setback but you can work your way right back. Sure looks like you had plenty bracing.
It looks like the bottom plates were face nailed to the studs prior to standing the walls up. I am just asking for my own knowledge, no criticism here.
Were the studs also toe nailed to the plate?
Was the plywood bottom edge nailed to the bottom plate?
Probably would not matter either way- lot of sail area with those size walls!
Good luck on the build going forward.
Skiff
It looks like the bottom plates were face nailed to the studs prior to standing the walls up. I am just asking for my own knowledge, no criticism here.
Were the studs also toe nailed to the plate?
Was the plywood bottom edge nailed to the bottom plate?
Probably would not matter either way- lot of sail area with those size walls!
Good luck on the build going forward.
Skiff
Cryptic1911
Well-known member
wow that ***** dude
KnurledNut
Well-known member
Man if i lived closer id come give a hand...
Do you know if everyone (people) and everything (pets, livestock, etc) are OK? If so then that is, of course, something to be thankful for.
That said, gusty winds can take down just about anything regardless of bracing (i.e. Tacoma Narrows Bridge collapse).
Here's to you getting past this and moving forward. Better luck to you and your loved ones.
That said, gusty winds can take down just about anything regardless of bracing (i.e. Tacoma Narrows Bridge collapse).
Here's to you getting past this and moving forward. Better luck to you and your loved ones.
KnurledNut
Well-known member
KnurledNut
Well-known member
Yeah.
The power of natural forces is not to be underestimated.
We were actually up framing the roof as a rogue thunder/lightning/rainstorm (ended up having rotation, but not quite a tornado) came in.
I would say the winds were comparable to what you were dealt.
We had to make a decision to either keep working and try to get it braced to handle the winds or get down and under cover.
I think our decision was obvious. No one got hurt.
Being engineered, the trusses were a complete loss.
One of the walls almost came down when the trusses caved, but we had a big telehandler on site and used it to brace it.
I think you can salvage a big part of your material.
In my experience, something good usually comes out of a bad situation. Even if its just a hard lesson.
The power of natural forces is not to be underestimated.
We were actually up framing the roof as a rogue thunder/lightning/rainstorm (ended up having rotation, but not quite a tornado) came in.
I would say the winds were comparable to what you were dealt.
We had to make a decision to either keep working and try to get it braced to handle the winds or get down and under cover.
I think our decision was obvious. No one got hurt.
Being engineered, the trusses were a complete loss.
One of the walls almost came down when the trusses caved, but we had a big telehandler on site and used it to brace it.
I think you can salvage a big part of your material.
In my experience, something good usually comes out of a bad situation. Even if its just a hard lesson.
Hobby_Man22
Well-known member
That looks like days worth of work. Could be worse, although it all looks pretty warped and bent now so I don't know how easy it will be to just throw it back up.
KnurledNut
Well-known member
Its disheartening to go one step forward and two steps back.
It will go back together faster than it seems.
Your braces need to be higher, even if you have to fasten to the slab.
And it would be good to tie the top plates over the headers to the walls.
Dont give up. You got this.
Max78
Well-known member
That's a bummer!
I was building my wife a She shed with insulation and AC at the same time a neighbor just down the road was building his 20x25 garage. I went a little overboard in my construction.
The neighbor went a little too cheap. 2x4 16oc with vertical T1-11 on the sides holding everything together. Exposed interior studs and no bracing to be seen.
about 3 months after we finished our builds we got a really bad microburst that damaged our porch on the house. No damage to the she shed, but the neighbors garage completely collapsed on all of his welding equipment and older Porsche he had in there.
I was building my wife a She shed with insulation and AC at the same time a neighbor just down the road was building his 20x25 garage. I went a little overboard in my construction.
The neighbor went a little too cheap. 2x4 16oc with vertical T1-11 on the sides holding everything together. Exposed interior studs and no bracing to be seen.
about 3 months after we finished our builds we got a really bad microburst that damaged our porch on the house. No damage to the she shed, but the neighbors garage completely collapsed on all of his welding equipment and older Porsche he had in there.
Dagny
Well-known member
never never give up take it apart nail it back up.
That ***** big time. Luckily no one got hurt. How did the stacks of lumber fare ? Plywood blow away ?
If you get to the point of where you were in the first picture, I'd suggest nailing some bracing at a 45° in the corners on the top plates when you leave the site.
If you get to the point of where you were in the first picture, I'd suggest nailing some bracing at a 45° in the corners on the top plates when you leave the site.
pcmeiners
Well-known member
Damn that hurts, especially when working alone.
As to the wind forces, I would remove all the sheathing until the framing is complete, tied down and frame braced; thought about just removing the upper row of sheathing but even that leaves too much wind surface. Presently a 50 mph gust could take it out again if restored to it's pre-storm condition. After something like this, I would pay for a helper for a couple weekends just to bolster my mental health, something like this is too disheartening.
As to bracing... You could brace for days and it would do no good; bracing from the interior would be possible but would require anchoring into the concrete, again way to much work. The wind forces on those walls are tremendous. Especially on the outside, that ground is unsuitable for bracing with those possible wind forces.
As to the wind forces, I would remove all the sheathing until the framing is complete, tied down and frame braced; thought about just removing the upper row of sheathing but even that leaves too much wind surface. Presently a 50 mph gust could take it out again if restored to it's pre-storm condition. After something like this, I would pay for a helper for a couple weekends just to bolster my mental health, something like this is too disheartening.
As to bracing... You could brace for days and it would do no good; bracing from the interior would be possible but would require anchoring into the concrete, again way to much work. The wind forces on those walls are tremendous. Especially on the outside, that ground is unsuitable for bracing with those possible wind forces.
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pcmeiners
Well-known member
"If I had the money to pay someone I would "
Fully understand, I am presently in the same situation.
Fully understand, I am presently in the same situation.
nmk_61802
Well-known member
When you rebuild, I would consider leaving some of that plywood off until you get the roof built. You really only need plywood at the corners and use stick lumber diagonally to keep the walls from racking until you can get the rest of the sheeting on. It makes the walls lighter to lift, and allows the wind to pass through.
Edit to say: Remember to put the bracing on the inside of the walls, that way you can sheet the outside prior to removing the additional bracing.
Edit to say: Remember to put the bracing on the inside of the walls, that way you can sheet the outside prior to removing the additional bracing.
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Best of luck and stay safe.
KnurledNut
Well-known member
A few tips:
Jlbc212
Well-known member
I would place some anchors into the concrete floor and bring the bracing inside. Plumb up the two corners. Run a string along the top of the wall, spaced out 1-1/2" from the corners. Using a scrap piece of 2x between the string and the top of the wall, add braces from the concrete floor to the upper part of the wall to plumb the wall.
KnurledNut
Well-known member
Plumb and brace the free standing corner dead on.
You could tapcon this brace to the side of the slab.
I would then tack a couple 16s and run a string as tight as possible on the inside of the top plate and use some small scrap 2x blocks to shim it out. This will let you use another 2x block to gauge with.
That soil doesnt look too promising, so i would tapcon 2x blocks (2' or so long) to the slab about every 8 ft and run my braces to that, screwed or nailed to the studs as i straighten. If there are any control joints in the slab, that is a good place to screw the blocks down. Hide the screws in the joint. Fasten brace to floor block first and then pull wall to gauge block and set top of brace.
This method is being used in the pictures below. This guy is also using the braces as spring jacks to push or pull the wall, but thats a more advanced technique that will just confuse you right now.
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Jlbc212
Well-known member
I wouldn't use tapcons, but sleeve anchors instead. Get a rotary hammer drill to drill the holes into the concrete floor. I would 3/8" sleeve anchors.
After the garage is built cut the anchors flush to the top of the floor.
Jlbc212
Well-known member
How are you building this without $$$ ??? Sell some of the lumber, get the tools and equipment you need to salvage what's left.
KnurledNut
Well-known member
Unnecessary overkill.
Two tappers per brace block are more than sufficient and removable. Done it a million times.
Heck, in a pinch, a 1/4 hole and two 16d coated sinkers crammed in it will hold about the same. Do i recommend this? No, but maybe.
