was wondering if anybody had any good hints as to what to finish the inside walls with. seems sheetrock might get a little dirty,dont know. this is my first shop i'am building want to make sure i do it right the first time. thanks
what is the best material to put on walls
- Thread starter yard_dawg
- Start date
IDASHO
Well-known member
Right now my cost on 7/16 OSB is cheaper than sheetrock...
So thats what Im doing! Pretty much a no-brainer there
So thats what Im doing! Pretty much a no-brainer there
davidcalhoun
Well-known member
DuraPlate. It has replaced FRP in a lot of truck beds
Plywood burns. Sheetrock is made from hydrated gypsum. When you heat it it resists heat by releasing the water bound up in the gypsum. It actually sweats out water and this prevents burning far more so than any of the treated plywoods or even cement board This chemical action also helps prevent the heat from penetrating and burning the wood structure behind it.
1320stang
Well-known member
I'm thinking the bottom 4' will be Hardi Panel if I ever get my shop built.
trainer
Well-known member
thats exactly what I did.gahi said:
I used Melamine paint. Basically a oil based, eggshell finish paint, designed for things like kitchen cabinets.
Seems to be holding up well, I've splashed water and dirt on it and it wipes off.
alpo
Member
I used OSB. Can't remember if it was 7/16 or 1/2 inch, though. Then painted it with some cheap white paint.
If money is no object, try this stuff:
http://magnesiacore.com/
can be machined at the joints and epoxied together. It will become seamless. It will not burn and its waterproof. costs about 3x drywall available 0.25 - 0.75"
http://magnesiacore.com/
can be machined at the joints and epoxied together. It will become seamless. It will not burn and its waterproof. costs about 3x drywall available 0.25 - 0.75"
PAToyota
Well-known member
boiler7904
Well-known member
PAToyota said:
We had a presentation at work about a similar locally-sourced product a couple of months ago. Seemed like a great material for garage walls until I heard the cost. I want to say it was about $125 for a 3 x 8 or 3 x 10 sheet... and that was at a discounted rate.
I haven't built it yet, but my plans for the new place are:
The guy putting in the slab will put in a 2 inch high curb all around the slab, except for the big door area.
The bottom 1 foot of the wall will be a strip of Polymax Board from these guys at www.teksupply.com. It is water proof and it will be culked at the bottom edge to the curb. (I dont plan to wash down anything, but slop happens.)
Next will come a 4 foot high row of white painted 3/8 plywood for strength and ease of fastening things to.
Then the top will be white, high strength, 1/4 inch peg board with the big holes. Again, for ease of fastening things.
The electric outlets will go at the seam between the plywood and the peg board.
The guy putting in the slab will put in a 2 inch high curb all around the slab, except for the big door area.
The bottom 1 foot of the wall will be a strip of Polymax Board from these guys at www.teksupply.com. It is water proof and it will be culked at the bottom edge to the curb. (I dont plan to wash down anything, but slop happens.)
Next will come a 4 foot high row of white painted 3/8 plywood for strength and ease of fastening things to.
Then the top will be white, high strength, 1/4 inch peg board with the big holes. Again, for ease of fastening things.
The electric outlets will go at the seam between the plywood and the peg board.
I am sold on the magnesiacore board. It cuts and installs like drywall and I can bondo the joints so I don't need a taper and can do it all myself. Looks much simpler and easier to do than all the others. Even at three times the price of buying drywall (which is cheapest material available for walls) if I don't have to pay a taper to refinish it will save me a lot of time and money.
Quiksilver
Well-known member
this stuff could be cool but I don't know about the fire ratings etc. would clean up easy, and they sell it at Lowes.
http://www.tuftexpanel.com/
http://www.tuftexpanel.com/
Quiksilver
Well-known member
I was actually referring to the polycarb material. Polycarbonate is the material that they make bulletproof glass out of, this is also what they use to make "featherweight" eye glass lenses out of. Should be really strong and very resistant to cracking. I am thinking about using it when I get around to building a garage.
It is very strong ans easy to work with but it has some down sides. It is subject to hydrocarbon crazing and inbrittlement. Oil and solvents attack it easily and cause it to discolor and get brittle. It is harder than most plastics to get burning with a higher than normal melting point but is nasty when it does get going. Good for glazing in high risk locations and doors where there is a chance of falling into the glass. Poor where oil or solvents or solvent vapors in high concentrations will get to it.
Drywall is best for fire reasons and plywood or OSB behind that is really nice. And we put FRP over drywall in commercial space all the time. If you don't want to spend a fortune, put flat blocking (with scrap) in places you plan to hang or screw into and drywall over that. If it's an unattached garage or shop, use 1/2" drywall. 5/8"(that) is rated type x fire (1hr.) and is used on walls that seperate living areas from garages.
Sorry but drywall has nothing over magnesiacore. I got samples and this is great stuff.
Look at their website www.magnesiacore.com and get some samples for yourself. You won't want drywall after you see this and its a do it yourselfers dream wallboard that does not require hiring a taper to refinish. Probably cheaper in the long run than drywall factoring in cost of tapers, and you can also leave it natural since it looks nice.
Look at their website www.magnesiacore.com and get some samples for yourself. You won't want drywall after you see this and its a do it yourselfers dream wallboard that does not require hiring a taper to refinish. Probably cheaper in the long run than drywall factoring in cost of tapers, and you can also leave it natural since it looks nice.
I put plywood on my walls, yes it will burn but you would have to hold a torch to it. If I need to hang something, drive a nail.
drywall look good, it doesnt burn, but if you lean a shovel against it, you have a hole. if you bump the wall. you have a hole. need to hang something, cant drive no nail. if it gets wet, its ruin and mold problem.
plywood is a lot cheaper than drywall. besides its a garage, dirt grease, cutting welding. its made to look manly.
drywall you can add some nice flowerly borders maybe a pint tint high light.
drywall look good, it doesnt burn, but if you lean a shovel against it, you have a hole. if you bump the wall. you have a hole. need to hang something, cant drive no nail. if it gets wet, its ruin and mold problem.
plywood is a lot cheaper than drywall. besides its a garage, dirt grease, cutting welding. its made to look manly.
drywall you can add some nice flowerly borders maybe a pint tint high light.
Magnesiacore is cheaper than plywood plus you can joint it to keep the dust and smells in the garage. Leave your blow torch on it and it wont burn. Wipe off the soot or sand off a dirty marred surface to get a new wall without reboarding. Sorry but you can't beat this stuff for a garage wall. Salt resistant to boot so the salt brought in on car tires in winter wont eat away at your garage walls.
GT350Mike
Well-known member
dixie said:
How much is Magnesiacore?
It's less than about twice as much as drywall to buy... but is there anything out there that's cheaper than drywall?
When you consider you can joint it with bondo without tapping then the time, cost, mess, clean-up and paiting that drywall must have, makes this a cheaper product for do it yourself use.
When you eliminate hiring extra trades to refinish or even paint it can save a bundle on paid labour.
It looks good as a finish. It's got an interesting grass weave like effect under the surface on the smooth side. It can go up without any coating. I'll leave it unfinished and maybe stain it for interesting effects as it says on the website.
When you consider you can joint it with bondo without tapping then the time, cost, mess, clean-up and paiting that drywall must have, makes this a cheaper product for do it yourself use.
When you eliminate hiring extra trades to refinish or even paint it can save a bundle on paid labour.
It looks good as a finish. It's got an interesting grass weave like effect under the surface on the smooth side. It can go up without any coating. I'll leave it unfinished and maybe stain it for interesting effects as it says on the website.
BlackLead
Well-known member
dixie said:
I note on the magnesiacore website that they are an on-line wholesaler. Does this mean they won't sell directly to the general public? And if they do, how does the cost of shipping factor in? Is the magnesiacore heavier or lighter than drywall? And with the size limited to 4'x8', would it still be more cost-effective than drywall, which is available in 4'x12' sheets? Are you comparing cost on a per-square-foot basis, or per sheet? My garage interior is currently unfinished, and I'm also looking into the various options available. Thanks for any input.
V-10 Killer
Well-known member
dixie said:
The last I heard, drywall was about $0.20/sq.ft. and finishing was another $0.20/sq.ft.
So if you spend nearly twice as much for the stuff to do it yourself, and then pay to ship it, you're probably right at what it would cost to have drywall professionally installed.
My garage walls currently have OSB (wood flake board) from 20 years ago when I put it up because I wanted something stronger than drywall that I could bang around. I taped the joints with a wood filler, but it now looks like ****. I plan to leave everything the way it is and screw magnesiacore over it. I will use 2" screws to go throught the 5/8" OSB and into the wood studs behind it. I am not sure if I should go with 1/2", 3/8" or 1/4" yet. I was told that if I go 1/4" I need full contact and a panel adhesive should be used before screwing magnesiacore. I should leave a 1/8" gap between sheets to fill with the bondo and then shave off the bondo before it fully sets (like they show on the video). I then leave it natural (maybe apply a clear coat sealer like 2% silicone I used on my interlock stone. Sounds easy enough to do everything myself. I will let everyone know how I make out.
This is the way it looks now:
This is the way it looks now:
V-10 Killer said:
Drywall will get beat up pretty bad in a few months. I used OSB which was much stronger but still looks lame as a wall finish. After painting it you see all the wood flakes on the wall which makes it look cheap.
Magnesiacore is hard like concrete so it will withstand the abuse of a garage better than anything I have seen.
I can leave it natural without painting which also saves a few bucks. But again the biggest savings in my free labour (I don't charge myself much). If I can bondo the joints, that easy enough.
I got my material and did some trials with the nail gun and it works great. Nothing to see but a small dint where the nail goes in just like with wood paneling. Don't need to fill them since they blend in with the patern and are clean and flush.
I used 1-1/4" finishing nails on 1/4" magnesiacore over my old OSB and it was solid as rock. I don't need any panel adhesive with using the nail gun.
Also the **** joints look fine. I've decided not to do a fill on the joints since it looks fine butted together. Even the outside corner looks good with just the edge of the board showing. I can make square cuts with my table saw and line them up flush at the outside corners. I will caulk the inside corners for show
I will start the project sometime durring the comming week since I may not get around to it this weekend and will post pictures for before and after shots. Hopefully by next weekend I should have enough time for this.
I used 1-1/4" finishing nails on 1/4" magnesiacore over my old OSB and it was solid as rock. I don't need any panel adhesive with using the nail gun.
Also the **** joints look fine. I've decided not to do a fill on the joints since it looks fine butted together. Even the outside corner looks good with just the edge of the board showing. I can make square cuts with my table saw and line them up flush at the outside corners. I will caulk the inside corners for show
I will start the project sometime durring the comming week since I may not get around to it this weekend and will post pictures for before and after shots. Hopefully by next weekend I should have enough time for this.
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V-10 Killer
Well-known member
Are you going to do the ceiling with this stuff too?
I am going to do the whole garage including the ceiling and the back of the garage doors since they are banged too up after 20 years.
Super easy to work with. Cuts with a utility knife. Score and snap without making dust. Hold it up to the wall or ceiling and nail gun shot with finishing nails makes solid connections. I was really surprised how well it nails on with finishing nails with 1/4" thick material.
The 18 gage finishing nails have tiny heads. Can't see the nail heads unless you go right up and they look like the patern on the board. There's no need to fill them.
The joints can be left without filling. They go nice and tight between sheets. The inside corners is where I am making the cut edges meet and I would caulk those to avoid filling.
Super easy to work with. Cuts with a utility knife. Score and snap without making dust. Hold it up to the wall or ceiling and nail gun shot with finishing nails makes solid connections. I was really surprised how well it nails on with finishing nails with 1/4" thick material.
The 18 gage finishing nails have tiny heads. Can't see the nail heads unless you go right up and they look like the patern on the board. There's no need to fill them.
The joints can be left without filling. They go nice and tight between sheets. The inside corners is where I am making the cut edges meet and I would caulk those to avoid filling.
Itzkwik
Well-known member
Post some pics of the new stuff.
Ok... This is just my corner test area. I only had time to test the material out with my nail gun. But this is the same spot from the prior "before" picture I posted.
What do you think? Can't notice the nail gun holes at all since it blends in with the patern in the magnesiacore. It should work just as well with finishng nails and a hammer.
I'll try to do more over next weekend when I have more time. Busy week at work next week. I start lots of projects around the house and never get to have enough time to finish them in one shot. Bear with me and I'll do more soon.
What do you think? Can't notice the nail gun holes at all since it blends in with the patern in the magnesiacore. It should work just as well with finishng nails and a hammer.
I'll try to do more over next weekend when I have more time. Busy week at work next week. I start lots of projects around the house and never get to have enough time to finish them in one shot. Bear with me and I'll do more soon.
