kaymccampbell
Well-known member
Rearranged some stuff. Flung a few things. Moved a customer sander from the metalshop to the woodshop to prep for bringing the dead Journey inside.
Do your self a favor (if it's not been done yet) pull the caliper slide pins and remove the boots ,clean all the grease off, regrease with silicone brake grease, reinstall boots and slide pins back in to the bracket make sure the they slide in and out smoothly.I'm chalking this ongoing brake job saga as a learning experience. While I'm currently into the project for more than the shop quoted ($470) I'm still ahead (or that's what I'm trying to tell myself) because a good chunk of the cost is tools...
Here's where we are at:
$230.80 in parts
$316.51 in tools (brake fluid included in this total because it comes with the Power Bleeder)
Like I said, I'm telling myself this is still a learning experience and I'll be prepared and quicker the next time I have to do brakes...
Passenger's Side:
The caliper carrier has been removed, soaked in brake clean, flaking rust and the likes cleaned off, and reinstalled finger tight;
On the same side, I've installed the new rotor, slightly mucking up the new keeper screw in the process because the rotor slipped as I was tightening it. It's not right tight in there so I'm just going to not muck with it any further in the hopes that I may be able to remove it at a later time if need be.
I'm waiting on the caliper rewind kit (Monday delivery) and Motive Power Bleeder (Wednesday - Friday delivery window) before I rewind the caliper and reinstall everything, hopefully without discovering the caliper is buggered. As I mentioned in my last post, the PS caliper rotates with reasonable torque (I can turn it with pliers or the ratchet on the cube), I just can't get enough inward force to push it in as I twist. I only bled a little fluid off and stopped before I went too far down that path, without a reasonable way to refill and bleed the system properly.
Driver's Side:
Figuring that I'm stalled on the PS, I moved over to the DS and, after some reading I figured out that you can get the rotor out without removing the carrier - after I removed one of the carrier bolts, that is... The second carrier bolt has very little clearance between the head of the bolt and the stupid bracket welded to the control arm (I think it holds a sensor wire?).
So I'm buying another set of low profile triple squares, because it's not that much more to buy the full set on sale, as it is to buy a single one. If I had 240 at the garage here, I'd grind that damn bracket off, and booger it on three inches forward, but alas I'm a novice welder at best and I don't have 240 access at this garage, which is probably for the best. Sockets arrive Tuesday...
Let the saga continue.
With the troubles you having with stuck fasteners . calipers and the like I would bet the shop estimate would go up since the tech would have to spend more time dealing with these issues as well. wouldn't expect a tech to work extra for free ( FYI - I don't work on cars for a living )I'm chalking this ongoing brake job saga as a learning experience. While I'm currently into the project for more than the shop quoted ($470) I'm still ahead (or that's what I'm trying to tell myself) because a good chunk of the cost is tools...
Here's where we are at:
$230.80 in parts
$316.51 in tools (brake fluid included in this total because it comes with the Power Bleeder)
Like I said, I'm telling myself this is still a learning experience and I'll be prepared and quicker the next time I have to do brakes...
Passenger's Side:
The caliper carrier has been removed, soaked in brake clean, flaking rust and the likes cleaned off, and reinstalled finger tight;
On the same side, I've installed the new rotor, slightly mucking up the new keeper screw in the process because the rotor slipped as I was tightening it. It's not right tight in there so I'm just going to not muck with it any further in the hopes that I may be able to remove it at a later time if need be.
I'm waiting on the caliper rewind kit (Monday delivery) and Motive Power Bleeder (Wednesday - Friday delivery window) before I rewind the caliper and reinstall everything, hopefully without discovering the caliper is buggered. As I mentioned in my last post, the PS caliper rotates with reasonable torque (I can turn it with pliers or the ratchet on the cube), I just can't get enough inward force to push it in as I twist. I only bled a little fluid off and stopped before I went too far down that path, without a reasonable way to refill and bleed the system properly.
Driver's Side:
Figuring that I'm stalled on the PS, I moved over to the DS and, after some reading I figured out that you can get the rotor out without removing the carrier - after I removed one of the carrier bolts, that is... The second carrier bolt has very little clearance between the head of the bolt and the stupid bracket welded to the control arm (I think it holds a sensor wire?).
So I'm buying another set of low profile triple squares, because it's not that much more to buy the full set on sale, as it is to buy a single one. If I had 240 at the garage here, I'd grind that damn bracket off, and booger it on three inches forward, but alas I'm a novice welder at best and I don't have 240 access at this garage, which is probably for the best. Sockets arrive Tuesday...
Let the saga continue.
Yes. I replaced the PS caliper slide pins with fresh grease yesterday; They were a cheap replacement to do while I had everything apart, so I just ordered them with the rest of the brake parts. The old ones really weren't bad, but I did it no less because I had the parts. The DS will be done as well, once I get the caliper carrier off.Do your self a favor (if it's not been done yet) pull the caliper slide pins and remove the boots ,clean all the grease off, regrease with silicone brake grease, reinstall boots and slide pins back in to the bracket make sure the they slide in and out smoothly.
I can't confirm whether the calipers are stuck yet or if I just can't get enough pressure on them by hand (I really hope they're not stuck because they are $200+/pc when I last quickly looked. I'll have to shop around some.With the troubles you having with stuck fasteners . calipers and the like I would bet the shop estimate would go up since the tech would have to spend more time dealing with these issues as well. wouldn't expect a tech to work extra for free ( FYI - I don't work on cars for a living )
I'm curious as to what all you're controlling. I see a PH monitor in there. Is it for CO2? My heater, filter and U/V clarifier run 24/7. Both of my lights are LED, the Fluval Plant 3.0 has a bluetooth app and the Current USA Serene System has a timer with an infrared remote. The CO2 solenoid and CO2 reactors are each on one of my old programmable appliance timers leftover from when I ran everything on five of them. I don't use a controller for the CO2, I just estimate the bubble count by studying the livestock for signs of O2 deprivation and just set it high enough to keep algae at bay and the plants happy and pearling.
Have you noticed your hair turning gray, thinning or perhaps falling out? Welcome to old age. Don't worry, once you retire you won't know what day it is much less were you left your tools.Looked for my cheepo 4 C cell Costco flashlight again. I have NO idea where it went. Probably in the same spot as my O-ring pick set. I used it last year and can't remember where...
Tommy
Oh good. I don't have to worry about any of that. I'll never be able to retire...Don't worry, once you retire you won't know what day it is much less were you left your tools.
I'm curious as to what all you're controlling. I see a PH monitor in there. Is it for CO2? My heater, filter and U/V clarifier run 24/7. Both of my lights are LED, the Fluval Plant 3.0 has a bluetooth app and the Current USA Serene System has a timer with an infrared remote. The CO2 solenoid and CO2 reactors are each on one of my old programmable appliance timers leftover from when I ran everything on five of them. I don't use a controller for the CO2, I just estimate the bubble count by studying the livestock for signs of O2 deprivation and just set it high enough to keep algae at bay and the plants happy and pearling.
Tommy
Yes. I made my own controller.Are you making and programming your own controller?
“Man” if I had a dollar for every time I put something somewhere and said I would remember that it is there I would have retired years ago.Looked for my cheepo 4 C cell Costco flashlight again. I have NO idea where it went. Probably in the same spot as my O-ring pick set. I used it last year and can't remember where...
Tommy
Thumbs up on the Motive Power bleeder. I bought and used one on a complete brake line replacement job last winter, much better than "pump, hold etc".No photos (again) but after getting a path back to the garage with the snow blower, I dove into the brake job on the SportWagen and was met by a case of Murphy's Law. I started on the passenger's side and after some coaxing (with a floor jack to give me the force necessary to turn the bolts out) I got the caliper carrier off the passenger's side. Very little rust on this vehicle despite being nearly 7 years old, but the caliper carrier is flaky and pitted. After cleaning up the caliper carrier, installing new slide pins and guide boots, I should have quit for the day because I was still winning...
What came next:
1) I destroyed the plastic coating on my 3lb HF deadblow (it was previously cracked) trying to coax the old rotor off. It did eventually break loose... And that's where I REALLY should have quit for the day.
2) Somewhat marred up the screw that holds on the new rotor. The rotor turned on me and the torx bit slipped.
3) I can't for the life of me get the piston to retract! It will turn with some coaxing, but it WILL NOT retract. I cracked the bleed screw and let of some (not a lot) of pressure (maybe this is my issue?) But I can't seem to get enough in-force and simultaneously turn the piston clockwise. I've since ordered the proper toolset, and I'm REALLY hoping I don't need to replace the caliper completely.
I'll give the other side a go tomorrow seeing as the car's not going anywhere soon. I'll try and take some pictures as I go, but I'm likely on hold on the passenger's side until I get the caliper piston tool set.
I'm curious about Motive Power Bleeder setups? Are they worth the price? Seem to be between $80-$100 online, but I'm hesitant to go that route if I can do it for less? Are there any other options out there for a better value?
B.
I cut my hair, in my garage. after being in lock down i learned to cut my own hair. Now i save money and then just vacuumed up the mess.
I have to admit, my wife straightened the back up on my neck lol but other then that! yeah i dislike going to the barber. and it was always disappointing when i paid the $30 and walk out looking worse then what i could have done it myselfI've been doing the same thing since 2014.
My barber was getting harder and harder to get in to see as he didn't make appointments.
When I did get in, it would be 1 to 2 hours for a 10 minute cut.
$15
The places that did make appointments were $30 to $40.
$30 for a Wahl clipper from WallyWorld 7 years ago. Still going strong!
I've never had any issues with mixing DOT4 fluids from different manufacturers.I only bled a little bit of fluid off to see if it made any difference, and decided to stop until I get fluid to refill the system. I'll bleed the rears completely when the power bleeder shows up and see where I'm at then. The power bleeder (which ironically is now out of stock - seems I got one of the last ones) comes with 1L of (sic) Typ 200 Dot 4 fluid, but what I am reading online is that the car takes 1.2L... akin to eight hotdogs per pack but only six buns.Any issues mixing brands if they are both dot 4 fluids?
I retired 5 years ago. I worried when I started losing track of what day it was. Until I realized it didn't matter - when you are retired, every day is Saturday!Have you noticed your hair turning gray, thinning or perhaps falling out? Welcome to old age. Don't worry, once you retire you won't know what day it is much less were you left your tools.
Shave it! You'll save approx. $200 on hair care products yearly. Ask me how I no....I cut my hair, in my garage. after being in lock down i learned to cut my own hair. Now i save money and then just vacuumed up the mess.
